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What's the deal with running cat6 ethernet through my walls? I don't see this rated as CL2 or anything. I generally thought it was safe? This brand in particular http://www.monoprice.com/products/product.asp?c_id=102&cp_id=10232&cs_id=1023213&p_id=9793&seq=1&format=2#description quote:High quality Category 6 (CAT6) patch cables are the solution to your internetworking needs. With a blazing speed of up to 550MHz you can connect to your LAN/WAN segments and networking gear at maximum speed. Also, with its superior connector you get a cable that is built for speed and endurance. Monoprice Cat5e and Cat6 cables are made of 24 AWG pure bare copper wire, as opposed to copper clad aluminum (CCA) wire, and are therefore fully compliant with UL Code 444 and National Electrical Code TIA-568-C.2 fire and safety standards, which require pure bare copper wire in Cat5e and Cat6 communications cables.
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Jul 17, 2013 21:59
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FogHelmut posted:What's the deal with running cat6 ethernet through my walls? I don't see this rated as CL2 or anything. I generally thought it was safe? If you end up running anything in your attic pretty sure to code you should be running plenum cable (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Plenum_cable) monoprice sells it in 1000' boxes - http://www.monoprice.com/products/subdepartment.asp?c_id=102&cp_id=10234#1023403
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Jul 17, 2013 22:09
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It has a rating of CMG.quote:— CMP (PLENUM):
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Jul 17, 2013 22:12
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I had a bunch of CMX cable because I had to do a run outside my house that I also used in my attic, was I not supposed to do that? Specifically this cable.
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Jul 17, 2013 22:26
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Nebulis01 posted:If you end up running anything in your attic pretty sure to code you should be running plenum cable (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Plenum_cable) Most attics do not function as return or supply air spaces and riser is adequate in that case.
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Jul 17, 2013 22:40
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HiggsBoson81 posted:I had a bunch of CMX cable because I had to do a run outside my house that I also used in my attic, was I not supposed to do that? Specifically this cable. Notice "dwellings" in CMX. You can run ANY cable in a single-family dwelling as long as it's comms listed. The other ratings are for multifamily and commercial applications. From that table, all cables are good for the situation listed, plus all the ones below. You can use plenum-rated cable absolutely anywhere. CMG is good for what's listed, plus everything listed under CMX.
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Jul 17, 2013 22:57
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I think I would be safe with at least riser rated. I don't know what a "dwelling" is. I have a first floor condo, the construction is probably more like a commercial building. There's about a 2ft space between floors that I'm going through. edit - Found some reasonable plenum rated Cat6. But I cannot find anything higher rated than CL2 for RG6/cable tv cable. It's all 1000ft spools. I just need 50ft. Can I just run the non-plenum through a conduit? FogHelmut fucked around with this message at 00:20 on Jul 18, 2013 |
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Jul 17, 2013 23:16
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Nebulis01 posted:If you end up running anything in your attic pretty sure to code you should be running plenum cable (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Plenum_cable) Only if your attic is being used as a plenum. I've yet to see a residential setup where this is the case. You need to understand that plenum is run above commercial drop ceilings because that space is typically used as the return duct (plenum) for forced air heat and AC. It's got better smoke spread characteristics (lower) which is required so that in case of a fire it won't spread smoke through the HVAC system as much before a duct detector trips and shuts the system down.
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Jul 18, 2013 02:38
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FogHelmut posted:Can I just run the non-plenum through a conduit? If it's metallic, yes.
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Jul 18, 2013 03:22
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grover posted:Depends on what the actual brand is. If it's a Cooper combo switch it should have a break-off tab and is even easier; black on black, white to silver and red to copper, and no jumpers necessary. If it doesn't have a tab, yeah, you need to pigtail it. Would make more sense if they all had tabs; pretty just exactly what they're made for. Thanks a lot - this worked great. I hope its OK that I used stranded wire. The job came out very clean and I wrapped the whole outlet in electrical tape.
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Jul 18, 2013 05:07
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I need to get a UPS working in another room, only problem is the room doesn't have the proper outlet. Is there anything wrong with putting a L5-30R outlet on a 20A circuit? Breaker is still a 20A breaker and the UPS wouldnt be drawing more than 20A. Is it breaking code by doing this?
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Jul 20, 2013 00:39
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dietcokefiend posted:I need to get a UPS working in another room, only problem is the room doesn't have the proper outlet. Is there anything wrong with putting a L5-30R outlet on a 20A circuit? Breaker is still a 20A breaker and the UPS wouldnt be drawing more than 20A. Is it breaking code by doing this? Yes because the next person that comes along doesn't know that that 30A outlet is being served by 20A wiring.
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Jul 20, 2013 01:41
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dietcokefiend posted:I need to get a UPS working in another room, only problem is the room doesn't have the proper outlet. Is there anything wrong with putting a L5-30R outlet on a 20A circuit? Breaker is still a 20A breaker and the UPS wouldnt be drawing more than 20A. Is it breaking code by doing this?
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Jul 20, 2013 13:26
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I'm installing a light in my ceiling, and above my ceiling there is like a truss similar to this: The drywall isn't directly screwed into that. There are metal strips running perpendicular to the truss which the drywall is attached. The loving truss and metal strip cross at dead center in my ceiling. So I have to move the hole for the light a whole length, 4" or so, diagonally. This is probably inconsequential, but I'm anal about symmetry. Ugh.
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Jul 20, 2013 15:48
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FogHelmut posted:I'm installing a light in my ceiling, and above my ceiling there is like a truss similar to this: grover fucked around with this message at 19:44 on Jul 20, 2013 |
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Jul 20, 2013 19:40
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grover posted:Is the wire for the light the only wire in the box? Does the style of light allow room inside the light fixture for wiring? If so, you may be able to get away with a pancake box no deeper than your drywall, and still put it right where you want to. Shim it up and secure it appropriate to the size/weight fixture you're planning to use. I just moved it over a couple of inches so it would fit with the safe-t-brace. It's probably not noticeable. I may end up with a fan there when my fiance gets back and tells me the $7 light fixture I picked is ugly. I ran 14/3 just in case of this scenario.
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Jul 20, 2013 21:21
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Motronic posted:Only if your attic is being used as a plenum. I've yet to see a residential setup where this is the case. Guy Axlerod, most places also allow for running non-plenum cable through pan ducts if no other path is available, as long as the path is straight across.
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Jul 20, 2013 22:14
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Can someone give me a quick bit of advice.. My MIL is redoing her deck and the PO had a single GFI Outlet in an outdoor gangbox.. The only issue that I see is that there's no conduit leading to the house it's just romex(I believe, didn't really inspect it too much) Does the current NEC require conduit to the house or is it okay to run under the deck as it is (romex)? If there's a differnt type of outdoor sheilded wire any other ways I can tell.. the wire is 100% painted so I won't be able to read anything on it. Thanks
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Jul 21, 2013 00:15
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tater_salad posted:Can someone give me a quick bit of advice.. PO? If that's UF cable and not NM and it follows the code regarding stapling and other wire protection, it should be OK.
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Jul 21, 2013 03:20
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kid sinister posted:PO? Previous Owner. And I agree that it's a total no-go with Romex/NM as the NEC says absolutely not in a "wet or damp location" with "damp" being defined elsewhere in the code using an example of under a deck. Some people would let it through with UF...it's a gray area. I wouldn't have it at my own house. NMLT conduit is too cheap and easy to install to be worrying about cable abrasion.
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Jul 21, 2013 03:50
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I'm not exactly sure of where to post this but: I think I was just vastly overcharged for some electrical work by the company that is doing renovations in our living room and kitchen. Their rate was 74 dollars an hour, they were there for 2 hours. They ran about 30 feet of wire in the living room (no drywall was installed, just the studs) and put in a switch and 3 junction boxes for wiring up some lights. They also checked all of the outlets in the living room and kitchen. Our bill for the electric work was $1,052. I've wired a whole room at my father-in-laws' house for about 100 dollars, including the wire, 3 boxes and outlets, a light switch, and a cheap light fixture. I'm having trouble wrapping my head around what exactly they did that could merit such a high cost.
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Jul 21, 2013 03:55
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Mikemo Tyson posted:I'm not exactly sure of where to post this but: Ask for a bill with line items. Ask how long it took specifically. I bet your detailed bill comes back a lot smaller, as the big line item is going to have to say that 6 guys were on site for those 2 hours at $74/hr.
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Jul 21, 2013 04:12
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Po is prev owner No staples, ill check the type if I can
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Jul 21, 2013 04:47
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UF is a lot like romex, only it's solid rubber jacket instead of a thin rubber sheath with paper filler like NM-B. Data on NM-B cable is printed on the jacked, but UF is stamped- if it's UF, you should be able to see it through the paint. If you can't tell, open the GFCI receptacle and look at the termination.Motronic posted:Previous Owner.
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Jul 21, 2013 11:00
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grover posted:UF is a lot like romex, only it's solid rubber jacket instead of a thin rubber sheath with paper filler like NM-B. Data on NM-B cable is printed on the jacked, but UF is stamped- if it's UF, you should be able to see it through the paint. If you can't tell, open the GFCI receptacle and look at the termination. The gray area isn't about the moisture resistance, it's about lack of abrasion resistance in a cable who's abrasion resistance is supposed to be supplemented by 12" of soil or by being behind drywall or in a conduit. That's why it's a gray area. It depends on exactly where it is and how likely it would be to come in contact with something that will rub up against it. I can't make that call without seeing it. FYI I'm not just making assumptions here. I was code enforcement - fire marshal to be precise - for the better part of the last decade so this is 100% in my wheelhouse but of course codes aren't the same everywhere nor are interpretations of what may be the exact same code. I'm just calling it the way _I_ would have responded to someone in my jurisdiction asking the same question.
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Jul 21, 2013 15:37
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It will be under a deck so no abrasion. It's a shortw run I'll have her grab some conduit, better safe than sorry
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Jul 21, 2013 15:59
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Motronic posted:The gray area isn't about the moisture resistance, it's about lack of abrasion resistance in a cable who's abrasion resistance is supposed to be supplemented by 12" of soil or by being behind drywall or in a conduit. grover fucked around with this message at 23:53 on Jul 21, 2013 |
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Jul 21, 2013 23:49
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grover posted:What abrasion? NEC doesn't make mention of that; may be a local thing, as I've never heard anyone place those sort of restrictions on UF. In fact, 2011 NEC 340.10(3) & 340.10(4) explicitly say UF should be treated as waterproof NM. And it's not supposed to be used inside other raceway; no restrictions I'm aware of, but the jacket just has too much friction to be practical for all but the shortest conduit runs. But it shouldn't be treated as poor-man's AC/MC, or really be used anywhere at all where you could whack into it. Under decks: probably OK. Running up the inside of your arbor to the sweet bug light? Probably not OK. Get some conduit. Local interpretations are usually based on who in the local area recently burned a house down being stupid while narrowly reading the letter of the code.
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Jul 21, 2013 23:53
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babyeatingpsychopath posted:But it shouldn't be treated as poor-man's AC/MC, or really be used anywhere at all where you could whack into it. Under decks: probably OK. Running up the inside of your arbor to the sweet bug light? Probably not OK. Get some conduit. I absolute agree with everything in this post. My caution on the under the deck usage is simply because I don't know what it looks like. I've seen many decks that are high enough to be used as storage but low enough to end up having mowers and crap get jammed far enough in to touch the top. If there's any chance of it being used as a storage area of for any usage where something could end up under there and touch the cable it puts it in the territory of "this needs to be AC/MC AND it needs to be moisture resistant". It's cheap and it's common sense. And, yes, I've seen it burn down a deck and melt the siding off the back of a house. Also, if your experience doesn't include seeing things after the fact (like you only work new construction or reno jobs) you would be horrified at what people do and how they use spaces after the fact (especially in rental properties). Sure, it's not everyone. It's not even most people. But the code and it's interpretation is meant as a hedge against social darwinism for these type of people. Motronic fucked around with this message at 00:23 on Jul 22, 2013 |
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Jul 22, 2013 00:18
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Help! I suppose this isn't strictly wiring related but I hosed up and there are wires attached.  Basically I was trying to change the bulb and it would turn but not pop out, so I twisted it a bit harder hoping it was just a bit jammed and it broke in my hand. I need to know how to get that remaining bit of bulb out of the fixture (hopefully without having to replace the part it plugs into). I am a total DIY novice so if anyone replies (thanks in advance) use explanations fit for a child or someone stupid enough to snap a bulb in their hand.
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Jul 25, 2013 19:21
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A Furious Foetus posted:
Potato. Cut potato in half. Take half of potato and jam it down onto the stump of the bulb. Turn potato to extract bulb. Make sure power is off. Or you could use a pair of needle-noses. Spread them apart to bite into the inside diameter of the bulb base, and turn. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dKP5FzYN2Js
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Jul 25, 2013 19:48
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Motronic posted:Also, if your experience doesn't include seeing things after the fact (like you only work new construction or reno jobs) you would be horrified at what people do and how they use spaces after the fact (especially in rental properties). Sure, it's not everyone. It's not even most people. But the code and it's interpretation is meant as a hedge against social darwinism for these type of people. On this subject: my uncle's house has some UF cable running outside that's not covered by a conduit. (It's a short distance behind a bush, in their defense.) Is there a way to give this code-compliant protection without having to undo the circuitry, pull the wires from the wall & slide it into a conduit? I guess I'm wondering if there are any exterior-grade surface raceway options available. My uncle's suggestion was to buy some flexible conduit, cut a slit in the back, slide it over the cable, wrap the whole thing in electrical tape to "re-seal it", widen the holes where the cable enters the house, slip in the conduit, mount the conduit to the wall & silicone caulk.
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Jul 25, 2013 20:17
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Phanatic posted:Potato. Cut potato in half. Take half of potato and jam it down onto the stump of the bulb. Turn potato to extract bulb. Thanks for the reply! Unfortunately there would be nowhere to put the pliers and nothing for the spud to grip onto, the prongs of the bulb are attached to the glass part with the female (?) part of the connection on the part which is stuck inside the fixture.
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Jul 25, 2013 21:05
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A Furious Foetus posted:Thanks for the reply! Turn the power off and use channel-locks on the bulb section while holding the other half in your hand.
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Jul 25, 2013 21:13
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A Furious Foetus posted:Thanks for the reply! At this point, you're going to have to be quite careful and chip the bulb's remaining ceramic away with a screwdriver or something. Hopefully, that loosens the pins up enough so you can rotate them away and out of the keyways. I've never broken a halogen/HID like that before. Was the lamp hot when you tried to remove it? Has it been in there a while? When you put the new one in, try putting NoAlOx/anti-oxidation compound on the pins. Electric grease also works.
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Jul 25, 2013 22:56
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babyeatingpsychopath posted:Electric grease also works. You mean "dielectric grease"?
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Jul 25, 2013 23:08
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kid sinister posted:You mean "dielectric grease"? This stuff. I got a big can of it when I was in the Navy. It doesn't say "dielectric" on it anywhere. I've also seen electrical contact grease at auto parts stores. Searching Google, some people call both of those dielectric grease, but dielectric grease is not designed to be put on the contacts, where electric grease is. Dielectric grease is for waterproofing/lubrication in and around connectors; electric grease is for electrical contacts specifically.
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Jul 26, 2013 01:14
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babyeatingpsychopath posted:This stuff. I got a big can of it when I was in the Navy. It doesn't say "dielectric" on it anywhere. I've also seen electrical contact grease at auto parts stores. Searching Google, some people call both of those dielectric grease, but dielectric grease is not designed to be put on the contacts, where electric grease is. Dielectric grease is for waterproofing/lubrication in and around connectors; electric grease is for electrical contacts specifically. That stuff has the same electrical properties but it's a better lubricant than silicone based dielectric grease, which is why it's typically used on switches and the like. Just like silicone dielectric grease, it is not marketed or supposed to be a conductor. In fact, if it were it would be terrible for the way it's typically used.
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Jul 26, 2013 01:25
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babyeatingpsychopath posted:At this point, you're going to have to be quite careful and chip the bulb's remaining ceramic away with a screwdriver or something. Hopefully, that loosens the pins up enough so you can rotate them away and out of the keyways. Thanks for the info! It's been in there for at least a year, I tried changing it a couple of weeks ago to no avail but my living room is super dark with that bulb out so I think my frustration got the better of me (the bulb was cold). I've informed my landlord about it and they're sending someone to sort it next week, I'd be too nervous about ruining the wiring or something if I tried breaking it out of there. If you want a follow-up of how the guy fixes it I'll post it just in case it ever happens to you if you like (assuming I'm home when they come round). So yeah, thanks again but I think I'll leave it to a professional.
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Jul 26, 2013 21:42
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Thanks for the replies about my ladder tray question. I got about half done, but haven't started working on the part that will go through the firewall. I have another question though. Hopefully this year we are going to get another video router at my station. My boss was going to pay an integrator to do all the wiring but now it is looking like I'll be doing the majority of the wiring on it. What would you guys suggest to label the wires going into it. The old system is a combination of old paper labels taped on, fabric wire labels, and nothing at all. I was looking at the labelers that print directly on the wire but those look to be out of the range I can get away with. I believe that we are looking at a 64x64 video router so having good labels is kind of important. Here's a couple pictures to give an idea of how bad it is right now, most of the wiring in these pics is gonna stay too.   Current video router (SD only)  The other video routers (HD only)
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Jul 27, 2013 00:20
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