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I hope that PDF and their data on the registers finally settles what the native ISOs are on Canon cameras. I always have to chuckle when people start babbling about the third stop steppings.
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Jul 17, 2013 15:29
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mAlfunkti0n posted:OF COURSE RIGHT AFTER I BUY MY CAMERA THEY DO THIS CANON I SWEAR I HATE YOU. It's the law of internet deals, before anything can go on sale a goon has to buy it at full price.
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Jul 17, 2013 16:04
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xzzy posted:It's the law of internet deals, before anything can go on sale a goon has to buy it at full price. Can a goon buy a 60d at the $599 price so a better deal will show up for me then?
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Jul 17, 2013 16:40
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outcast_p posted:Can a goon buy a 60d at the $599 price so a better deal will show up for me then?
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Jul 17, 2013 17:25
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HookShot posted:Seconding this motion! I bought mine for $650 a few months ago then it dropped a week later and it ended up being $600 does that help?
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Jul 17, 2013 17:35
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outcast_p posted:Can a goon buy a 60d at the $599 price so a better deal will show up for me then? I pulled the trigger on a 60D at that price from B&H two weeks ago.
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Jul 17, 2013 17:37
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That metal dude posted:That's it. I'm selling my 5D mk. II and sacrificing as many virgins/goats as I have to in order to buy the 5D3. This is just amazing. The first image looks pretty lovely to me. What's the difference between the first and second image? And what's with the noise in the first? CarrotFlowers fucked around with this message at 18:20 on Jul 17, 2013 |
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Jul 17, 2013 18:12
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The noise in the first image is weird - there's a white paper linked in the ML forums that has better AB comparisons, including that Batman picture which is pretty noisy in the thread but not at all noisy in the white paper. Basically check the white paper. The examples are pretty amazing.
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Jul 17, 2013 18:27
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The one thing I learned from that white paper is the fact that you can't push the shadows in a vanilla mk3 at ISO100  If you've ever played with a D800 or D600 you'll notice how much detail you can pull out of the shadows, it's really insane. I realize that the mk3 is a different camera and has strengths in different areas, but goddamn.
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Jul 17, 2013 19:43
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I figure if they could actually sample it in a crosshatch pattern to create RG BG pairs instead of double lines, the results would be way more impressive.
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Jul 17, 2013 20:03
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Refurb 7D from adoramacamera on eBay - $875 shipped Haven't been following the price on this one much but it seems good. Beats the $1200 Canon wants. http://www.ebay.com/itm/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=370843487352
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Jul 17, 2013 20:18
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1st AD posted:The one thing I learned from that white paper is the fact that you can't push the shadows in a vanilla mk3 at ISO100 Yeah the sensors in the Nikons trounce the Canon stuff when it comes to dynamic range. dxomark comparison I read the whitepaper. Right now he's only implemented some "get it working" post processing algorithms. If someone puts some work in the resulting images could look start looking a lot better than they do (but no extra dynamic range past the 4 they've got, just improvements to the images produced with the new method). It's exciting stuff! That Batman image that people are asking about -- it's to show you how much better the results from the new method are when compared to pushing ISO 100. The left half is ISO 100 pushed to +4 EV and the right side is the result of the new ISO 100/1600 hybrid thing. Dren fucked around with this message at 20:40 on Jul 17, 2013 |
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Jul 17, 2013 20:33
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Has anyone run into an issue where, when taking a photo using an external speedlite, the bottom 10% (a horizontal strip) of the frame is extremely underexposed, nearly black? This only happens to me when I'm using the flash and I'm not sure why. As soon as I power off the flash and take a shot that black strip at the bottom goes away. I just got some lighting gear today and I'm having a blast with it ... except for this issue. 5d3 with 100mm L Macro and YN560-II.
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Jul 17, 2013 22:04
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mclifford82 posted:Has anyone run into an issue where, when taking a photo using an external speedlite, the bottom 10% (a horizontal strip) of the frame is extremely underexposed, nearly black? two things Your lens could be too long (especially if you're using a lens hood) and it may be blocking the flash (if shooting straight ahead) Or you could be shooting faster than the sync speed of your camera
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Jul 17, 2013 22:06
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Your shutter speed is too high. Look up the max shutter sync speed for your camera and make sure you don't exceed it when using flash.
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Jul 17, 2013 22:07
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Is it off camera or not?
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Jul 17, 2013 22:08
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It's off camera, shutter speed is 1/200 and it doesn't matter where I point the camera. Rephrasing: It's always along the edge parallel to the bottom of the camera. So the right side of portrait orientation shots, bottom of landscape orientation shots. I've tried with 100mm and the 50mm f/1.8 with the same results. mclifford82 fucked around with this message at 22:47 on Jul 17, 2013 |
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Jul 17, 2013 22:44
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Yeah, you're almost certainly lagging behind the sync speed. Granted, the 5d3's sync speed is higher than 1/200, but that's for on camera flash and off camera flashes that can compensate. If you're using generic radio trigger sor something you're probably introducing just enough of a delay to miss sync. I know with my om-d, cowboy studio triggers, and yongnuo 560ii I can only get to 1/200, if I shoot at the rated sync speed I get the bar.
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Jul 17, 2013 22:49
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Okay thanks guys, I'll play around with it some more to see if I can sync it up properly. I am using YongNuo triggers, so that might be the culprit as you said. Is this something that is avoided when using, say, a Canon speedlite with pocketwizards? Edit: 1/160 is the sweet spot. Learn something new every day 
mclifford82 fucked around with this message at 23:01 on Jul 17, 2013 |
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Jul 17, 2013 22:53
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Pocketwizards would help. I have catcus v5 triggers that sync past 1/1250th so those are good too. As far as the flash goes you're interested in the t.1 time. http://strobist.blogspot.com/2010/06/rise-and-fall-of-machines-understanding.html Nicer flashes = lower t.1 times lower power settings on flashes = lower t.1 times
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Jul 17, 2013 22:57
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Dren posted:Pocketwizards would help. I have catcus v5 triggers that sync past 1/1250th so those are good too. Thanks for the link, interesting read. While we're on the subject of triggers, does anyone have any experience with the Cactus LV5 Laser trigger? Seems like it could have interesting applications. http://www.amazon.com/Cactus-Laser-Trigger-LV5/dp/B00CFA7ZVK/
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Jul 17, 2013 23:16
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I haven't ever heard of it but now I want one!
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Jul 17, 2013 23:54
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mclifford82 posted:Thanks for the link, interesting read. While we're on the subject of triggers, does anyone have any experience with the Cactus LV5 Laser trigger? Seems like it could have interesting applications. Have you looked at the Trigger Trap? It's pretty useful for a lot of stuff from what I hear, and cheaper than a laser trap like that.
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Jul 18, 2013 00:22
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Mr. Despair posted:Have you looked at the Trigger Trap? It's pretty useful for a lot of stuff from what I hear, and cheaper than a laser trap like that. I have looked and almost purchaed the TT so many times now, but each time I don't for one reason or another (usually because I don't want to mount my iPhone to my hot shoe all that much). You're right though, it looks badass, especially when you see them demo the smile detection. 1, 2, 3, 4, 5 smiles, shoot! I do need an intervalometer though and it has that built in ...
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Jul 18, 2013 00:25
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Mr. Despair posted:Yeah, you're almost certainly lagging behind the sync speed. Granted, the 5d3's sync speed is higher than 1/200, but that's for on camera flash and off camera flashes that can compensate. If you're using generic radio trigger sor something you're probably introducing just enough of a delay to miss sync. Sadly the mk3's max is 1/200 and usually ends up being real world of 1/160
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Jul 18, 2013 01:00
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Paragon8 posted:Sadly the mk3's max is 1/200 and usually ends up being real world of 1/160 Oh, I had googled it and saw something that said 1/250 so I assumed that was right without actually clicking through the link. Whoops.
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Jul 18, 2013 06:21
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outcast_p posted:Can a goon buy a 60d at the $599 price so a better deal will show up for me then? I bought a 60D at the beginning of July for $599 so I'm pretty sure they'll be free next week or something?
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Jul 18, 2013 06:32
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mclifford82 posted:It's off camera, shutter speed is 1/200 and it doesn't matter where I point the camera. Rephrasing: It's always along the edge parallel to the bottom of the camera. So the right side of portrait orientation shots, bottom of landscape orientation shots. Another thing to keep in mind is that if you're killing all ambient light with your exposure, you don't need to worry about shutter speed as long as its below your sync speed. The duration of the flash will sort of be your shutter speed.
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Jul 18, 2013 06:48
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So I've been using my 7D long enough now, and am just curious: does anyone else find that it completely over exposes outside? I swear every time I step outside I'm shooting at -1 EV just so everything isn't blown out. I have auto lighting optimizer turned off. Maybe I should try a different metering mode?
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Jul 18, 2013 09:24
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LiquidRain posted:So I've been using my 7D long enough now, and am just curious: does anyone else find that it completely over exposes outside? I swear every time I step outside I'm shooting at -1 EV just so everything isn't blown out. I have auto lighting optimizer turned off. Maybe I should try a different metering mode? Which metering mode are you using?
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Jul 18, 2013 12:15
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LiquidRain posted:So I've been using my 7D long enough now, and am just curious: does anyone else find that it completely over exposes outside? I swear every time I step outside I'm shooting at -1 EV just so everything isn't blown out. I have auto lighting optimizer turned off. Maybe I should try a different metering mode? I've found pretty much every TTL meter that I've allowed to make a decision in Av or Tv tends to blow the exposure one way or the other. I pretty much only use the spot meter in manual mode. I aim it a highlight area, hit the exposure lock, then aim it at a shadow area. I then adjust the exposure manually until the two hash marks are distributed appropriately on the exposure scale between -3 and +3. Just go try it out, it becomes second nature after a while. When you're getting this approach down it's super easy to just chimp it and get a feel for where on the exposure scale you need to put things. Once you get the technique down, you don't really need to even look at the preview anymore. You only need to do this once, so long as the lighting conditions remain more or less constant since you're in manual mode. I do lots of batch operations in LR, so I loathe any sort of shooting mode that'll make the exposure bounce around between consecutive photos shot under the same conditions.
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Jul 18, 2013 12:16
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Ah the price on the 6d went up $200. I'd buy the refurb 6d if they had it with the 24-105.
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Jul 18, 2013 19:32
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Aquila posted:Ah the price on the 6d went up $200. I'd buy the refurb 6d if they had it with the 24-105. Just keep waiting, all good prices come to those who wait.
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Jul 19, 2013 01:25
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Fart Car '97 posted:Which metering mode are you using? The default - evaluative. I know what the other modes do, I'm just not sure they fit the way I use my camera. (maybe I need to change the way I use my camera, or keep doing -1 EV.)
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Jul 19, 2013 04:47
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How can I change the file names of photos on the camera. _MG_#### bothers me. I'd be fine with IMG_####. I am the second owner of this 5D mk2 and it did not come with the cd software.
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Jul 19, 2013 07:36
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LiquidRain posted:The default - evaluative. I know what the other modes do, I'm just not sure they fit the way I use my camera. (maybe I need to change the way I use my camera, or keep doing -1 EV.) Try center-weighted for a while. Or learn to use exposure lock with partial/spot.
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Jul 19, 2013 08:38
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SeaborneClink posted:How can I change the file names of photos on the camera. _MG_#### bothers me. I'd be fine with IMG_####. I am the second owner of this 5D mk2 and it did not come with the cd software. Not on a 5D, as far as I can tell; only on a 1D it seems. Though it's not hard to have Lightroom do that for you upon import.
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Jul 19, 2013 12:58
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You can on the 5D3 fwiw. I feel like my files from the mkII were IMG_ though.
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Jul 19, 2013 13:58
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Does anyone have the list of how many points various things are worth for professional services? Getting a 404 on the Canon site.
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Jul 19, 2013 14:21
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SeaborneClink posted:How can I change the file names of photos on the camera. _MG_#### bothers me. I'd be fine with IMG_####. I am the second owner of this 5D mk2 and it did not come with the cd software. Check your colorspace. Online sources say _MG is for Adobe RGB while IMG is sRGB. Source
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Jul 19, 2013 16:20
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