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So, new problem. A little while I hit a pretty rough bump and the car died while moving, but I was able to start it back up a couple of seconds after it happened. In an idiot, so I brushed it off. About twenty minutes ago, the same thing happened, but now the battery seems like it's drained when I try to crank it. Should my first step be to get a new battery, or could it be something more annoying like a bad ground somewhere?
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Jul 9, 2013 18:20
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| # ? May 27, 2024 09:46 |
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Check the voltage on the battery. Pull the alternator and have it bench tested.
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Jul 9, 2013 18:23
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I might try the battery first, I'm currently in a Starbucks parking lot wearing a shirt and tie waiting for a jump. :/
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Jul 9, 2013 18:36
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Anyone have suggestions for how to reinstall the rubber trim around my windshield? I took it off when I painted the car and now it doesn't want to sit flat when I try to put it back. Also, my car passed state inspection last week so I'm finally 100% road legal. Considering the last sticker was from 2007 and it sat in various states of disassembly since then, I'm pretty pleased. 
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Jul 9, 2013 18:52
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goml23 posted:So, new problem. A little while I hit a pretty rough bump and the car died while moving, but I was able to start it back up a couple of seconds after it happened. In an idiot, so I brushed it off. About twenty minutes ago, the same thing happened, but now the battery seems like it's drained when I try to crank it. Should my first step be to get a new battery, or could it be something more annoying like a bad ground somewhere?
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Jul 9, 2013 20:12
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I have a friend visiting from the east coast this week and have been showing her around WA, put 300 top down miles on the car in the last two days  .
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Jul 9, 2013 20:52
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Guinness posted:The 5-speed I had in my 95 NA is still to this day the best feeling transmission (and clutch and throttle response) I've had the pleasure of driving. It all just combines so perfectly.
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Jul 10, 2013 22:09
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destructo posted:The E46 six speed sucks in comparison to the Mazda 5 speed, it's passable with a ZHP shift knob, but stock it's pretty miserable. One of the first things I did when I got the car was replace the stock knob with a ZHP knob. Huge improvement. The Mazda 5-speed is still king, though. I miss that car 
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Jul 10, 2013 22:13
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X-Post from the "What did you do to your ride today?" thread, thought you guys might like to see my handiwork too! I repaired my paint and windshield after a paint bucket lid hit me on the highway doing ~70ish, the top was down and I may or may not have thought I was going to die...click for BIG; Before  . After  . I also did all the glass in the car too while I was at it since I brought out an extra microfiber cloth  . Shiny! 
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Jul 12, 2013 22:38
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Going to order this Robbins top Monday I guess. I definitely want a pre attached rain rail, but I'm not 100% sold on heated glass. My current top has a heated glass window and I'm not sure if I'll miss it or not. I live in Arkansas so we don't have hellish winters but it does get sort of cold for two-three months. Are NA and NB tops interchangeable? This top is $50 cheaper. I thought I saw one for 419 the other day but it seems to have disappeared. Previa_fun fucked around with this message at 21:57 on Jul 13, 2013 |
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Jul 13, 2013 21:48
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As far as I know NB tops will not fit on NA frames.
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Jul 14, 2013 04:30
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I don't know much about softtops (never had one), but AFAIK, the frames are different. The frames bolt up to the chassis with no issue, though. I think leica mentioned something about buying a spare NB frame to do a softtop replacement.
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Jul 14, 2013 05:58
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I know you need an NB frame to put on a NB factory soft top on a NA but for a robbins? 
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Jul 14, 2013 09:07
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An NB frame and top will work on a NA. However you cannot mix and match the frame and top. If you want an NB top you gotta get an NB frame also. on my first NA Miata I bought a NB top with the frame from a JY and it bolted right on. Applebees Appetizer fucked around with this message at 15:50 on Jul 14, 2013 |
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Jul 14, 2013 15:48
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My Robbins top worked on either NA or NB frame. There were only a couple small differences in installation in the instructions that centered around making the NA work more like an NB. The biggest difference that I could see was the positioning/mounting/attachment of the last cross bow above the rear window between NA-NB.
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Jul 14, 2013 21:59
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I got the gasket for my MAF installed wednesday night and cleared my ECU codes. The engine went nuts for the first 20 seconds after I started it up, but then everything smoothed out and it felt like it's running better. 200 miles so far and no check engine light yet. I've also noticed that the clutch shudder I was getting previously is way less of an issue (it comes and goes though, so possibly just a coincidence). edit: spelling dpidz0r fucked around with this message at 08:28 on Jul 15, 2013 |
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Jul 15, 2013 07:24
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2000 checking in with a weird problem I had on Saturday that may or may not of had some after effects? Approximately 150k miles on this 13 year old chassis and generally running like a top, I got stock at the store for 15 minutes more than I would have liked at what felt like the peak of a pretty hot day in Austin, Texas on Saturday around 3:30 in the afternoon. After a long hard day on the interstate coming down from East Texas (though stopping for gas/snacks twice without starting issues) I could not get the car to turn over after spending 10 minutes or so in the store. Resigned to my fate I call for a ride but then after several more tries do manage to get the car started before they arrive. And now my A/C doesn't work so good anymore? No more starting issues at all in the meanwhile, but the lack of effective A/C is not gonna cut it. Is this mere coincidence? Was I vapor locked?
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Jul 15, 2013 14:34
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Did you get a CEL? I would've guessed a dead camshaft position sensor (they love to fail when hot), but I think the engine should turn over even with a hosed one. If it's not cranking, I'm not sure what it could be but that should be fairly reasonable to diagnose by checking what's getting current or not. Alright, so apparently when somebody decided to have a look inside my miata (see previous post), they didn't immediately realize it was unlocked and did this to it:  At least, that's what I think happened, I rarely use the lock myself. The key now won't go in with a reasonable amount of effort. Any ideas how this can be fixed easily/cheaply? I just don't want to get locked out of my car one day if the battery dies in the car/remote.
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Jul 16, 2013 15:00
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I sucked it up and went ahead with the heated glass because why not. Now once it arrives the fun begins of trying to put the thing on. 
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Jul 17, 2013 01:41
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Previa_fun posted:I sucked it up and went ahead with the heated glass because why not. It's not hard, just annoying. I followed this guide http://www.miata.net/garage/MiataTop2/ .
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Jul 17, 2013 02:34
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The rear defrost strip in my top is kaput and I have to get a whole new top as well, I'm putting it off as long as humanly possible and might even go the "Winter? > Hardtop" route instead.
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Jul 18, 2013 06:27
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8th-samurai posted:It's not hard, just annoying. I followed this guide http://www.miata.net/garage/MiataTop2/ . Thanks for this link, definitely will come in handy. Will I need to order new tension wires or can I reuse the old ones? Tanz-Kommandant posted:The rear defrost strip in my top is kaput and I have to get a whole new top as well, I'm putting it off as long as humanly possible and might even go the "Winter? > Hardtop" route instead. Goddamn I want a hard top but I can't justify the price right now. 
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Jul 18, 2013 07:31
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Previa_fun posted:Thanks for this link, definitely will come in handy. Will I need to order new tension wires or can I reuse the old ones? You can reuse the old ones, you will need to drill out the old rivet and put new rivets in (5/32" or 4mm size rivet, i forget how long but you can size it from the old piece) and there's two blind phillips screws that are very challenging to reach without either a cut 90 degree screwdriver, or what i used was a phillips 1/4" bit and a tiny little offset ratcheting bit driver. You can reuse these screws or you can replace these screws with hex bolts so they're easier to access in the future.
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Jul 18, 2013 11:03
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Previa_fun posted:Thanks for this link, definitely will come in handy. Will I need to order new tension wires or can I reuse the old ones? I got new wires because apparently it's a good idea to, they only cost 30 bucks on ebay for a new set. I guess they get stretched out a bit over time.
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Jul 18, 2013 16:15
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Note to self, miata clutches that are worn out work fine the whole 20 minute test drive, minute 21 is when they slip. New clutch and slave make driving much more fun, and now with good shift boots my hand doesn't feel like it is about to catch fire. Now I just need a set of $136 sensen shocks and I will be styling.
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Jul 18, 2013 20:38
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http://manitoba.kijiji.ca/c-cars-vehicles-cars-trucks-1990-Mazda-MX-5-Miata-Convertible-W0QQAdIdZ505046512 Ugggh, thoughts? It's not like I'm a stranger to rust repair.
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Jul 19, 2013 02:07
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Nah, you can do better for that money (I did, kind of). Hardtop is a nice bonus though.
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Jul 19, 2013 02:49
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This one has been on for a week, it seems the market for miatas in Toronto is pretty dead this summer(as in nothing is selling and everything is overpriced): http://ontario.kijiji.ca/c-cars-vehicles-cars-trucks-2000-Mazda-MX-5-Miata-Convertible-HARD-TOP-ALSO-6-spd-W0QQAdIdZ503221993 It's a perfect weather to drive back home edit: gently caress rusty rockers, not worth the hassle
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Jul 19, 2013 03:34
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Ordered my sensen shocks and honda civic bump stops today, total $152 shipped for both. Not per wheel per car. I had enough money left over for 2 CAS o rings. $.40 each. Felt so saucy I bought 2 $3 wipers. 
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Jul 19, 2013 18:32
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So my tape deck adapter broke and I think Im going to bite the bullet and toss a cheap head unit in my 95. Is there anything I should look out for? A friend had said something to me about the pre 96 cars being harder to change head units.
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Jul 19, 2013 20:20
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Sadi posted:So my tape deck adapter broke and I think Im going to bite the bullet and toss a cheap head unit in my 95. Is there anything I should look out for? A friend had said something to me about the pre 96 cars being harder to change head units. If your car has a bose system it's a bit of a pain, if not, it's a breeze. Just be sure to get the screws out of the eyeball vents so you dont break your bezel.
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Jul 19, 2013 20:46
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Viper915 posted:You can reuse the old ones, you will need to drill out the old rivet and put new rivets in (5/32" or 4mm size rivet, i forget how long but you can size it from the old piece) and there's two blind phillips screws that are very challenging to reach without either a cut 90 degree screwdriver, or what i used was a phillips 1/4" bit and a tiny little offset ratcheting bit driver. You can reuse these screws or you can replace these screws with hex bolts so they're easier to access in the future. The screws aren't an issue at all if you take the frame off the car.
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Jul 20, 2013 03:21
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Elephanthead posted:Ordered my sensen shocks and honda civic bump stops today, total $152 shipped for both. Not per wheel per car. I had enough money left over for 2 CAS o rings. $.40 each. Felt so saucy I bought 2 $3 wipers. How terrible are those shocks? I've never heard of Sensen before.
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Jul 20, 2013 04:29
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Sadi posted:So my tape deck adapter broke and I think Im going to bite the bullet and toss a cheap head unit in my 95. Is there anything I should look out for? A friend had said something to me about the pre 96 cars being harder to change head units. What headunit is it anyway? You much just be able to make your own AUX. I did, it's cake.
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Jul 20, 2013 06:25
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It has the Type 1 (1267)NA01-66-AC0A if that means anything to you. CD player in upper slot and tape and radio in lower slot.
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Jul 20, 2013 06:45
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Saw the rusty NA today, it's in pretty good shape besides the rust. But my god the test drive reminded me how much fun a low power sports car can be. Even in its slightly neglected condition everything just felt so right. As fun as the Fit is the test drive just amplified the issues I have with it (clutch and seat height, etc.) Put in an offer on it, seriously considering getting a Miata regardless though.
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Jul 22, 2013 02:04
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In my NC I've noticed that I'm either too close to the pedals but at a perfect seat angle or pitched too far forward but perfect distance to the pedals which is strange since I'm only 5'9" (32" inseam)...some things you gotta live with though.
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Jul 22, 2013 02:40
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rhombus posted:How terrible are those shocks? I've never heard of Sensen before. I will let you in on a secret, all shocks are built in China now except for a few choice brands. They are standard OEM quality with Japanese seals. For the price I don't really care they have to be better then 25 year old oem shocks. People give them good reviews so I am going with them.
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Jul 22, 2013 13:57
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this might interest you guys went to an ALMS race this weekend at Mosport there was the playboy mx-5 cup there here's some pictures!  
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Jul 22, 2013 17:47
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| # ? May 27, 2024 09:46 |
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My 1996 Miata pulls hard to the left. By hard I mean if I take my hands off the steering wheel at 40mph, the car will completely change lanes in under 4 seconds roughly. It is present at any speed, and if I reverse the car the steering wheel will turn in the other direction. It makes the car fairly fatiguing to drive with it constantly trying to dive towards oncoming traffic, and I am finally ready to try to troubleshoot it. First thing first, I have had the car aligned by a trusted local shop. I had them align it to as close to the Flyin Miata suggested alignment as they could get. This had no discernible effect on the steering pull. I'd like to try to come up with a comprehensive list of things I need to check that could cause my car to steer to the side this badly, so that I can begin troubleshooting it. I have a couple ideas for components to check, but I am largely uncertain where to look next. Wheels probably need balancing, they also might be bent. I figure rotating tires might be a good way to check and see if it's the wheels that are causing an issue. The steering rack is most likely the cause of this issue, but I don't know what I'm looking for when inspecting it, so any help here on troubleshooting it would be appreciated. I imagine it could be bushings or wheel bearings of some kind. I believe the test here is to jack the car up and try moving the wheels in and out, and then to take a pry bar and pull on various arms through the suspension looking for excessive play. There's always the chance it's just a bent as hell suspension component, but in my time working on the car I haven't seen anything obviously wrong, however there is a little dent on the crossmember the engine sits on underneath the car, so I'm worried that this could be the cause. Could it be brakes somehow? It's done this since I've owned the car, and in that time I've replaced the rotors and pads with no effect on this steering issue. So my questions are how do I inspect/check the steering rack for issues that could cause my steering problem, and what am I forgetting to check for? Thanks.
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Jul 23, 2013 16:38
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