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calranthe posted:Draytek 2820n Adsl2+ plus switch connected items two primary games computers, ps3, psvita, two laptops, one media pc, one server running a mud, two smartphones, two lacie nas 2tb and two tablets, printer and crafting system. I've been running a Draytek ADSL 2+ modem for about six months now and no issues. I haven't had any problems with it as I've never really had to go back in to do anything once I got everything working. It's certainly more reliable than my time capsule which needs regular reboots after heavy routing activity. Draytek seem to make some good gear, worth the money so far supports VPN, DDoS protection, routing and can do modem fallback all on the same device.
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Jul 19, 2013 02:20
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I have a home server running 2012 Essentials that I remotely access via the Access Anywhere feature. I was wondering if there is any software out there that will allow me to create my own personal Dropbox-type service. I know that I can go to my Access Anywhere page and upload/download, but I was thinking of something that easily syncs with my server.
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Jul 19, 2013 03:51
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Have a look at this. Provided you can get it working the way you want. http://owncloud.org/
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Jul 19, 2013 05:48
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Gnomedolf posted:I have a home server running 2012 Essentials that I remotely access via the Access Anywhere feature. I was wondering if there is any software out there that will allow me to create my own personal Dropbox-type service. I know that I can go to my Access Anywhere page and upload/download, but I was thinking of something that easily syncs with my server. It might be a little complicated to set up the way you like but rsync over ssh is what I use, though I don't know about setting it up on windows. Probably not too hard with Cygwin though, and you can use that access anywhere page to do remote file management and for grabbing a packaged portable copy of putty and your configs in a pinch.
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Jul 19, 2013 06:51
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I've tried to figure out what's happening with my connection lately and I'm stumped. I recently upgraded to a Linksys E2500 router from an extremely old one, but I've been having some problems with the stability of my connection lately. In specific, I'll be playing Last of Us multiplayer on my PS3, when I will receive what appears to be a pretty massive lag spike. I'm kicked out of my match in most instances, in some cases I'll reconnect after a short period of being completely frozen. There are currently 7 connected devices in my apartment: my PS3, phone, tablet, laptop, kindle, my girlfriend's phone and her laptop. Only the laptops, phone and PS3 see constant use. What's strange is that these period bursts of lag don't result in a dropped connection - I remain connected to the network. It's only really noticeable in playing that game in specific (which leads me to believe that, maybe, it's a netcode issue?), as it's happening sporadically. A good portion of the time I'll be able to get through three or four games without issue, but then the lag bursts will occur. I haven't really noticed it impacting anything else. I'm really not sure what's happening, but part of the reason why I got a new router in the first place was to avoid having to cycle my router constantly  I'm on the latest firmware. Anyone got any ideas? \/\/ - Nope, no old cordless phones, cells only. ex post facho fucked around with this message at 22:18 on Jul 19, 2013 |
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Jul 19, 2013 19:25
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Getting a phone call on an old cordless phone around the same time?
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Jul 19, 2013 19:53
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Would appreciate some feedback / advice on my options for upgrading the LAN side of my home network. Site ==== 1990's new build house UK (high house density and small). Wiring should be good. Broadband ========= 4Mbit Sky unlimited. I use a Sky supplied modem/router (Netgear I think). The router / Sky has been totally rock-solid. Wireless coverage is 4 or 5 bars everywhere in the house / garden. Internet disconnections are rare (approximately once or twice a month) and 99% of the time are fixed by resetting the connection in the router admin screen. Occasionally the router itself needs a hard reset. Can't remember the last time there was an extended (>1 hour) service outage; possibly never. The router is 802.11g and has 4 10/100 ethernet ports. Devices ======= Wired Devices (via 200Mbit Homeplugs). PC/Server, Win 7 professional, GBit NIC, no wireless NAS, Win 7 professional, GBit NIC, no wireless HTPC, Win 7 professional, XBMC, GBit NIC, no wireless. This is an mITX home build based on an AMD 350E mobo. Streaming 1080p content from across the network has so far been flawless. Sky+ PVR. Wireless Devices ================ Laptop, Win 7 Home, 802.11 b/g/n 300 chip-set, GBit NIC Netbook, Win 7 Home, 802.11 b/g/n 300 chip-set, GBit NIC Samsung Galaxy S3 x2 (802.11 b/g/n) Backups / Sync ============== The wireless devices backup / sync to the NAS at approx 2.5 MB per second sustained (20Mbit per second) using Goodsync. Documentation for Goodsync suggests it uses block copy but who knows. The wired device devices back / sync at approx 4.2 MB per second sustained (34Mbit per second). A utility program that comes with the plugs suggest that the available bandwidth (at the PHY layer) is of the order of 150MBit. I realize that there is overhead and inefficiency but 80% seems ridiculous. Most of the plugs are plugged into extension cables, a practice explicitly recommended against in the documentation, but there are not enough spare sockets in the house not to do this. The backup /sync speeds are extremely disappointing. I used a cheap 1 GBit consumer switch and wired in all the devices. Using the same software I was getting 40+MB per second (320+ MBit) sustained transfer rates. Upgrade possibilities ===================== Retrofitting cat5e or coax does not pass the "wife test"  1. Move to wireless only ------------------------ Buy a 300 / 600 N dual band modem/router (or maybe just a router; see below) and get 300 / 600 N wireless NICs for the currently wired devices. I wouldn't try bonding the bands. I'm not clear exactly what sort of usable bandwith I would be likely to get. More problematical is whether to swap out the existing modem/router with a new device or just plug a new device into the existing modem/router. To replace the existing device you need to extract a DSL userid and password from the existing device (using a script and the device MAC address). This appears to be reliable and tolerated by Sky. However this only works if your DSL connection is PPPoE and Sky appear to be slowly converting their user base from PPPoE to MER. Most consumer modem/routers don't appear to support MER and replacing the stock device successfully appears to be much less reliable (according to the research I have done). The option of just plugging in a new device into the existing device appears to be tricky too as the existing Sky modem/router does not support bridging. 2. Upgrade Homeplugs -------------------- The other available option is to upgrade the wireless portion of the network (as above) and upgrade the Homeplugs to 500Mbit devices. I'm loathe to do this given that the 200Mbit plugs only currently allow approx 4.2 MB transfers. Thoughts or advice would be appreciated.
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Jul 20, 2013 09:06
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So the OP is out of date and my Buffalo router with DD-WRT isn't able to handle a 100mbit connection. Are these ASUS RT-AC66U routers basically the best option these days? I see lots of "my router died after 3 months" posts on Amazon and it's scaring me.
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Jul 20, 2013 15:53
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blargle posted:So the OP is out of date and my Buffalo router with DD-WRT isn't able to handle a 100mbit connection. Are these ASUS RT-AC66U routers basically the best option these days? I see lots of "my router died after 3 months" posts on Amazon and it's scaring me. I've read that with the Merlin firmware they seem pretty stable, but I'm looking around myself. My WNDR3700's wifi keeps dying on me.
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Jul 21, 2013 16:45
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What do you guys think of the Almond? Or the new Airport Extreme?
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Jul 21, 2013 19:41
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Lowness 72 posted:What do you guys think of the Almond? Or the new Airport Extreme? All the past airport extremes have been pretty solid, if not always the best performers (but their antenna design continues to improve). Hopefully the new one will continue this trend. I'm planning on replacing my simultaneous dual band (older) time capsule with a new time capsule of the current design when money permits. They're just expensive and not that customizable, but if you want something that just works and you don't need to do a ton of crazy stuff to it (I mean, you can do port forwarding and the normal sort of stuff) and is reliable it's a good choice.
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Jul 21, 2013 22:08
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Lowness 72 posted:What do you guys think of the Almond? Or the new Airport Extreme? Almond is a good router for non-techies to set up, great for oldsters that don't need to torrent multi-gigabyte Obamacare documents. The touch screen even comes with a stylus so you don't need a laptop to configure it. However, it's only got a 384 MHz CPU, and it's not dual band, and it probably wouldn't be good for a large household or somebody who wants bleeding edge performance, but it's pretty inexpensive at $90 from Amazon. New Airport Extreme is top notch but unless you own a brand new MacBook Air or a laptop with a brand new 802.11ac NIC, you won't be able to take full advantage of its higher speeds, you'd be better off picking up an Apple refurbed 5th Generation AEBS for $125 from the Apple Store. Binary Badger fucked around with this message at 15:40 on Jul 22, 2013 |
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Jul 22, 2013 15:38
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My Netgear router is getting flaky on me and seems like it might quit soon... I figure if I get a new one then, I might as well go for 802.11ac (I do have a device that supports it). Is there any sort of consensus on that's good in that area yet? Do any of them support Tomato, which I'm loving addicted to now? 
Powdered Toast Man fucked around with this message at 23:47 on Jul 22, 2013 |
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Jul 22, 2013 23:45
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So I live in a really old apartment building, and my Time Capsule's wifi signal, while connectable, is more or less unusable in my bedroom. Moving the Time Capsule itself isn't an option, and my bedroom is about 25 feet away from the router itself. I went ahead and bought an Asus RT-N16 with the intention of putting Tomato on it and upping the signal power (I had a WRT54 way back running dd-wrt) so I figured it would be a cinch. I found a short writeup on installing TomatoUSB on it, followed it, and now have what appears to be a dead router on my hands. I have it connected to my desktop through LAN port 1 with my wireless adapter turned off. I can't ping it. I've tried a hard reset and everything else I can think of to try and use the firmware restoration tool to flash it back to stock. When I power it on to put it into recovery, I get the slow blinking light indicating recovery mode and hit 'go' on the restoration tool. After like 5 seconds of the tool trying to find the device, the power light just goes off on the router (port #1 activity light still on) and the restoration tool tells me that the router isn't in rescue mode. Any ideas? edit: oh my god i am a loving idiot i didn't think to connect to the wifi signal it was broadcasting everything works fine 
print scream key fucked around with this message at 01:15 on Jul 23, 2013 |
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Jul 23, 2013 01:06
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Just wanted to get some quick layout advice before I dive in this afternoon. Upstairs I have modem, desktop (with external hard drive for media storage), wireless router. Down stairs I have XBMC (pivos xios), 360, and a second wireless router. To tie these all togethet I have two powerlines adapters (live in townhouse recently built) and a switch that should arrrive by the time I get home. Connection downstairs has been sketchy so hopefully doing everything direct (instead via witless router) will help things out. Open to any advice.
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Jul 23, 2013 17:27
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Recently I decided to upgrade from my 5yr old WRT54G2 V1. So about a few months ago, I bought a Linksys E3200 and put it in my closet. Finally with some time to set things up, I setup the router with DD-WRT (doesn't support dual-band on my model). Two problems arose from this: 1. Speeds seemed to be a little lower than they should from the WAN. So checked Speed Test and it showed my closet server to be Little Rock, AR where as I lived in DC. Previously with the old router, closet server was also DC. Released and renewed WAN DHCP a few times, nothing changed. 2. Next with the E3200, I noticed none of my Windows/Samba shares were showing up on any other machine. After a day or so of trying to figure out the problem, I gave up and decided to buy the ASUS RT-AC66U and flash the latest Merlin firmware. The router works great, connects to the Speed Test server in DC, gives me good speeds, no problem on the 2.4GHz or 5GHz bands, however, I'm plagued with the same problem of not being able to connect to the network shares. So I do a few days worth of research and find out about an issue with the default workgroup on the router causing conflicts with others on the network. I made sure all devices on the network (Macs and PCs) were set to WORKGROUP for their workgroup along with the router with it being forced as the master browser. Shut off all devices, restarted the router, and powered on the other devices again. Now, all of my PCs can see each other on the network but no Mac can ping or connect via SMB to a PC. The PCs can ping the Macs but can't see their network shares. Anyone have these problem before? Spent the past 5 days trying to resolve the share issue between the two routers and have pretty much given up on the poor WAN connection of the Linksys router.
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Jul 24, 2013 03:57
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So I've been tasked with helping the small office where I work pick a new router. I read the OP but it hasn't been updated since 2012, so I'm hoping somebody can help guide me with more current products! Our IT "infrastructure" is primarily laptop PCs, Comcast is our ISP, and we're using a Netgear WNDR3800. Over the last couple of weeks the connection at our PCs keeps dropping, at an increasing rate. Resetting the router always fixes the problem and my past experiences with routers crapping out after a couple of years suggests to me that the issue lies there. For a new wireless router, what brands/models should I be looking at? Let's say under $200 budget. We need fast and reliable connections, as we do a lot of streaming stuff (Hangouts, Go2Meeting, etc.) And hey, in the middle of this post, it dropped the connection. Second time today.
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Jul 24, 2013 20:15
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SyHopeful posted:So I've been tasked with helping the small office where I work pick a new router. I read the OP but it hasn't been updated since 2012, so I'm hoping somebody can help guide me with more current products! The best consumer routers you can buy right now are probably either an Asus RT-AC66U or Netgear R6300 which can both be had for under your $200 budget. It looks like the Asus is few bucks cheaper on Amazon so that's what I would go with. Or if you want to get your hands dirty with something that's probably more than you really need you could get a Mikrotik RB750GL router and pair it with a Ubiquiti enterprise access point. This would give you an enterprise level setup that should be rock solid but it would require some work on your side since the setup for these is geared toward networking pros.
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Jul 24, 2013 21:34
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Just get an Asus RT-N66U probably, which is in the OP - it is still great. Although the AC model is also under $200, but you probably have less use for AC and it apparently might possibly be less reliable. Also, new AEBS dark horse option.
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Jul 24, 2013 21:35
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Krailor posted:The best consumer routers you can buy right now are probably either an Asus RT-AC66U or Netgear R6300 which can both be had for under your $200 budget. It looks like the Asus is few bucks cheaper on Amazon so that's what I would go with. Thanks! I presume it doesn't suffer from Asus' spotty QC, since it's the darling of this thread? And yeah, I really don't have any desire to try and tackle more pro-level stuff at this place.
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Jul 24, 2013 21:55
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The non AC 66 model is definitely solid with a lot of reviews and 4.5 stars on amazon, I think there are some questions as yet about the AC model.
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Jul 24, 2013 21:57
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Dogen posted:The non AC 66 model is definitely solid with a lot of reviews and 4.5 stars on amazon, I think there are some questions as yet about the AC model. I decided to go with the N66U, since none of our PCs use it (for now anyway) 
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Jul 24, 2013 22:06
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The N66U webui is pretty janky, but the device has been pretty stable for me despite all my dicking with it.
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Jul 24, 2013 22:06
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This may not be the exact right thread for posting this, so if there's a better one just point me in that direction. I'm trying to host a gaming server (for the upcoming Dominions 4, if it matters - not exactly a high-intensity application), but the internet provider to the building where I live is very customer-unfriendly. Port forwarding is completely disabled on the router which is provided by them, and only that particular router will function with their service. I have tried to replace the router and the replacement is not recognized. I have spoken with the company about this and I have been told that they will not allow port forwarding for any reason. So, what can I do to fix this? I can make outgoing connections without issue, but incoming connections are blocked. Is there a program or service I can use that will allow people to connect to my computer remotely, but transparently? I know Hamachi can be used to create a virtual network, but that's a lot of hassle for everyone else to go through; is there something similar that can be used by just the server, so that all anyone else would need to do would be type in an IP and port into the game itself?
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Jul 26, 2013 17:11
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Kylaer posted:This may not be the exact right thread for posting this, so if there's a better one just point me in that direction. I'm trying to host a gaming server (for the upcoming Dominions 4, if it matters - not exactly a high-intensity application), but the internet provider to the building where I live is very customer-unfriendly. Port forwarding is completely disabled on the router which is provided by them, and only that particular router will function with their service. I have tried to replace the router and the replacement is not recognized. I have spoken with the company about this and I have been told that they will not allow port forwarding for any reason. The service you want is a virtual private server acting as a proxy. The basic idea is that, hosted off in the cloud somewhere, you have a box without connection restrictions. This box's sole purpose is to forward traffic to your system via an SSH tunnel or what have you. I don't have any recommendations on vendors, but I know a few hosting services advertise goon discounts in SA Mart. You could start your search there.
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Jul 26, 2013 17:56
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Alright, great. I don't have any experience with that kind of thing but it doesn't sound too complicated. This thread would be an example of what I'm looking for, right? vvv That looks to be a lot more capacity than what I need. I don't actually need a server to host the game, it's not hardware-intensive or bandwidth-intensive at all, my stumbling block is that I can't open ports on my router to let people connect in. Kylaer fucked around with this message at 18:32 on Jul 26, 2013 |
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Jul 26, 2013 18:19
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Kylaer posted:Alright, great. I don't have any experience with that kind of thing but it doesn't sound too complicated. This thread would be an example of what I'm looking for, right? I think you would want something more like this: http://forums.somethingawful.com/showthread.php?threadid=3508988
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Jul 26, 2013 18:20
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Kylaer posted:vvv That looks to be a lot more capacity than what I need. I don't actually need a server to host the game, it's not hardware-intensive or bandwidth-intensive at all, my stumbling block is that I can't open ports on my router to let people connect in. For the use case that was described, the solution needs a server that runs some kind of forwarding software, and that server also needs to be running an SSH server that you connect to with your SSH client. Let's say Dominions 4 needs port 4900 for gaming connections. Fire up the VPS. The server IP is 1.1.1.1 port 4900. The players type that IP into their game client. Meanwhile, you are connected to 1.1.1.1 on port 22. The players send their game moves to 1.1.1.1 on port 4900, which then sends their traffic over to you using your existing, outbound port 22 SSH tunnel. You aren't running Dominions 4 on the dedicated server, you are using a dedicated server instance to: 1. Accept connections on the relevant Dominions 4 port(s) 2. Accept your incoming SSH tunnel 3. Tunnel the Dominions 4 traffic over your SSH tunnel 4. Return the responses to the appropriate clients over the internet. The reason people say VPS is that you need access to the server (via shell / rdp / cpanel) to configure things the way you want, and that is generally considered a 'virtual private server' in the hosting industry. You can change how much ram, disk space, and CPU the private server has to the bare minimums for your use case, and you should be able to find a provider that can sell you a cheap (overprovisioned) VM that will do what you want.
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Jul 26, 2013 18:44
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Thank you for the detailed explanation, that all makes sense. The cheapest option I saw when I first looked at betaForce is $20/month and provides 2000GB of monthly bandwidth, which is way more than I need, but then I looked further into the site and found a budget option for only $6 a month, which is perfectly feasible within my budget. Thanks again! I still have to figure out exactly how to make it work but I am confident I can do that.
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Jul 26, 2013 19:00
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Kylaer posted:Thank you for the detailed explanation, that all makes sense. The cheapest option I saw when I first looked at betaForce is $20/month and provides 2000GB of monthly bandwidth, which is way more than I need, but then I looked further into the site and found a budget option for only $6 a month, which is perfectly feasible within my budget. Thanks again! I still have to figure out exactly how to make it work but I am confident I can do that. The betaforce guys are amazing, if you ask them how to set it up I'm sure they'd be more than happy to help you.
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Jul 26, 2013 19:54
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Kylaer posted:Thank you for the detailed explanation, that all makes sense. The cheapest option I saw when I first looked at betaForce is $20/month and provides 2000GB of monthly bandwidth, which is way more than I need, but then I looked further into the site and found a budget option for only $6 a month, which is perfectly feasible within my budget. Thanks again! I still have to figure out exactly how to make it work but I am confident I can do that. You didn't look very hard  - https://billing.betaforce.com/cart/budget/&step=0
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Jul 26, 2013 20:14
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Does anyone know if there is a way to do a passthrough on a ASUS N66U? I simply can't find it, where you put in a MAC address and pass a second public IP to a device, so that device isn't actually behind the router except in terms of simple routing. I do have a multi-port modem/router combo from my ISP, but I don't want to use it as the XBox is behind a switch with the printer. Trying to see if there is a way to do this without running an extra cable for the Xbox to go straight into the modem.
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Jul 26, 2013 21:30
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Gothmog1065 posted:Does anyone know if there is a way to do a passthrough on a ASUS N66U? I simply can't find it, where you put in a MAC address and pass a second public IP to a device, so that device isn't actually behind the router except in terms of simple routing. Uhhhh... does the N66U not give you an "open nat"? My crappy non upnp supporting AirPort Extreme give me that.
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Jul 27, 2013 00:52
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Dogen posted:Uhhhh... does the N66U not give you an "open nat"? My crappy non upnp supporting AirPort Extreme give me that. I don't see that option. The only NAT thing I see is the NAT passthrough which is only the typical VPN passes that you can turn on or off.
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Jul 27, 2013 05:44
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That seems like a very bizarre configuration and I am not understanding how that would work. What IP information did your ISP give you? Were you assigned a /30 and a default gateway? Or do you only have one public address and want to define a host as a Virtual DMZ?
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Jul 27, 2013 05:47
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How is Asus RT-N56U compared to the OP-recommended RT-N16? They're pretty much the same price, is the N56U just an updated version? E: Well gently caress it, just buying it. Can't be that bad, right? nielsm fucked around with this message at 11:53 on Jul 27, 2013 |
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Jul 27, 2013 10:03
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I recently moved and can no longer hook up my TV straight to my computer via HDMI. I have an Asus RT-N16 that I bought a couple years ago that has served me well except for never being supported by DD-WRT (or at least, not during the year or so that I kept looking). Anyway, I started learning about the wonders of DLNA and found I can just watch videos straight from my TV. My only problem is I can't stream 1080p reliably. I also couldn't stream Youtube at 1080p either, and I think they are related. I have some devices that aren't compatible with 802.11n so I've had to use g. Is this preventing me from streaming at HD? I bought an Asus RT-66U last night becuase I was in impulse mode and my old router dies sometimes anyways. Will the dual band solve all my problems? N for streaming to my TV and g to stream to my shittier devices? I'm also considering getting a Belkin WHDI device for streaming PC games to my TV, but I suppose that is out of the realm of this thread.
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Jul 27, 2013 15:48
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Ninja Rope posted:That seems like a very bizarre configuration and I am not understanding how that would work. What IP information did your ISP give you? Were you assigned a /30 and a default gateway? Or do you only have one public address and want to define a host as a Virtual DMZ? I'm not really trying to subnet. Basically I'm paying to get two IPs from my ISP because I noticed a HUGE difference in my gaming latency on the XBox (Even after port forwarding, DMZ, on the Xbox). What I am trying to do (If possible) is have the router pick up one IP and do the typical NAT routing from there, and have the second IP passed through to the XBox by itself. I supposed it would be more akin to setting up a VPN, but not really. That way all my computers, printer, etc are protected by the router, but the XBox would be completely outside the router's firewall and NAT setup. The more I think about it, the more I think I'm just going to move the XBox and plug it directly into the modem and bypass the router completely.
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Jul 27, 2013 16:33
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Gothmog1065 posted:The more I think about it, the more I think I'm just going to move the XBox and plug it directly into the modem and bypass the router completely. Yeah can't you just get a switch and plug Xbox and router into that?
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Jul 27, 2013 17:15
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I'll just move it closer to the modem, for some reason I thought there was an easy setting in the router to do this, I must have been mistaken.
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Jul 27, 2013 18:21
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