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Larrymer posted:It's a waste of time and money for 93 unless it requires it. Cadillacs do.
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# ? Jul 20, 2013 19:43 |
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# ? Jun 5, 2024 04:37 |
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Diagnosed bad ujoint/s on my f150's lower steering shaft. Hey Powershift, any chance you know any way to replace the joints, rather than replacing the shaft?
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# ? Jul 21, 2013 02:48 |
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A big fuckin hammer. They're just u-joints. you replace em like you would any other u-joint. I've never done em in a pickup, but with the mack it took like half an hour and cost 25 bucks. e: looking for part number, sounds like the lower shaft is unserviceable, that sounds like a challenge. Powershift fucked around with this message at 03:15 on Jul 21, 2013 |
# ? Jul 21, 2013 03:11 |
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Powershift posted:A big fuckin hammer. Ugh, it just pisses me off that it has replaceable ujoints. They aren't even sealed in their or anything.
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# ? Jul 21, 2013 04:29 |
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Ozmiander posted:Ugh, it just pisses me off that it has replaceable ujoints. They aren't even sealed in their or anything. What, that's great, why would you want them integral to the driveshaft anyway?
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# ? Jul 21, 2013 05:12 |
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Seriously. Having to replace what should be a durable part because the design included a normally replaceable wear part is the most frustrating loving thing ever. I'd much rather replace a ujoint than an entire driveshaft.
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# ? Jul 21, 2013 05:15 |
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Carteret posted:Seriously. Having to replace what should be a durable part because the design included a normally replaceable wear part is the most frustrating loving thing ever. I'd much rather replace a ujoint than an entire driveshaft. Except they don't sell the joints.
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# ? Jul 21, 2013 14:09 |
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Chrysler/Dodge/Jeep can go to loving hell for that too, I'm too cheap to buy $200+ new steering shafts and even ones that test as good in the junkyard only last me about 6 months before binding up and then becoming really loose, probably due to my driving style. The U-joints are just staked in, they should come out easy, but then what are you going to put back IN? I researched it about 4 months ago and the answers are split 50/50, some people say non serviceable, no parts available. The toothless redneck hick contingent says just go on down to da tractor store an git you sum of these little tractor PTO ujoints! which is loving great, except they aren't even in the same universe as "having the right dimensions". kastein fucked around with this message at 14:16 on Jul 21, 2013 |
# ? Jul 21, 2013 14:14 |
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I've had the 240d parked while waiting for a new alternator to show up. Apparently it failed in such a manner as to short the battery, as it was dead again. The ITR had to give it a jump. Took a while to get enough charge to turn over. Then I changed out the bad alternator and all is well. trouser chili fucked around with this message at 18:10 on Jul 21, 2013 |
# ? Jul 21, 2013 18:07 |
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It didn't get stolen in the amount of time it took to jump the Merc?
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# ? Jul 21, 2013 18:12 |
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How did it feel backing your rocketship out of the garage, then having to drive away in the 240D?
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# ? Jul 21, 2013 18:20 |
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trouser chili posted:I've had the 240d parked while waiting for a new alternator to show up. Apparently it failed in such a manner as to short the battery, as it was dead again. The ITR had to give it a jump. Took a while to get enough charge to turn over. Nice hot air intake
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# ? Jul 21, 2013 19:32 |
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Raluek posted:How did it feel backing your rocketship out of the garage, then having to drive away in the 240D? Actually I had been driving the ITR as the 250c is down with a bad slave cylinder and the Scout is...well it's the Scout. This location is near where I've been storing the ITR, so I actually drove there in the ITR after work and found the 240d dead where I parked it. After jumping it, I stored the ITR away and drove the diesel home. The dichotomy between the two is as wide as the grand canyon. The only similarity I can find is that they feel to have approximately the same final drive ratio. Of course, all my vehicles have a lot of dichotomy between them and very few similarities, so jumping between very different vehicles is common for me. I'd actually say the two vehicles I own with the greatest difference in driving character are the Scout II and the 250c.
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# ? Jul 21, 2013 19:33 |
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Detroit Q. Spider posted:Nice hot air intake Yeah, it likely does me no good from a performance standpoint, I just like the sound. The B18c5 on-cam gives a glorious intake sound. That's the stock intake by the way, I've just removed the top cover to the filter housing.
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# ? Jul 21, 2013 19:35 |
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trouser chili posted:Yeah, it likely does me no good from a performance standpoint, I just like the sound. The B18c5 on-cam gives a glorious intake sound. That's the stock intake by the way, I've just removed the top cover to the filter housing. Oh I know it. I'll be honest, I have a hot air intake and as long as I'm not losing performance (maybe a little is OK) I would never have any kind of a baffled/silenced intake on a car again. Standing on it and just hearing valvetrain clatter is for chumps.
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# ? Jul 21, 2013 19:38 |
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kastein posted:Chrysler/Dodge/Jeep can go to loving hell for that too, I'm too cheap to buy $200+ new steering shafts and even ones that test as good in the junkyard only last me about 6 months before binding up and then becoming really loose, probably due to my driving style. I'd say make your own steering shaft using street rod stuff with replaceable joints.
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# ? Jul 21, 2013 19:45 |
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I'm pretty sure most people buy aftermarket intakes because of the sound. I know I did. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SCQhd5Xt-sM
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# ? Jul 21, 2013 20:01 |
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Got my engine cleaned, new plugs and wires, new engine seals. Next major service is to get my timing belt replaced (still on original after 219K!) valve adjustment and water pump changed.
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# ? Jul 21, 2013 20:12 |
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Pressure washed the F150. What do you do when you blast the inside of the frame and it doesn't unleash a torrent of red rust water and sand? It's 9 years old and has lived in NY exclusively.
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# ? Jul 21, 2013 20:14 |
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Well god-damned it. I've replaced the battery and the alternator now, and it's still not charging. Actually it did charge, for one 40 mile trip after installing the new alt. Next morning it went back to it's old ways. Here's a dumb video I made about the car's state right now. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LvxkNd8Y7i0 So basically when you turn the key and start the glow plug warming cycle, the battery and brake-wear warning lamps should illuminate as part of a bulb test. However, the goofy design of the Mercedes charging system also depends upon seeing battery voltage (minus about .5vdc to run the bulb) from the battery warning lamp at the alternator. This is found at the blue wire. I've tested at the blue wire and see no voltage at key off, battery voltage (minus .5vdc) on key-on. I've connected that blue wire to ground and got the lamps to illuminate. So that's great, but the drat alternator still doesn't charge the battery. Perhaps the new alt is fried. I've got no loving clue.
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# ? Jul 21, 2013 23:29 |
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Nothing to my ride (yet), but I finally found a free weekend and got to clean and powerwash my garage, and then build a second workbench. There's still some stuff in there that needs to be thrown away (I'm looking at you, wheelbarrow full of crap on the left), but my trash bin is completely full, so it'll have to wait until next week. Click for huge: Now I have to swap spacers on my car and mount a roof rack on my wife's Jeep. I love car weekends.
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# ? Jul 21, 2013 23:51 |
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Larrymer posted:Keen observers may note the Rock Auto boxes in the background of one of the pics. I've got new axles for the front to put in tomorrow and plan to give the front hubs another go at cleaning/rust removal. This sure was optimistic. Now I'm probably going to have to replace the whole front end on both sides because rust/corrosion loving up my world. I almost got one axle out today. Almost.
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# ? Jul 22, 2013 00:22 |
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Trip to Jaycar (electronics shop), one grumpy assistant later (you want only one of each of these three capacitors?) and $1.80 and you have 3/5 of a Soarer Ecu rebuild kit. (The other two I had to order online) Couldn't be bothered waiting for the last parts to arrive so I got desoldering/resoldering this arvo. So far the idle has calmed down and is a touch smoother, petrol consumption seems to have dropped below Mazda rotary levels which is great and for now the running rich smoke seems to have disappeared. God only knows what the last two caps will fix but so far it's been the best cheap fix ever!
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# ? Jul 22, 2013 06:53 |
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trouser chili posted:Well god-damned it. I've replaced the battery and the alternator now, and it's still not charging. Actually it did charge, for one 40 mile trip after installing the new alt. Next morning it went back to it's old ways. Here's a dumb video I made about the car's state right now. I was going to say that if the dash light is burned out, a lot of alternators won't charge. Then I re-read and watched the video. I think you just lost the rebuilt alternator charging game. I lost it a couple of times, and lost the rebuilt starter game 6 times in about as many months on my first car trouser chili posted:Yeah, it likely does me no good from a performance standpoint, I just like the sound. The B18c5 on-cam gives a glorious intake sound. Dat sound. Even the lowly D16Y8/Z6 sounds drat nice when it kicks into VTEC with a decent intake. That's probably the biggest thing I miss about my Civics, it sounded like a combination of WW3 meets the world's angriest bees under the hood at WOT. b0nes posted:Got my engine cleaned, new plugs and wires, new engine seals. You... you really need to do that ASAP, personally I wouldn't drive it even to the shop, I'd get it towed. The F22 isn't a fan of piston valve sexy time, and that belt is going to be at least 18 years old by now. Possibly 20 years old, if you're rocking a 94 with a 93 build date. I'm pretty sure they recommended 6 years/90k miles.. .... you know you've owned too many Hondas when you can name the model/approximate year just from a single photo of the engine bay Good job keeping it clean though, that engine's drat near clean enough to eat off of. randomidiot fucked around with this message at 07:21 on Jul 22, 2013 |
# ? Jul 22, 2013 07:12 |
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Speaking of which, all that engine compartment does is fill me with rage and hate. If I ever meet whoever designed the alternator/power steering pump mounting and tensioning system, or the hubs/rotors, I swear upon all that is holy I will punt their testicles into low earth orbit. Today I put a new-to-it steering knuckle on the red cherokee in the parking lot at work, since some chucklefuck previous owner had stripped a caliper slide bolt hole out, drilled it oversize (at an angle) and retapped with a random SAE size, also at an angle. So the slide bolt bent upon the first press of the brake pedal every time it was installed, but not quite far enough, causing the brakes to drag a bit and wear at an angle.
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# ? Jul 23, 2013 01:41 |
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Installed an inline fuse to my compressor clutch on the Blazer. My A/C fuse blew again the other day, worked when I shut the truck off, was dead when I fired it up a minute later after running into the store. My gut instinct is that the diode is fried, so when the coil field collapses it sends a voltage spike through the wire. The only other path to ground on that circuit is through the blower motor, so if the inline fuse doesn't blow it's probably that. Also discovered why my washer quit spraying; probed the pump connector with my meter and there's continuity between the two terminals on the harness side. Worked fine when I got the truck despite the rotating switch on the stalk being cracked into two pieces. Weird thing is, if I turn it the wipers still do the two-pass cycle you'd expect with the sprayers, so it's at least sending signal to the computer correctly I believe. Gonna require further diagnosis, I pulled off the firewall harness connector it's tied into but A) it was nasty as poo poo inside, and apparently held in place by clear silicone or epoxy or some poo poo(I went and bought some MAF cleaner after I put it back together to clean it out later); and B) it started raining soon after so I had to quit for the day.
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# ? Jul 23, 2013 02:13 |
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As it turns out, the brand new lifetime-warranty alternator that's turned all of 50 miles in the 240d is in fact now dead. Go go Autozone lifetime warranty. You'd think they'd bother to screw the lifetime poo poo together at least marginally well.
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# ? Jul 23, 2013 02:59 |
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trouser chili posted:As it turns out, the brand new lifetime-warranty alternator that's turned all of 50 miles in the 240d is in fact now dead. Go go Autozone lifetime warranty. You'd think they'd bother to screw the lifetime poo poo together at least marginally well. The 7.25 an hour they pay paco to rebuild alternators is worth paying to get you back into the store to spend more money on stick-on fendervents.
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# ? Jul 23, 2013 03:12 |
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Powershift posted:The 7.25 an hour they pay paco to rebuild alternators is worth paying to get you back into the store to spend more money on stick-on fendervents. I gots a Buick Maserati.
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# ? Jul 23, 2013 03:20 |
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trouser chili posted:As it turns out, the brand new lifetime-warranty alternator that's turned all of 50 miles in the 240d is in fact now dead. Go go Autozone lifetime warranty. You'd think they'd bother to screw the lifetime poo poo together at least marginally well. When I finished putting a JDM engine in my Celica way back when I went through 3 alternators from Auto Zone before I got one that would actually work.
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# ? Jul 23, 2013 07:21 |
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Powershift posted:The 7.25 an hour they pay paco to rebuild alternators is worth paying to get you back into the store to spend more money on stick-on fendervents. A lot of them are rebuilt outside of the US. trouser chili posted:As it turns out, the brand new lifetime-warranty alternator that's turned all of 50 miles in the 240d is in fact now dead. Go go Autozone lifetime warranty. You'd think they'd bother to screw the lifetime poo poo together at least marginally well. This is why I'm a big fan of finding a good local alternator/starter shop. Might cost more, but they usually do it right the first time. If I need it working right then I'll go to Napa instead. And gently caress Autozone, they actually refused to replace the power window switch I bought for the Altima when I went through 4 of them in 3 days (I think I went through a total of 7 or 8 of them in a few months). Their computers won't even let you do an exchange on the same day, period. The district manager offered to refund my money after I bitched enough, but kept saying the car had "dangerous electrical problems if it's destroying power window switches" (the electrical was the only thing I didn't ever have issue with on that car, aside from replacing the alternator once). Also turns out the dealer part was only $20 more, and worked perfectly until I got rid of the car. I had a manager give me the 50 questions routine when I tried to exchange a belt 3 months after purchase, when it shredded while driving, and they swore up and down they'd never had to do a warranty replacement on a belt before. The only warrantied part I'll buy there these days are brake pads. randomidiot fucked around with this message at 07:50 on Jul 23, 2013 |
# ? Jul 23, 2013 07:47 |
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j3rkstore posted:
For some content here my stock wheels refinished in white I think i need some of those red ricer lug nuts now.
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# ? Jul 23, 2013 13:58 |
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Got my car back from the mechanic, with the collision damage (and hosed handbrake) repaired. The collision damage came to ~$2850, of which I'll have to pay a tiny percentage to account for normal wear and tear, since they replaced my 13-year-old scratched-up bumper with a brand-spanking new one. Didn't know that, but it's right there in my insurance policy. Oh well, at least it won't affect my premium. For the hosed handbrake, having new discs+drums, pads, shoes and handbrake cable fitted ended up costing me ~$970. At least now I'm back in my own car instead of that dreadfully underpowered 68hp diesel 206. E: Actually, I'm gonna have a chat with the insurance company. I'm not sure the "normal wear and tear" section of my policy even applies in this case, considering I made no demands to restore the bumper etc. to brand-new factory condition, just to the condition it was in before the accident. KozmoNaut fucked around with this message at 15:17 on Jul 23, 2013 |
# ? Jul 23, 2013 14:19 |
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trouser chili posted:As it turns out, the brand new lifetime-warranty alternator that's turned all of 50 miles in the 240d is in fact now dead. Go go Autozone lifetime warranty. You'd think they'd bother to screw the lifetime poo poo together at least marginally well. Nope. This is typical for alternator and starter rebuilds from the big chains. You'll eventually either get 1.) lucky and be handed a good one or 2.) tired of changing it every 6 months and buy a quality rebuild from a good parts store (or have your junk one rebuilt).
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# ? Jul 23, 2013 15:20 |
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some texas redneck posted:A lot of them are rebuilt outside of the US. He didn't specify a currency. Could have meant 7.25 pesos, which amounts to about $.50, and considering the lowest minimum wage rate in Mexico is about $4.50 per day the math would work...
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# ? Jul 23, 2013 16:37 |
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Took it for it's first MOT. I've only just started a job so it's spent a year being 'maintained' on a student budget. Nothing's broken in that time and it seems to have passed its last test just fine, but it now sports an intake pipe primarily composed of duct tape.
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# ? Jul 23, 2013 17:28 |
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RIP 6/88 - 7/13
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# ? Jul 23, 2013 18:50 |
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Nooooo! What happened?
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# ? Jul 23, 2013 19:42 |
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KozmoNaut posted:Nooooo! What happened? Various things. Mostly having a kid and one income. It was in really good shape when I towed it to my parents 7 years ago. Dad said don't worry I have a tarp to keep it covered. I didn't do anything with it for about a year and a half, when I noticed the "tarp" wasn't a tarp. It was a above ground pool liner. Good old high humidity MS summers killed the inside and the engine bay. I pulled the tarp off, popped the hood, looked like someone had stuck a water hose under the hood and let the water flow for a year. Sold it for 200 dollars scrap cause I'm broke as hell right now (thanks 850 dollars a month health insurance) until the first of the month. Gotta eat, gotta have gas for a the 80 mile round trip to work. In the end it was for the best. For what it would cost to get in back in the shape it was in, I can get another one. Some day.
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# ? Jul 23, 2013 20:01 |
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# ? Jun 5, 2024 04:37 |
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Sushi The Kid posted:I didn't do anything with it for about a year and a half, when I noticed the "tarp" wasn't a tarp. It was a above ground pool liner. Good old high humidity MS summers killed the inside and the engine bay. Oh Yeah, that'll turn any car into a soggy rustbucket.
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# ? Jul 23, 2013 20:06 |