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Paul MaudDib posted:Portra 400 isn't a slide film, but who shoots anything other than 100 speed slide film anymore? Exactly, at one point there was a reason to shoot fast slide film that was capable of push processing well and then Kodak released Portra 400 and made obsolete all other fast color film (yes even slides).
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Jul 21, 2013 18:16
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gently caress my life. Just got three rolls of arista 400 back. All three are blank. Any idea what went wrong? All the rolls were shot with an ME Super that KEH rated EX. Edit: poo poo. I specifically asked the rep if they could do B&W, and he was all "yup". Look like they ran C-41 on the film.  I am so depressed right now.
Casu Marzu fucked around with this message at 22:25 on Jul 21, 2013 |
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Jul 21, 2013 22:01
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Casu Marzu posted:Edit: poo poo. I specifically asked the rep if they could do B&W, and he was all "yup". Look like they ran C-41 on the film. In that case, make them replace the film and refund you for the processing. Then learn to do your own B&W; it's easy.
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Jul 21, 2013 22:25
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Casu Marzu posted:gently caress my life. Just got three rolls of arista 400 back. All three are blank. Any idea what went wrong? All the rolls were shot with an ME Super that KEH rated EX. Where did you send it? I suggest you do some reading and get setup to develop your own B&W. It's super easy, cost effective after the first dozen or so rolls, and very hard to gently caress up.
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Jul 21, 2013 22:56
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Inf posted:Where did you send it? I suggest you do some reading and get setup to develop your own B&W. It's super easy, cost effective after the first dozen or so rolls, and very hard to gently caress up. I dropped it off at Walgreens, because the rep there confirmed twice that they did B&W processing. I learned my lesson. Gonna look into getting some B&W dev stuff this week.
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Jul 21, 2013 23:28
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I'll be in Japan in a couple of days and, with the good exchange rate right now, I will hit up the camera shops for some of that Fujifilm while I have the chance. The only bw process film I can find locally nowadays is HP5.
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Jul 21, 2013 23:33
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Casu Marzu posted:I dropped it off at Walgreens, because the rep there confirmed twice that they did B&W processing. Yeah, there's no way anyplace but a specialty photo lab does B&W anymore. C-41 is still done at drugstores and places like Wal-Mart because they just crank it through a minilab that pretty much anyone can operate. B&W is, as far as I know, only done by hand these days. There ARE some B&W films that process through C-41, i.e.: http://www.bhphotovideo.com/bnh/controller/home?O=&sku=316785&is=USA&Q=&A=details
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Jul 22, 2013 00:03
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If you have a choice get XP-2 Super. BW400CN is on an orange base, which can't ever be enlarged. There's no downside to a clear base for B+W.
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Jul 22, 2013 00:39
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You can develop XP-2 Super as either B&W or C41 and get good results, so basically they can't gently caress it up.
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Jul 22, 2013 00:42
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Eh, just gonna clear some room in my bathroom cupboard to keep b&w supplies around and develop everything myself. Any recommendations for brands of developer/stopper?
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Jul 22, 2013 00:49
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Paul MaudDib posted:If you have a choice get XP-2 Super. BW400CN is on an orange base, which can't ever be enlarged. There's no downside to a clear base for B+W. I've printed BW400CN in my darkroom before. I had to adjust the filters for VC paper to get it to look right, though.
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Jul 22, 2013 00:54
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Inf posted:B&W is, as far as I know, only done by hand these days. There are still a few places running B&W as dip-and-dunk, though most of them are down to two or three runs per week. I think McGreevy's is still doing them every day, but I could be wrong. Casu Marzu posted:Eh, just gonna clear some room in my bathroom cupboard to keep b&w supplies around and develop everything myself. Any recommendations for brands of developer/stopper? Developer: Rodinal (now Adonal) is traditional, but not everyone likes the look. HC110 is more neutral and seems to get good results with everything. Diafine gets a lot of love. Besides being nearly impossible to screw up, it has good grain characteristics and gives you a pretty solid speed boost on your film. You pay for it with a slight loss in contrast. The problem with Diafine is that you don't really have any control with it; with other developers you can adjust the look you get with a particular film by playing with time, temperature, or dilution; Diafine does what it wants and that's what you get. You can go really far down the rabbit hole of cult developers, trying to find something special, but I think everyone has done at least one of the three above. Stop: Most people just use a water rinse. A bottle of Kodak Indicator Stop will last you forever if you really feel you need it. Fixer: Use a non-hardening fixer. There's really very little need for hardening fixers anymore. I use Clayton's, but any rapid fix will work just fine.
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Jul 22, 2013 01:16
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Is there a pinhole thread?
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Jul 22, 2013 11:05
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Bobsledboy posted:Is there a pinhole thread? I think there used to be.
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Jul 22, 2013 11:09
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Am I interested in a Canon EOS Rebel G? My sister is offering it to me, but it looks like it's a mediocre film SLR. I doubt she has any nice glass for it. I've always used Nikon, so I don't know the Canon lineup at all.
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Jul 25, 2013 02:42
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Mr. Powers posted:Am I interested in a Canon EOS Rebel G? My sister is offering it to me, but it looks like it's a mediocre film SLR. I doubt she has any nice glass for it. I've always used Nikon, so I don't know the Canon lineup at all. How much is she asking? Cheap film camera is almost always > no film camera.
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Jul 25, 2013 03:53
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Dumb newbie questcion: what happens if I shoot 200 speed film in a camera (Leica III) which has dial that only goes to 100? I'm looking to do long exposure shots.
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Jul 25, 2013 08:48
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Watermelon City posted:Dumb newbie questcion: what happens if I shoot 200 speed film in a camera (Leica III) which has dial that only goes to 100? I'm looking to do long exposure shots. Nothing, the Leica III doesn't have a meter so that dial is a reminder only.
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Jul 25, 2013 10:00
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voodoorootbeer posted:How much is she asking? Cheap film camera is almost always > no film camera. $0. I have a Nikon FM + glass and a Zeiss Bullseye + amazing glass already. This would be my only modern film SLR.
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Jul 25, 2013 12:28
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8th-samurai posted:Nothing, the Leica III doesn't have a meter so that dial is a reminder only.
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Jul 26, 2013 02:05
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Lomography are at it again: http://www.kickstarter.com/projects/lomography/the-lomography-petzval-portrait-lens/description Now the want to charge $300+ for a Petzval lens for your Nikon F mount and Cannon EF mount cameras. I'm still ordering some lenses from surplus shed and making some large format lenses anyway.
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Jul 26, 2013 05:56
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Day 3 in Japan for me. I was on my way to a museum in Shinjuku when I stumbled into "Pentax Square". It's a small photo gallery, all shot on Pentax gear of course, and display models of everything in the Pentax lineup, including all the colors on the K and Q series. It seems you can order anything they sell at the store too. They had a few open box items for pretty cheap. I was a bit disappointed that only one outer window display is devoted to Pentax history, with some well loved Asahi Pentax SLR's to gaze upon. Afterwards I went to the legendary film cooler at Shinjuku Yodobashi Camera and picked up a few rolls of the recently discontinued B&W 135 film.   Film Cooler by RW Sinclair, on Flickr
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Jul 26, 2013 08:47
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That... is an impressive amount of film. I've been shooting Tri-X relatively frequently and I figure I should probably start developing the stuff at home instead of sending it out. What developers would you guys recommend for Tri-X? I typically shoot at box speed or push two stops. I hear Rodinal is good for for contrast and grain (which I'm a fan of), but I don't think anyone sells the stuff locally. Is D76 a good alternative, what kind of results should I expect from it?
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Jul 26, 2013 13:44
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HC-110
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Jul 26, 2013 14:47
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I recommend hunting down some Rodinal if you can. One bottle lasts a long time and pretty much never expires. Rodinal has a bunch of things going for it, what developer you want depends on which quality you're after. One-shot/disposable - HC110 is good, and can also be mixed as a reusable developer Works with everything - D76 Acutance-boosting - Really dilute HC110 Universal/"mystery roll" developing - Diafine
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Jul 26, 2013 16:10
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aliencowboy posted:That... is an impressive amount of film. I shoot mostly Tri-X and FP4 in 120 and use Rodinal for both. The grain can get a bit much if your pushing 35mm, but if you like grain give it a go. HC-110 + Tri-X is the classic combo though, so it's worth trying too. I have to buy my Rodinal from Freestyle as no one carries it locally and it can only be shipped ground, so that sucks.
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Jul 26, 2013 16:51
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It doesn't look like there's any cheap solution to getting Rodinal in Canada, so I guess I'll run with HC-110 and see how it goes. Thanks for the info.
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Jul 26, 2013 18:39
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aliencowboy posted:It doesn't look like there's any cheap solution to getting Rodinal in Canada, so I guess I'll run with HC-110 and see how it goes. Thanks for the info. For the record, Rodinal goes by Blazinal in Canada. I haven't bought any recently but I know a few places that at least used to carry it. Here's one place: http://www.filmplus.ca/film.html
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Jul 26, 2013 22:04
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Spedman posted:Lomography are at it again: God I didn't need to know about surplus shed, I've already have enough unfinished projects as it is, but this place is full to the brim of "Oh I could do something with that" stuff...
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Jul 26, 2013 22:59
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What can I apply to the DX coding on film canisters to remove conductivity? Nail polish?
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Jul 27, 2013 00:04
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Watermelon City posted:What can I apply to the DX coding on film canisters to remove conductivity? Nail polish? Yup.
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Jul 27, 2013 00:22
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Tape works well too, like masking tape or whatever.
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Jul 27, 2013 04:34
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Another Rodinal question: it sounds like Rodinal gives no fucks as to how much you push the film or what kind of film it is so if I throw a mixed batch of films at different exposures in a tank and let it sit for a few hours, it'll be good to go?
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Jul 27, 2013 04:39
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HPL posted:Another Rodinal question: it sounds like Rodinal gives no fucks as to how much you push the film or what kind of film it is so if I throw a mixed batch of films at different exposures in a tank and let it sit for a few hours, it'll be good to go? Yeah, if you're doing stand development you can just mix films. If you're doing a big push, like 3+ stops you may want to add more time though. The negatives come out flat, but it's usually not too much trouble to add contrast. Rodinal stand is a good way to develop mystery film as well.
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Jul 27, 2013 05:55
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HPL posted:Another Rodinal question: it sounds like Rodinal gives no fucks as to how much you push the film or what kind of film it is so if I throw a mixed batch of films at different exposures in a tank and let it sit for a few hours, it'll be good to go? My usual mystery formula is 1:100 for 1h. If I know I'm going to push 1 stop, I do it for 1:30, 2 stops is 2h. Rodinal 1:100 for 1h pretty much develops any film at normal speed.
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Jul 27, 2013 07:28
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Good to hear. I am super behind on film developing and I need something where I can do things in big batches instead of one roll with one recipe and two rolls with another etc etc. So if I go at, say, 1:100 and leave it for 3 hours, that should cover my bases?
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Jul 27, 2013 09:40
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No, if you're shooting box speed, then 1hr, but if you're pushing anything then do them separately for the times like Paul MaudDib posted.
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Jul 27, 2013 13:18
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3 hours is a very strong push.
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Jul 27, 2013 13:28
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HPL posted:Tape works well too, like masking tape or whatever.
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Jul 27, 2013 13:34
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Paul MaudDib posted:My usual mystery formula is 1:100 for 1h. If I know I'm going to push 1 stop, I do it for 1:30, 2 stops is 2h. You do any kind of movement/mixing when standing or just the small bit at the beginning to get air bubbles out?
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Jul 27, 2013 18:15
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