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Are any of the rims much warmer than the others after you get off the highway? If one of them is then that's the stuck caliper, or bad wheel bearing. I don't really see how the steering rack itself could cause the car to drift. I mean, it's possible, but it'd be unusual. Bad wheel balance can cause it too. That's probably the first thing I'd get done if no corner is particularly warm, especially if their current balance status is unknown.
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Jul 23, 2013 18:44
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Korwen posted:Issues I'm just curious here but they checked the tie-rods and control arms when you aligned it, right? craig588 has some good suggestions with checking the rim heat, you could also try rotating the rims too since that's free and can tell you immediately if that's an issue. Truth be told I'd honestly be surprised if it is the steering rack but it's always a possibility. How'd the problem develop? How long have you had this issue? Did something lead to this issue (like flying into a parking spot too fast and hitting a tire on the curb)?
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Jul 24, 2013 04:01
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Above, Are your tires the same size and condition? An out of balance tire usually causes wobble not pulling. Check the rear brakes also it might not even be the front pulling you. Got my Sensen shocks yesterday. They came in a printed box and everything, color box! The even cross reference the other oem brand replacement shocks that fit a miata on a sticker. They seem fine I will let you know how long it takes before they fall apart. I assume they are just repainted monroes stolen from the warehouse. They did have a Sensen holgraphic sticker attached telling me they were legit Sensen shocks though.
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Jul 24, 2013 14:31
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Got a line on a trunk kind to replace my rusty one, at a relatively inexpensive cost. It doesn't have the OEM spoiler on it, which mine has. Am I wrong in thinking I can just remove the spoiler from my rusty trunk lid and reinstall on the non- rusty trunk lid by drilling a few holes & using double sided automotive trim adhesive? I really do prefer the look with the OEM spoiler.
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Jul 24, 2013 16:27
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It's not hard to install a spoiler, just measure like 10 times to make sure you didn't muck up the placement. It really is just drilling holes. Just make sure those holes are in the right spot. Make sure to get some paint on the bare metal after drilling or you'll get rust in there.
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Jul 24, 2013 16:35
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Excellent, that's what I figured. I have a touch up pen that I'll use on any bare spots post - drilling. I am probably far more excited than I should be about the possibility of a non-rusty trunk lid.
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Jul 24, 2013 16:45
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Tanz-Kommandant posted:I'm just curious here but they checked the tie-rods and control arms when you aligned it, right? craig588 has some good suggestions with checking the rim heat, you could also try rotating the rims too since that's free and can tell you immediately if that's an issue. Truth be told I'd honestly be surprised if it is the steering rack but it's always a possibility. Thanks for the help guys, I do appreciate it. I did the highly scientific "Put finger on wheels after driving" test and my rear wheels were warmer than the fronts. I will investigate this further. The car has had the problem as long as I've owned it, so, almost a year. I have no idea what led to the issue, buying it as far as I know. I'll pull the wheels off this weekend, clean up the brakes and look for any oddities. I read somewhere that I can measure from point to point of the suspension components on either side to look for bent pieces, so I may have a go at that while I have it up.
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Jul 24, 2013 19:00
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Korwen posted:I did the highly scientific "Put finger on wheels after driving" test and my rear wheels were warmer than the fronts. That's unusual, I'm changing my vote to partially stuck parking brake. I think the front wheels should be slightly warmer than the rears in pretty much every situation, they do most of the braking and get the most of the heat.
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Jul 24, 2013 21:46
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Cheapest and most AI way to get a MSM: http://clubroadster.net/vb_forum/28-sale-trade/106514-complete-mazdaspeed-miata-swap.html and a Texas/Arizona/OtherDesert tub. Some of you people in the states should do this FuzzKill style.
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Jul 24, 2013 22:39
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F- You miata long bolt why won't you break loose! Getting a longer wrench tonight. If you won't put out there is always the ball joint.
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Jul 25, 2013 20:50
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Elephanthead posted:F- You miata long bolt why won't you break loose! Getting a longer wrench tonight. If you won't put out there is always the ball joint. Taking the balljoint tongue out, two 17 bolts, is a lot easier and it's supposed to keep the alignment ok.
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Jul 25, 2013 21:36
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Korwen posted:My 1996 Miata pulls hard to the left. By hard I mean if I take my hands off the steering wheel at 40mph, the car will completely change lanes in under 4 seconds roughly. It is present at any speed, and if I reverse the car the steering wheel will turn in the other direction. It makes the car fairly fatiguing to drive with it constantly trying to dive towards oncoming traffic, and I am finally ready to try to troubleshoot it.
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Jul 25, 2013 23:14
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craig588 posted:That's unusual, I'm changing my vote to partially stuck parking brake. I think the front wheels should be slightly warmer than the rears in pretty much every situation, they do most of the braking and get the most of the heat. My Integra actually has this same issue right now, I'm going to agree with craig and say check the parking brake. Edit for context: My parking brake is the issue in my Integra because they have an integrated parking brake valve on the rear calipers (dunno if a NA is the same) and mine are frozen after sitting for 6+ months, I freed up the calipers and they work for stopping, sorta, but I need to get new ones now. Tanz-Kommandant fucked around with this message at 00:39 on Jul 26, 2013 |
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Jul 26, 2013 00:36
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Get a laser thermometer, they come in handy for lots of poo poo, especially automotive. If the rear wheels are heating up take the rear calipers apart, clean all the old poo poo off and lube up the pins good, put on new hardware/boots and see what happens. If they still seize up it's new caliper time. Probably one of the most common Miata issues.
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Jul 26, 2013 02:21
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 10psi feels great. Hitting overboost protection at 180kpa because you haven't tuned closed loop EBC is analogous to cockblocking yourself. Having overboost protection because you haven't installed your 949racing clutch yet is QQ
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Jul 26, 2013 02:27
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poo poo gently caress, looks like I might be a Miata owner soon 
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Jul 26, 2013 02:36
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The following issue has started to develop with my top (which was supposedly pretty new-ish according to the previous owner):  Is that fixable or should I start looking for new tops?
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Jul 26, 2013 02:49
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dpidz0r posted:The following issue has started to develop with my top (which was supposedly pretty new-ish according to the previous owner): Gorilla tape.
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Jul 26, 2013 03:41
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Tape it for now and start looking for a top. http://topsonline.com/
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Jul 26, 2013 03:57
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Finally got tired of looking at things like and sent my deposit into ARTech last week. 3" stainless steel catback here we come. I'll post pics when it gets here in September. I feel like I'm commissioning a piece of art, not a car part.
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Jul 26, 2013 04:22
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saint gerald posted:
Out curiosity, how much did that run you? I'd like to have him build me a T25 bottom mount manifold, downpipe, and 3" exhaust but it probably won't be for another year.
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Jul 26, 2013 13:00
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Konrad posted:Out curiosity, how much did that run you? About $500 for the exhaust. He's making me a 3" test pipe too, so with shipping I should be a touch over $600 all in. He mentioned to me he was thinking of raising his prices given the backlog he's running, so if you're thinking long-term it might be a little more.
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Jul 26, 2013 13:39
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Long bolt method is awesome. Shock just falls out. PB blaster and an 8 buck Taiwanese NAPA wrench did the trick. One down 3 to go.
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Jul 26, 2013 13:52
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saint gerald posted:About $500 for the exhaust. He's making me a 3" test pipe too, so with shipping I should be a touch over $600 all in. He mentioned to me he was thinking of raising his prices given the backlog he's running, so if you're thinking long-term it might be a little more. Hmmm... It might be worth looking into making my own.
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Jul 26, 2013 14:36
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I really wish headers for a miata didnt cost more than a cat-back. I'm used to the small-block-chevy world where i can get headers for $25 each.  (Got used pacesetter longtubes for $50 used)
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Jul 26, 2013 14:39
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MattD1zzl3 posted:I really wish headers for a miata didnt cost more than a cat-back. I'm used to the small-block-chevy world where i can get headers for $25 each. I think you know the solution, V8 swap.
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Jul 26, 2013 14:47
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Konrad posted:Hmmm... It might be worth looking into making my own. I'd do that if I had the skills and the tools. I spent some time looking into alternatives (Enthuza, FM etc.) but Abe is priced about on par or a little cheaper than those, and he does such beautiful work. With any luck I can offset the cost by selling my Racing Beat catback, it's still in good shape.
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Jul 26, 2013 15:05
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saint gerald posted:I'd do that if I had the skills and the tools. I spent some time looking into alternatives (Enthuza, FM etc.) but Abe is priced about on par or a little cheaper than those, and he does such beautiful work. Yeah, I'd go FM but I really like the idea of a bottom mount for heat-management reasons and I don't have power steering or AC. I didn't really know how to paint a car but I managed to do a passable job on my Miata. Since I plan on teaching myself to solder and build a MSDIYPNP, the home-built hot parts kind of go along with my "built, not bought" theme. The end result might not be as good, but there's a different kind of satisfaction from it.
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Jul 26, 2013 15:33
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Konrad posted:Yeah, I'd go FM but I really like the idea of a bottom mount for heat-management reasons and I don't have power steering or AC. I went FM for the manifold and downpipe. And the clutch and flywheel. And a few other bits and pieces. They really do make excellent stuff, and their service is first-rate. You'll have an easier time of it with no AC, the compressor really gets in the way. Oddly, the only place I really had clearance issues is squeezing the BOV in between the radiator fan and the front of the engine. It's proper tight in there. quote:I didn't really know how to paint a car but I managed to do a passable job on my Miata. Since I plan on teaching myself to solder and build a MSDIYPNP, the home-built hot parts kind of go along with my "built, not bought" theme. The end result might not be as good, but there's a different kind of satisfaction from it. This project also taught me to paint and DIYPNP. I'm done learning for now.  I had enough headscratching with bits of pipe putting together the intake plumbing.
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Jul 26, 2013 16:07
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Miata owners are the best. Today I was checking out a Craigslist ad for a set of BF Goodrich R-comps in 205 on steel wheels from a 91. I'm running 185s and was about ready to post in this thread saying "hey, will these fit?" when I had a sudden thought. A few months back an autocrossing friend of mine said to me "hey, you should friend this guy on Facebook, he's seriously fast and a great guy." So I did, and kept half an eye on his Miata-related posts. He's helped me out in the past with a few odds and ends, sent me a copy of his spark table (along with a message saying DO NOT RUN THIS WHATEVER YOU DO...it was pretty aggressive). So I shot him a message and say, hey, are these good and will they fit? A few minutes later he messages me back saying "I'm driving, call me" and his number. Long story short, he spent about 20 minutes brain dumping on Miata tire selection, suspension geometry, ride height, alignments etc. while I desperately scribbled notes trying to keep up. Such a nice guy. He was on his way through Ohio for some big Solo event in Toledo, I believe. Gonna snag those tires, I hope, and I think there are some nights with a tape measure, a level, and a glass of wine in my immediate future. When I bought that car, I was expecting to get nothing but gay jokes and abuse; I live in redneck central. But I've met a bunch of great guys, and gathered nothing but of positive comments (and lots of those) from folks on the street. My Miata's not even a very clean example. It's a happy car, and it seems to attract happy people.
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Jul 27, 2013 05:16
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How do I test that the crank and cam position sensors are sending a signal? I'm not getting a spark on my 99. The voltage (both blk/red and brn wires) and ground to the coil pack are fine and I just replaced the coil pack, so that's not the problem. Both of those sensors are getting power, but I'm at a loss as to how to determine if they are sending signals without compromising the wires. Edit: the only equipment I have is a cheap multimeter.
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Jul 27, 2013 23:48
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Alright, I made a little wiring harness that I could use to test each connection. I think I found the problem: is the grey/red wire to the crank position sensor supposed to be hot when the key to the on position? Both, the red/white and the red/grey are hot, 12v and 5v respectively. I think I botched the ECU rewiring.
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Jul 28, 2013 01:20
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Day one sensen shocks, seem good. Worth the money. Dampen fine. Install was easy.
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Jul 28, 2013 02:40
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I can't get the rubber weather strips on the top to stay on for the life of me. Do they need to be glued or should they just friction-fit on the metal plates? I feel I'm missing something really obvious and probably should have paid more attention when I pulled them off. 
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Jul 28, 2013 17:57
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There are some grooves that the rubber has to be pressed down into, IIRC.
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Jul 28, 2013 22:55
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I usually get the outside groove in by hand first, then use a dull flathead screwdriver to push in the inside groove of the seal, you can feel it "snap" into place when you get it right. It's kinda hard to get them in good just by hand alone.
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Jul 29, 2013 01:20
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They're pressed on now but still a bit loose. I'll try the screwdriver method tomorrow evening. Just to confirm: I have the slotted taller flanges on the interior side of the top, this is the correct orientation, right? I realized after taking it all apart I didn't pay attention to which way the plates went and it very well could be backwards but the screw indentations in the rubber are lining up.
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Jul 29, 2013 06:01
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My Miata just failed a safety inspection because a seat belt is frayed on it. I picked up a used seat belt pretty cheap. I also have a Hard Dog rollbar in the car. gently caress everything. edit: Looks like I'll have plenty of time to inspect the rear calipers however. Also VitaminJ, tire pressures were checked running 28 all around.
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Jul 30, 2013 20:10
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You could get some cheap expired 4 point harness in the car to pass tech until you get a better belt. Assuming this is for autocross.
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Jul 30, 2013 20:27
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Nah this is for an inspection sticker, not tech for a track day or autocross. I've gotta get this one sorted. I thought about putting a harness in there, but it's more expensive and gently caress having harnesses in a DD.
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Jul 30, 2013 20:54
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