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So I took a few days off working on my project cause I was getting burnt out but last night I got back into it and painted all the final details on it and started the little murals up top of the tardis umbrella you would never know to look for if you didn't know to look. Here is the first one. Tardis and the Enterprise
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Jul 28, 2013 15:13
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Hey guys is anyone here experienced with body paint. I ran a test of my Maya arm and makeup and it went well, but I have some wear problems. I used paint from Mehron and sprayed fixure over the arm. It made my arm really sticky and the paint started to rub off on my upper shoulder. Any have any advice for working with body paint?  I am the worst at selfies Also I'm so close to finishing the shield  
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Jul 28, 2013 21:53
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At least one of my friends has given up on body paint entirely, and is using acrylic paint now. It's nontoxic and pretty easy to remove with warm soapy water and mineral oil. But someone else may have a better product recommendation that's actually meant for skin.
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Jul 29, 2013 03:38
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RazorBunny posted:At least one of my friends has given up on body paint entirely, and is using acrylic paint now. It's nontoxic and pretty easy to remove with warm soapy water and mineral oil. Latex body paint works really well, you can even paint a "primer" coat which allows it to be peeled off the skin without hurting. http://www.liquidlatex.com/liquidlatex.html edit: sunday planning! 
duros fucked around with this message at 08:39 on Jul 29, 2013 |
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Jul 29, 2013 04:08
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NorseDanceParty posted:Hey guys is anyone here experienced with body paint. I ran a test of my Maya arm and makeup and it went well, but I have some wear problems. I used paint from Mehron and sprayed fixure over the arm. It made my arm really sticky and the paint started to rub off on my upper shoulder. Any have any advice for working with body paint? This might be bad advice, but honestly I've had good luck with Sharpies or other markers. Most paints come off really easily, but markers have alot more staying power. I did a Spider Jerusalem a few years ago, but I will admit that having that much sharpie on me at once did give me a slight buzz, so... use caution, I guess?
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Jul 29, 2013 15:13
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McKilligan posted:This might be bad advice, but honestly I've had good luck with Sharpies or other markers. Most paints come off really easily, but markers have alot more staying power. I did a Spider Jerusalem a few years ago, but I will admit that having that much sharpie on me at once did give me a slight buzz, so... use caution, I guess? You're right, this is terrible advice! Sharpies contain some pretty strong chemical solvents... but no pain, no gain! Right...? Right...? 
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Jul 29, 2013 17:55
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Red Robin Hood posted:You're right, this is terrible advice! Beyond the chemicals I have had issues with it rubbing off on light colored fabrics. In my earlier days before pax paint and krylon I used sharpies for emblems, marks, tattoos, and the like. I much prefer pax or latex mixes for stuff like this it will take a little longer to dry but lasts much better.
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Jul 29, 2013 18:53
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Won't sharpie be stuck to you for ages, as well? Or at least for several days of scrubbing. Most people can't exactly go to work with their Kratos makeup in full effect.
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Jul 29, 2013 18:57
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I don't have much experience with body paint but oh goodness, please do not cover yourself in Sharpie. 
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Jul 29, 2013 19:53
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 I didn't even think about latex body paint as an option. It's great stuff. I'm terribly allergic to latex so I tend to just ignore it as a solution.
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Jul 29, 2013 21:05
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Does anyone know a good alternative to bondo that can dry inside my house without asphyxiating me to death? I have something I want to make with bondo but for 9 months out of the year it's too cold to do it outside (as in it won't set right under 65 degrees or whatever, not that I'm too sensetive to actually do it). As for the body painting thing, could you paint on a shirt made from sheer stocking material? I'm pretty sure I've seen a bunch of Jacks from Mass Effect do it that way.
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Jul 29, 2013 23:51
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Ruin Completely posted:Does anyone know a good alternative to bondo that can dry inside my house without asphyxiating me to death? I have something I want to make with bondo but for 9 months out of the year it's too cold to do it outside (as in it won't set right under 65 degrees or whatever, not that I'm too sensetive to actually do it). I have heard really good things about using wood filler for a no smell approach.
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Jul 30, 2013 02:12
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I'm planning out how to build a prop sword for a friend and I have a question. I've carved a large prop out of polystyrene (the pink board kind) before and know that applying fiberglass resin/cloth directly to the foam may cause it to melt a little. At the time I tried painting on a couple of coats of white primer on it to minimize damage and it worked okay in some spots, less so in others. The fiberglass cloth also bubbled up in some spots, which had to be cut out with a Dremel thus leading to a lot of time-consuming Bondo work that resulted in a very heavy prop. This time around, I'm looking at some other tutorials and some recommend using plain 'ol white PVA glue instead of primer on the polystyrene as that may make a better seal. I'm wondering if I can solve both the polystyrene melting and fiberglass cloth bubbling problems this way: slap on a few coats of PVA glue, let them dry, then do an additional coat onto which I'll apply the fiberglass cloth to hold it in place, let that dry, then do fiberglass resin as normal. Any thoughts? Also, while I realize that the cloth is what makes a prop really durable when using resin, how durable would a prop be if it just had a few carefully-applied coats of resin? Some of the detailed areas for the prop in question would be a nightmare to apply the cloth (and that's assuming nothing bubbles up), but I'm wondering if simply going at it with resin would suffice.
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Jul 30, 2013 02:47
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Ruin Completely posted:Does anyone know a good alternative to bondo that can dry inside my house without asphyxiating me to death? I have something I want to make with bondo but for 9 months out of the year it's too cold to do it outside (as in it won't set right under 65 degrees or whatever, not that I'm too sensetive to actually do it). Last winter, I mixed the bondo outdoors in the cold and smoothed it out there too (which also gives you a ton of working time!) and brought it inside to cure. It's still stinky but the smell goes away much faster and is much weaker if you leave the can of uncured poo poo outdoors.
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Jul 30, 2013 03:02
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So I ordered a nice quality top hat online and had it delivered to my house. UPS or someone kicked the crap out of this box. The hat came out all wrinkled. Upset me something awful. Now I got about a week or so before the con and I was wondering if there was a way to "iron" the wrinkles out of a top hat as I don't have time to send it back.
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Jul 30, 2013 03:03
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duros posted:I have heard really good things about using wood filler for a no smell approach. That seems like it would be useful as hell for working on smaller/smoother things, but I need more the thickness/build up-ability of bondo for what I'm doing. McPantserton posted:Last winter, I mixed the bondo outdoors in the cold and smoothed it out there too (which also gives you a ton of working time!) and brought it inside to cure. It's still stinky but the smell goes away much faster and is much weaker if you leave the can of uncured poo poo outdoors. Thanks, I was hoping there was a way to get away with it. I don't mind if it smells, as long as I"m not inhaling unhealthy amounts of stuff.
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Jul 30, 2013 03:22
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Ruin Completely posted:Thanks, I was hoping there was a way to get away with it. I don't mind if it smells, as long as I"m not inhaling unhealthy amounts of stuff. The fumes aren't supposed to be dangerous as per the can's instructions but yeah, I try to avoid that poo poo as much as possible anyway. But I ended up kind of liking being able to work the surface for long amounts out in the cold so I'll probably intentionally do some fine detail in bondo over the winter this year! I use old crappy Magic cards to smooth it off, they work really well for getting a good even surface and it's so freaking awesome to throw them away once they're all crusty. Throb Robinson posted:So I ordered a nice quality top hat online and had it delivered to my house. UPS or someone kicked the crap out of this box. The hat came out all wrinkled. Upset me something awful. Now I got about a week or so before the con and I was wondering if there was a way to "iron" the wrinkles out of a top hat as I don't have time to send it back. Also, foot!  We have ~2 weeks to wrap these up and I'm feeling pretty good about the project! 
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Jul 30, 2013 03:32
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shoelace posted:I don't have much experience with body paint but oh goodness, please do not cover yourself in Sharpie. Thanks for the advice guys I'll look up how to use acrylic and liquid latex. Don't worry I'm not going to cover myself in sharpie.
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Jul 30, 2013 03:35
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   Made some more progress - I was stuck for a long time trying to figure out how the hell to make a neck, and there's still going to be a lot of refinement, but drat am I happy with how it's turning out so far. Eventually I'll be running some black elastic fabric from the chin to the top of the neck eventually, which is what's covering the back of my neck at the moment as well. All in all, looking pretty drat good. Does anyone have any good recommendations for places I can order white contacts from?
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Jul 30, 2013 13:46
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Does anyone have a quick, cheap solution for adding slightly cartoonish rivets to a costume? I found this on Instructables: http://www.instructables.com/id/Quick-and-dirty-costume-rivets/ But I'm sure that in the past I've bought similar looking sticky bumps that weren't googly eyes (and therefore slightly cheaper/possibly the correct colour with no need to paint). I can't for the life of me think what to type into Google to find them though. [EDIT] PANIC OVER, found these: http://www.amazon.co.uk/Adhesive-Dr...furniture+bumps Captain Hilarious fucked around with this message at 09:30 on Jul 31, 2013 |
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Jul 31, 2013 09:26
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McKilligan posted:
Looks really great I really like the spine detail in the back how is it attached? I order all my costact lenses from candylens http://www.candylens.com/ a korean website. I really like them since they offer the contacts with prescription (not as many as I would like though). They don't give tracking number and it takes about a month to arrive but I have never had a problem. Also note these are circle lenses so they make your eyes seem big.
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Jul 31, 2013 10:01
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Captain Hilarious posted:Does anyone have a quick, cheap solution for adding slightly cartoonish rivets to a costume? You could also get some plastic eyes, they come in various sizes and colors depending on what you need and would probably be cheaper in bulk if you need a lot.
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Jul 31, 2013 10:32
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Faltion posted:You could also get some plastic eyes, they come in various sizes and colors depending on what you need and would probably be cheaper in bulk if you need a lot. Yeah it turns out ordering a bunch of googly eyes was actually the cheapest option overall. Thanks for the tip.
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Jul 31, 2013 10:50
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NorseDanceParty posted:Looks really great I really like the spine detail in the back how is it attached? If you look at the second picture, you can see the two pointy shapes - there's velcro under there, the neck part wraps around and connects on the front right side. The chin piece is separate, and connect to the jaw-pointy things on either side with velcro too, though I did just attach the jaw to the neck via black spandex. Hot glue is pretty much my bread and butter with this project - it's pretty sturdy, but the real durability comes from the Polyurethane resin that I apply afterwards. Applying the stuff is a huge bitch though - I have to work in very small batches, because I've got less than a minute to apply it before it begins to set. If I put it on too thick, or after that first minute, it bubbles up and has to be sanded down. Doing the neck portion and keeping the vertebrae separate is going to be a nightmare. I'll give candylens a look - since I'm IN Korea at the moment, the shipping time might not take so long! Here's hoping.
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Jul 31, 2013 11:20
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Captain Hilarious posted:Does anyone have a quick, cheap solution for adding slightly cartoonish rivets to a costume? I picked up stud embellishments at my local craft/fabric store for my sets of Discworld armor. Sorta like these: http://www.dharmatrading.com/html/eng/5420682-AA.shtml?lnav=tools.html - It was ~$4 for a little pack of 75-100, so not so bad. A little hot glue and you're in business. McKilligan posted:
I'm in the homestretch for version 2 of the Daft Punk helmets. I'm pretty excited, but already planning version 3. Jeez. I'll put a bunch of pictures together when I'm all finished, but these are my favourite pieces of the bunch so far: 
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Jul 31, 2013 22:18
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A while ago in this thread I asked if this is the place to share historic/reenactment clothes as well (it is) so here's some stuff. A 1770s-1780s gown, I have "making of" photos and instructions. It's made of printed cotton, worn over . . . well, a LOT of undergarments. And still did not get quite the effect I wanted. A friend did my hair.  A small picture of something without the right undergarments! 1820s-30s, playing with stripes. It needs something to puff up the full sleeves and a shaped petticoat to make the (too-long) skirt stand out.  Also a link to [url=http://www.virtue.to/articles/the site that started it all[/url]. Simple medieval-type stuff that might come in handy for others.
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Aug 1, 2013 00:08
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PezMaster posted:I picked up stud embellishments at my local craft/fabric store for my sets of Discworld armor. Sorta like these: http://www.dharmatrading.com/html/eng/5420682-AA.shtml?lnav=tools.html - It was ~$4 for a little pack of 75-100, so not so bad. A little hot glue and you're in business. More pictures! what are you planning for v3?
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Aug 1, 2013 01:50
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trickybiscuits posted:A while ago in this thread I asked if this is the place to share historic/reenactment clothes as well (it is) so here's some stuff. duros posted:More pictures! what are you planning for v3?  Here's my first every vacuum pulled visor. I tried RIT, but I must have done something horribly horribly wrong, because it warped the first test visor I tried it with. I went with Nightshade on the final one, which worked out just fine. In fact, it worked even better, since the RIT completely cancelled out the blue LED. And speaking of lights:  Yay! Everything should be done for Sunday, but, like I said before, I'm itchy about redoing the whole thing already. Resanding, repainting Guy Manuel, adding lights and details to the side, etc. I would love to add the red LED array on the front of Thomas, but that might be version 4. Or so.
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Aug 1, 2013 03:28
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Showed a coworker the helmets and he thought it would be cool if you could do voice to text on the display! Get started! 
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Aug 1, 2013 04:14
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Update on my Girl Stinky costume! (Character: http://samandmax.wikia.com/wiki/Girl_Stinky) I have a tee shirt and pants, I'm still a little amazed that I found purple stretch pants. Crown and bracelets:   Necklace and earrings:  Apron (this was one of two pieces that scared me the most...there's just SO many ways I could muck it up and have to start over):  Finished apron, in which I cleverly made the fish tail part into a pocket: 
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Aug 1, 2013 04:37
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PezMaster posted:
SHITTTTTTT son that is really well done! Come to pax with it and lets be daft punk :P Now I for sure have to step up my game and go all in for the Guy helmet.
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Aug 1, 2013 04:57
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So I've been working on a Thor set up, I had a decent one for Halloween last year as practice(my first real effort costume). I'm now addicted to learning how to make fun LED circuits and plan on doing a Thor with a light show! Those Daft Punk helmets make me jealous, I'll get there eventually!   That is a wooden core that goes inside the handle, I'm going to cover the lights with a "prismatic paper" to spread the light around.  The gashes will fall between the leather strips, I had a tracing paper pattern when I cut it. I was curious what the best way to fill the gashes after I paint the handle silver, and have the lights in place. I was thinking epoxy resin, but I'm not sure how to keep it in form with the handle. It needs to be clear so the light can shine through.
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Aug 1, 2013 06:58
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Looking forward to PAX Prime again this year! My cosplay results from last year (I'm the one on the left) 
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Aug 1, 2013 07:42
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Long time lurker here, but since I saw the other Who items I wanted to post my TARDIS gown progress. Progress largely in thanks to ThizzFaceKilla, who rocks at the random rear end things I throw at her!  Almost done, want to add some bling to it and maybe modify the *(&%^&* windows a bit.
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Aug 1, 2013 18:58
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PIUGoddess posted:Long time lurker here, but since I saw the other Who items I wanted to post my TARDIS gown progress. Progress largely in thanks to ThizzFaceKilla, who rocks at the random rear end things I throw at her! Cuuuuuuuute! Love that "interior" panel. Can you manage a kind of curtseying pose for pictures as you hold it open because I think that'd be great. How long did it take to paint all that?
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Aug 1, 2013 20:22
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Captain Hilarious posted:Does anyone have a quick, cheap solution for adding slightly cartoonish rivets to a costume? Earlier this year I made a shield out of insulation foam board, so I used brass thumbtacks from a picture mounting kit I already owned as rivets. I added a drop of superglue under each one before pushing it in completely so they wouldn't get loose and fall out over time. I love crafting so I use googly eyes a lot but I'd be concerned with my prop making a subtle rattling sound with plastic eyes rolling around under the paint. 
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Aug 1, 2013 23:38
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That looks great! Is it an original design or from another series? Well after much stress over painting both helmet and buster arm, my Protoman costume is finally together and ready for GenCon! (Thumbnailed due to size):    Overall I'm pretty happy with the results. I still need my scarf (partially to hide my hair though otherwise it's all together. The one thing I am slightly worried about is overheating while in the costume. Taking the photos I only had it on for bout 10 minutes but I immediatly began to sweat once I had it on. Are there any good methods of cooling your costume it prolong wear time?
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Aug 2, 2013 02:19
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LeviathanGunship posted:That looks great! Is it an original design or from another series? In Stormtrooper armor we wear Under Armor type full body suits that help wick up the sweat and actually keep me rather cool. Inside the helmet we use battery powered fans. Depends on how much room you have in that helmet but I imagine you could pull some padding out and rig something up relatively cheap.
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Aug 2, 2013 03:08
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LeviathanGunship posted:That looks great! Is it an original design or from another series? For our marines, I'm planning on putting an ice pack on my body somewhere in there. Otherwise in past costumes I've just been hot as gently caress. Also, we should try and fistbump at GenCon! Look for the giant marine squad. Which, on a related note! OUR VAC FORMER IS DONE!! And it works! We did our first pull tonight and holy poo poo. Holy poo poo, guys. Our biggest problem is that we might not have built our blanks sturdily enough to withstand the awesome power of the vacformer. But we're going to make it work and it is going to be so awesome. I am so freaking psyched right now.
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Aug 2, 2013 04:11
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PIUGoddess posted:Long time lurker here, but since I saw the other Who items I wanted to post my TARDIS gown progress. Progress largely in thanks to ThizzFaceKilla, who rocks at the random rear end things I throw at her! We are doing the same thing with my girlfriends Tardis Umbrella. She will have the interior on a curtain behind her. Here is my progress. Finally finished off all the art and glossed it. Looks good I think.  Umbrella The art on top of the Umbrella no one will ever see  Eygpt  Star Trek  Van gogh  Alice in wonderland  Hawaii the girlfriend is from there  Big Ben
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Aug 2, 2013 04:11
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