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Godholio posted:I can't remember the specifics, but there are a couple of different sizes. I thought it was only older (early 327s and prior) that were different, though. I can't even remember where I read about it to go back and check. The earlier motors had press-on balancers, but this is a large-journal motor. The bolt I tried was a 7/16, and it was in a motor made within a few years of this one. Looks like a trip to the machine shop is in my future.
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Jul 30, 2013 19:35
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porkfriedrice posted:Any of you guys use Speed Bleeders? I'm going to be replacing my rear calipers and wanted to have a way to bleed the brakes myself. I already bought them, but just wanted to see if anyone else uses them and if they had a good experience or not. The only bad thing I've found around the web is that some people have had fluid loss, but that seems to be from the thread sealant wearing off from opening the bleeder too many times. Since I don't plan on opening them other than to do this repair, it seems I shouldn't have any issues. I had a set on one of my old cars, worked fine in my experience. Personally though I'd recommend just getting a pressure or vacuum bleeder, it's still a one-person job that way, and you can clear old fluid out of your lines and get better braking at the same time.
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Jul 30, 2013 21:30
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Soup in a Bag posted:A friend of mine just moved to Los Angeles and is needing to buy a used car for commuting, probably a Camry or something practical like that. He's not much of a car guy. Can anybody recommend a good place to go for a pre-purchase inspection? He's around Culver City and doesn't know anybody out there yet. If he doesn't have much money I wouldn't take it to an inspection, just google things to look for (or YouTube) when checking out a used car. An inspection might cost $200 and on a cheap used car that might be 1/6th of the cost of the vehicle, and cheap cars are going to have issues anyways.
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Jul 30, 2013 21:33
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Centripetal Horse posted:My car did something bizarre, yesterday. The car in question is a 2004 Pontiac Grand Prix GT, 3800 V6. Clean your MAF sensor. I had this same poo poo happen with a 2001 olds 98 and a 1988 delta 88, all with variations of the awesome 3800. Both times the airflow sensor needed cleaning and it would kill the car dead at random times. If it happens again and strands you, try unplugging the sensor. The car will throw a light at you and have no power, but it will start reliably and get you home.
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Jul 31, 2013 01:32
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I'm looking to get some screws for a recently acquired '94 Toyota Pickup. I was able to download the service manuals, and have a screenshot of what screws they say are required, but I'm having one hell of a time finding them online. I went to the local hardware store and the guy who helped me gave me the closest ones he could find, but none of them fit, so I'm looking to find the exact matches online. Can anyone help me narrow these down? I realized the diameter/length were in the metric system (inches in parenthetical), but there is nothing in the manual about the thread pitch, hoping someone here knows where I can find these. Also I'm not very technical/mechanical if you couldn't tell. I am looking for 5 of E and 2 of B. I really don't need 100ct or anything like that. Anyone know where I can get these?
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Jul 31, 2013 01:33
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I experience a sort of residual bounce/shake from the rear of my 2012 F150 whenever I go over a moderate to severe bump, especially if both rear wheels go over at the same time. Is this normal or something I should look into?
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Jul 31, 2013 04:15
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N is for Nipples posted:I experience a sort of residual bounce/shake from the rear of my 2012 F150 whenever I go over a moderate to severe bump, especially if both rear wheels go over at the same time. Is this normal or something I should look into? Is it a short bed? If so, that's even more likely. But even more importantly, is this your first pickup? Or the first one that's not falling apart around itself? Because they dont' drive the same as a car. What I'm getting at is if you know what a presumably unloaded pickup should feel like and this doesn't you should use your warranty. If you don't know what it should feel like it may be just about right.....drop 500 lbs in the back over or after the rear axle and see if that calms it down. If so, it's fine. The smaller/shorter they are the worse they behave. My Ranger used to feel like the back end jumped out 45 degrees (total over exaggeration) going over railroad tracks at speed when unloaded. And that was after driving full sized pickups for years before buying it. Motronic fucked around with this message at 04:32 on Jul 31, 2013 |
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Jul 31, 2013 04:29
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BrokenDynasty posted:I'm looking to get some screws for a recently acquired '94 Toyota Pickup. I was able to download the service manuals, and have a screenshot of what screws they say are required, but I'm having one hell of a time finding them online. I went to the local hardware store and the guy who helped me gave me the closest ones he could find, but none of them fit, so I'm looking to find the exact matches online. Can anyone help me narrow these down? I realized the diameter/length were in the metric system (inches in parenthetical), but there is nothing in the manual about the thread pitch, hoping someone here knows where I can find these. Also I'm not very technical/mechanical if you couldn't tell. What do you need them for? And do you have any to match up a replacement with? You could try researching what years and models have the same engine/etc as your '94 pickup and check out junkyards...Or ask a dealership, although I once tried to get skid plate bolts from a Toyota dealership and they told me they only sell the entire skid plate for $300 and tough poo poo. Aside from that, you could say 'screw it' (edit: unintentional pun) and get some sheet metal screws of the same diameter & length and use them instead. The pitch doesn't have to match because they will make their own threads as you screw them in. My guess is that "B" has a pitch of 1.25 and "E" probably has a 1.75. Pitch in metric is just the distance in millimeters between the threads, if you get desperate, find a way to measure them.
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Jul 31, 2013 06:09
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Omglosser posted:Aside from that, you could say 'screw it' (edit: unintentional pun) and get some sheet metal screws of the same diameter & length and use them instead. The pitch doesn't have to match because they will make their own threads as you screw them in. E looks like a trim screw, which usually screws into plastic or into a thin metal clip. I've done exactly that for those style of screws. Just take one with you to Lowes, Home Depot, etc and find something that's roughly the same. I was actually able to find an exact match (aside from the color) last time I did that. v  v
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Jul 31, 2013 06:15
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Motronic posted:Is it a short bed? If so, that's even more likely. It's a SuperCrew with the 6.5ft bed, and it is indeed my first. And it does calm down when loaded. Thanks. solarNativity fucked around with this message at 15:52 on Jul 31, 2013 |
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Jul 31, 2013 15:50
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I had a ZR2 short box that was like driving a bowl of jello. Turns out all of them were about the same. Thick tires and short wheel bases are awful.
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Jul 31, 2013 17:25
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Motronic posted:Yeah, that's not really a ludicrous price. I get that it doesn't make sense considering the value of the wheels, but this is exactly why is makes no sense to rebuild common motors anymore either. Shop work is expensive because labor is expensive and so is equipment, permits, chemicals, disposal and everything else that goes along with running a machine shop or plating shop. Well, poo poo. Guess I'll just dip the damned things. Running into a similar "just replace the whole thing" problem on a friends '95 Corolla - apparently one of the bushings is difficult to get a hold of. The auto parts places want you to just replace the whole control arm. So $50 instead of an $8 bushing. Thanks. that's great for bucks-down folks like said friend. I'm willing to do the labor for beer and a free meal, but she's going to have a tough time scraping up $100+ for both control arms. Looks like the other bushing is available, either as just the rubber part for $6, or the assembly for $30-$50. I HATE it when you can only get assemblies. I can replace the damned bushings, and I'm in TX, so no rust to speak of on the control arm. The bushings LOOK OK, but they've got 230K miles on them, and she thinks she's hearing noises from the suspension. Only thing I can think of. Ball joints seem to be, goo - I can't move move them vertically with a prybar, and they don't do much on a strut-equipped car. Boots look good. Strut tops look OK, no cracking or movement. Probably needs struts, too, but the car's not bouncing around or anything yet.
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Jul 31, 2013 18:20
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Can anyone make a recommendation on a pre purchase inspection in the Denver area? It's for a Sprinter van, if that makes any difference.
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Jul 31, 2013 18:59
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Geirskogul posted:Clean your MAF sensor. I had this same poo poo happen with a 2001 olds 98 and a 1988 delta 88, all with variations of the awesome 3800. Both times the airflow sensor needed cleaning and it would kill the car dead at random times. I had a 1998 Grand Prix that did goofy stuff like that, and it was the Idle Air Control Valve.
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Jul 31, 2013 19:14
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That is also possible, but usually the car will start right back up with a dirty IAC, this one is killing his dead for a set amount of time. That said, clean both.
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Jul 31, 2013 19:23
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sellouts posted:Can anyone make a recommendation on a pre purchase inspection in the Denver area? http://www.diyautorepairshops.com/ 7395 N. Federal Blvd, Westminster, CO 303-429-4000
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Jul 31, 2013 19:50
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Thank you! Unfortunately the jacks at DIY aren't rated for the weight of the Sprinter. Any other suggestions?
sellouts fucked around with this message at 20:54 on Jul 31, 2013 |
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Jul 31, 2013 20:22
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I have been looking everywhere, I need to find these for a project. WHAT THE HECK ARE THEY CALLED?! I can only find them in pictures, but not by name, by "automotive paint samples".
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Jul 31, 2013 22:57
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Try "gawdy", "ricer", "fast n furious", "metal flake explosion", or the ever-popular "plasti-dipstick"
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Jul 31, 2013 23:01
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Do you mean the color or the sample itself? Try calling around to some of your local body shops, I'm pretty sure those samples are put out by the paint manufacturers and given to paint/body shops by sales reps.
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Jul 31, 2013 23:12
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I think he's probably looking for the things the paint is sprayed on to, he's probably an automotive paint/bodywork student. Sorry I have no idea what they're called. I would call up an automotive paint company and ask them.
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Jul 31, 2013 23:14
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VelociBacon posted:I think he's probably looking for the things the paint is sprayed on to, he's probably an automotive paint/bodywork student. Yeah, I'm just looking for the actual forms they're sprayed on; they're fairly ubiquitous for samples, but I have no idea where to find them. I'm not a student, just trying to work on a dumb side-project, and they would be helpful to have around to practice painting on.
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Jul 31, 2013 23:21
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Is this as bad as it looks?   Weird that the bearing doesn't seem to have the little knick that aligns it in the cap. As such it was sliding around. Normal?
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Aug 1, 2013 01:31
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Raluek posted:Is this as bad as it looks? That is a Spun Bearing (tm) which is pretty bad yes. It used to have the little locator, once upon a time. Usually devolves into a thrown rod if you don't fix it in time/don't give a poo poo. It's pretty much exactly as bad as it looks, rebuild/replacement time depending on what the engine's worth.
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Aug 1, 2013 01:50
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Slavvy posted:That is a Spun Bearing (tm) which is pretty bad yes. It used to have the little locator, once upon a time. Usually devolves into a thrown rod if you don't fix it in time/don't give a poo poo. That's what I thought. Dammit. I keep believing people when they tell me things, and then handing them money. I might never learn.
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Aug 1, 2013 02:01
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A slight update to me taking my door panel off my Kia spectra 02. Got all the screws off but I'm scratching my head right now trying to take off the panel. There is a panel underlay for the door handle and its blocking me from pulling the panel off. A quick google-fu gives me this answer which sounds right: You have to remove the handle, there is a screw in the center then you unhook the lock and handle rods by turning the plastic locks. But I'm not sure what the plastic locks are. The two blue spots of plastic you see in the last picture and the metal rods are presumably the connects to the door handle that pivot to open the door when you pull the door handle. It all felt like one big unit too so I couldn't just slip the cover off around the door handle and it was pretty taught as you can see by my fingers so I didn't want to keep yanking on the whole piece. It was a bit late so I apologize for the dark photos. I'l lgive it a go tomorrow morning with sunlight out and maybe I'll just figure it out.   
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Aug 1, 2013 09:32
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You may be able to pull the front out a little to get more room. The clips (the blue plastic) will need to be pushed down slightly, then rotated 90 degrees clockwise (for the left side). Then flip the handle CCW to remove it. In my experience, those clips tend to break if you're not careful, but at least last time I had to replace them, they were stocked in the Help! section at most parts stores (this was years ago though). Can't vouch for that still being the case.
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Aug 1, 2013 09:52
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Ok, so my engine sounds normal at idle, but is loud as poo poo in a low-frequency way under acceleration. Is this indicative of an exhaust leak? 04 Explorer 4.0 SOHC
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Aug 1, 2013 15:55
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Wasabi the J posted:Yeah, I'm just looking for the actual forms they're sprayed on; they're fairly ubiquitous for samples, but I have no idea where to find them. I'm not a student, just trying to work on a dumb side-project, and they would be helpful to have around to practice painting on. They're called Speed shapes or speed bodies: http://www.startechservices.com/products.htm http://www.coastairbrush.com/products.asp?cat=460 That's a couple I found. Your local auto paint supply might be able to help, too.
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Aug 1, 2013 16:11
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Duckboat posted:Ok, so my engine sounds normal at idle, but is loud as poo poo in a low-frequency way under acceleration. Is this indicative of an exhaust leak? Possibly, but exhaust leak noises typically include a high pitched ticking as well. Are you experiencing any loss of power? Should be easy enough to track down. Crawl under there and examine the pipes for black soot marks.
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Aug 1, 2013 16:33
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Motronic posted:Possibly, but exhaust leak noises typically include a high pitched ticking as well. Are you experiencing any loss of power? Or if you're feeling really frisky you can run some seafoam through your motor. Pretty well impossible to miss an exhaust leak then.
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Aug 1, 2013 16:35
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Wasabi the J posted:Yeah, I'm just looking for the actual forms they're sprayed on; they're fairly ubiquitous for samples, but I have no idea where to find them. I'm not a student, just trying to work on a dumb side-project, and they would be helpful to have around to practice painting on. They're called speed shapes or speed bodies usually. There are several sites selling them online. EFB
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Aug 1, 2013 16:46
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DrPain posted:Or if you're feeling really frisky you can run some seafoam through your motor. Pretty well impossible to miss an exhaust leak then. Good point. That really does make things obvious. (and he's talking about through a vacuum line, Duckboat)
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Aug 1, 2013 16:50
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Thanks for the advice so far, guys. After more screwing around, there might be a slight ticking, but mostly it sounds like a Harley, for what it's worth. The sound exists at idle, but is very pronounced under load. Also, it seems to be revving a bit high, and hits 2k rpm on startup, although it goes to normal idle after 10-15 seconds. It's never done this previously, and it being an automatic make me suspicious of odd revving.
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Aug 1, 2013 17:17
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Duckboat posted:Thanks for the advice so far, guys. After more screwing around, there might be a slight ticking, but mostly it sounds like a Harley, for what it's worth. The sound exists at idle, but is very pronounced under load. Also, it seems to be revving a bit high, and hits 2k rpm on startup, although it goes to normal idle after 10-15 seconds. It's never done this previously, and it being an automatic make me suspicious of odd revving. If you're driving around with the windows up you may not hear the ticking. Windows down and drive past some concrete barriers/walls/etc under throttle and the noise should bounce back and be obvious. Your high idle speed at startup has nothing to do with an automatic or manual transmission. It could be a vacuum leak, a dirty IAC, or a dirty throttle body. I wouldn't hurt the clean the last two and look for the first one. The one thing Ford got right on those things is the driveline. They are fairly reliable and cheap to repair. Underpowered and fuel-hungry, but reliable.
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Aug 1, 2013 17:21
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soggybagel posted:A slight update to me taking my door panel off my Kia spectra 02. The rods are long, thin pieces of metal, so they will flex out when you pull on the panel.
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Aug 1, 2013 17:22
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A question about rusted out brake lines. When I took my car in to get it fixed they pointed out how rusted one of my two brake lines were. They weren't kidding- they're looking pretty bad. How difficult is it to replace both steel brake lines in a Civic? Only asking because they quoted me ~$700 parts and labour, and I'd like to avoid having to pay that.melon cat posted:Just noticed something else about my Honda Civic. Whenever I hit a bump in the road, one of the front wheels seems to make more noise (the driver's side is noisier). It's almost as if there's more of an echoing, reverberating sound whenever a bump hits the driver-side front wheel. Tough to explain, but that's the best way I can think of explaining it. 
melon cat fucked around with this message at 17:35 on Aug 1, 2013 |
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Aug 1, 2013 17:32
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melon cat posted:A question about rusted out brake lines. When I took my car in to get it fixed they pointed out how rusted one of my two brake lines were. They weren't kidding- they're looking pretty bad. How difficult is it to replace both steel brake lines in a Civic? Only asking because they quoted me ~$700 parts and labour, and I'd like to avoid having to pay that. It's not $700 hard. But you will need a bender and double flaring tool, probably $25 worth of line and be able to bleed the brake when you're done.
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Aug 1, 2013 17:44
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Motronic posted:It's not $700 hard. But you will need a bender and double flaring tool, probably $25 worth of line and be able to bleed the brake when you're done. (Please say 'no.')
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Aug 1, 2013 19:48
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The folks' 2004 Kia Optima 4 banger threw an 0320 yesterday. I looked it up, cleared it, and then made sure they paid more attention to how the car acts. The code is already back today after about 30 miles of driving. The tac isn't stuttering and it hasn't lost power (it never had any  ), so I somewhat doubt it is the ignition module, but I don't know enough about this evil Korean monstrosity to do more than wait to identify further symptoms. Anything specific I can test or watch for before the fucktard starts shotgunning parts at the car and making things worse?
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Aug 1, 2013 19:55
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