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Upper front as in the stud on the shock that goes through the inner fender? And rear lower as in the nut that holds the shock eye on the big rear end stud? E: to sort of answer your question I really don't think nut strength is a concern on those parts. Do you should be fine. If you did get confused and are asking about the hardware that attaches the bar pins to the front axle and rear unibody they're 5/16 corse thread. fps_bill fucked around with this message at 03:18 on Jul 28, 2013 |
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Jul 28, 2013 03:12
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When I did my shocks I used all the original bolts and nuts. Nothing I saw called out having to put new ones on explicitly. I couldn't even find torque values to use so I just made everything snug. That was 20k miles ago and nothing has fallen off so you should be fine.
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Jul 28, 2013 03:31
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I bought myself a lightly used 2012 Unlimited Sahara in February and the stupid tire pressure sensor thing has been dinging at me from day one despite the (stock) tires all being properly inflated, etc. Anyone have any idea what could be the problem here? It has also started making a strange...sort of humming noise(? it's hard to describe) when I accelerate at times. Not always, but it's definitely there on occasion. I haven't been particularly hard on it. Only some very light two track type stuff and a recent roadtrip from Texas to Michigan. Obviously, I don't know what the previous owner did to it. Fake edit: A photo:  "Modifications" include oh poo poo bars/handles in the front, a stubby little rubbery antenna, and a JKini from Spiderweb Shades. I haven't really been able to convince myself that I need tires and a lift and poo poo like that yet. The hardtop is awkward as hell to take off solo (I couldn't do it, or at least not with confidence in my ability to not drop it).
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Jul 28, 2013 11:36
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MadBurgerMaker posted:I bought myself a lightly used 2012 Unlimited Sahara in February and the stupid tire pressure sensor thing has been dinging at me from day one despite the (stock) tires all being properly inflated, etc. Anyone have any idea what could be the problem here? It has also started making a strange...sort of humming noise(? it's hard to describe) when I accelerate at times. Not always, but it's definitely there on occasion. Do you have a usb charger plugged into the dash power outlet ? Lots of those will set off the TPMS, and also gently caress with your keyless entry. On a trip to kelowna a couple months ago and the loving jeep went haywire. TPMS, locks unlocking and locking again. It loving locked me out while checking tire pressures on a roadside pullout. 20 minutes later girlfriend was searching forums for similar issues, turns out to be the USB charger, unplugged it and everything was fine. This was after 12 hours of having it plugged in with no issue.
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Jul 28, 2013 19:52
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jonathan posted:Do you have a usb charger plugged into the dash power outlet ? Lots of those will set off the TPMS, and also gently caress with your keyless entry. On a trip to kelowna a couple months ago and the loving jeep went haywire. TPMS, locks unlocking and locking again. It loving locked me out while checking tire pressures on a roadside pullout. Huh. I didn't know poo poo like that could cause those kinds of issues. I've got a Motorola phone charger thing that has been in there pretty much the whole time. I don't think it's the kind you're talking about, but I'll unplug it anyway and see what happens when I leave here in a couple minutes. I do have one of those double slot USB chargers that you can plug whatever you want in to, but haven't really used it.
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Jul 28, 2013 22:08
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Is there a way to differentiate between a worn oil pump and worn rod bearings in a 4.0? I just swapped a 4.0 into my Comanche and the hot idle oil pressure is about 10 psi. I'm going to swap in a Dana 30 soon and I was planning on pulling the pan at that point to do the rear main seal and pan gasket, so it won't be a big deal to replace the bearings or the pump at that point. I'll probably put some heavier oil in it (No idea what's in it now) soon to see what that does. Cold idle is up around 50 psi, hot highway is 50ish. edit: I put a 200k mile engine in my truck 'cause I'm dumb and IDGAF. User Error fucked around with this message at 02:46 on Jul 29, 2013 |
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Jul 29, 2013 02:42
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User Error posted:
200k is when the break-in period ends.  also:  crossposting new (to me) hot air intake. Sandbagger SA fucked around with this message at 08:08 on Jul 29, 2013 |
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Jul 29, 2013 07:24
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Yeah I have 180k on my XJ and it's still going strong. The suspension is starting to go, but the engine is a champ.
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Jul 29, 2013 07:35
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I got my new license plate put on, and installed my new horns. There's a great spot behind the bumper on the TJ where they are protected while not being blocked. I thought they would sound a lot deeper but they are loud and I like em! I also put in new springs and control arms but who cares about that. Next week my heavy duty steering is going on, and maybe the rest of the control arms.
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Jul 29, 2013 17:10
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commissargribb posted:
A stock air box is way better than that lovely pond sucker you had in before.
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Jul 29, 2013 18:09
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What tools do you guys keep in your jeep, especially when wheeling? I'm working on setting up a toolbox to hopefully be able to fix (almost) anything, and I'm curious what all I'd need to keep in it. So far, I'm planning: - 1/2" sockets, Metric, I'm thinking 8mm - 21mm? (The biggest bolt I know of so far is the lugnut at 19mm, but I haven't been all over the truck yet) - 1/2" breaker bar ( http://www.harborfreight.com/12-drive-25-breaker-bar-67933.html ) - 1/2" ratchet (Craftsman, probably?) - 3/8" sockets, metric, probably 6-16mm? (I'm also not sure what the smallest bolt on the truck is, yet) - 3/8" ratchet - metric combo wrenches (I have this Craftsman set, but may need to add a few more) - channel locks (brand?) - needle nose / flat nose pliers - ratcheting screwdriver with philips, flat, and torx (?) What else do I need? And what's a decent box to keep stuff like this in?
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Jul 31, 2013 21:26
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Krakkles posted:What tools do you guys keep in your jeep, especially when wheeling? I don't know what axles are on your XJ, but the u-joint strap bolts on TJ's are 5/16" (which is slightly smaller than 8mm), and considering that u-joints are a common trail failure, you should be prepared to change them. Carry the tools and parts to do them too, including new straps. Also, include torque wrenches in that list and some way to quickly reference torque specs.
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Jul 31, 2013 21:44
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I am getting 18-21mpg (depending on the day) in my crapcan 98 XJ with a 250k motor out of a 94, alternately sitting in traffic and doing 85mph. I'm not sure if I'm doing this right. Oh, that engine sat in the woods by my driveway for an entire winter with the intake full of water, and I never did anything about it aside from pull the plugs and dump it out.  (yes, I've verified my numbers. I know exactly how long my commute is, always fill up completely at the same pump, etc.) Slow is Fast posted:A stock air box is way better than that lovely pond sucker you had in before. Totally. That hot air intake was a pile of random poo poo ace and I threw together in about 30 minutes at the shop because we needed it to have some sort of filter on it for testing/first road driving, especially since it was winter at the time. It then stayed on there for 6 months because temporary fixes that work become permanent.  I keep ALL my hand tools in my jeep, at all times. The bag weighs around 80-100lbs so it's a bit annoying to load but whatever, it means I always have everything I need. I'd have to think about it to come up with a full list but here's a start: 1/2, 9/16, 5/8 - very common on the engine 13mm 12 point - get a 1/2 drive one, shallow socket. Unit bearing bolts are this size. 36mm - axle nuts. Definitely want a 1/2 or even 3/4 drive for this. These are responsible for about 75% of my 1/2" breaker bar returns. 21mm - lower control arms, leaf springs 5/16" 1/4-drive 6 point - driveshaft bolts. A box wrench and a socket + long extension (box wrench for breaking them loose, socket and extension for removal) are nice. If you have to remove the front shaft, the transfer case end of it basically requires a 5/16 gearwrench, box wrench, or 1/4 drive ratchet and shallow 5/16 socket, I found out the wrong way that a 3/8 ratchet and socket won't fit between the yoke and the transfer case. At least on an XJ/MJ/ZJ/TJ - on the YJ, the stock front shaft is a single cardan/single cardan setup instead of single/double, so the bolts go on from the other side. 12 or 13mm gearwrench will make your life easy removing the calipers before changing out a unit bearing and/or axleshaft. Early jeeps (92.0 or so and earlier, iirc) have a different design depending on a few factors, and may need a metric allen key. Oh, bring a deep socket of some sort or a properly sized bolt and nut to use the unit bearing removal trick. Axles and driveshafts are the most common failure points. Prepare for those, think about other failures but don't really expect them unless you have a heavy right foot.
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Jul 31, 2013 22:45
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Lots of great info, thank you, guys. For reference, I've got a '00 XJ, of which I need to post pics soon. First the butt rear end ugly decals have to come off the sides (probably this weekend).
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Jul 31, 2013 23:09
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How the hell are you getting that kind of mileage? The best I ever got in my 99 was 19 and that was all highway from PA to Richmond, Va. E: usually I get 16 going back and forth to work. I wonder if the little bulge pre-cat in my front pipe could be have something to do with my jeep being slow and getting lovely mileage doing it. fps_bill fucked around with this message at 00:02 on Aug 1, 2013 |
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Aug 1, 2013 00:00
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I got almost 3 MPG back just from replacing the exhaust manifold and it only had two small hairline cracks in it. Getting about 16 MPG with mixed city/highway driving on 33's with 4.56 gears. Haven't reset the ECU yet though, might be able to squeeze a little more out of it.
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Aug 1, 2013 00:25
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My header has 2 hellish cracks that I can see. I don't want to buy a new manifold so I'm patching my header this weekend.
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Aug 1, 2013 01:02
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On the way home from Southbridge, I averaged 19.5 MPG which is probably what I'll continue to get unless I do something stupid like regear back to 3.07s (never going to happen). So this is a thing. all speakers work and I tested the SD card function as well. The radio function seems a little weak but what can you expect for a $30 stereo?
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Aug 1, 2013 01:06
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commissargribb posted:On the way home from Southbridge, I averaged 19.5 MPG which is probably what I'll continue to get unless I do something stupid like regear back to 3.07s (never going to happen). Wow was that $30 new? I have an old Mercedes with a lovely Sony deck I'd love to replace with something more period looking.
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Aug 1, 2013 07:23
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fps_bill posted:How the hell are you getting that kind of mileage? The best I ever got in my 99 was 19 and that was all highway from PA to Richmond, Va. I have absolutely no idea. I think it's because the jeep is afraid of me, every time it pisses me off I take it out in the woods and thrash on it even though it's stock and has mostly bald mismatched tires. It's literally the "beaten hard, put away wet, gets me to work or it gets the hose again" jeep. The exhaust has been smashed into a number of times while beating it up offroad, most recently the day before my last interview for this job. It was so badly twisted and constricted it barely made it home. I sawzalled pieces off until it ran again and kept driving. The CEL did just come on last night before I drove home, so I need to pull the codes at lunch and find out what is going on. My suspicion is the transmission is finally melting down but we'll see. Still got at least 300 miles (and counting) out of this tank, but I'm going to fill up as a precaution because my gas gauge is completely nonfunctional. Best mileage ever was in my MJ on the way back from PA, 200k+ engine/trans (automatic!) with no repairs done, summer gas, severely hungover and doing 55-65 the whole way, all highway, calculated exactly using the GPS distance between the stations I filled at. 23.13mpg  with a 4.0, AW4, NP231, two driveshafts, 4 axleshafts, a radiator, an engine hoist, a hydraulic floor jack, all my tools, and all my camping equipment in it. commissargribb posted:On the way home from Southbridge, I averaged 19.5 MPG which is probably what I'll continue to get unless I do something stupid like regear back to 3.07s (never going to happen).
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Aug 1, 2013 13:30
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A lot of the Wranglers I've been looking at have been leaking fluid from the rear differential. Is this a common problem, and is it an easy fix? If it's just a matter of cracking open the case, cleani g everything out and resealing it I'm fairly sure I could handle that. How can I tell if they've been running it with no lube and ruining the pinion? Also, some people have very different interpretations of what makes a frame"rust free" I'm looking for something from the mid to late 90's with around 100-150k miles. KBB puts those prices at around 3500-5000 is that overly optimistic?
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Aug 1, 2013 15:40
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Are there any better stereos like that? Ideally, I'm looking for (multiple mono/stereo) AUX in, USB, and (maybe) an SD card. And I'm willing to spend more than $30 to get a good one. Basically, I want to have my ipod plugged in while driving, have the option to switch to a USB stick, and also have a ham radio (two mono 1/8" outputs) plugged in. If necessary, I can unplug the iPod to plug in the ham, but I'd like to be able to leave both plugged in. Also, I can adapt the mono outputs to stereo, so it really doesn't matter if it has two monos and a stereo or two stereos. I'd prefer at least one be on the back of the unit.
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Aug 1, 2013 17:08
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Chef Bromden posted:A lot of the Wranglers I've been looking at have been leaking fluid from the rear differential. Is this a common problem, and is it an easy fix? If it's just a matter of cracking open the case, cleani g everything out and resealing it I'm fairly sure I could handle that. How can I tell if they've been running it with no lube and ruining the pinion? The price of Wranglers is heavily dependent on your location and the time of year. Around here, right now, a late 90's with around 100-150k is more like $5000 - $10000.
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Aug 1, 2013 18:41
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 Don't mind me. mod sassinator posted:Wow was that $30 new? I have an old Mercedes with a lovely Sony deck I'd love to replace with something more period looking. Yeah it was $30 on amazon. It's a piece but it is functional. It sounds rather tinny and the radio controls are a little rough. If I didn't A ) drive an open topped offroad vehicle that can be sprayed with mud at any moment or B ) have possibly the least secure vehicle ever, I would probably get something nicer and spend a little more money. As it is- a terrible stereo seems to me to be the best theft deterrent. Krakkles posted:Are there any better stereos like that? Ideally, I'm looking for (multiple mono/stereo) AUX in, USB, and (maybe) an SD card. And I'm willing to spend more than $30 to get a good one. **WARNING - I KNOW JACK poo poo ABOUT CAR AUDIO** I got mine on Amazon. They had a lot of more expensive models. Selection for double shaft style stereos (like in a CJ or YJ) is limited but DIN style stereos are a lot more plentiful to pick from. I'm a bit wary of 1/8" aux inputs since I messed one up by plugging a bent 1/8" jack into one on my old stereo. The best setup for an MP3 player IMO is USB. As far as channels go, the one I have is stereo but I'm sure nicer setups have 4 or more channels. Sandbagger SA fucked around with this message at 18:57 on Aug 1, 2013 |
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Aug 1, 2013 18:48
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rally posted:The price of Wranglers is heavily dependent on your location and the time of year. Around here, right now, a late 90's with around 100-150k is more like $5000 - $10000. In 2008, I got an 01 Sport(4L, 5sp, 4wd, hardtop/softtop/bikini top, cruise, full doors and dana 44 rear) with 39k miles for 10k. Deal of the century.
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Aug 1, 2013 19:17
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Oh boy 16.87 mpg. My jeep should fear me, I beat it into submission every day. Every time I turn the key I think I'm Steve McQueen. E: I noticed a while ago when I go from D3 to overdrive my revs increase a little instead of dropping. Is this normal? fps_bill fucked around with this message at 19:25 on Aug 1, 2013 |
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Aug 1, 2013 19:19
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fps_bill posted:Oh boy 16.87 mpg. My jeep should fear me, I beat it into submission every day. Every time I turn the key I think I'm Steve McQueen. Well, the beating on it every day is probably affecting your mileage somewhat. Honestly cruising on the highway at 80 in mine only takes like 10% throttle, so it's still quite fuel efficient for something shaped like a rusty shoebox. I was just surprised. Less air going into the cylinders = less fuel going in too, so basically less throttle means more fuel efficient. Obviously speed, engine RPM, and load affect this as well... Basically keep your foot out of it and I bet you pull down 18-20mpg. That may or may not be easy to do, mixed driving I get like 13-14 and if that includes offroad, it drops into the single digits pretty quickly.
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Aug 1, 2013 20:04
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I think all the mountains around here kill me. Everywhere I go I have to go up a mountain. 75+ on flatland and I don't really have to stay in it.
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Aug 1, 2013 21:53
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I replaced my front lower control arms today with something a little tougher. Bushings at the frame side were shot on both arms, and the passenger axle side bolt was pretty loose. How often do y'all go through and check bolts for tight?
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Aug 1, 2013 22:16
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kastein posted:Basically keep your foot out of it and I bet you pull down 18-20mpg. That may or may not be easy to do, mixed driving I get like 13-14 and if that includes offroad, it drops into the single digits pretty quickly. I get 23(assuming my odometer is correct and it seems to be) going 75 over the Appalachians. I was excited about that.
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Aug 2, 2013 05:10
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I finally fixed my door that wouldn't open. A 330lb dude laying across the rear seat of an XJ trying to look at how the lock mechanism works must be quite a sight to see.
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Aug 2, 2013 18:19
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At the risk of sounding uninformed, what's the consensus on Jeep Cherokees? Certain things to look out for? Better or worse years for production? I had a coworker whose Cherokee had all sorts of problems, but I was never sure if it was her fault or a overall Jeep issue.
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Aug 2, 2013 19:15
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Huh, apparently The Most Interesting Man in the World (Dos Equis dude) drives his father's 1994 XJ. 87-90 was Renix 91-96 had the highest HP as far as the old 'boxy' style XJ's; super late-96's and up have a 29-spline rear end in the 8.25 97-99 have the same HP, just a redesigned look and slightly better unibody (better NVH rating) and more modern interior 00-01 started using TJ parts because Chrysler knew it was going to ax the XJ in favor of the Liberty. Avoid these. Anywhere from 91-99 would be my pick, there's some small design changes in there but nothing too major. The only thing I've had to replace on my '99 is the oil pressure switch; it's been perfect. Philip J Fry fucked around with this message at 19:25 on Aug 2, 2013 |
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Aug 2, 2013 19:17
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Look out for body rust, and all the normal stuff - leaks, functionality of components, etc.kastein posted:Sport generally is 4x4. If you get a frontal shot from the CL listing, just look for the differential hanging down on the driver side in the picture, that means it's at least partially 4x4. Make sure the transfer case and front driveshaft are there, a friend of mine got scammed on one that'd had a front axle put in, and a transfer case shifter, but no transfer case or front driveshaft... I asked the same basic question a week or so ago, this was the clearcut answer. Make sure to shift it into 4H and 4L to make sure it will 
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Aug 2, 2013 19:18
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Philip J Fry posted:
Everyone always says this, but my 01 was perfect. Not a single issue in the 2.5 years that I owned it from 123k miles to 159k. I wouldn't have a problem owning another 00-01. Edit: Actually one issue, the passenger headlight would keep blowing its fuse. That's it.
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Aug 2, 2013 20:48
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Yeah they're probably fine, it's just peace of mind to have a head that isn't going to crack. It's probably exacerbated by people (soccer moms) who make lots of short drives for errands, increasing the number of start/stop cycles and the concurrent heating/cooling of the head that goes with it. My only other hang up with it is the low pinion Dana 30 which is standard-cut and not as strong as the reverse-cut high pinion, but that's only relevant to anyone that slaps bigger tires on it and takes it off-road.
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Aug 2, 2013 20:56
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Philip J Fry posted:Yeah they're probably fine, it's just peace of mind to have a head that isn't going to crack. It's probably exacerbated by people (soccer moms) who make lots of short drives for errands, increasing the number of start/stop cycles and the concurrent heating/cooling of the head that goes with it. My only other hang up with it is the low pinion Dana 30 which is standard-cut and not as strong as the reverse-cut high pinion, but that's only relevant to anyone that slaps bigger tires on it and takes it off-road. this and the fact that people are dipshits and NEVER maintain their cooling systems. Me included. You can get away with that on a non-0331 head, but do that to an 0331 or overheat it a time or three and you're toast. I've had my 98 ZJ sourced engine (in my 91 MJ) up to 280 multiple times, got it so hot it exploded the upper hose once, plus probably 100 miles at 240-260 or so in summer heat on the way to PA last summer and still no sign of a head gasket failure or cracked head. Do that to a 00-01 engine and I guarantee it'll pop sooner or later, probably somewhere on the sooner end of the scale. e: add that to the stupid precat 4 oxygen sensor exhaust system on the 01s and CA emissions 00s, the low pinion diff, the newer vehicle (therefore higher price), etc and you are basically paying more for a vehicle that is not as good. If you happen upon one that's being sold for a song, by all means jump on it, just realize that all the changes from the 99 and earlier vehicles were downgrades. I can think of only one upgrade, the NV3550 that they switched to from the AX15, and even that is somewhat subjective, people say they're tougher than the AX15 but the manufacturers rated them at exactly the same torque value, 300 foot pounds. kastein fucked around with this message at 21:08 on Aug 2, 2013 |
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Aug 2, 2013 21:05
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Ugh nvm. My door worked till I put the door card back on then it wouldn't unlock anymore. I'm gonna have to gently caress with it this weekend.
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Aug 2, 2013 22:18
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BoostCreep posted:Everyone always says this, but my 01 was perfect. Not a single issue in the 2.5 years that I owned it from 123k miles to 159k. I wouldn't have a problem owning another 00-01. I wouldn't hesitate to crawl mine around Moab in August for a couple weeks like I have about ten times before.
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Aug 2, 2013 22:49
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fps_bill posted:Ugh nvm. My door worked till I put the door card back on then it wouldn't unlock anymore. I'm gonna have to gently caress with it this weekend. If it worked when it was off, it's probably just a little out of line and binding up.
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Aug 3, 2013 18:14
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