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There's a blog post that Chung from Wargamer's Consortium did about ammonia-based cleaners - basically the word is that using them to spray through your brush is fine, but DO NOT soak them for a long period (more than an hour or two, I think) in ammonia cleaners like Windex, etc. That's the company line from Badger's owner Ken. I spray through with various things (water, Vallejo thinner and an ammonia cleaner I mixed myself) in an effort to find out what's 'better' to use between colors but I haven't really settled on one myself. If I feel I have to soak anything like the tip, nozzle, etc., I use the pre-made thinner, though.
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Aug 1, 2013 23:05
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I think it's time to retire my fine detail brush. RIP little buddy 
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Aug 1, 2013 23:15
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 Been working on my Pink Horror squad but I'm at a loss as to what color(s) to paint their beaks. Suggestions? I was thinking Mephiston Red and then a lightened mix of the base red to highlight the ends of the beaks and then washed with a dark red wash so it collects in the beak etchings. Ignore the pooled dip blob it's just going to be painted over anyways.
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Aug 2, 2013 00:39
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krushgroove posted:The Neo should be pretty decent actually (I have one but haven't used it yet, I really should just to have a comparison) but if you want to step up I would definitely say the Badger Revolution Krome or the Sotar 20/20. Exact same internals, the Sotar just has a thinner feel because it was designed for illustrators and the Revolution is a bit heavier because it was designed for scale modelers. When it nice and clean, you have the right paint consistency and you have the air pressure just right you can really get lines down to mechanical pencil-width. I have the Neo and it's a lovely airbrush. At no point in using it in the last year have I thought 'I need a fancier/better/more expensive airbrush' and I'm a completely gadget geek when it comes to hobbies. I have an entire box full of just blue paints, but never thought I needed or wanted more than my Neo.
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Aug 2, 2013 01:41
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Can any of you recommend texture paints that come in droppers? As far as I know Reaper (the only paints with which I'm familiar) doesn't make them. I really, really don't want to futz around with pots. e: Come to think of it, texture paints in droppers doesn't make a ton of sense due to clogs. It's probably pots of some sort for me. In that case, are the Vallejo texture paints any good? Achmed Jones fucked around with this message at 03:09 on Aug 2, 2013 |
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Aug 2, 2013 03:04
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For textured paints, I just use a bottle of craft sand mixed with cheap Apple Barrel paint. It works great, and I have control over how much grit I want.
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Aug 2, 2013 03:49
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Pacheeco posted:
A pale bright green?
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Aug 2, 2013 08:23
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Pacheeco posted:
Bright Yellow or Green.
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Aug 2, 2013 08:25
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serious gaylord posted:Bright Yellow or Green. Why not both? Do it like the feathers on this dude: 
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Aug 2, 2013 10:37
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Aug 2, 2013 13:51
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I bought this Harder & Steenback airbrush over a year ago but between job and house moves and assorted other things, I only got round to using it a couple of months ago. It's been temperamental but I put that down to the steep learning curve with an airbrush. While cleaning it, however, I noticed that the ring the needle goes through in the main body of the brush doesn't go all the way around, with a small gap. Is my airbrush defective? 
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Aug 2, 2013 15:15
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There will probably be a video or website teardown of your model (or at least the instructions), that piece is most likely 'keyed' to fit into another piece to slide through and stay in an upright position. My brushes have a similar thing but it's hard to explain without pictures and/or video. (considering it's a German brand I'm sure, it's probably not a badly machined part)
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Aug 2, 2013 15:25
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That's how it's supposed to look. edit: It's not a key, that's where the air comes out. Gareth Gobulcoque fucked around with this message at 15:29 on Aug 2, 2013 |
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Aug 2, 2013 15:26
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Ah, OK, was thinking it's the opposite end of the brush.
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Aug 2, 2013 15:51
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Attention anyone who bought Minitaire Paints: I would put a bit of clear (scotch) tape over the name of the color on the label, they fade with minor touching.  That is all.
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Aug 2, 2013 18:13
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will blow your mind.
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Also, a warning for people who are buying Minitaire paints on Amazon. About half the time I have bought the 2oz bottles, they arrive correctly. The other half of the time they are 1 oz bottles with aftermarket labels saying 2 oz. I've had to get half my money refunded a few times now, so just be aware when it arrives how large the bottle is and whether you paid the correct amount for it.
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Aug 2, 2013 18:59
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JoshTheStampede posted:Also, a warning for people who are buying Minitaire paints on Amazon. About half the time I have bought the 2oz bottles, they arrive correctly. The other half of the time they are 1 oz bottles with aftermarket labels saying 2 oz. I've had to get half my money refunded a few times now, so just be aware when it arrives how large the bottle is and whether you paid the correct amount for it. Try ordering 1oz bottles and see if they send you 2oz ones
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Aug 2, 2013 19:42
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serious gaylord posted:Bright Yellow or Green. Serotonin posted:A pale bright green? I was actually going to do Green/Yellow on the feathers on the other models and that just wasn't working at all. I ended up going bright orange for the beaks.
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Aug 2, 2013 19:54
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Real hurthling! posted:Try ordering 1oz bottles and see if they send you 2oz ones That's the thing - you CANT order 1 oz bottles. I think the 1 oz bottles only come in the set, which is out of stock. I assume some seller broke up sets to sell piecemeal but didn't realize the individual bottles were different sizes.
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Aug 2, 2013 19:56
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JoshTheStampede posted:That's the thing - you CANT order 1 oz bottles. I think the 1 oz bottles only come in the set, which is out of stock. I assume some seller broke up sets to sell piecemeal but didn't realize the individual bottles were different sizes. Are the old GW paints being sold under a different name now?
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Aug 2, 2013 19:59
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LingcodKilla posted:Are the old GW paints being sold under a different name now? Yes and they look ever so slightly different but the one or two bottles of shade (formerly wash) that i've tried have a big jump up in quality
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Aug 2, 2013 21:28
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LingcodKilla posted:Are the old GW paints being sold under a different name now? Depends on what you mean. If you mean "Are the new GW paints just the old ones with new names", then no, they aren't. There's more of them, and some colors don't line up exactly. That's why they have new names - GW was moving to a new supplier entirely, and wanted to head off complaints of "The new Blood Red doesn't match the old" by simply saying "It's not Blood Red, it's Mephiston Red, it doesn't have to match". If you mean "Can you still get the actual old GW paints under another name", then no, I don't think so, but maybe.
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Aug 2, 2013 21:44
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JoshTheStampede posted:Depends on what you mean. If you mean "Are the new GW paints just the old ones with new names", then no, they aren't. There's more of them, and some colors don't line up exactly. That's why they have new names - GW was moving to a new supplier entirely, and wanted to head off complaints of "The new Blood Red doesn't match the old" by simply saying "It's not Blood Red, it's Mephiston Red, it doesn't have to match". http://www.dakkadakka.com/wiki/en/Paint_Range_Compatibility_Chart
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Aug 2, 2013 22:49
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Penguin Patrol posted:I found this matrix especially useful for that, but I should add that I'm just getting into painting and that my eye really can't tell the difference. YMMV It's more visible for some colors than others. Some are dead-on, some aren't close. The new supposed replacements for Charadon Granite and Dheneb Stone are not remotely the same, but I can't tell the difference on most of the greens.
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Aug 2, 2013 23:00
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So I'm kind of wanting to get started painting more things. Probably not even going to do gaming with them to start, painting them is just fun and relaxing. Just Reaper's Bones line for now I think. Can someone double-check my shopping list?
I'm sure I'm forgetting something, but if I knew what I was forgetting I wouldn't be forgetting it.
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Aug 2, 2013 23:04
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Keiya posted:
Paints you're going to want to get Reaper, Vallejo or GW, and these will only be available from a FLGS or online. Make sure to buy some spray primer as well. I really like Duplicolor, which can be obtained at most autobody shops like Napa. Other goons like Testors. You'll also want a matte and gloss varnish, Testors for these again. I'm pretty sure you want to stay away from Krylon, but I can't remember. Superglue is Zap-a-Gap or Loctite. Zap-a-Gap is super strong and bonds really quickly, while Loctite has a neat gel formula that's really easy to control. Pallets are nice, but old CDs work really well, and gives you an idea of how opaque the paint is.
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Aug 2, 2013 23:20
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you need metallic paints and earthtones or else you will have a rainbow of crazy colors on every model
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Aug 2, 2013 23:20
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Keiya posted:So I'm kind of wanting to get started painting more things. Probably not even going to do gaming with them to start, painting them is just fun and relaxing. Just Reaper's Bones line for now I think. Can someone double-check my shopping list? Old coffee mug works great for water and the wide mouth makes it easy to clean and look for an old eye dropper(im using an oral cat medicine applicator) or something similar to add water to whatever. A cheap small metal file set too. An Ipad with netflix so you can watch/listen to It's always sunny in Philly. That poo poo is funny.
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Aug 2, 2013 23:44
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Takkaryx posted:I'm pretty sure you want to stay away from Krylon, but I can't remember. The OP recommends Krylon. I just did some minis with Krylon flat black. Seemed okay.
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Aug 3, 2013 00:00
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Medium Style posted:The OP recommends Krylon. I just did some minis with Krylon flat black. Seemed okay. Krylon is good. Either the flat black paint or the black primer. Or white.
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Aug 3, 2013 00:03
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That primer advice is good, unless you're starting on Reaper Bones. Bones react very strangely to many primers. What you need to do is go to the Reaper forums and read the (3 I think) stickied tutorials in the Bones/painting(?) section.Keiya posted:I'm sure I'm forgetting something, but if I knew what I was forgetting I wouldn't be forgetting it.
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Aug 3, 2013 00:59
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You don't need to prime Bones. You do need to basecoat them before you wash (and don't thin your basecoat too much, they're hydrophobic). Don't buy a plastic palette. Paint will dry in it and it will suck. If you try to scrape it out with something hard, it will scratch and then paint will stick to it even better than before. Instead, buy some parchment paper. You can use this in a wet palette later if you want, but for now just tear off a piece and use that. Plastic plates work well, too - they'll stick around as long as you care to clean them, but when you forget and paint is horribly stuck to them, you can throw them away without feeling too bad.
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Aug 3, 2013 03:03
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This is the Bones page you should read, on prepping and undercoating (if desired) your Bones. Takkaryx posted:For brushes, go to Michaels and pick up a set of brushes, with at least a 000 and a 00 size, these will get you started. It won't be too expensive, but they won't last you forever. Remember your coupon for 40% off! Get at least one #0 brush too. I painted with too-small brushes for far, far too long, before I finally discovered that a larger brush can give me a stiffer point than a tiny one. Try to get sable brushes if you can afford it, or that stiff white stuff otherwise. quote:Paints you're going to want to get Reaper, Vallejo or GW, and these will only be available from a FLGS or online. Or Badger Minitaire, or P3, or Foundry. The key thing is to get acrylic paint intended for miniatures. These paints have very fine pigments that work well when diluted with water in the amounts you typically use for figures. If you want to save money, you can buy generic craft acrylic paints; they will work, but quality of pigments and flow additives and stuff varies wildly, so you may get inconsistent results. If you're on a very tight budget, though, you might be better off with 20 different colors of Apple Barrel paints from Michaels rather than 5 colors of GW fancy paint from the game store. Maybe. quote:Make sure to buy some spray primer as well. I really like Duplicolor, which can be obtained at most autobody shops like Napa. Other goons like Testors. Per above, this is optional for Bones. And in general too: many of us painted for years by hand-priming with diluted model paint before we switched to spray priming. You might get splotchier coverage and it definitely takes a lot longer, but on the other hand, you are less likely to accidentally obliterate the details by spraying for a half second too long, and you also don't have to go outside, or deal with humidity issues. Still, if it's in your budget, it's a good idea. I like a medium gray primer as a nice compromise between black (great for space dudes, not great for skeletons) and white (great for skeletons, not great for space dudes). quote:You'll also want a matte and gloss varnish, Testors for these again. I'm pretty sure you want to stay away from Krylon, but I can't remember. I feel like this is more optional for a beginner. Matte coating is a nice way to prevent wear on models you're playing with, but Keiya specifically said these are not for gaming, so I'd rather say buy another four colors and have a more expanded palette, than spend on varnish. I'd also say matte is far more important than gloss. In fact I'd say if you do want gloss, get paint-on rather than spray, since it's more likely you just want to gloss a small part rather than the entire figure. quote:Superglue is Zap-a-Gap or Loctite. Zap-a-Gap is super strong and bonds really quickly, while Loctite has a neat gel formula that's really easy to control. Any brand of cyanoacrylate (CA) superglue will work. Both of these brands are good, but there are many other good brands. Gorilla makes a good superglue, for example. The key is to know that superglues come in thick formulations (good for filling gaps) and thin formulations (good for bonding tight-fit surfaces without creating a gap), and in various speeds of dry-time (I have a fast-drying superglue I greatly prefer to zap-a-gap, for example). quote:Pallets are nice, but old CDs work really well, and gives you an idea of how opaque the paint is. Yeah you can repurpose a ton of household objects as palettes very effectively. Right now I am loving a wet palette I made from a recycled lunchmeat container (so it seals) with wet paper towel in the bottom, and then a sheet of parchment paper laid over that. It keeps paint on the parchment moist without overly diluting it, so it doesn't dry out on the palette, and I can seal the lid shut and go away for hours or even days and come back and still have wet paint to work with. Or use an old CD, or a plastic lid, or a piece of white tile, or anything with a nonporous smooth surface really. LingcodKilla posted:A cheap small metal file set too. Critical for hard plastic and metal minis, for taking off mold lines. Bones have a softer plastic that I find doesn't file quite as well. Get a good small hobby knife with a variety of blades and look for guides on cleaning the mold lines on Bones specifically. Get a set of cheap small files eventually, of course, but I don't think you need them Day 1. The link I posted up at top has a lot to say about removing mold lines, so read through that and then pick an option that appeals to you. Real hurthling! posted:you need metallic paints and earthtones or else you will have a rainbow of crazy colors on every model Definitely the earth tones. Metallics are optional, you'll want a silver if you have chainmail or gun barrels or something you want to paint, but until your total paint count is higher than 20 I'd stick to just one color of silver. Earth tones are more important. You can mix primary colors to get browns but it's a hell of a lot easier if you have a greyish color and a yellowish brown and a rich chocolate brown, as well as a goldenrod and maybe a light leather brown too. Really I'd rather paint a typical figure with nothing but earthtones, rather than nothing but bright primary colors, if I had to pick between the two. Leperflesh fucked around with this message at 03:10 on Aug 3, 2013 |
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Aug 3, 2013 03:06
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I also started out making the mistake of getting too small brushes. Since I had crappy brushes, the 1's and 0's I got couldn't hold a point, so they were only useful for drybrushing. Now that I have better brushes, I can paint almost everything with a 1, and it is a lot faster than trying to cover large areas with a 000.
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Aug 3, 2013 12:22
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ijyt posted:But I know I'll just end up loving something up, I have the worst luck when it comes to that. I bought this kit last week, which looks like the same compressor, but with a slightly different brush. Arrived nice and quick (in the UK). I've not had chance to test it out much yet (been travelling around on vacation) but it seems pretty decent quality. The airbrush itself is a gravity-feed Veda 130. I connected it up, and it takes 3 minutes or so to charge the tank. One thing to remember with this kit (and anything that uses a tank) is to remember to open the drain valve (small brass screw under the bottom at the end of a session - this will stop any water collecting in the tank and stop it rotting from the inside. Keiya posted:So I'm kind of wanting to get started painting more things. Probably not even going to do gaming with them to start, painting them is just fun and relaxing. Just Reaper's Bones line for now I think. Can someone double-check my shopping list? GW do a few starter boxes that come with a handful of WH/40k models, paints, and brushes. One of those, plus a tool starter kit from GW or Army Painter or similar (glue, knife, side-cutters) should set you up. For a cheap palette, try using those disposable glossy paper plates for BBQs. The white surface makes judging colours easy, and instead of cleaning, just throw them away once you're done. Deanut Pancer fucked around with this message at 14:48 on Aug 3, 2013 |
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Aug 3, 2013 14:42
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I'm not sure if this goes here or the DIY cosplay thread, so I'll cross-post. Have some WIP pictures of my Ork Warbike. For riding to tournaments and pick-up games, I have hard-bag ammo cans to carry my army.  for showing off, Gamesday, and conventions they are removable and will be replaced with Dakka Kannons.  Exhaust  Gas tank parts.  Front fender   Many, Many more hours to go.
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Aug 3, 2013 16:32
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Their flashing tongues, spitting out blood and poison.
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Holy goddamn poo poo. That's awesome. Just be sure to get some red on it. 
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Aug 3, 2013 16:42
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malal posted:I'm not sure if this goes here or the DIY cosplay thread, so I'll cross-post. Holy gently caress. 
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Aug 3, 2013 16:42
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Awesome so far! You'll have to dip the whole bike in gasoline and set it on fire before you can call it done, like the 14-pound ork flyer someone did a while back.
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Aug 3, 2013 17:36
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There needs to be a new medical term describing the serotonin gush one gets when one reads a malal project post.
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Aug 3, 2013 18:21
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