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RetardedRobots posted:Nope. Shielding is generally unnecessary; it should really only be bothered with as the absolute last step in trying to eliminate unwanted noise as shielding alone rarely fixes noisy guitars (grounding problems are much more common than the interference that shielding helps with). On the flipside, it doesn't hurt to have it, it's a level detail and finish that shows the builder's pride and it could be a fun learning experience. Great, thanks for the information. I might do it anyway, but that'll depend on how much time I want to spend before I get to play this thing.
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Jul 31, 2013 22:11
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I like Bare Paint for shielding and grounding components. It's viscous enough that it can be used to glue components, wires and even foil to wood, metal or rough plastic while forming an electrical connection. Helps that it's non-toxic and water based unlike most other conductive paints I found.
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Jul 31, 2013 22:32
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Zuhzuhzombie!! posted:That vibrato/vibrola/whatever is definitely wonky. One directional movement and not that much swing at all. I got to play a '60 Les Paul a few months ago (which is basically the same thing), and that vibrato is definitely a weird bird. Nice guitar, though.
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Jul 31, 2013 23:52
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You only really need to shield a guitar if you're using hot single coils or if you live in a giant reverse faraday cage. If noise is a problem it's more likely to be power or cable issues.
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Jul 31, 2013 23:52
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Or you're doing what I did in high school and run a compressor full blast into a tube screamer into a boss metal zone without using a noise gate.
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Aug 1, 2013 00:24
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Ok,I need some pointers on practicing. This is rather embarrassing, so here goes... I started playing a few months ago, and have gotten pretty decent at (alternate/economy picking) major and pentatonic scale patterns. I've also gotten ok at changing chords. Here come the problems: 1. I can't strum I've tried using lighter picks, which helped a bit, but not enough. Every now and then I'll be able to play a pattern decently, and then I won't be able to repeat it. 2. I'm starting to use a metronome, and trying to tap my foot and use both hands in time is... frustrating to say the least. I can get about 3 or 4 notes into any scale, and I completely lose it. I either fret a note that isn't in the scale, lose rhythm, or try to rush to get back in tempo. I've tried slowing the metronome down, but anything under 60bpm and I can't even tap it properly due to how slow it is. Both of these are probably the most important things to know how to do properly, and I simply can't grasp either. Does anyone have any exercises that can help with either of these? Should I use the metronome at a slower tempo? I feel like such a dumbass. I refuse to give up, but its rage inducing. I'm sure this is one of those "practice more" answers, but I feel like I'm doing these things incorrectly. Rye Bread fucked around with this message at 01:54 on Aug 1, 2013 |
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Aug 1, 2013 01:42
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For number 2 just try tapping on the down beat without playing anything. Try not tapping your foot while you're playing too, I think you might be surprised at how much it helps you keep on beat.
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Aug 1, 2013 02:16
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Playing slowly is a skill in itself, so don't put the metronome down too low. Start off at a speed that sounds comfortable, and just play the first 4 notes of a scale, over and over, getting used to it. If you blow it don't worry, just hit the next note you can or start over if you need to. That's what the metronome's about really, forcing you to be agile and accurate, so it does take some getting used to. Don't rush it, and don't beat yourself up either! You can do this while you watch tv or something, it's about repetition and building up muscle memory. Also you don't need to tap your foot necessarily, it's just that some kind of body movement can help you feel the timing better - you can worry about that later. And you might be tapping your foot too fast anyway, it's just keeping time, not hitting every beat or note you're picking. Whatever feels good, man. With the picks, you need to find Your Pick. I like Tortexes because they're nice and grippy and easier to hold, but there are all kinds with different feels. I've been using something like these lately, with a pointy hole that digs into your fingers:  The angle you hold it, the amount that's poking out, and the angle of attack all change how it responds. Experiment, look up some tutorial videos, and see what works for you. Here's one possible way: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1JBxNFEg0nU I tend to hold it between the pads of my thumb, index and middle fingers now, but that's just me. Hitting the right strings is a skill, but depending on how punk you're playing, it might not be reliable. Muting properly means you can hack away and know that if you hit too many strings it won't matter. I finally bookmarked this video I always post, so for once I don't need to dig through youtube for it https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2tmM83KeP28 You don't necessarily have to do it that way, but the general idea is sound, and you'll notice it mentioned in guitar lessons (like fretting an open C chord, and using the tip of the finger on the 5th string to touch the 6th string and mute it). If it really is rage inducing, that's half your problem right there. Tension and frustration will make things worse, and everyone has bad days where your playing just sucks and you're constantly making mistakes. Sometimes it's better to walk away and try again later. Practice is definitely what you need, but real practice - the 'boring' kind, where you drill your moves, not the fun kind where you just play songs you like. If you're having trouble playing Teen Spirit, spend time with the metronome practicing the strumming, over and over and over. Suck at it, then get a bit better, then maybe suck a bit more, then get better and feel it gradually become more consistent. Realise that's how it's meant to be, and messing up is just naturally tripping up as you hone your technique. Everyone's been there, especially with upstrums. baka kaba fucked around with this message at 02:46 on Aug 1, 2013 |
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Aug 1, 2013 02:43
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Do I need to file down the saddles on a new tune-o-matic bridge or can I just stick a replacement on my guitar and just play it for a while so my strings get use to it?
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Aug 1, 2013 02:49
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If it has grooves for the strings then you're good to go. If it doesn't, you gotta file them in.
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Aug 1, 2013 03:19
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Thanks for all the advice! Good to hear about the foot tapping. I was just under the assumption it was something that I should always be doing. baka kaba posted:
Oh, there is definitely a lot of walking away, a few times a night. I'm a quick learner, but when I can't figure something out I get mad pretty quickly. I've now learned that this isn't something you can just expect to be good at quickly. I'll give all this a shot after work tomorrow. I'll have a good 4 or 5 hours before the wife gets home, so its going to be a lot of metronome work.
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Aug 1, 2013 03:34
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Francodipshit posted:If it has grooves for the strings then you're good to go. If it doesn't, you gotta file them in. They have pre-cut grooves, it's just when I play my low E it has a tendency to jump out.
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Aug 1, 2013 03:35
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Noise Machine posted:They have pre-cut grooves, it's just when I play my low E it has a tendency to jump out. Give them a little filing. Just a touch. Be gentle.
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Aug 1, 2013 03:36
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Noise Machine posted:Do I need to file down the saddles on a new tune-o-matic bridge or can I just stick a replacement on my guitar and just play it for a while so my strings get use to it?
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Aug 1, 2013 04:09
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Tune-O-Matics are great for breaking strings at the bridge. Sharp saddles and high break angle.
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Aug 1, 2013 04:31
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jwh posted:Tune-O-Matics are great for breaking strings at the bridge. Sharp saddles and high break angle. Wrap them over the tailpiece btw, that lessens the angle they cross the saddles and seems to help with that, seems to have helped my breakage a lot anyway.
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Aug 1, 2013 05:27
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Why not just raise the piece the strings go through instead of wrapping them around?
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Aug 1, 2013 11:26
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My rusty, jagged, almost 30 year old tune o matic has never broken a string. Is it really that common? I guess I'm lucky, I think they're the most usable and comfortable bridges.
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Aug 1, 2013 14:11
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Kilometers Davis posted:My rusty, jagged, almost 30 year old tune o matic has never broken a string. Is it really that common? I guess I'm lucky, I think they're the most usable and comfortable bridges.
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Aug 1, 2013 15:08
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You want to know how to notch a saddle on a Les Paul? https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MJsLKfrttaU Put a string on it. Find a mallet. Hit it repeatedly. Seriously, check the vid. Then watch the rest of it. (StewMac)
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Aug 2, 2013 00:10
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Ha, I was just coming here to post that same video. Every one should sign up for the trade secrets newsletter anyways it is pretty informative even if it is just a way for them to push certain products.
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Aug 2, 2013 01:38
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I started playing guitar back in the spring on a $90 Monoprice Strat, and have been keeping an eye out for a deal on an Agile 3000-series for a while because I'm curious about what a better quality guitar would play like and I'd like to try a Les Paul-style guitar with humbuckers. Would this AL-3001 B Stock for $300 be a good option for me?
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Aug 2, 2013 20:49
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Parker Lewis posted:Would this AL-3001 B Stock for $300 be a good option for me? Thumposaurus posted:Every one should sign up for the trade secrets newsletter anyways it is pretty informative even if it is just a way for them to push certain products.
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Aug 2, 2013 21:10
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Cpt. Spring Types posted:I'm going to say most likely, yes. Agile's are really good instruments for the cost, and I know a lot of people around here are in love with their AL3000s. I'm sure a lot of people would be really bothered by the mismatched top wood, but it adds character. Yeah, I don't know how the mismatch is actually going to look but I've heard that Rondo has a liberal return policy so I figured it was worth the chance to save $100.
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Aug 2, 2013 21:15
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It's interesting to me that Agile is making 10 pound solid mahogany guitars, something Gibson isn't even doing anymore.
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Aug 2, 2013 21:40
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Parker Lewis posted:Yeah, I don't know how the mismatch is actually going to look but I've heard that Rondo has a liberal return policy so I figured it was worth the chance to save $100. I think the mismatch is gonna look cool as heck. Kurt is pretty good about returns as long as you aren't a jackass and just keep returning everything over and over. Anybody ever used a Bazz Fuss? Just got one in the mail and it is a nice little pedal. It's in one of those tiny tiny hammond cases but it's got a pretty powerful tone.
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Aug 2, 2013 22:26
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jwh posted:It's interesting to me that Agile is making 10 pound solid mahogany guitars, something Gibson isn't even doing anymore. Where does this idea that Gibson no longer makes un-chambered guitars come from? They still make the Traditional series, which is solid un-chambered mahogany and is slightly cheaper than their Standard series.
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Aug 2, 2013 23:58
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Parker Lewis posted:I started playing guitar back in the spring on a $90 Monoprice Strat, and have been keeping an eye out for a deal on an Agile 3000-series for a while because I'm curious about what a better quality guitar would play like and I'd like to try a Les Paul-style guitar with humbuckers. My AL3110 is probably the most eye catching solidly built guitar I own, and since I re-wired it with new pickups it sounds exactly how I want it to sound. Jump on that and post pics when it gets in.
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Aug 3, 2013 01:04
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Revvik posted:My AL3110 is probably the most eye catching solidly built guitar I own, and since I re-wired it with new pickups it sounds exactly how I want it to sound. Jump on that and post pics when it gets in. Done! It's due to be delivered on Monday and I'll check back in with some pictures of the mismatched top when it arrives.
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Aug 3, 2013 03:48
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Side Effects posted:Where does this idea that Gibson no longer makes un-chambered guitars come from? They still make the Traditional series, which is solid un-chambered mahogany and is slightly cheaper than their Standard series. Is that true? I thought they were chambering everything these days
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Aug 3, 2013 04:52
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jwh posted:Is that true? I thought they were chambering everything these days I've seen some designations on MLP forums before, but some Standards/Studios are weight relieved, some are chambered, and occasionally some are solid. Even the Traditional has some level of weight relief, however, the 2013 Traditionals are supposedly not relieved at all. VOS stuff will probably not be relieved in any way.
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Aug 3, 2013 10:57
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I dunno why you wouldn't want a weight relieved guitar. Les Pauls are loving heavy and it really, really doesn't change the tone all that much. I'll probably end up getting a chambered Agile one of these days.
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Aug 3, 2013 18:13
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Some people just prefer the way it feels (they're weird) and some people are just cork sniffers. I'm not really going to judge though since generally I'm not exactly in line with most people on guitar opinions.
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Aug 3, 2013 18:21
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Sometimes you need to club a zombie.
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Aug 3, 2013 22:12
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The most important thing I look for in a guitar after the comfort is the wood tone. Honestly past the feel and the acoustic sound you can basically swap out whatever you want but that core sound is what everything is going to be based around. I can definitely understand why a lot of people want the solid Les Paul body over a weight relieved version.
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Aug 3, 2013 22:45
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Parker Lewis posted:Done! It's due to be delivered on Monday and I'll check back in with some pictures of the mismatched top when it arrives. You're going to love it. We have two AL-2000s and an AL-3000 in the house, and they're all played almost daily. Fantastic build quality for the price, and to this day, I still contend that my $179 B-stock 2000 is a much better guitar all around than the $500 Epi Les Paul I use to have (and hated.)
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Aug 4, 2013 15:05
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I've been playing acoustic guitar in C# standard tuning for several years and I like it as a compliment to my voice. I recently unpacked my electric guitar after several years of storage, and I am considering switching to it for several reasons (mostly the ease of plugging it in during open-mics, etc). I'm not to the point where I can pick apart my guitar sound by ear, but it sounds a little off when I tune my electric to C# standard. Should I take it to a guitar store to have it set-up again? Also, should I move to a heavier string gauge? My electric is an Agile (Rondo) Les-Paul knockoff. Also, can anybody offer tips on getting a clean acoustic-like sound from an electric? Edit: Thanks mate Hot Yellow KoolAid fucked around with this message at 21:15 on Aug 4, 2013 |
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Aug 4, 2013 20:21
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Hot Yellow KoolAid posted:Should I take it to a guitar store to have it set-up again? Also, should I move to a heavier string gauge? -Yes. -Yes. -Eq your amp like 1oclock treble, 3 mid and 2 bass or somewhere around there. Gain as low as you can get it while still having a sound come out of the speaker. Volume as loud as you want (or have the amp DI'd into the PA or mic'd). Neck pickup, volume at mid and tone rolled off slightly. This is just a starting point, everyone's amp sounds different and an EQ in one room will sound drastically different in another so play with it until you get the sound you want. If you're like me you'll never stop playing with EQ settings.* *my current EQ flavor of the month is everything but volume on full blast. This means all of the pedals get turned up all the way too.
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Aug 4, 2013 20:43
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If your boost/overdrive isn't set to crank dat you did something wrong.
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Aug 4, 2013 23:08
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Stravinsky posted:If your boost/overdrive isn't set to crank dat you did something wrong. This is something I've been occasionally dicking around with. I can't actually run both my fuzz and my distortion at full tilt simultaneously (It just turns into a garbled, feedbacky mess), so I'm trying to find a way where I can run one, and then punch the other in for sonic hyperspace. Any suggestions on how to best make that happen? My fuzz is a bog-standard Big Muff, my distorter is a Keeley mod DS-1.
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Aug 4, 2013 23:38
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