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Re: dust covers. It's supposed to keep dust off the turntable/record. If you have the same record player for ten or more years (as many Technics-owners do), dust accumulates in every nook and crevice on the tonearm assembly and whatever else there is with tiny spaces for dust to sneak in and it's just a bitch to clean once it's good and settled. Unless, of course, you have one of those systems where the dust cover is the tonearm but I hope you don't since it's just crazy (though cool in theory).
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Aug 3, 2013 19:01
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I think we're specifically talking about issues they cause in playback. I don't have the world's best system by a long shot, but I swear I can hear a difference on my 1200 running with the lid off. It certainly looks better to me. Most Technics linear trackers have a tonearm that is also a lid. I have an SL-J3 from the lower end. Great little unit for parties, kids, pets etc.
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Aug 3, 2013 20:10
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Since I'm not going to be bothered to get hinges AND a cover for the M3D I'll probably run it cover less by default, but I really can't imagine it makes that much of a difference. I would love to get whatever kind of equipment one would need to look at the electrical output and do a waveform analysis to see if there was a noticeable difference. Surely something like leaving the dust cover on or off would produce a noticeable and measurable effect if you could hear it in the sound. Really probably would just need some software I guess, you could record the same selection from a record to a line in on a computer and compare the two.
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Aug 3, 2013 20:49
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Dogen posted:It was like, silver body, brownish yellow stylus cart? Mustard looking. Repair shop guy said it was the cheapest thing he had, knocked off $40 when I passed on it and the headshell. Great. I think I know exactly which cart you're talking about and it's not the one I'm looking at. In fact, it's the cart I'll be replacing. eggsovereasy posted:For what it's worth I like both the AT95e and 440MLa more than the M97xe I used to use. The Shure's high range sounded really weak too me, but maybe I'm just getting old and my high frequency hearing is going bad. The 95E is what I'm thinking about picking up. I've got a bottom-of-the-barrel CN5625AL right now (bought it to replace the old- and long discontinued- RadioShack Shure that was originally on my TT when its stylus broke) that I pretty much hate. I'm hoping that the 95E will be a noticeable step up because I don't have the budget for a $200 cart like the 440MLa right now.
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Aug 3, 2013 20:52
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Ron Burgundy posted:I think we're specifically talking about issues they cause in playback. I don't have the world's best system by a long shot, but I swear I can hear a difference on my 1200 running with the lid off. It certainly looks better to me. Tonearm attached to the lid is not the same as tonearm being the lid. I'm talking about the one where the cart is literally in the lid and the turntable moves sideways to allow the stylus to follow the groove. Can't remember the name of the maker or I'd have linked it.
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Aug 3, 2013 22:57
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Electric Bugaloo posted:The 95E is what I'm thinking about picking up. I've got a bottom-of-the-barrel CN5625AL right now (bought it to replace the old- and long discontinued- RadioShack Shure that was originally on my TT when its stylus broke) that I pretty much hate. I'm hoping that the 95E will be a noticeable step up because I don't have the budget for a $200 cart like the 440MLa right now. Yes! Google image search leads me to believe that's exactly the one. It was pretty lousy. The Shure cartridges I have have noticeably more gain, I had to turn my receiver way up to get a decent amount of volume out of that AT, and it just didn't sound great overall. Probably anything will be better. edit: looking at my other Shure, it's an M447-H, which I guess apparently is a DJ cartridge or something (makes sense as I got it from a friend who is a DJ). It's now my backup tucked into the 'extra headshell' slot on the M3D  . And I picked up a cool stainless steel 45 adapter today at the record store to match the silver finish and get rid of my uncool plastic one. Now I just need to wait for my dust cover and silver Technics headshell to come in and I'll be set for life. Also, I should buy more than one 45 I guess.
Dogen fucked around with this message at 00:19 on Aug 4, 2013 |
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Aug 4, 2013 00:12
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Jerry Cotton posted:Tonearm attached to the lid is not the same as tonearm being the lid. I'm talking about the one where the cart is literally in the lid and the turntable moves sideways to allow the stylus to follow the groove. Can't remember the name of the maker or I'd have linked it. I have to admit, I'm intrigued to see what you're talking about as I thought I was familiar with every last ridiculous turntable design, I even allow a vertical linear tracker in my house.
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Aug 4, 2013 00:23
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Just scored a near mint condition Pioneer SA-8500 amp from the original owner with the original box. Feel like bragging about it He asked $100 for it, but I told him that was a little out of my price range given I like to tinker and tune them up only as a hobby. A couple days later he emailed me back and said I could take it for $20  I was at his house in 20 minutes The unit is essentially in perfect shape. One tiny scratch on one of the knobs, but that's it. A little dust and grime buildup, so I'll post a couple photos once I get it cleaned up.  It has a cool feature I've never seen before, dual bass and treble knobs for separate frequencies. Not my photo, but this is it:  
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Aug 4, 2013 07:36
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Ron Burgundy posted:I have to admit, I'm intrigued to see what you're talking about as I thought I was familiar with every last ridiculous turntable design, I even allow a vertical linear tracker in my house.  Eh, found it but it does actually have a tonearm, it's just a fixed-position one. Still a very weird design. A lot of people seem to think the record player in A Clockwork Orange was a Transcriber but as far as I know it was a Saturn. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IQ_r0Vk9Ct8 3D Megadoodoo fucked around with this message at 12:27 on Aug 4, 2013 |
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Aug 4, 2013 12:11
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BANME, nice find!! I just picked up a Sansui QRX-3500. I'd have no use for quad, but its a decent amp.
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Aug 4, 2013 15:05
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My receiver stopped working recently. Now when it powers on it displays "POWEROFF" and proceeds to turn itself off (as seen in this video I recorded: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UNIRJ3RDTvQ). I tried googling this and some people suggested that maybe the speaker wires are touching, but I checked and as far as I can tell they aren't. Another thing I was thinking is maybe it overheated (yeah I know, it's bad to put your turntable on top of your receiver and I did it anyway). A friend of mine has offered me a replacement receiver that they aren't using but I figured I'd check if I can save this one before swapping. The receiver in question is a Pioneer VSX-D307, I found the manual for it online here: (http://www.muleslow.net/files/audio_manuals/Pioneer_VSX-D307_Operating_Instructions.pdf). Bonxai fucked around with this message at 02:49 on Aug 5, 2013 |
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Aug 5, 2013 02:34
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I think a receiver that new would have the overload relay which I don't hear click over after about 3 seconds as normal, so the mention of a short or an overload somewhere is not out of the question. Does the receiver normally make a click after a couple of seconds of being powered up?
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Aug 5, 2013 02:39
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Ron Burgundy posted:I think a receiver that new would have the overload relay which I don't hear click over after about 3 seconds as normal, so the mention of a short or an overload somewhere is not out of the question. It does, yeah (or it did when it was working). Some information I left out of my previous post: before it started showing "POWEROFF" it was working earlier that day, but the speakers were buzzing loudly all of a sudden. I wiggled the ground wire and the buzzing stopped, but then it started powering off every time after that. The random speaker buzzing used to happen from time to time, and it would usually be fixed just by moving the ground wire around, I always assumed it was just coming loose or something. I tried removing the ground wire entirely and removing the speaker wires and reattaching them, neither fixed it. Bonxai fucked around with this message at 02:52 on Aug 5, 2013 |
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Aug 5, 2013 02:49
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I picked this up a couple of months ago for a very low price and have taken the time to completely clean the whole thing out from inside to out, it was filthy. Here is the thing and turntable: Apologies, photographs just do not do this justice at all.   The thing sounds absolutely incredible and I am very happy with it indeed. However though it does suffer from mild crackling when I adjust the volume. Can anyone tell me how I could get rid of this little problem? Also can anyone recommend some decent speakers to use on this? Nothing that will cost me too much, but just enough to justify it. *EDIT* I paid hundred quid for this, previous owner informs me it has spent the last 25 years in a dry box in the attic. I believe him too! I just had to clean out the inevitable dust and years of finger marks. Myrddin_Emrys fucked around with this message at 15:00 on Aug 7, 2013 |
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Aug 7, 2013 14:54
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Myrddin_Emrys posted:The thing sounds absolutely incredible and I am very happy with it indeed. However though it does suffer from mild crackling when I adjust the volume. Can anyone tell me how I could get rid of this little problem? Clean the potentiometer with an electronics cleaning agent. Should be carried by all electronics / DIY shops, in spray cans. Make sure the spray is free from lubricants or other things that will leave a residue, as that would attract more dirt in the future and gunk it up completely. Edit: Take the cover off. Each knob (volume etc) is mounted on a small component on a circuit board near the front. That component is called a potentiometer. There's usually a small hole on each pot. Spray it in there, and turn the pot back & forth for a while. Once the spray evaporates completely, you can reconnect the amp and test it. Hippie Hedgehog fucked around with this message at 15:04 on Aug 7, 2013 |
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Aug 7, 2013 14:59
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Hippie Hedgehog posted:Clean the potentiometer with an electronics cleaning agent. Should be carried by all electronics / DIY shops, in spray cans. Make sure it's free from lubricants or other things that will leave a residue, as that would attract more dirt in the future and gunk it up completely. Thanks for the speedy reply. Could you let me know what a potentiometer is and where I may locate it please?
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Aug 7, 2013 15:02
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Myrddin_Emrys posted:Thanks for the speedy reply. Could you let me know what a potentiometer is and where I may locate it please? It's a thing that turns, usually with a knob attached. (EDIT: This was not a humorous reply by the way.)
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Aug 7, 2013 15:22
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Myrddin_Emrys posted:Thanks for the speedy reply. Could you let me know what a potentiometer is and where I may locate it please? They're commonly referred to as pots. Jerry Cotton has the gist of it, but if you want more info: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Potentiometer
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Aug 7, 2013 16:35
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Hippie Hedgehog posted:
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Aug 7, 2013 23:42
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Ugh got my replacement SL1200 foot, pulled off the loving glued on spring loaded POS that was on there and of course there is no metal... threaded piece for the foot to screw into. How is that normally attached? Could I probably just pick it up from a stereo repair shop and jam it in there? Edit: to answer my own question, you can get the part and its an easy fix. Guess I'll call around tomorrow to see it I can avoid paying $4 and shipping for a nickel's worth of metal from the Internet. edit2: No one around here even stocks it or knew it was a separate bit (which the store I got the thing from in the first place, that dude is like some kind of encyclopaedia) so I guess the ones online are harvested or someone manufactures them. I went ahead and ordered a few from KAB and a proper 1/4" mat since mine has an 1/8" (I guess this is an M3D thing?) Dogen fucked around with this message at 19:32 on Aug 8, 2013 |
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Aug 8, 2013 01:53
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https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IQi8FUsZ8OY 3D Printing a record - it sorta works! But is that a regular cartridge she's playing it on? I doub't it's good for the needle. Could probably use a different equalizing curve before printing it, too, to get it to sound balanced on a RIAA preamp.
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Aug 11, 2013 17:09
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Hippie Hedgehog posted:https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IQi8FUsZ8OY It's one of the cheapest AT systems 
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Aug 11, 2013 20:36
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Has anyone ever bought a JICO stylus? I was thinking that might be the thing to save up for since I am pretty much done fixing up my 1200 otherwise. I would stick it in my M97xe. Or would I be better off buying an AT440MLa?
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Aug 12, 2013 00:44
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I have a crate SPA-1200 Rackmount amplifier, and I can't seem to find any info on it... ANYWHERE! I think it's the 1200 at least, I don't have it in front of me at the moment so I can't look! This is exactly what it looks like: Does ANYONE have ANY info on this bad boy? I've been using it to power my Alesis Studio1 MKIIs for a while now, and it sounds great and has a decent amount of power - But I'm ready to sell my monitors and I'm including this with it. So if ANYBODY had ANY info on it, PLEASEEEEEE help me out! I'm interested to see some more info on this bad boy and maybe get a price tag too. Thanks!
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Aug 12, 2013 16:55
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I love reading this thread, and I though I had posted pictures of some of the equipment I picked up a couple of months ago, but I guess not. Please excuse the crappy iPhone pics, it's all I have in the city with me: Close up of pretty green lights, walnut veneer, and chrome knobs:  McIntosh MA6100 Preamp/Amp McIntosh MR74 Tuner Bose 901 Series 5 (I really only bought these so I could use take them apart and use them to rehab my Series 3 set, the walnut veneer on these are really terrible, where as mine have real wood veneer) Not pictured is the set of Wharfedale Diamond III speakers that are on the shelf with the equalizer. Craigslist for NOVA & DC have been good to me. I got the McIntosh stuff for a good price, and it is in AMAZING condition. Anything above a quarter turn on the volume knob has the neighbors knocking on the door (and the interior walls have some good sound proofing) I love this set-up so much, I just wish I could have had my turntable and records here, but I didn't feel like bringing all that stuff into the crashpad in DC, so I kept them out at my house. Only downside to the DC crashpad is that I don't get ANY radio reception. I'm on the ground floor of a concrete reinforced building, and bottoms on the windows are like 4 feet off the floor, when I move this gear to my house in the suburbs, I'll be able to use the tuner.
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Aug 14, 2013 22:03
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drat, that's nice stuff. It probably set you back quite a bit even at a good price. My most recent purchase is an ugly as balls JVC JR-s501 monster receiver. I guess it was JVC's top of the line receiver for the time ('78 - '82). It weighs 46 lbs, 22 inches wide, and 120wpc RMS at 8 ohms (160wpc at 4 ohms).  That EQ on the right is an active EQ, as opposed to the common passive tone control knobs found on most receivers. It's supposedly a very good, low distortion EQ system that JVC licensed out to other brands. Apparently McIntosh still uses it today.
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Aug 14, 2013 22:16
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Holy poo poo, the guy I bough my MA6100 from had a MINT JR-s501 he was selling for half the price of the mac at the same time, it is a beast of a receiver. I had my heart set on the McIntosh though, walnut veneer, and green lights!  Do you live somewhere around DC? 
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Aug 14, 2013 22:33
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Haha, I live in Calgary. How much was he selling the JVC for? I got mine for $60 with a free CD player thrown in (why not). It's near mint except the power switch is screwed up. I can see/hear arcing electricity inside it. Replacements are about $25 so no big deal.
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Aug 14, 2013 22:38
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He was selling it for somewhere around $200, but it was with the original box, packing material, and instruction manual. He had apparently received it as a gift in like 80 or 81 from his wife, and never opened it until like 2000. He was a really eccentric guy, but he had some cool gear.
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Aug 14, 2013 22:43
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BANME.sh posted:Haha, I live in Calgary. Goddamn where did you find that deal? I live in Calgary as well and scour kijiji/craigslist, maybe not hard enough?
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Aug 14, 2013 23:04
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KillerMojo posted:Goddamn where did you find that deal? I live in Calgary as well and scour kijiji/craigslist, maybe not hard enough? I have several custom Kijiji searches set up as RSS feeds, which give me hourly notifications for certain keyword/price combos.
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Aug 14, 2013 23:07
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Ahh yeah, I figured it'd be something along those lines. I worked with a guy who had a similar setup, netted me a pair of Definitive BP6's with a bunch of other random gear (some energy surrounds) for $200. Intimidating as a newcomer to the vintage scene, for sure!
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Aug 14, 2013 23:24
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Sorry if this isn't an appropriate place to post this, since this is the Vintage thread, I figured I'd like to get your guys' opinion as well as the Home Audio thread.Scholtz posted:I just bought my first TV (Samsung UN40EH5300) but previous to this, I had my turntable setup (Technics SL-1200mk2, Yamaha CA410, and some Yamaha NS speakers)
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Aug 16, 2013 15:04
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I use vintage speakers for my TV as a 2.0 setup, but my receiver is modern. No subwoofer because I live in a condo and the speakers output plenty bass themselves. I see no problem with using a vintage receiver, but integrating a sub might be hard unless your receiver has a pre-out. In my opinion any kind of external speakers + amp will be miles better than your TV's integrated speakers
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Aug 16, 2013 15:17
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Found this Realistic STA-860 at a thrift shop on my lunch break: It was only $25 and sounded great with some test speakers hooked to it, so I picked it up. It looks rad when it's all lit up, and the red lights on either side of the green above the volume knob dance up and down with the loudness of the music. I'm curious to see what the Expander knob does, besides make more pretty lights turn on, when I get it home.
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Aug 16, 2013 19:45
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The Human Cow posted:Found this Realistic STA-860 at a thrift shop on my lunch break: Nice. http://www.radioshackcatalogs.com/html/1984/h010.html
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Aug 17, 2013 02:19
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BANME.sh posted:I use vintage speakers for my TV as a 2.0 setup, but my receiver is modern. No subwoofer because I live in a condo and the speakers output plenty bass themselves. I see no problem with using a vintage receiver, but integrating a sub might be hard unless your receiver has a pre-out. Ah, yeah. I didn't even think about it but my apartment is on the second floor, so 2.0 is probably a little more considerate than 2.1 anyways. Okay, so new question. One that will make me look like an idiot. I got my 1200 for a steal because the sound was only outputting through one channel. All it needed was a new line out, so it was an easy fix. I wanted to make sure I wouldn't have to do this again, so instead of just putting a straight up line out, I put two female ports leading out, like so:  But, uh, unfortunately I forgot to label which one was which, and I guess I didn't think about it until now. Is there an easy way to identify which cable is which channel without having to open it all back up again?
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Aug 17, 2013 11:10
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Do you have a multimeter, on the headshell the wire colours usually mean: White/Blue = Left +/- Red/Green = Right +/- Just test for continuity between one and it's corresponding lead. e: no multimeter suggestion: take red and green off the cartridge, find the channel that still makes noise. You've just found the left channel. Ron Burgundy fucked around with this message at 11:59 on Aug 17, 2013 |
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Aug 17, 2013 11:56
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I cleaned up this stereo and tried it. Smelled funny and it turns out it had a lot of problems. A bunch of PCB traces were lifting and a lot of components went bad. There were a few large resistors that burned up and took some parts next to them with. I decided I would fix it, but everything I read says it wasn't that great anyway. Instead I've upgraded it. This is what it used to look like inside before I got to it:  This is what I have now:  What I've done is replace the power supply and amp sections with this kit: http://www.audiosector.com/lm4780.shtml It works out to about 100watts per channel I think, but it doesn't matter because it's way louder than I can stand to listen to anyway. It sounds really good as well. Most of the PCBs across the front aren't used, but I left them in to keep the buttons and sliders on the face. The power button works, complete with LED that lights it when on, as do the A/B speaker select and the headphone jack. I was going to keep the PCB with the input selector and phono amp section but the phono amp was dead and half the switches only half work. Right now it's just wired to one input, which is fine for now as I use a PC as my audio source. I have a ODAC board http://www.jdslabs.com/item.php?fetchitem=39 on order. When that arrives I'll put it inside the case so it will connect to the PC with a USB cable. The plans I have now are to replace the input selector with a new rotary switch, get a new dual pot and wire up a line level volume control so I can use the volume knob again, and if I can find a record player and a phono amp kit I'll include that inside as well. The end goal is to have it look stock and keep it's feature set while replacing the internals with the best new tech I can manage to fit in there.
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Aug 20, 2013 00:22
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TomR posted:I cleaned up this stereo and tried it. Ooh, I remember you/this amp from a few weeks ago! I wholly support what you're doing and look forward to seeing the result. Now, you mention that a bunch of the components were bad- was the amp at all functional despite this? I remember you saying that it had a burning smell but I'm curious to know if you could play music through it despite the problems.
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Aug 20, 2013 05:58
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