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cbx posted:Ugh. I got horrible news today. I went to the repair shop to get my A/C checked. Was told that the compressor is blown out. In order to fully replace it, they'd need to replace everything including the compressor, and it would cost me around $725-$750. Does this sound accurate to you guys? I really don't have the money to replace it, but this summer heat is killing me in a black car. That doesn't sound like much of a diagnosis. I have a hard time believing you need "a new everything" because of a bad compressor, even if it did spew black death throughout the system. At the most you need 3 parts and various seals as well as a flush. Sounds like you went to a shop that happens to have an AC machine and not a shop that knows AC.
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Jul 18, 2013 16:23
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leica posted:You sure they said everything? Maybe the dryer also but I can't think of anything else that would have to be replaced. I'd post in the A/C thread, and also get a second opinion at an good A/C shop. Yeah, they said that they would just do the compressor but they can't warranty it without doing the other parts in the assembly as well. I'm really not financially in any condition to pay anything over a couple hundred dollars for ANY repairs right now. I found out my grandmother is dying and I'm going to have to save my money to go down to Georgia soon, so I'm gonna deal with ball sweat for the next few months.
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Jul 19, 2013 20:20
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Motronic posted:That doesn't sound like much of a diagnosis. I have a hard time believing you need "a new everything" because of a bad compressor, even if it did spew black death throughout the system. At the most you need 3 parts and various seals as well as a flush. If I could remember exactly what they told me I'd need, I'd say it here. I was hungry and my memory isn't the best when I'm hungry. They said the individual parts, but all I remember is that they said some sort of tube, something else, and the compressor.
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Jul 19, 2013 20:22
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cbx posted:If I could remember exactly what they told me I'd need, I'd say it here. I was hungry and my memory isn't the best when I'm hungry. They said the individual parts, but all I remember is that they said some sort of tube, something else, and the compressor. And orifice tube, an accumulator and the compressor. That is correct for a compressor the spewed its guts. That's nowhere even close to "everything". An orifice tube is like $3. An accumulator is around $50. The expensive part is the compressor and the labor to flush the system, reassemble, vac and fill.
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Jul 19, 2013 21:54
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Motronic posted:And orifice tube, an accumulator and the compressor. That is correct for a compressor the spewed its guts. This is car guy speak for "do it yourself, pay out the rear end, or drink more water"
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Jul 19, 2013 23:19
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I spent 5 years drinking more water in Texas, and highly recommend paying out the rear end.
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Jul 19, 2013 23:39
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It can't be that awful to do the AC work on a Crown Vic....
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Jul 20, 2013 03:09
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Ask me how I fixed my EATC (electronic automatic temperature control) for 2 dollars when the A/C shop wanted to replace the whole thing for 800 dollars. four tiny O rings
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Jul 20, 2013 03:37
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leica posted:Ask me how I fixed my EATC (electronic automatic temperature control) for 2 dollars when the A/C shop wanted to replace the whole thing for 800 dollars. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cPMbdTpC9Tw I fixed my EATC for about $10, and then I had a fun conversation piece inside my otherwise boring grandpa car 
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Jul 20, 2013 03:55
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Is that involved with the digital climate control or do all Vics have it? I get nervous when I see pictures of dashes being removed.
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Jul 20, 2013 04:05
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EATC is the controller for the digital climate control, and it pulls out from the dash like a radio/etc. The o-ring fix is really easy and well documented. The regular ford style 3 dial control is simpler and doesn't really have any problems associated with it. The goddamned blend door problem I had is a different story and it happened to me because the car was an electrical nightmare and it kept frying blend door actuators. I pulled the dash out of that car 5 times for heater core and blend door problems. I got pretty fast at it. Same story with fuel pumps, too.
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Jul 20, 2013 04:14
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Yeah consider yourself lucky if you don't have EATC.
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Jul 20, 2013 05:13
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Coasterphreak posted:This is car guy speak for "do it yourself, pay out the rear end, or drink more water" Well. Guess I'm screwed then. Like I said before, I've got no tools, little knowledge and little money with which to do a job like this. Thanks for letting me know, though, goons. Better the devil you know, right?
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Jul 20, 2013 07:31
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Jared592 posted:Hmm, this car has about 70k on it. The previous owner was an old guy who didn't drive much. Looks like the shop changed the COP wire/spring thingies/whatever the heck they're called but didn't actually replace the coil packs. Will likely be troubleshooting those soon. Anyone heard horror stories about using cheapass COP units (e.g. Accel) over OEM?
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Jul 20, 2013 08:02
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MSD coils are actually the only decent aftermarket cops you can get, otherwise you gotta get Motorcraft or the OEM variant "Visteon" which are cheaper and in the OP.
Applebees Appetizer fucked around with this message at 16:00 on Jul 20, 2013 |
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Jul 20, 2013 15:55
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Guys, I just saw the most amazing thing: A Crown Vic Police Interceptor with police decals cruising the UK: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=viKXObHdQLc That thing is bigger than their SUV's, and I find that hilarious.
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Jul 29, 2013 17:10
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It looks so out of place on those roads. What's the closest UK equivalent to a Vic? By which I mean large V8 boat. I understand things are a little different over there, I'm just curious what it must seem like to the locals. Did lower ball joints on a rusty 97 town car yesterday. Involved a lot of whizzy wheel, air chisel, and swearing. gently caress all that.
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Jul 29, 2013 19:05
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Glad to hear they call them whizzy wheels on the west coast too. These are what you're referring to, right?
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Jul 29, 2013 19:17
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Actually less a debriding pad and more a rotary cutoff disc to remove the rusted in sway bar links and the half of the ball joint still attached to the hub when it blew apart.
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Jul 29, 2013 20:32
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11BulletCatcher posted:Guys, I just saw the most amazing thing: A Crown Vic Police Interceptor with police decals cruising the UK: Oh hey, I remember that guy. Back when I was in the CVN Facebook group he posted that video and yeah, it was the weirdest drat thing.
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Jul 29, 2013 22:25
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14 INCH DETECTIVE posted:It looks so out of place on those roads. What's the closest UK equivalent to a Vic? By which I mean large V8 boat. I understand things are a little different over there, I'm just curious what it must seem like to the locals.  I'm not sure we have an equivalent, you can see how ridiculously big it looks on our roads in the video and the few people here with the wallet to fill a 20mpg boat will flock to Mercedes/Lexus/Jaguar etc.
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Jul 29, 2013 22:36
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Gord Bless the BL Barge  If they only were better built
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Jul 30, 2013 13:30
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You Am I posted:Gord Bless the BL Barge What is it? It looks, dare I say, FUN.
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Jul 30, 2013 20:07
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11BulletCatcher posted:Guys, I just saw the most amazing thing: A Crown Vic Police Interceptor with police decals cruising the UK: Oh, Youtube. Cool im thinking of getting a crown vic. People slow down for you a lot I bet lol. Oh please make more orgonite tower busters and earth pipes to stop these damm chemtrails and weather modification. Check out my videos everybody.
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Jul 30, 2013 20:17
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11BulletCatcher posted:What is it? It looks, dare I say, FUN. Rover SD1, featured in one of my favorite Top Gear cheap car challenge
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Jul 30, 2013 21:12
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Replaced the lenses the other day. Not the greatest quality, but for $20 I'm not complaining. Old vs. new  Looks ten times better, makes the car look new again!  Now I have to tackle a problem with the emergency brake light not turning off when disengaged, if anyone has any ideas what's up with that it would be swell 
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Aug 3, 2013 19:53
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I'll check mine in a bit but on other fords I've worked on the switch for the parking brake light actually has a threaded adjustment if everything else seems to be in order.
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Aug 3, 2013 20:09
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Is the switch under the pedal? Pretty sure everything is fine, but I'm going to take a temp reading of the rear wheels here soon just to make sure nothing is dragging.
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Aug 3, 2013 22:24
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Now I don't know about Panthers, but most other cars I've owned will also turn on the brake light if the brake fluid is low.  leica posted:Looks ten times better, makes the car look new again! Agreed. It's amazing what new headlamps will do to a car.
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Aug 4, 2013 03:21
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some texas redneck posted:Now I don't know about Panthers, but most other cars I've owned will also turn on the brake light if the brake fluid is low. Oh poo poo I didn't even think of that, gonna check it as soon as I get home.
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Aug 4, 2013 03:45
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some texas redneck posted:Now I don't know about Panthers, but most other cars I've owned will also turn on the brake light if the brake fluid is low. Or if you've got an unequal pressure between front and back - but you should know if you've lost half your braking already.
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Aug 4, 2013 17:25
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Dammit, STR was right, the master was way low on fluid. I'm kinda pissed because I'm pretty sure it's the speed bleeders leaking (haven't had a chance to really look yet though) and I tightened the gently caress out of them after a few were seeping after installation and bleeding the system. And I'm gonna be really pissed if I have to go back to stock bleeders after I spent the money on speeds and chucked the originals. Also a waste of good Super Blue fluid, that poo poo ain't cheap 
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Aug 5, 2013 00:41
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Speed bleeders are junk for exactly this reason. You're better off buying/building a pressure bleeder.
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Aug 5, 2013 00:52
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StormDrain posted:Or if you've got an unequal pressure between front and back - but you should know if you've lost half your braking already. That depends on the car. I know Fords, at one point anyway, did put a switch on the proportioning valve for just that reason (even my 1980 had that, and I found out it worked very well), but on the Hondas I've owned, there was no switch on the proportioning valve. Same with my old Nissan, and I'm pretty sure my Saturn is the same way.
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Aug 5, 2013 01:11
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Motronic posted:Speed bleeders are junk for exactly this reason. Really? I've never heard of it being an issue or I wouldn't have bothered. Bought some for the Miata too.....Anything I can use on the threads to keep them from leaking? Like Hylomar or something?
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Aug 5, 2013 02:15
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Red Loctite. To be fair, tightening the gently caress out of tiny things is asking for a leak.  Do you actually have any visible seepage on the calipers? Keep in mind that your reservoir level drops as your pads wear and the pistons come to rest further and further away from the caliper wall; you don't need to lose any fluid to trigger the warning lamp. That poo poo is clingy, if it's leaking then there's residue somewhere. You just need to find it. Those headlights are looking rad, I thought they didn't have lenses at first.
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Aug 5, 2013 04:18
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Motronic posted:Speed bleeders are junk for exactly this reason. I've never had a problem with leakage (the poppet valve in a speed bleeder is where the open drilled port is on a regular bleeder, so honestly if that's making it leak, you didn't torque the bleeder properly) but the drat things do seem to be good for about one or two uses in the salt belt, so I'm probably not going to buy any more. Gravity bleeding seems to work ok for me anyways. The actual sealing surface of a bleeder valve is the conical surface at the tip, so if that's badly machined, corroded, malformed, or damaged, or the round seat it presses on has any damage, you're going to have a leak no matter what.
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Aug 5, 2013 20:37
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 Parked in Belltown for a half hour earlier.
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Aug 9, 2013 23:06
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Solution: Sticker bomb the black trim.
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Aug 9, 2013 23:24
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I was thinking just keep parking in Belltown and let nature take its course.
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Aug 9, 2013 23:30
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