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muike posted:You either have to go through a proxy service or preorder it on the gundam guy store thing. It's not really worth it imo unless you really love the Gundam Hammer, in which case you'll just be disappointed by the lack of Super Napalm. I'm sure we'll get a yellow LED we can buy separately soon enough. I have always considered Gundam Hammers to be one step above waste plastic, and lord knows I don't need any more bazookas. That is a pretty sweet waterslide sheet though. (for those of you looking to the 2.0 for the second bazooka, be aware that the 3.0 uses different parts for the handle, though the original parts are also included)
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Aug 9, 2013 05:30
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| # ? May 26, 2024 16:28 |
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I love extra armour style stuff that makes a mobile suit look like a walking tank sorta thing and the FA RX-78 is pushing all my buttons in terms of bulk and heavy weaponry. I think it'd look cool with that wind up motor minigun from kotobukiya too.
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Aug 9, 2013 06:18
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If you want bulk and ridiculous weapons, then the FA ZZ is the only acceptable option.   Or the AGE-1 Full Glansa, that's cool too.
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Aug 9, 2013 07:28
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Fauxtool posted:what kits is this made of? This is the ZII (zeta 2). Are you sure it isn't just one of the action figures rather than a kit? mr. stefan posted:I don't think I've ever seen a gold plastic figure, toy, or kit that didnt look like complete rear end out of the box. Something about that color just does not work with injected plastic. The 1/100 Akatsuki looks fantastic, and even has sunken nubs so you won't see any marks on it. It's very pricey for a 1/100 HG though but its on a level of quality close to some older MGs.
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Aug 9, 2013 11:22
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Popehoist posted:This is the ZII (zeta 2). Are you sure it isn't just one of the action figures rather than a kit? It's definitely a mod from the MG ReZel. It has the upper legs and front skirts of the ReZel, and the bulk of the backpack is from the ReZel type C. For comparison:  
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Aug 9, 2013 14:57
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BlitzBlast posted:If you want bulk and ridiculous weapons, then the FA ZZ is the only acceptable option.
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Aug 9, 2013 19:49
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Reviews of the 3.0 are starting to trickle out, and from the sound of things it's pretty much a more detailed 2.0, including goofy oversized hands. Also: The review posted:The 3.0 frame is unique in that some areas of the frame are partly made up of armor parts. You can see these armor parts in the thigh and knee.  Turn A confirmed to be years ahead of its time.
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Aug 10, 2013 01:43
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Jesus, are they literally just using Nu ver ka's hands for 3.0 Gundam? That looks REALLY bad.
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Aug 10, 2013 01:48
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I never cared much about the inner frame gimmick, especially on OYW mobile suits where the morvabul flame thing hadn't been invented yet.  That and I felt like it was a waste of resources on something I wasn't really interested in that could've been better spent on getting certain gimmicks to function better.
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Aug 10, 2013 01:49
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TaurusOxford posted:Jesus, are they literally just using Nu ver ka's hands for 3.0 Gundam? That looks REALLY bad. I expected that, since Nu ver ka's hands were made with RG tech, and RX-78 ver 3 is essentially a 1:100 RG. Though, it doesn't look like his hands have all the joints in his fingers that Nu has.
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Aug 10, 2013 01:58
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Ignimbrite posted:I expected that, since Nu ver ka's hands were made with RG tech, and RX-78 ver 3 is essentially a 1:100 RG. Though, it doesn't look like his hands have all the joints in his fingers that Nu has. I meant that it looks literally like Nu ver ka's hands. As in they didn't down-scale them to fit with a 18cm Gundam.
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Aug 10, 2013 02:01
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muike posted:I never cared much about the inner frame gimmick, especially on OYW mobile suits where the morvabul flame thing hadn't been invented yet. The inner frame makes MGs much more balanced and stable, provides a greater range of articulation, and also allows for the grade's ridiculous part separation since everything just has to slot into the frame rather than connect to each other. It's a heck of a lot more than a gimmick. tl;dr Don't diss the inner frame.
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Aug 10, 2013 02:07
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The RX-78-2 just had huge hands in the show, it's not really all that off.
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Aug 10, 2013 02:39
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Faltion posted:The RX-78-2 just had huge hands in the show, it's not really all that off. Not to mention it's missing the outer shell there, so they probably look a lot better when it's completed.
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Aug 10, 2013 02:55
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The hands are actually fine. Remember that the 3.0 is based on this: and not this:  Neddy Seagoon posted:Not to mention it's missing the outer shell there, so they probably look a lot better when it's completed. Uh, are you looking at the picture of the Turn A's frame? Because the review has a full shot of the completed 3.0 at the top. 
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Aug 10, 2013 04:03
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BlitzBlast posted:Uh, are you looking at the picture of the Turn A's frame? Because the review has a full shot of the completed 3.0 at the top. Um.... Whoops  .I don't know what this thread's done to me, but my first thought upon seeing that picture was they must've had a hell of a time getting the stickers on.
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Aug 10, 2013 04:06
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Now imagine if Katoki had designed it
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Aug 10, 2013 04:19
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I read the gaijin-gunpla review they look better when balled up a bit than when fully extended, but still a lil' weird and square at certain angles. He said he went in with "ugh it's just a big RG" but then it's actually just a really cool kit that's more 2.5 than 3.0, more than just a big RG and it's big enough that all the extra detail is super cool so two thumbs up.
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Aug 10, 2013 04:48
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Fun Fact: The 3.0 isn't called the 3.0 because it's meant to be leaps and bounds better than the 2.0; it's just a marketing name. In fact the guys who named it originally wanted to call it the 30th anniversary version or whatever but couldn't since it wasn't the 30th anniversary anymore.
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Aug 10, 2013 05:06
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Over a year ago I decanted a bunch of Tamiya primer thinking it would help me paint easier in my indoor paint booth and also conserve quite a bit of paint compared to spraying it directly from the can. In retrospect it was a god drat pain in the rear end and made me dread priming and so I was doing a lot less work on building kits. Just how dirty the lacquer makes my airbrush (compared to spraying acrylics) was one thing, but it still made a ton of paint dust. Not to mention it loses its leveling qualities through the decanting process and had to be thinned like crazy just to spray through my airbrush. I finally just went back to spraying from the can and what would've been a 2-3 hour job with the airbrush was done in like 30 minutes, but I'm also out an entire (small) can of primer, whereas with the decanted stuff two big cans could get me through at least 5 or 6 kits. I'd say the cost is worth it compared to the hassle.
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Aug 10, 2013 05:20
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 Today I learned the Turn A and the RX-78-2 2.0 have identical hand pegs. (Though the 2.0's have a tiiiiny little extra bit that make it impossible to fit the Turn A's weapons) BlitzBlast fucked around with this message at 22:43 on Aug 10, 2013 |
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Aug 10, 2013 06:50
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Yeah! I've got mine with the hammer from the 2.0 for double hammer action! What's the general opinion of the Zaku II and Gelgoog 2.0 kits? How's the MG Gouf Custom? I think it's older than the Gouf 2.0 and I'm wary of older kits. Same with an MG Dom of any variety, they're all pretty old too I think.
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Aug 10, 2013 22:37
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If it's a 2.0, it's a great kit. Likewise if it is older than the first MG Aile Strike, it is probably not worth buying unless you really like the design. EDIT: Holy poo poo I've made like half of the posts on this page. Here, have a picture of Volks' (officially licensed by Sunrise) upcoming 1/100 V2 resin kit to make up for how huge my avatar is:  Seems to be based on the RD more than the original model. BlitzBlast fucked around with this message at 22:49 on Aug 10, 2013 |
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Aug 10, 2013 22:43
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MG Gouf Custom is crap, to put it bluntly. Looks great but bad, bad structure. Sorely in need of a redo, which I somewhat doubt will ever come. MG Dom is definitely old as balls but is still a well-done, solid kit and worth having. Head and shoulders above every other kit of its era. BlitzBlast posted:Here, have a picture of Volks' (officially licensed by Sunrise) upcoming 1/100 V2 resin kit to make up for how huge my avatar is: I weep, not only because I'll never own this, but that there's no way the MG (if and when it appears) will look anywhere near as good. edit: I'm honestly surprised that Volks is still a thing. Bimmi fucked around with this message at 11:26 on Aug 11, 2013 |
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Aug 11, 2013 05:29
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I visited the big Volks store in Japan hoping to see some awesome scale models Pretty much all dolfies now. Looking at the prices i can see how they are in business ONLY 60,900yen (with tax)!
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Aug 11, 2013 06:19
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Be happy you're not a Five Star Stories addict. Can y'all post some of your favorite modeling tools? I'm not really happy with my nippers and I feel like I could manage to get a better knife too.
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Aug 11, 2013 06:21
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Given the sick amount of money I've spent on modeling tools over the years, there are very few that I genuinely love. Most get the job done and nothing more, some don't even do that. One tool I do swear by, though, is the #16 scoring blade for X-Acto-compatible art knives. This is a much better solution IMO for nub removal than the standard pointy #11 blade, and is useful for other cleanup tasks as well. I always keep a good supply of the things around (also, I usually have at least 3 hobby knives on the workbench at any given time - one with a #16, one with a #11, and one with a non-fresh blade for dirty work) I have often sung the praises of the Micro-Mark Despruing Tweezer, which is easily my favorite hobby tool of all time, but I have honestly found that ordinary nail clippers make better cuts than any of the pliers-type parts nippers I've used. I used them exclusively for many years, and about the only drawbacks are a certain inability to navigate tight spots or sprues wider than the blade gap. Other than that they worked smashingly (but I'm tweezers 4Lyfe now) Oh, and sanding sticks: these things rule, they were probably the first advanced modeling tool I ever used after hobby knives. There are several kinds, each with different advantages, which I shall attempt to describe as follows: • Foam-backed disposable: By far the most common type, these are a good all-purpose general-use stick. I find them especially useful for leveling curved or seriously uneven surfaces (and scratch removal/polishing with the finer grits) but the slight squishiness which makes them good at those tasks is not so great for finishing perfectly flat or beveled surfaces (which on modern Gunpla is "almost everything") • Sanding wand: This is a sort of plastic "pen" with a replaceable sanding belt. You can swap out belts for different grits as needed, and also roll up a fresh sanding surface as needed. I don't use these nearly as much as I once did, but they are still handy for rough work, and their relative hardness makes them decently useful for flat surfaces and edge work. • Hard sanding sticks: Maybe the only other tool I currently love, these are absolutely indispensable for getting nice flat surfaces and sharp bevels on today's finely-sculpted Gunpla kits. They have absolutely no "give" to them at all, and are much less likely to round out or soften flat planes and sharp edges than foam-backed sticks. You can kind of make your own by gluing sandpaper to sheet plastic, which I do on occasion, but I still consider these very much worth having. WAVE is the only manufacturer offering these that I am currently aware of. Really, just go to micromark.com or look up Gunze Sangyo tools on one of the Japanese sites and I'm sure your mind will be properly blown. Good tools is good to have. edit; also, toothpaste makes an excellent plastic polish, and is one of the few things you'll ever use in this hobby which is completely safe and non-toxic. Bimmi fucked around with this message at 12:06 on Aug 11, 2013 |
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Aug 11, 2013 07:29
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I use this for basically everything. I love this little guy.
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Aug 11, 2013 08:17
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Meow Tse-tung posted:I use this for basically everything. I love this little guy. I have this knife, and it is AWESOME. SOG knives rock in general
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Aug 11, 2013 08:27
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I am cheap as gently caress and use a $5 X-acto knife (#11 blade), a cheap pair of nippers (until recently I was using some Radioshack wirecutters), Q-tips, a toothbrush, a Gundam marker, and a bottle of furniture finisher. Haven't had any trouble, and probably never will. You don't need super fancy stuff. You totally need super fancy paint though, spend all your money on that instead.
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Aug 11, 2013 09:50
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BlitzBlast posted:a bottle of furniture finisher. Indulge my curiosity, please.
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Aug 11, 2013 11:12
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You wanna know the best gloss coat for acrylic paints in all of existence? This stuff, right here. Used to be called Pledge with Future Shine, but now it's just multisurface finish. This poo poo is incredible. It's cheap, it's self-leveling, it comes in a big bottle, you can find it in most convenience stores, you can brush or spray it on, and you can even use it to make your floor/furniture look better! Just make sure you don't mess up and buy the regular Pledge furniture cleaner, because that's totally different.
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Aug 11, 2013 12:01
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Oh hell yeah, that stuff is basically the modeler's ambrosia. I've little direct experience with it myself (since I never finish anything) but it is rumored to smooth finishes, protect from chipping, seal over decals, and you can even add flat acrylic clear base (or supposedly talcum powder, but you didn't hear it from me) to create a less-glossy or flat topcoat finish. The Future/Pledge thing is a massively big deal, Google it and you will probably find hundreds of pages regarding its use.
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Aug 11, 2013 12:21
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These for the initial cut off the sprue: http://www.amazon.com/Xuron-410-Micro-Shear-Flush-Cutter/dp/B000IBOOWQ/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1376236917&sr=8-3&keywords=xuron The standard Exacto for trimming off the remnants of the sprue: http://www.amazon.com/Xacto-X3311-Precision-Knife-Blades/dp/B0000DD1N4/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1376238022&sr=8-4&keywords=xacto Some needle files for shaping: http://www.amazon.com/Nicholson-Pie...le+nicholson+xf A pin vise and small drill bits: http://www.amazon.com/Anytime-Tools-piece-Small-Numbered/dp/B005AX72LC/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1376237833&sr=8-3&keywords=pin+vise Small screwdrivers: http://www.amazon.com/Tool-135-0916...on+screw+driver With the small screw drivers, take a standard slot-head driver and file it into a micro chisel. This is a great tool for carving out detail, removing sprue material, or cleaning up after gluing pieces together.
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Aug 11, 2013 17:26
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Bimmi posted:MG Gouf Custom is crap, to put it bluntly. Looks great but bad, bad structure. Sorely in need of a redo, which I somewhat doubt will ever come. Yeah that's what I was worried about for the Gouf Custom. It got the HG redo a few years ago, but I doubt an MG will ever come since it didn't pop up just after the Gouf 2.0. I'm glad to hear that about the Dom though, I love that chunky guy. I just use a craft knife, needle files, pin vise and snippers all the regular stuff. The only thing I use that's not a thing everybody uses is this 6 way nail file/buffer block it has 3 different grades of sandpaper ranging from pretty fine to REALLY fine and then the 3 buffer parts are good for removing scuff marks left by filing. It's a little squidgy and depending on how rough I am on it will only last 1.5 MG kits before the two roughest sandpapers start getting tears in them, but I've had some nice results completely removing white stress marks from stuff with it. Also usable to make your nails look nice!
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Aug 11, 2013 18:44
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Midjack posted:Update: they are gone for good. Earlier in the year the original owner fell out with his partner and the new guy couldn't get stuff like the first guy could so they imploded pretty quickly. Update to the update: Tokyo Hunter is back as of a few weeks ago, it seems.
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Aug 11, 2013 23:56
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BlitzBlast posted:You wanna know the best gloss coat for acrylic paints in all of existence? I've heard tons of good poo poo about this stuff, and seeing as I use acryilics and want a really good gloss topcoat whenever I get around to MG Sinanju, I think I'll try this out. However, my local store only seems to stock the finish for 'sealed wood flooring.' Do I want the multi-surface specifically or will this kind work too?
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Aug 12, 2013 00:34
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Multi-surface would probably be better, but as long as it says finish it's an acrylic gloss. So it'll still work. A handy guide:  (or at least it was handy until the name got changed)
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Aug 12, 2013 01:14
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Just got back from otakon, picked up the RG Zephyranthes (Original Flavor, not the chunky space version,) HG Gerbera Tetra, and the MG Wing Gundam. Added them to the backlog with Turn A, trying to decide which one to build first. (probably going to use the gerbera as practice for when I get an airbrush)
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Aug 12, 2013 01:43
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| # ? May 26, 2024 16:28 |
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Another thumbs up from me on the Future. You can spray it with no thinner, and you can mix it with a flat base to get matte or semigloss. You can also mix it with things like Vallejo paints in lieu of thinner or with low amounts of paint to make translucent colors. I've talked about nippers plenty in the thread so I wont repeat myself on that. I also am not a big fan of the #11 blades for Gunpla, I much prefer the thicker heavy blades like Excel make. I don't know the number but they're wider and not as long. I picked up one of these: http://www.micromark.com/seam-scraper,7547.html seam scrapers a while back and I find it a good multi tool for a all kinds of thing along with what it was made for: removing flash. I highly recommend picking up some sort of set of small files. I have the Tamiya 3-piece set and while they're decent files I don't really recommend them because of how much they cost over how many files you get. You can find 10+ piece sets of files for hobby/woodworking use, you'd just probably have to clean the oils off them prior to use with plastic. Also I highly am in favor of the tamiya putty over anything else, cause I used squadron red putty for a while and god is it awful.
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Aug 12, 2013 21:59
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