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Well, the bike tops out at around 4k RPM (out-of-box 500cc engine), and I can hit that limit while in neutral or first gear at under 15% throttle (though it takes a bit to speed up). The bogging down is directly (and I mean directly) linked to throttle position. Not load, not RPM, not engine temperature. I can bring the bike up to 20mph or so and then dump it into first gear (which is incredibly low on this engine, spinning it above the RPM limit) and try to "pull the engine past" the stall point, but as long as the throttle is above a certain point, the engine tries to die. I can hover right at that point to try to get as much power as possible, and the moment I go past it the power dies and everything pops and bucks. I can then roll the throttle forwards to below that point and the engine picks up and gains all power again.
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Aug 9, 2013 01:42
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| # ? Jun 6, 2024 04:30 |
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Geirskogul posted:Well, the bike tops out at around 4k RPM (out-of-box 500cc engine), and I can hit that limit while in neutral or first gear at under 15% throttle (though it takes a bit to speed up). The bogging down is directly (and I mean directly) linked to throttle position. Not load, not RPM, not engine temperature. I can bring the bike up to 20mph or so and then dump it into first gear (which is incredibly low on this engine, spinning it above the RPM limit) and try to "pull the engine past" the stall point, but as long as the throttle is above a certain point, the engine tries to die. I can hover right at that point to try to get as much power as possible, and the moment I go past it the power dies and everything pops and bucks. I can then roll the throttle forwards to below that point and the engine picks up and gains all power again. Your needle circuit is out of whack. Cannot tell if its too rich or lean from the description. Take the bike out, warm it up and then recreate the failure. Then pull the plugs and see which way they are going. If it's bogging, I predict too rich, but plugs will tell for sure. Then adjust the needle (if possible) and/or the main (CVs use the main all the way through) to compensate for the richness/leaness. HTH
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Aug 9, 2013 02:51
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It's weird that this would happen after two thousand miles of steady riding very suddenly. Maybe it's still dirty and lean.
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Aug 9, 2013 03:09
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Geirskogul posted:It's weird that this would happen after two thousand miles of steady riding very suddenly. Maybe it's still dirty and lean. Or your air filter is clogged and choking off the airflow?
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Aug 9, 2013 03:13
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Check plugs, it's probably a failing coil or plug is really fouled.
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Aug 9, 2013 03:33
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I will check those tomorrow. Thanks for the tips. Is there a difference between revving while neutral and revving while under load re:spark? I can rev to the limit while in neutral as long as I don't pass that point in the throttle movement (because at that point the engine still tries to die even while in neutral on the centerstand), and I can rev pretty high in first gear while moving as long as I don't pass that point in the throttle. I can go in any gear up to that point in the throttle and it is fine, then it shits itself the moment I cross it. And actually blocking the airflow with my hand over the filterless bell or tape over half of the filter media while it is running allows the engine to (coughingly) jump and spin past that point it gets stuck on. I haven't changed anything in the setup since letting it sit.
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Aug 9, 2013 04:15
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Geirskogul posted:I will check those tomorrow. Thanks for the tips. I'm really keen to know what this is as well. My friend's CX400 does the exact same thing even though I've had the carbs apart and cleaned them anal-retentively. The left cylinder just shuts off when you exceed more than a certain amount of throttle.
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Aug 9, 2013 04:20
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Bugdrvr posted:good advice Cheers! Thanks for all that good stuff, I'll look around on eBay.
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Aug 9, 2013 04:35
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Geirskogul posted:It's weird that this would happen after two thousand miles of steady riding very suddenly. Maybe it's still dirty and lean. Punctured carb diaphragm might do this. My KLR developed a hole in the diaphragm all of the sudden once. The symptoms were a little different -- instead of bogging down it would simply fail to accelerate any beyond a point, but it wasn't a very big puncture.
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Aug 9, 2013 05:19
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As the guys in the supermoto thread know, my supermoto'd DRZ-400 E's engine decided to add more power by intaking extra air (that is how it works?) So I guess I'm in the market for a new engine. I'm on holiday at the moment, and the bike was recovered to a friend's garage. It's on the cards to strip the old engine down and have a look inside, but I'm assuming the whole engine is toast. I'll keep the carbs, because they're the E ones and are (so I've been told) better. Two questions: 1) Where's the best place to get a new engine? Either -E or -S/SM, don't really mind. I've had a quick glance at eBay, but they don't seem cheap. Was mainly sanity checking that there's no easier way, and I can't just get the dealers to get me a cheap new engine. As a follow up, if I were to acquire an -S/SM engine, what bits from the old -E engine would be worth swapping on? 2) How involved would swapping engines out be? I'm not completely mechanically inept, just mainly avoided the engines/carbs beyond oil changes. And how long would it take? That's assuming I could just buy a nearly working engine, fill it with oil and drop it in? Is that how it works? God, I hate being clueless
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Aug 9, 2013 12:19
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Orange Someone posted:As the guys in the supermoto thread know, my supermoto'd DRZ-400 E's engine decided to add more power by intaking extra air (that is how it works?) 1) Ebay is my best guess. Try Thumpertalk and SupermotoJunkie forums as well as sometimes people part out bikes there for cheap. 2) Not hard, it's just an unbolt and bolt in kind of thing. I think it's more about patience and being methodical with reconnecting everything properly. The carb would be a direct swap. As far as parts to save, if you get an S/SM motor you might want to use the thinner gaskets on the E motor (buy new gaskets, don't reuse!) to bump up compression a bit. Also, depending on how worn they are you might want to use the E cams on the SM motor if you get one as they're more aggressive. If you have a Manual Cam Chain Tensioner also swap that over. You'll definitely want the FCR carb from the E model as well.
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Aug 9, 2013 16:09
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Orange Someone posted:Engine woes You can also try Craigslist. I've seen complete engines go for super cheap quite often there. Chances are 50/50 it may even be legit and not stolen! Either way, should cut down on shipping cost if you can source it locally.
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Aug 9, 2013 20:35
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Geirskogul posted:I will check those tomorrow. Thanks for the tips. I took the carb apart again today (removed absolutely everything possible including the press-fit slow jet) and put it in some carb cleaner in an ultrasound bath. I also checked my wiring to the coil (which isn't cracked or anything at all) and replaced the spark plug. Exact same behavior. I ordered a Mikcarb (UCAL-made Mikuni variant) VM30-84 carburetor off of Ebay for around $90 shipped. It's not CV, but the Enfield iron-barrel engine has used that carb along with the Amal MK1 for around 35 years now. I know mine is the AVL-designed "lean-burn" engine, but all signs I've seen the past four years reading the Enfield forums is that both the AVL and the IB are 500cc, 84mmx90mm piston/stroke, very similar valve timing, very similar power (16-20hp vs 17-23hp) engines. Plus, it fits without any other modifications, and I can't find poo poo for parts at all for my BS29 carburetor. Worst-case scenario I use it for a lawnmower or something.
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Aug 10, 2013 01:00
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JP Money posted:1) Ebay is my best guess. Try Thumpertalk and SupermotoJunkie forums as well as sometimes people part out bikes there for cheap. Thanks for the reply. I've done some browising of TT and SMJ, nothing jumps out at me. Best option at the moment is an S/SM engine on eBay for £950 or so. Absolutely nothing on Craigslist. Patience I normally have. Especially as it's not my primary bike. And that's a good list of bits I'll make sure to hang on to. I haven't got a manual CCT, would it be worth getting one if I'm doing all this work already?
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Aug 10, 2013 18:44
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Orange Someone posted:Thanks for the reply. People say after the '05's they're not needed IIRC but honestly it's like 40 bucks and it's cheap insurance. I've bought one for every bike I've hard I'm pretty sure.
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Aug 11, 2013 02:41
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So it's been awhile, but I'm the guy who bought the '81 Honda CX500 and has been essentially running into nothing but issues and shipping errors since day 1. My main issue right now are the front brakes. I bought a new master cylinder online, but I couldn't get any pressure in the system at all. I recently bought a new (to me) brake caliper and basically I have the exact opposite problem now. Originally my brake caliper would move ever so slightly, but I couldn't get any pressure in the system. Now, however, there's so much pressure in the system that brake fluid is literally squirting out of my master cylinder as I pump the brake lever! I open up the bleed valve on the brake caliper and it does bleed out as I pump, but there is still significant leakage in the MC due to high pressure. I'm thinking of getting new brake lines, will that help my situation at all? Besides that I'm at a loss. It doesn't look like the caliper is moving, though it does bleed fluid pretty good. I suppose it may have been an installation error on my part as well, I just don't know. Any help would be appreciated! Again, as said up top, this is testing it with two new master cylinders off ebay (the Chinese rebuild ones), original brake lines, and a newish brake caliper.
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Aug 11, 2013 22:40
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So if your master cylinder was new but you weren't getting any pressure, I assume your brakes weren't leaking at all? You probably still had an absolute rear end-load of air in the lines from the install. Is this caliper used or a reman? Your CX only has a single front disc right? slidebite fucked around with this message at 00:01 on Aug 12, 2013 |
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Aug 11, 2013 23:43
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Question While on your motorcycle.. Do you wave to other motorcycles? Do you wave to scooters? Who waves back? Seems to me that scooter riders feel ashamed or something because they always avert their eyes if I wave and never wave back. Thinking maybe I shouldn't be waving to them or something.
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Aug 12, 2013 14:26
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Does anyone have experience renting a motorcycle in NYC? I'm looking to do a day trip with a friend for their birthday and wasn't sure the best way to go about renting.
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Aug 12, 2013 14:41
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SB35 posted:Question
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Aug 12, 2013 14:42
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Scooters will always be an inconsistent group for waves, if only because a large portion of owners bought one solely for cheap transportation with little knowledge (or interest) in the recreational and community side of riding. They're probably confused as to why all those motorcycle riders keep flashing "gang signs" at them.
SimplyCosmic fucked around with this message at 15:21 on Aug 12, 2013 |
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Aug 12, 2013 15:19
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SB35 posted:Do you wave to other motorcycles? Yes, and yes - if they wave to me. I wave back.
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Aug 12, 2013 17:03
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I nod to bicyclists out of habit, as I've been in the urban cycling community for years (and usually nod to other riders on the road). They sometimes nod back, and usually look a little surprised. Also I have a gold-mirrored spaceman helmet, so it's probably sort of surreal. Question: My carbs seem to behave decently well. Bike revs a little hesitantly when it's not warmed up, which is no surprise. What I'm wondering about is this: Sometimes, my bike fully warmed up, while waiting alone at a stoplight, I try to give a few quick revs in neutral. I do this because I'm bored and it's fun to see how quickly the engine responds. The first rev is often a bit hesitant, but the subsequent ones are faster. Bike fully warmed up. Why would this be? The warmed-uppedness of my engine hasn't changed between the first and the next rev, and I don't imagine the carb has gummed up in the 10 seconds I was waiting at the light.
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Aug 12, 2013 19:13
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SB35 posted:Question Wal-Mart sells some little lovely electric Chinese moped things that do about 20KPH flat out and there is this guy on one that is completely geared up (bike helmet, armor, boots) and he always waves so I'll initiate a wave with him. I think he's a little slow upstairs but it's pretty cute. 
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Aug 12, 2013 19:31
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slidebite posted:I generally don't initiate a wave anymore, but I will try to respond to everyone that waves at me. Ever notice some folks (Harley riders mostly in my experience) play "wave chicken"? With my wave-back philosophy I occasionally find myself thinking "drat I missed it".
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Aug 12, 2013 19:42
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Orange Someone posted:So I guess I'm in the market for a new engine. I posted on Craigslist that I was looking for an engine for my SM as a long shot, but ended up getting two responses by the end of the week and snagged one for $400. Not sure you'll get that lucky but that is definitely where I'd start. The swap itself isn't that hard. Just have the factory service manual handy, it's mostly unbolting poo poo and I didn't need to buy any special tools or anything. I ended up doing it over a week and that was me being lazy, you could probably do it over a weekend even as your first time pulling a motor. There aren't any real surprises. If you end up getting an SM motor you will need to keep the thermostat cover as they're different designs. I would consider keeping the clutches, cams, cam chain, transmission, whatever's salvageable, or part it out.
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Aug 12, 2013 21:47
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slidebite posted:So if your master cylinder was new but you weren't getting any pressure, I assume your brakes weren't leaking at all? You probably still had an absolute rear end-load of air in the lines from the install. Yeah no leaking from the brake lines at all. Would air in the lines force the fluid through the master cylinder? I mean the pressure is so high that fluid is leaking out of the master piston! I may have screwed up the install so I'm going to remount the caliper and try again. It's funny: I went from having NO pressure on the master cylinder to SO much that it's shooting out of every orifice. And the CX just has on front disk, yeah.
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Aug 12, 2013 23:49
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Your piston boot is probably ripped (on the caliper side), and having rebuilt a CX master cylinder, what came with your kit? New piston, snap rings and seals?
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Aug 12, 2013 23:54
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SaNChEzZ posted:Your piston boot is probably ripped (on the caliper side), and having rebuilt a CX master cylinder, what came with your kit? New piston, snap rings and seals? Yup I have all of those extra. The weird thing is that I tried an extra MC I had lying around, and THAT started leaking straightaway too from the same place, right at the master piston. Is it a weird coincidence, or did I just blow out the seal on TWO MC's now? 
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Aug 13, 2013 00:11
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Boru posted:Yup I have all of those extra. The weird thing is that I tried an extra MC I had lying around, and THAT started leaking straightaway too from the same place, right at the master piston. Is it a weird coincidence, or did I just blow out the seal on TWO MC's now? Could be a coincidence, could be bad luck. When you rebuilt it did you use everything that was included? OR did you not rebuild it and I'm totally reading this wrong haha.
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Aug 13, 2013 00:34
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If you wave at a scooter they will give you the exact same look as if you walked up to them on the sidewalk and started talking to them like you're old friends. It's not that they won't wave back, it's they have no clue waving is even "a thing".
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Aug 13, 2013 00:36
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SaNChEzZ posted:Could be a coincidence, could be bad luck. When you rebuilt it did you use everything that was included? OR did you not rebuild it and I'm totally reading this wrong haha. Sorry yeah, I'm being vague. At first it was a *new (from China) MC. I've had pretty bad luck with these eBay numbers before, and this was my 3rd. After I saw the dripping, I had an extra rebuild kit, so I rebuilt the master piston, being sure to seal it up good with the clip. After that it still would drip out when I squeezed the lever. That being said, the front brakes actually work now! I got a good amount of pressure in the lines, sealed it up, then took it out for a shakedown ride around the block a few times (as this was my first time riding it in months, I gotta say it felt pretty good). As I rode I noticed that there would be some spongyness in the front brake lever, but after I pumped it once or twice it would stiffen right up. I parked the bike for the night and I'm not noticing any leaking now, but then again the handlebars are leaned TOWARD the bike, making it so nothing would leak out the master piston at this rate anyway. To see if the pressure is really coming from the MC, I'm doing the trick where you tie down the brake lever and leave it over night to stiffen things up. I'll check tomorrow and see if there's still leakage. If there is I guess that I A) Didn't rebuild the drat master piston right (maybe I didn't seal it as good as I thought) or B) The MC is faulty. Is my logic in line here? Haha.
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Aug 13, 2013 02:28
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OK so I don't really know too much about bikes but I recently got a 1980 Kawasaki kz550. Anyhow the bike runs pretty well but I didn't like where the clutch engaged so I wanted to adjust it. So I got my manual and followed the instructions, loosened all the right nuts and what not along the handle and cable, and then opened up the clutch adjustment cover, and loosened the locking nut, and then loosened the clutch screw, then re-tightened it to where it started getting hard and then backed it off a half turn as per the manual's instructions. I tightened up everything and made sure the clutch lever had a tiny amount of play (2-3mm) and then tried it out. So it seems like when my clutch lever is fully depressed I can shift (I tried this all with the engine off) and I can roll the bike but it seems like it still has a lot of resistance. For instance when the bike is in neutral it can roll really easily and I figured with the clutch fully depressed it should roll exactly the same as it should when it neutral but I can feel a lot of resistance. Now when the lever is fully released the bike is fully engaged I believe because I cannot roll it when in gear. Any suggestions, this is my first bike, so I am kinda new to all of this.
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Aug 13, 2013 05:14
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Nope. A bike in neutral and a bike in gear with the clutch engaged will feel different when you're pushing it. In neutral it rolls smoothly, there is drag the other way.
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Aug 13, 2013 05:25
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thylacine posted:Nope. A bike in neutral and a bike in gear with the clutch engaged will feel different when you're pushing it. In neutral it rolls smoothly, there is drag the other way. Oh really? Huh, I always figured it was supposed to be like a car, where when I have the clutch fully engaged it rolls just like neutral. That's weird, why does it act like that? I'm so confused, how does the clutch work then? So I should just turn it on and see where it engages with the engine running?
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Aug 13, 2013 05:40
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ScienceAndMusic posted:Oh really? Huh, I always figured it was supposed to be like a car, where when I have the clutch fully engaged it rolls just like neutral. That's weird, why does it act like that? I'm so confused, how does the clutch work then? So I should just turn it on and see where it engages with the engine running? Motorcycles have wet clutches, which means they run in engine oil. When the bike is in gear, the oil provides some resistance even when the clutch is fully disengaged.
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Aug 13, 2013 05:57
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https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RKzowCJG7WA
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Aug 13, 2013 06:19
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Thanks everyone, this is really informative! 
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Aug 13, 2013 06:32
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I'm looking to get my first bike soonish, probably a cruiser type like a Vulcan 500cc maybe, still looking, need to sit on a few and see what I like. Going to take the MSF course in Sep when it cools down a bit, but should I be worried about my driveway? It's gravel, fairly long, ~300 feet, goes uphill and around the back of the hill to the house. It's got a couple rough spots from poor drainage.
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Aug 13, 2013 07:50
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Just don't get too enthusiastic with the brakes/the throttle and gravel is no big deal. Don't be tense either.
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Aug 13, 2013 08:23
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