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carrion kit posted:After getting the bike back from the shop the rear brake works just fine but it's definitely having engine issues. I took it out last night and this morning and ran into the same problem. Ran perfectly fine off it being cold but once it warmed up, like 15-20 minutes in, the response turned to dogshit. Bike is running at 180° right it the middle of the temp range but there was almost no power getting to the wheel. Twisting the throttle basically just shot the RPMs up but barely put any power down. I had to walk the throttle up slowly from a dead stop so that I wasn't running it at like 10k RPM while it slowly caught up. Even at speed, 40-50mph, hitting the gas served to just spin up RPM but barely put power down. Again, the bike ran fine while cold. I suspect it was overheating on my first ride because I was giving it the mustard and over revving it. I stated earlier that it has an aftermarket Termignoni exhaust. Is this more likely an ECU / tuning issue or something else? If its revving up but not sending power to the wheel its more likely that your clutch is toast or way out of adjustment.
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Aug 15, 2013 14:40
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Nerobro posted:Have you checked the stator? If you have, tell us what the readings were. Keep in mind, that a shot stator, can kill a r/r. A shot r/r, can kill a stator... It's a unhappy situation. I got 80+ Vac on all the stator leads in a no load test which is up to spec as per the Clymer manual. The R/R was reading 13.5 Vdc with high beams on @ 5k rpm on a freshly charged battery which is just barely in the acceptable range according to the manual. I'm reading the rpm from the instrument cluster and mine is kind of lovely, but it wasn't going up much higher than that.
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Aug 15, 2013 15:40
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ScienceAndMusic posted:This makes a lot of sense. I just worry that my slip area is too small, but I think I just need to get used to it. Would it be a bad idea to give the clutch more dead zone so that the friction zone is closer to where my grip is strongest? IE. I feel like I have most of my control in my hand when my fingers are somewhat curled, and where my friction zone is my clutch is so far out that my fingers are almost fully extended. So would it be stupid of me to add more "dead zone" (I don't know how to explain it but where the clutch isn't really pulling any wire, just it wiggels back and forth freely) so that the friction zone is closer to ~50%? Buy aftermarket levers that are adjustable for distance from the bar. Biggest reason to spend on aftermarket levers is for that comfort from that additional adjustability. Or some bikes (mostly kawasakis) come with adjustable levers stock.
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Aug 15, 2013 15:57
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Christ, doesn't the shop test ride it after working on it (the guy with the Ducati?) I wouldn't take it home again w/out a test ride right then and there to make sure everything works. Right now, your clutch cable probably needs adjusting.
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Aug 15, 2013 16:14
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thylacine posted:Christ, doesn't the shop test ride it after working on it (the guy with the Ducati?) nope, it'll be a hydraulic clutch. And it sounds exactly like it's slipping. They might take it for a ride, but if it's just a spin around the block, and not revving it out in high gear, they might not have caught it.
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Aug 15, 2013 17:41
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Linedance posted:nope, it'll be a hydraulic clutch. And it sounds exactly like it's slipping. They might take it for a ride, but if it's just a spin around the block, and not revving it out in high gear, they might not have caught it. Could also be the slave cylinder. They tend to start to fail when hot, my housemate's multi 620 had the same problem. You won't pick up on it on a test ride cause it works fine until it gets hot. If it's the OEM one, it needs to be replaced at this point pretty much regardless with a quality aftermarket item, rather than the poo poo OEM part.
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Aug 15, 2013 17:51
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IIRC the 748/916 clutch needs periodically blowing out to stop it slipping (dry clutch, old clutch powder builds up between the plates) - it might be that simple.
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Aug 15, 2013 18:30
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What's the CA approved method of helping out an ignition switch that barely likes to turn. I have the following: Dry Lube (used for cable lubrication), WD-40, and White Lithium Grease.
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Aug 16, 2013 00:58
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XYLOPAGUS posted:What's the CA approved method of helping out an ignition switch that barely likes to turn. I have the following: Dry Lube (used for cable lubrication), WD-40, and White Lithium Grease. Graphite powder, I keep a tube in my tank bag and apply it every other month or so as soon as it starts sticking.
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Aug 16, 2013 01:02
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Interesting. That's what all the other forums said. For some reason, my seasoned motorcyclist friend said "definitely don't use graphite."
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Aug 16, 2013 01:04
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Graphite is the only thing you want to use, unless it's an ignition barrel from the 50's that has live contacts on the inside instead of the back. Never, EVER use a liquid lubricant inside of a lock. Also WD-40 isn't a lubricant so stop thinking of it as such.
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Aug 16, 2013 01:38
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Geirskogul posted:Never, EVER use a liquid lubricant inside of a lock.
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Aug 16, 2013 02:15
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Rev. Dr. Moses P. Lester posted:Why is this? Special metals in there? Probably because they can dry tacky or attract dirt and grime. Graphite is cheap, works great, and is useful around the house as well.
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Aug 16, 2013 02:18
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So I have a question. I have a small oil leak that I am 99% sure is coming from my valve cover gasket, so I want to make sure it's all torqued down. And it's a royal pain in the rear end to get at. Yes, that is a rubber blanket covering the entire top end of the engine and yes, that's actually after taking about half the poo poo off. Anyhow, even when I get more of the poo poo off and pull the mat back, I can already tell it's going to be too tight to get in there with my torque wrench and 5mm hex socket. Really, there is not much room other than a hex key.  That's frame immediately to the left of the bolt head, about 3 finger widths away. Ideas on how/what to use to get in there? I want to be pretty accurate ensuring everything is torqued down. Edit: That's not frame, that's actually a motor mount. I'd really prefer not to take that off but I guess I can if I need to. slidebite fucked around with this message at 03:27 on Aug 16, 2013 |
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Aug 16, 2013 02:59
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What bike is that so I can never buy it?
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Aug 16, 2013 03:32
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slidebite posted:Ideas on how/what to use to get in there? I want to be pretty accurate ensuring everything is torqued down. Does the ratcheting portion of the head on your torque wrench slide out? If so, get a 5mm insert key then cut down a hex key then go to town. Otherwise, drop the engine or liberal use of universal adapters.
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Aug 16, 2013 03:53
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I've never needed to use a torque wrench on a rocker cover, this is baffling.
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Aug 16, 2013 04:06
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MotoMind posted:What bike is that so I can never buy it? C14 and ZX14 issue. And yeah, it's a loving tight disaster to get at the top of the motor. That blanket over the entire top of the motor made me  when I first saw it a few months back.Did some more research and it is a super common problem on the 06+ ZX14 and 08+ C14. Turns out they have 2 major leak areas, an improperly sized cam sensor O-Ring right from the factory (which I already fixed) and a poorly designed head cover gasket. I wanted to ensure it was torqued down properly to make sure that wasn't the cause but but the folks in the other forums assured me that's almost certainly not it. The cover bolts have a shoulder which only go in a certain amount and they really don't back off in anyones experience. Fix is to replace the gasket (huge pain in the rear end which I will need to do in a couple years when I check do the valve clearances anyhow) or do a ghetto fix. I'm going to do the ghetto fix first which is essentially making the front of the motor squeaky clean with brake clean, letting it dry, and use Right Stuff silicone along the gasket joint of the head/rocker cover. Hell, I've got nothing to lose so I'm going to try it. Normally I'd never do it, but what the hell. I'll give it my best shot. I am NOT looking forward to doing my valves in 2015-16 time frame. Maybe by that time I'll buy a different bike  Terminus Est posted:Does the ratcheting portion of the head on your torque wrench slide out? If so, get a 5mm insert key then cut down a hex key then go to town. Otherwise, drop the engine or liberal use of universal adapters. Slavvy posted:I've never needed to use a torque wrench on a rocker cover, this is baffling.
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Aug 16, 2013 04:49
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Just grind down an allen and hit it that way.
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Aug 16, 2013 05:13
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thylacine posted:Christ, doesn't the shop test ride it after working on it (the guy with the Ducati?) After I called them to say it's probably having a clutch issue the guy who worked on it goes "I wheelied that thing down the street, seemed fine to me."  I'm going to see if I can open the clutch up and blast it with compressed air as some earlier poster said it may just be dust, if not it's going back to the dealership tomorrow. edit: holy poo poo that's a lot of dust ! going to need to go buy some canned air for this. wane tendo fucked around with this message at 14:24 on Aug 16, 2013 |
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Aug 16, 2013 14:05
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carrion kit posted:After I called them to say it's probably having a clutch issue the guy who worked on it goes "I wheelied that thing down the street, seemed fine to me." If that doesn't do the trick, ride it until it's fully warmed up and slipping then get your rear end over to the shop, go inside and tell the mechanic to get on it right then and there and see for himself. If he gives you poo poo about being busy, tell him to just go up and down the street for two minutes, he'll have time for that (otherwise just kick him in the nuts, the natural end point of any conversation not going ones way). Alternatively, just ride past them all day long, waiving with your left hand while the bike slips the clutch.
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Aug 16, 2013 15:16
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Well I went through one bottle of canned air and I still wasn't satisfied I got all the dust out so I took the fairing off and rode it 100ft to the Mobile station and used the car tire electric pump to blow the poo poo out of it. Three dollars later and I'm pretty confident I got the majority of it. It seems a lot louder now / rattling but I haven't put the clutch cover back on yet. Also why the gently caress is canned air like 10$? That's some bullshit. Going to put it back together and ride it after work to see how it pulls now.
wane tendo fucked around with this message at 15:33 on Aug 16, 2013 |
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Aug 16, 2013 15:31
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You gotta go to the right place, it's crazy overpriced. You could just go to and buy a cheap air compressor, they're useful to have anyways. Edit: a rattling clutch is a Ducati feature. unbuttonedclone fucked around with this message at 19:21 on Aug 16, 2013 |
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Aug 16, 2013 16:23
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thylacine posted:You gotta go to the right place, it's crazy overpriced. You could just go to and buy a cheap air compressor, they're useful to have anyways. A good compressor is one of the most important things to have in your shop. Get one with a decent sized tank (e.g. 20 -gallon), or you'll go deaf when it kicks on all the time. Armed with a good air supply, you have a platform for filling tires, blowing out dust from carbs, crevices, etc., running a soda blaster, powering various sheet metal tools, and painting poo poo. Seriously, get a compressor. It changes your life.
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Aug 16, 2013 17:18
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So I'm curious, what do people here pay for monthly insurance? I'm trying to get my bike insured and I always heard how cheap it was but my company wants to charge me more than my car and won't remove multi rider coverage even though I am a single rider only.
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Aug 16, 2013 20:40
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Monthly? Probably like $30 - two big bikes, two riders. But we pay it once a year. This is something that varies a lot though based on location and situation - we park in a garage, own a home, are married, etc. and that stuff stacks in favor of low premium. Shop for insurance. Your auto insurance carrier might not always be the best option for motorcycle coverage.
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Aug 16, 2013 20:46
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I'm paying $75.19 a month with Progressive for liability, comprehensive, and roadside. Liability alone was $25 I believe. I'm 22, a new rider, on my first bike, a brand new bike I bought a month ago from the dealership, in Phoenix, AZ. 2013 Honda CBR500R.
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Aug 16, 2013 20:49
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My breakdown with a 2006 Ninja 650R, 26 year old single male, clean record through State Farm: Liability (Bodily/Property), 250k each person, 500k each incident, 100k property - $97/yr Comprehensive, $50 deductible - $45/yr Underinsured Motor Vehicle, Bodily Injury 250k each person/500k each incident - $190/yr Underinsured Motor Vehicle, Property Damage, 100k - $25/yr Total: ~$350/yr Guinness fucked around with this message at 21:55 on Aug 16, 2013 |
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Aug 16, 2013 20:58
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I have the worst coverage legally allowed and pay $219 through an agent, which would probably be under $200 if I were to go online. 2001 SV650
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Aug 16, 2013 21:03
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$35 a month on geico: 100/300 bodily injury, 5k property damage, and comprehensive. 23, clean record, 04 ninja 250. Adding under/uninsured motorist would have more than doubled it iirc. Farmers wanted like $400 a month 
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Aug 16, 2013 21:10
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$79/year thru Geico, with a "speeding >30mph over limit" ticket. Progressive (whom I had before I moved) was $73/yr, but they wanted $88/month here. They WILL cover in this state, they just don't want to. State Farm, Allstate, USAA, Farmer's, and Farm Bureau were all in the range from $81 to $180/yr, so definitely shop around and don't feel bad about telling your current company to go pound sand if you can find insurance for 1/15th the price elsewhere. Loyalty be damned.
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Aug 16, 2013 21:41
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drat, I feel like I should try finding some better insurance rates. This is my first vehicle ever, so first insurance. Does the rate go lower after you've been riding and insured for some time?
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Aug 16, 2013 21:48
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thylacine posted:Edit: a rattling clutch is a Ducati feature. It's more worrying if it *isn't* rattling...
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Aug 16, 2013 21:50
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So I am trying to figure out what I need to do to get the bike in my name. I live in CA and its so drat complicated at the dmv. Its made even worse that the guy I bought it from has seemingly disappeared... but my insurance says I need to have it registered before they can insure me...
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Aug 16, 2013 22:01
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ScienceAndMusic posted:So I am trying to figure out what I need to do to get the bike in my name. I live in CA and its so drat complicated at the dmv. Its made even worse that the guy I bought it from has seemingly disappeared... but my insurance says I need to have it registered before they can insure me... You got a title with the bike...right? Should be pretty straight forward...go to DMV with title, bill of sale if needed by CA, CA drivers license and get it transferred over. If you didn't get a title then good luck. e: do bikes in CA have to be emissions tested? That adds a step somewhere
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Aug 16, 2013 22:46
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ScienceAndMusic posted:So I am trying to figure out what I need to do to get the bike in my name. I live in CA and its so drat complicated at the dmv. Its made even worse that the guy I bought it from has seemingly disappeared... but my insurance says I need to have it registered before they can insure me... Your insurance should write a policy on the bike even if you don't own it. Go to DMV, register bike. It's not too hard. Better yet, go to AAA. No emissions testing, unless it's coming from out of state. If that's the case, they'll want it to be over 7500 miles or to see the 50 state emissions sticker.
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Aug 16, 2013 22:48
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$280/yr for compulsory third party insurance, $150/yr for registration, $700/yr for comprehensive insurance (or $300 if I did liability only) on a vehicle valued at $4200AU. My car only costs a few hundred more a year to insure and is valued at 5 times the price.
ephphatha fucked around with this message at 08:05 on Aug 17, 2013 |
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Aug 16, 2013 23:35
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What is compulsory third party insurance and how is it different than liability?
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Aug 16, 2013 23:36
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I think I'm around $180 a year on my C14, but that's in  and I am old and married.
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Aug 17, 2013 00:40
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After doing a little reading I'm wondering if I should take the springs out, then the clutch plate and pull all the friction plates and clean them individually. Is this worth doing or is it possible to blow the majority of the dust out with the clutch plate on?
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Aug 17, 2013 00:43
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