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Imperador do Brasil posted:Drove the TSX yesterday to get some wheels and I managed 33mpg on all-highway driving with the KA24. Intake, header, high-flow cat and exhaust. My wife regularly averages 28mpg with taking it up into VTEC every day. How different is the gearing on the S2K? AP2s and TSX are geared about the same in 1-3 while the AP1 is geared out longer than both but the driving rpm band is way different though. In my parents TSX I never feel the need to rev the motor above 3k unless I'm merging or hooning while in the S2000 3krpm is usually my marker for when I should downshift even just sitting in traffic. That motor just loving loves high rpms.
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Aug 9, 2013 17:00
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Imperador do Brasil posted:Drove the TSX yesterday to get some wheels and I managed 33mpg on all-highway driving with the KA24. Intake, header, high-flow cat and exhaust. My wife regularly averages 28mpg with taking it up into VTEC every day. How different is the gearing on the S2K? The F20 is a thirstier motor, and loves to have the poo poo revved out of it
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Aug 9, 2013 18:10
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Not my car, but I'll be installing a two-stage nitrous setup on a stroked LS1 Camaro tomorrow 
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Aug 10, 2013 00:23
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I finally got around to installing the fog lights into the bullbar that have sat on my desk for the last... 2 months? Now i need to get the appropriate connector to adapt into the factory loom, get the relay and a new stalk with the twisty barrel for the fog lights and then dismantle half my god drat dash to install the drat relay. Its one of those relays that toyota put on a shop floor and build a god drat car around  And im getting there on my epic Warn winch rebuild- Ive got 2x M10,000 winches and a XD9000 to strip down, overhaul and reinstall into vehicles. One M10000 had a rusted to gently caress motor and severe corrosion under all the paint, which has been stripped back and resprayed, the other 10K had a blown up motor thats gonna be replaced with either a 4.6hp or a 6hp motor and get a full overhaul. Then I need to pull the XD9000 out of the 100 series, strip it, overhaul it and install it into dads new Hilux. Then find a winch bullbar to suit my mates 80 series so he has somewhere to bolt HIS new winch!
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Aug 10, 2013 10:59
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Cleaned up the headlights on my mom's Corolla S.
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Aug 10, 2013 16:57
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Washed both cars today. Excuse the finger in the one photo, it was sunny and I didn't see it on the phone screen. 
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Aug 10, 2013 16:59
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Imperador do Brasil posted:Washed both cars today. Excuse the finger in the one photo, it was sunny and I didn't see it on the phone screen. Umf.  Just spent all day bombing around in forum user Rape Whistle's RS4 today. Ze Germans!
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Aug 10, 2013 23:10
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Fixed that thing that stops car doors from opening too far. It was kind of busted on the Niva since I got it but the last of the last spot weld gave out. What an anus of a job that was. On the bright side I did a couple of the best plug welds I've ever done. On the not so bright side I think a child has made off with my card reader and memory stick for the camera so no photos. Still need to slap some primer on it but the welding is done. I don't know why but all the metal in that car spits like a sparkler. It's highly unpleasant to weld. It's probably the cesium isotopes or something.
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Aug 11, 2013 04:02
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I've started to get the engine ready to be pulled out in the STi to do a clutch job. At least I'll be able to easily change the spark plugs!  
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Aug 11, 2013 04:44
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Finished this: http://youtu.be/yc1z78N98ak After 4+ weeks of doing the engine swap, my Mk. 3 Jetta has a 2001 TDI motor from a wrecked Beetle.
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Aug 12, 2013 00:22
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I started cleaning the engine bay of my 1984 F-250. Because the fuel pump died. Gradually, over a week. By spraying into the radiator fan. While I was running on vegetable oil.
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Aug 12, 2013 15:05
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Started researching where all the loving ground wires are on my 928 and holy poo poo there's a lot of them. Tach mostly dead and the voltage gauge bounces quite prettily when using the turn signals so betting there's a grounding issue somewhere. Probably the big chassis-to-engine one that often looks OK but doesn't actually work so well. Not sure I can find a branded replacement and even if I could it would probably cost more than my house based on what the Porsche dealers like to charge around here, so may have to pull it and fabricate a replacement, it's just a big fat wire after all. Then I gotta see if the linkage to the tranny is out of adjustment or I have some internal tranny issue. YAY PROJECTS Sounds nice, though, if nothing else. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SPhqKVoSGGY
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Aug 12, 2013 18:48
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New tyres! The cheap crappy PO-fitted ones are gone so hopefully no more barbiecar.gif when it rains.
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Aug 12, 2013 19:24
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Not my car, but swapped a battery for a friend. 9 volts sitting, 5 volts with the ignition on, 0 if you touch the starter, and fuckoff huge sparks if you touched it with jumper cables. I'd never even heard of Plus Start before today. Date code was 10-04  I wish I would have been surprised at how much oil that thing leaks, if nothing else, because of the low mileage for its age. 87 Toyota pickup with the 22R and 80,000 showing on the 6 digit odometer 
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Aug 13, 2013 04:07
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Yeah plus start is the budget brand of Diehard. People buy them because they're cheap. Not horrible, but there's not many batteries out there that'll last 9 years (even your Ion's magic battery).
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Aug 13, 2013 04:26
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I tried repairing a radiator today. It didn't work, but it's what I'd call a successful failure. My technique seemed workable, but I missed the leak. Possibly by a fraction of a millimetre. It's just a pinhole in the solder at the bottom edge of the top tank that leaks when the system is pressurized but it shits me greatly. For the curious my idea is the polar opposite of what I should do. I have some liquid flux and some 60/40 silver/lead solder, a primus propane blowtorch with a soldering iron attachment. This is what I did. Left the system full. Cleaned up the metal. Painted on some flux. Cranked the torch up. Got a small booger of solder hanging off the iron for heat transfer. Heated the target area of the tank with the iron tip and quickly shoved solder at it. The solder bonded fine by the way. The basic premise of the way I did it was so I could deliver a lot of energy to one point only. The idea being that the soldering iron can deliver it far more precisely than a flame and without the oxidizing and that the coolant would wick away a lot of the energy around where I was applying heat so I could potentially avoid melting old solder. I don't know if the theory is solid but it seemed to work. Next time I'll repeat the process for the next few millimetres and actually get the leak.
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Aug 13, 2013 05:24
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 Not mine, but helped a buddy do an emergency u-jointectomy on his 1985 Corvette. He bought the thing 6 months ago with 70,000 miles or so and something has been going wrong every 3 weeks or so. Pretty normal for a car that sat for 5 years and is all of a sudden a DD. There was about a half inch of play in the right rear axle, I guess the grease dried up in like 2002. Used the THOR method with the u-joints, it was the easiest part of the whole thing. Wrench sizes needed: 9/16", 15mm, 13/16", 18mm, 1/2", 8mm, and so on. It was fairly frustrating at times. gently caress 1980s GM. It took us about 4 and a half hours but really it should've been 3.
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Aug 13, 2013 07:02
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wallaka posted:
That's where i'm lucky with my mack. Pretty much every bolt is 10, 13, or 15mm. Modern kenworths are about 40% metric, 40% imperial, and 20% "HOLY gently caress IT'S NEITHER, IS THAT A loving PENTAGON?"
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Aug 13, 2013 07:25
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Fucknag posted:there's not many batteries out there that'll last 9 years (even your Ion's magic battery). I'm about 99.9999999998% sure that the only reason my Ion's battery has lasted so long is because it's in the trunk, away from the heat of the engine. And it's pretty weak - it shows about 12.2V immediately after shutting off the engine, drops to 12.1 under any real load, and the windows move sloooooowwwwwww with the engine off. The only reason I haven't replaced it is because I just want to see how long it'll last. It'll definitely get replaced with a Deka; I believe that's the only battery (aside from one specific Diehard model) that will work with the factory vent tubes, and they seem to have a fantastic reputation. I looked up his old battery - the exact replacement Plus Start is $90 from Sears, and it's not even the right battery for the truck (it's supposed to have a group 25, not 26). There's only about a 25 amp difference, but the 25 actually fits in the battery tray. We got a 25 for $85 from Wal-Mart (Everstart Plus, I think?). A group 26 (which is what it had before) was $70 at Wal-Mart. My old mechanic carries Continental and Interstate, I called him first since he usually gives me a good price - but he didn't have any 25's (or 26's). I actually tried to talk my friend into using another 26, since he has the very bottom of the line 87 Toyota pickup with zero electronics outside of the CD player I installed last summer, but he wanted to go with the right battery. Can't say I blame him, it won't slide around in the battery tray. Still need to figure out a hold down for it.
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Aug 13, 2013 08:48
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some texas redneck posted:Still need to figure out a hold down for it. The answer is "Zip Ties", unless it gets too hot and will melt them. Then the answer is "wire hangers". C'mon now!
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Aug 13, 2013 09:25
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Just bought a Mishimoto oil cooler kit (non-thermostatic sandwich plate). Science of Speed now sells a turbo kit in addition to their supercharger kit. I was leaning to the SoS blower kit due to the OEM build quality and lack of need to move things around. However, their turbocharger kit doesn't require the removal or destruction of anything OEM (no fuse box, battery, or oil filter relocation, no urethane motor mount (it comes with a high temp heat shield). Figured an oil cooler would be an important edition since the car already runs so hot NA. http://www.mishimoto.com/honda-s2000-oil-cooler-kit-00-09.html  Kinda wish I hadn't bought that header now. Oh well, I know there are a lot of s2k guys here so somebody's going to get a really inexpensive PLM header sooner than later 
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Aug 13, 2013 16:54
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Adjusted the timing on my TDI...
BlackMK4 fucked around with this message at 23:43 on Aug 13, 2013 |
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Aug 13, 2013 21:51
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I JB welded my coolant tank! hooray for half rear end fixes. I think come spring this truck is gone, rain or shine. On my pickup, i got back into the mud a little and hosed up the plastidip on another wheel.   now i don't know what i'm gonna do.
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Aug 14, 2013 03:06
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 Made a kickdown linkage extender for my 68 Mercury. The stock kickdown worked when I had the 1" spacer under the carb, but I couldn't fit an air cleaner with the spacer and still close the hood all the way. The Performer RPM intake is too tall. This works well enough.
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Aug 14, 2013 03:51
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 Went to go and put new wheel bearings on the Slobalt. Found out the ones I had ordered were too big to fit into the steering knuckle. Double checked everything on my end and found out that I had ordered the "correct" ones. Working with the seller to get a refund now. Gave it the AI salute. In the background is a father and son project my dad and I are working on.  Here is the (correct) new wheel bearing against the old wheel bearing. Comes as a wheel bearing/ hub assembly. The old ones had 80,000 miles on them and were starting the hum of death. Surprisingly easy to get off, some Yield anti-sieze and a few blows with the ole chisel/hammer combo and it was free. Pretty surprised at how easy the Slobalt is to work on, I've had plenty of lovely GM experiences.  From a couple days ago, but I've started emptying out the engine bay in my 98 S10. Figure I'm going to swap out the four banger for something with more power. Undecided on the engine right now, will probably end up being whatever I can get my hands on that is a good deal and runs. This and my 84 Ram are my long term projects.
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Aug 14, 2013 18:57
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 I think I got my money's worth out of those. Replaced that one (and the other front one) with a couple of used ones to tide me over until I can afford actual new tires.
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Aug 14, 2013 22:01
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Nothing wrong with rocking cheap takeoff tires forever.
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Aug 14, 2013 22:19
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Fushin posted:From a couple days ago, but I've started emptying out the engine bay in my 98 S10. Figure I'm going to swap out the four banger for something with more power. Undecided on the engine right now, will probably end up being whatever I can get my hands on that is a good deal and runs. This and my 84 Ram are my long term projects. Dunno if the 4-banger uses the same mount locations as the V6, but if so the 4.3 V6 mounts are nearly identical to the V8 full-size pickups, so a SBC is a pretty easy swap. Just gotta fab mounts to slide the motor forward, or just buy some, they're available in the aftermarket. AFAIK the hardest bit is setting up the cooling system, fans, custom hoses, etc.
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Aug 14, 2013 22:43
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My PLM header came in today and the fabrication is great. The welds look nice and it was packed nicely. 3" test pipe bolted up for the photos. I'll be installing both some time this weekend and will just have to live with the CEL until I get my flashpro in and can turn off the secondary o2 sensor.   
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Aug 15, 2013 01:55
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I just went through my binder and pruned/threw away all receipts for parts that I've purchased over the years for the 2000 95 that are now also gone. 
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Aug 15, 2013 16:57
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Too cheap to pay for an aux input? Hack up a 3.5mm to RCA cable and solder it to your cassette tape input. $free edit: Don't mind the blood on the faceplate, I slipped and stabbed myself on a solder leg without noticing. 
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Aug 15, 2013 21:02
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I started pimpin' it! I mounted some side marker lights is all - didn't get around to wiring them. I also have a new brake light for the headache rack, and some relays to increase my headlight output. So lights mostly - stage 1 lightening?  Aligned the front end with my laser measuring too. Just place it on the tire and click - measured it out. Gave myself about 1/8" of toe in. I found my list of future work to do and crossed a few out that I did - new front bearings, half the shocks done, checked the brakes, cargo light added. Reminded myself that I did want new weatherstripping, and to drop & clean the passenger side gas tank.
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Aug 16, 2013 04:33
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The city finished redoing our street which means there's no longer a constant cloud of dirt hanging in the air ready to pounce on my car so I washed my car and bike. Noticed some weird splotchy patches on my bike's windscreen which I was able to polish out with a headlight restoration kit. Also removed the front wheel on the bike in preparation for putting a new tire on it tomorrow.
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Aug 16, 2013 18:25
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The other day I had to give a jump to the Mustang that I have still neglected to sell after 6 months. Yes, I know it's a V6. I don't care anymore, I drive a loving Corvette now. A dirty, dirty Corvette because my driveway is dirt and half a mile long. Or at least, I did drive a Corvette, but I won't this weekend because I pulled this out of the right rear tire after hearing a pop going down my driveway:  gently caress, could you possibly get worse shrapnel than that? Huge and HOLLOW. It's a drat pipe specially placed by the devil to ruin my poo poo. My tire went from fully inflated to 0 in about 3 seconds. Using a 150 PSI compressor I could only get it up to 15 PSI before the air was going out as fast as it was coming in. I put in a tire plug and it's been holding steady since then. As a side note, tire plugs are god drat ridiculous because that hole was huge, and leaking fast enough to feel the breeze from 3 feet away. Also, gently caress the previous owner for getting god drat Continentals. I've probably got more wear on the side walls than the actual tread because they just flex so drat much. Anyone know a good deal on the Goodyear Eagle F1 runflats that my car would have come out of the factory with? Not having a spare blows rear end when you don't have runflats.
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Aug 16, 2013 22:22
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BlackMK4 posted:Too cheap to pay for an aux input? Hack up a 3.5mm to RCA cable and solder it to your cassette tape input. I've been meaning to look at doing that. At what point does it need to be tapped in? I've never pulled one of those tape adapter things apart so I have no idea if it's just wires going straight to the head or if there's any passive electronics in the middle. Not that I want to keep my Pioneer tape deck. It pissed me off royally last night. Drove the Niva last night. Dark and rain on our lovely highway. It did well especially with its puny generator, high beam sealeds with a decent chunk of wattage and two driving lights, plus the thermo fans kicking in occasionally. Some weird noises but nothing too "Oh poo poo!" in nature but a front CV definitely needs attention. So yeah, drove it in the worst conditions yet and it didn't even notice except for a loss in speed from the headwind and the load on the generator. That stereo pisses me off so much. It was unusable last night. I was considering doing an aux input like yours but after last night it goes.
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Aug 16, 2013 23:50
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ApathyGifted posted:
I feel terrible for you but at the same time the amount of rage in this post makes it a very entertaining read.
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Aug 17, 2013 00:59
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The Saab got some new rubber (cheap rear end Nexen's) and some exhaust work. Replaced the stock muffler with a Magnaflow 12259 and replaced the resonator with pipe. Just for the sound, there is no performance gain. HD video here http://youtu.be/MSSDfjqybhU The bass coming from my sub here is actually a very accurate representation. That was minutes before and after the install, and now after putting over a hundred miles on it I think it is even louder, I don't know if there is a break-in period or if it's all in my head.
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Aug 17, 2013 01:12
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ApathyGifted posted:Also, gently caress the previous owner for getting god drat Continentals. I've probably got more wear on the side walls than the actual tread because they just flex so drat much. Anyone know a good deal on the Goodyear Eagle F1 runflats that my car would have come out of the factory with? Not having a spare blows rear end when you don't have runflats. Dunno if you're specifically attached to goodyears, but Tirerack has all the runflats that fit your car here. Looks like a full set of anything is gonna be in the $1-1.5k range. To be frank, from my experience at work anything in run-flat is gonna be such low volume that you're unlikely to find any really good deals, so I'd just get whatever tire seems like best performance per dollar.
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Aug 17, 2013 01:19
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General_Failure posted:I've been meaning to look at doing that. At what point does it need to be tapped in? I've never pulled one of those tape adapter things apart so I have no idea if it's just wires going straight to the head or if there's any passive electronics in the middle. Not that I want to keep my Pioneer tape deck. It pissed me off royally last night. You tap into the preamp - cassette player gets unplugged and you stick a random tape in the thing to make the radio think it's playing a tape.
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Aug 17, 2013 07:04
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| # ? May 16, 2024 05:49 |
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Fucknag posted:Dunno if you're specifically attached to goodyears, but Tirerack has all the runflats that fit your car here. Looks like a full set of anything is gonna be in the $1-1.5k range. To be frank, from my experience at work anything in run-flat is gonna be such low volume that you're unlikely to find any really good deals, so I'd just get whatever tire seems like best performance per dollar. The plug is still holding with zero pressure loss after 24 hours, so I think I'll stick with my pre-what-the-gently caress-is-this-thing-sticking-out-of-my-tire plan and just splurge when the tread has worn down. That was going to coincide with getting new rims, as somehow the PO got some curb rash on all four of the OEM wheels. Tanz-Kommandant posted:I feel terrible for you but at the same time the amount of rage in this post makes it a very entertaining read. I do my best. 90% of my rage is played for laughs.
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Aug 17, 2013 11:28
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