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GrAviTy84 posted:Anyone have a good mechanic in Glendale, CA for a PPI? Depends how thorough they are for that $170, largely depends on shop rates and how long they spend on it. In the overall scheme of things $170 isn't poo poo if you're paying 15k or whatever for a car and is worth it for the peace of mind. I've paid as low as $50 for a quick PPI to $300 for a very thorough one.
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Aug 21, 2013 19:21
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https://www.bimrs.org
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Aug 21, 2013 20:04
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GrAviTy84 posted:Anyone have a good mechanic in Glendale, CA for a PPI? I've heard good things about Avus, but haven't actually used them myself.
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Aug 21, 2013 21:04
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Any idea what's going on here? E90 about 4 months old. It's on both sides and up under the mirror pylon too. The area feels matte rather than gloss.
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Aug 21, 2013 23:34
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Jealous Cow posted:Any idea what's going on here? E90 about 4 months old. It's on both sides and up under the mirror pylon too. The area feels matte rather than gloss. Are you talking about the shadowline trim? (assuming m sport package/m3, hard to tell in the picture) If you are, that happens to pretty much all of them. I've had luck waxing it to get the weird discoloration off, if that doesn't work people suggest a clay bar. edit: http://www.britetrim.com/ is now what is recommended, I'd still try waxing it first. doogle fucked around with this message at 00:01 on Aug 22, 2013 |
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Aug 21, 2013 23:58
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doogle posted:Are you talking about the shadowline trim? (assuming m sport package/m3, hard to tell in the picture) If you are, that happens to pretty much all of them. I've had luck waxing it to get the weird discoloration off, if that doesn't work people suggest a clay bar. Yes, I am. It's an M3. It happened seemingly overnight. Are dealers doing anything about it?
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Aug 22, 2013 00:19
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Assuming you're still under factory warranty, just take the car in and they'll replace them without asking questions.
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Aug 22, 2013 00:22
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Jealous Cow posted:Yes, I am. It's an M3. It happened seemingly overnight. Are dealers doing anything about it? Not that I know of, but even if they replace all the trim it will come back. I never had a problem until I moved to NC from VA, probably something in the environment or water that is causing it. Just wax it.
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Aug 22, 2013 00:23
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Man, they really put the folding seat release for the e46 in a weird rear end place. It took me a google search to figure it out since it wasn't in the manual that I could see.
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Aug 22, 2013 00:26
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The trunk is a weird place? Makes sense to me: if I need the seats down, I'm already in the trunk. Pull lever(s), push seat(s) down.
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Aug 22, 2013 00:30
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Jealous Cow posted:Yes, I am. It's an M3. It happened seemingly overnight. Are dealers doing anything about it? Do you park it outside or something? Don't you live in Florida?
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Aug 22, 2013 00:49
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Das Volk posted:Do you park it outside or something? Don't you live in Florida? I'm in VA, I spent the last two weeks in Ohio. It's outside most of the time.
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Aug 22, 2013 00:52
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Guinness posted:The trunk is a weird place? They weren't in the trunk in my e36 
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Aug 22, 2013 01:12
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Thanks for this. Unfortuately, I didn't make it past the test drive, the car was just...well... Here's a snippet of one of the many little conversations we had during my time at that dealership regarding the car: Him: "It has brand new tires!" Me: "Um, are you sure? none of these match and they all have like 60% tread" Him: "Yes, brand new." Me: "Are you sure they're not used?" Him: "Let me check..." ~goes and checks with his manager~ "Yes, they are brand new used tires"
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Aug 22, 2013 02:23
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Just coming up on the first oil change on the e30. It has an m20 with 240k mi and no oil leaks. PO was using Castrol GTX High Mileage 15w40, which the dealership put in during the winter. I was thinking of just going with the 15w40 again but a few people have told me I should run 20w50 for the summer in it. I've always thought GTX was cheap oil but I guess it's the oil to use on this car? Should I stick with it or try a full synthetic or what? Cost of the oil isn't an issue because it isn't going to end up all over the parking lot like most e30's. Thanks in advance for any input. e: I'm in Seattle so it's going to be a warm climate for maybe another month and then it's going to be cold as poo poo so I'm leaning toward 15w40 Drunken Lullabies fucked around with this message at 03:05 on Aug 22, 2013 |
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Aug 22, 2013 02:49
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BraveUlysses posted:E46's have bleed screws just like the E36's, right? are you making sure you're using the bleed screw? There's a bleed screw I've had it open but never poured coolant to the point it was flowing out of it - only to the midline of the expansion tank level indicator. I hadn't seen that thread, it's got some great detail. Going to try again pouring incredibly slowly until it's overflowing, then repeat the same idle-to-temperature procedure. One of the replies in that thread suggests briefly revving the engine, I tried that once and it just felt wrong. This drat car, it's about a week away from going on Craigslist as "BMW BRING A TRAILER"
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Aug 22, 2013 02:50
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Drunken Lullabies posted:Just coming up on the first oil change on the e30. It has an m20 with 240k mi and no oil leaks. PO was using Castrol GTX High Mileage 15w40, which the dealership put in during the winter. I was thinking of just going with the 15w40 again but a few people have told me I should run 20w50 for the summer in it. I've always thought GTX was cheap oil but I guess it's the oil to use on this car? Should I stick with it or try a full synthetic or what? Cost of the oil isn't an issue because it isn't going to end up all over the parking lot like most e30's. Thanks in advance for any input. At 240k miles I'd just pretty much keep doing what has worked well up until this point. Nothing wrong with Castrol GTX for an M20 I don't think. I ran GTX in my M30.
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Aug 22, 2013 03:06
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Drunken Lullabies posted:e: I'm in Seattle so it's going to be a warm climate for maybe another month and then it's going to be cold as poo poo so I'm leaning toward 15w40 Rotella T is the answer here. Its become quite the rage lately and on top of the fact that it cleans all the crud too. Combine that with a WIX filter and your set.
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Aug 22, 2013 03:20
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Cellular Suicide posted:There's a bleed screw I've had it open but never poured coolant to the point it was flowing out of it - only to the midline of the expansion tank level indicator. I hadn't seen that thread, it's got some great detail. Going to try again pouring incredibly slowly until it's overflowing, then repeat the same idle-to-temperature procedure. One of the replies in that thread suggests briefly revving the engine, I tried that once and it just felt wrong. You should be following the directions in that E46Fanatics link to the letter; Unlike the E36, you should NEVER start the engine in an E46 until you've filled the coolant to the point that it streams out of the bleed screw bubble-free. If you do start the engine before that, you're circulating bubbles into places that you'll never be able to bleed them from with that method. I understand your blower isn't working, but that shouldn't be an issue - the heater valves should open regardless (edit: If the valves aren't opening, the heater core shouldn't drain out, so that shouldn't be an issue - the "fan on" procedure is only for a full flush of coolant). Also, looking back on your previous post, you you only added half a gallon of coolant when you refilled your system...I can tell you right now that should have been setting off an alarm bell in your head. When I did my system, I opened the block plug as well; when I refilled the system, it took damned near the posted capacity of 7.5 litres (about two gallons) to fill it properly. Something else you might want to try is to put your car on some ramps; when I did my cooling system, I had the car up on a set of ~6" wooden ramps. This gets the bleed screw up even higher and makes bleeding the system even easier following the proper procedure. MrChips fucked around with this message at 03:43 on Aug 22, 2013 |
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Aug 22, 2013 03:40
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Would love to buy a E36 or E46 M3 and was looking around. Funnily enough a guy in my office is selling his 2004 on CL, listing for $18500. In Phoenix yellow, ugh. http://phoenix.craigslist.org/evl/cto/4016586122.html  What's the best way to nicely tell him he's asking waaay too much?
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Aug 22, 2013 03:50
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sticksy posted:Would love to buy a E36 or E46 M3 and was looking around. Funnily enough a guy in my office is selling his 2004 on CL, listing for $18500. In Phoenix yellow, ugh. Whats up with the filler cap being matte black? Looks like a wrap, maybe?
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Aug 22, 2013 04:56
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sticksy posted:Would love to buy a E36 or E46 M3 and was looking around. Funnily enough a guy in my office is selling his 2004 on CL, listing for $18500. In Phoenix yellow, ugh. Just tell him that Phoenix Yellow cars are really hard to sell, and he might have to drop his price. (I don't get the hate for Phoenix Yellow, I love it personally)
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Aug 22, 2013 05:03
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sticksy posted:Would love to buy a E36 or E46 M3 and was looking around. Funnily enough a guy in my office is selling his 2004 on CL, listing for $18500. In Phoenix yellow, ugh. Look at other cars, fellow Scottsdale buddy. BlackMK4 fucked around with this message at 05:52 on Aug 22, 2013 |
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Aug 22, 2013 05:42
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doogle posted:Are you talking about the shadowline trim? (assuming m sport package/m3, hard to tell in the picture) If you are, that happens to pretty much all of them. I've had luck waxing it to get the weird discoloration off, if that doesn't work people suggest a clay bar. Klasse will bring it back to life. Keyser_Soze fucked around with this message at 05:46 on Aug 22, 2013 |
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Aug 22, 2013 05:42
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BrokenKnucklez posted:Rotella T is the answer here. Its become quite the rage lately and on top of the fact that it cleans all the crud too. Combine that with a WIX filter and your set. Rotella T doesn't have as much zinc anymore and it's not as good as it used to be. It's getting a lot of hype as of late but I don't know why because it isn't as good as it used to be on older engines anymore. Not that it's bad oil or anything but I'm not so sure it's as worth the premium. I'm sticking with the gtx high mileage 15w40. I originally asked on another forum because my sticker was faded and my paperwork just said "oil" and then I got a lot of different opinions on what I should use but I agree, if my motor is 240k and running this strong and not leaking a drop I'm going to keep it going the way it is. I'm also of the belief that changing different kinds of oils often can lead to bad things sometimes. That said I haven't bought the oil yet so I'm still totally open to input and if you think rotella would be better for my car I would be willing to give it a shot for an interval. Oh god I'm so indecisive. Are wix filters reliably not outsourced? I've heard that a lot of bosch/mann filters have been made in mexico/india lately and quality has gone down but I've heard nothing really about wix. I know it sounds dumb to sperg about a filter but I've had a fram (poo poo) filter leak all over the freeway and cause one of my old shitboxes to throw a rod and window a block. Then one of my friends put a lovely k&n filter on their car despite my warning them about poo poo filters and have the same happen. Not that a dead motor will keep this car off the road or anything but I really want to see how many miles I can clock on the original motor and trans before I rebuild or swap. I guess I can get wix locally and not mann so I may as well just check it out myself... Drunken Lullabies fucked around with this message at 11:22 on Aug 22, 2013 |
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Aug 22, 2013 11:06
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Drunken Lullabies posted:Rotella T doesn't have as much zinc anymore and it's not as good as it used to be. It's getting a lot of hype as of late but I don't know why because it isn't as good as it used to be on older engines anymore. Not that it's bad oil or anything but I'm not so sure it's as worth the premium. No oils have the same amount of zinc anymore, or they wouldn't pass API. Unless Rotella has changed the formulation again in the last 2 years, it's still one of the least expensive of the quality oils that has near the max allowable amount of zinc/ZDDP. Now sure why you think it's a "premium", unless you're comparing it to store brand oils. It's pretty cheap (in the realm of quality oils) around here.
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Aug 22, 2013 17:03
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Motronic posted:The bolt doesn't get removed. You are using the wrench to move the tensioner in the direction where it loosens the belt (against it's spring tension). Thanks, I got this now. I need to remove the pulley from the front of the old alternator now so I can put it on the new one. I'm not having any luck using a wrench with a 24mm socket on it - is the solution to use an impact wrench? I tried using a rubber strap wrench to hold the pulley down while twisting, but no luck. I guess this is how to learn, hah.
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Aug 22, 2013 17:58
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UnkleBoB posted:Thanks, I got this now. I need to remove the pulley from the front of the old alternator now so I can put it on the new one. I'm not having any luck using a wrench with a 24mm socket on it - is the solution to use an impact wrench? I tried using a rubber strap wrench to hold the pulley down while twisting, but no luck. I guess this is how to learn, hah. Depends on the alternator. It's probably easiest to use a strap wrench and an impact. Some have an allen key or other wrench flats on the shaft that you can grab and then use an open ended wrench on the nut. Make sure you spray it with penetrating oil. And if that doesn't work and you don't have an impact try some heat.
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Aug 22, 2013 18:04
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sticksy posted:Would love to buy a E36 or E46 M3 and was looking around. Funnily enough a guy in my office is selling his 2004 on CL, listing for $18500. In Phoenix yellow, ugh. Remind him politely that it's an SMG.
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Aug 22, 2013 18:07
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Popete posted:Remind him politely that it's an SMG. ...he should keep looking and forget about that car.
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Aug 22, 2013 18:33
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Correct me if I'm wrong, but aren't the stock Mini Cooper bonnet stripes actually painted and not decals?  http://i.imgur.com/iJ6mF12.jpg
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Aug 22, 2013 19:59
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Motronic posted:No oils have the same amount of zinc anymore, or they wouldn't pass API. Unless Rotella has changed the formulation again in the last 2 years, it's still one of the least expensive of the quality oils that has near the max allowable amount of zinc/ZDDP. No you're totally right I was just going off the prices at the store 5min away from my house, where everything is overpriced as poo poo, I guess it's a lot cheaper than I thought.
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Aug 22, 2013 20:47
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I like BMW's
Keyser_Soze fucked around with this message at 22:02 on Aug 22, 2013 |
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Aug 22, 2013 20:51
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Drunken Lullabies posted:No you're totally right I was just going off the prices at the store 5min away from my house, where everything is overpriced as poo poo, I guess it's a lot cheaper than I thought. A gallon of 15W-40 is usually 12 bucks in my part of the world. Considering its a fairly "premium" oil, and has quite a few detergents, I consider 3 bucks a quart a bargain.
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Aug 22, 2013 21:20
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GrAviTy84 posted:Correct me if I'm wrong, but aren't the stock Mini Cooper bonnet stripes actually painted and not decals? They look like vinyl to me.
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Aug 22, 2013 22:05
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So if the S85 is any indication it appears the Rod Bearings are now a preventative wear item before 100,000 miles on the S65 as well. The clearance is too loving tight, not really sure what BMW's rationale was in this. http://www.m5board.com/vbulletin/e60-m5-e61-m5-touring-discussion/290497-rod-bearings-84-000-miles.html Tell them those don't look terrible, personally I never rev over 4k until the engine oil is fully warmed up. But that just seems crazy.
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Aug 22, 2013 23:08
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BrokenKnucklez posted:A gallon of 15W-40 is usually 12 bucks in my part of the world. Considering its a fairly "premium" oil, and has quite a few detergents, I consider 3 bucks a quart a bargain. It's about double here, which is actually a lot less than I was expecting. Nobody stocks Rotella T around here though. Not even sure if I can find GTX locally though either.
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Aug 23, 2013 01:24
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I usually score rotella synthetic at Walmart for a good price. Only reason to ever go there.
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Aug 23, 2013 04:10
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Stupid question, but can anyone tell me where to disconnect the negative battery terminal in a 2000 E46 coupe? Google search has been ambiguous, and I'm taking apart my doors to track down some rattles and I believe I need to disconnect some cabling to the side airbags and don't want to chance any mistakes.
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Aug 23, 2013 21:16
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PPI all day forever. Found a sweet 2008 cooper S yesterday. Dealership was insisting that their inspection was adequate but I insisted on an independent. Took it to mini of Monrovia for a PPI. They found a leaky crank shaft seal and a busted water pump to the total tune of $1k. On the downside I'm back to square one. GrAviTy84 fucked around with this message at 21:23 on Aug 23, 2013 |
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Aug 23, 2013 21:21
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