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Wagonburner posted:I can't get back there easily to look now. Main thing I want is to leave dryer outlet intact/same breaker in case we get an electric dryer, 2 circuits is a secondary want. You should ask in the wiring thread for current code etc.
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Aug 23, 2013 03:33
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Any advice on removing old (>6 months) blood stains from a mattress? Trying a hydrogen peroxide paste at the moment, which is having a small but noticeable effect. If anyone knows of anything faster, that'd be great.
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Aug 23, 2013 14:46
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Luminol will always be able to detect it, even if you can't see it anymore. Probably best to burn it, along with the rest of your house just for good measure. I think there's still a few countries without extradition treaties with the US too, so I would look into that as well.
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Aug 23, 2013 17:21
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coffeetable posted:Any advice on removing old (>6 months) blood stains from a mattress? Trying a hydrogen peroxide paste at the moment, which is having a small but noticeable effect. If anyone knows of anything faster, that'd be great. Are you talking BB sized blots or corpse sized pools?
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Aug 23, 2013 18:25
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Tyson Tomko posted:Are you talking BB sized blots or corpse sized pools? My guess is period blood. Try making a paste with detergent and work it in with a toothbrush. Let it dry then rinse and scrub with brush. If that doesn't work try a rust stain remover powder.
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Aug 23, 2013 18:58
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coffeetable posted:Any advice on removing old (>6 months) blood stains from a mattress? Trying a hydrogen peroxide paste at the moment, which is having a small but noticeable effect. If anyone knows of anything faster, that'd be great. I worked for a little while cleaning up crime scenes. We used a detergent with protease enzymes in it. Normal soaps and detergents are meant to break up grease and fat, but protease enzymes break down the hemoglobin protein that hold the iron that gives blood it's red color. A quick check shows they sell the exact brand we used on Amazon. If that's too pricey for you, then the H2O2 is probably the way to go. Otherwise ammonia. Either way, don't use hot water. Heat will just make the protein cling to the fabric even more. I know it seems counter intuitive, but heat softens fat and doesn't work the same on proteins.
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Aug 23, 2013 21:19
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I have a question about what might be an appropriate building material for a project I'm doing: I am building a new cage for my chameleon and need to find some kind of square/squarish basin that is fairly strong and either has a drain built into the bottom already, or a slope of some kind to it that I could put a 1-2" drain hole into without compromising integrity too badly. The cage will have several potted plants in it, get misted fairly heavily a couple times a day(the plants of course get watered) and I'd like to funnel the runoff into a collection bucket of some kind, instead of the "thin plastic catchpans squashed in together" method I currently use to keep the water from flowing out and onto my carpet. Plus, it would be nice to be able to clean the poop/urates out by just washing them down a drain and dumping it all down the toilet. What might fit my bill? I'd just use a cut-up Rubbermaid tub but their plastic is too flexy(or brittle for the clear ones) and would warp out of shape and potentially let his food crawl out into my place. General construction info, the frame will be 1x2s painted up with waterproofing sealant and the walls will be coroplast or some kind of thin opaque plastic material. Cage is probably going to be 65" tall total.
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Aug 25, 2013 02:33
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Kilersquirrel posted:I have a question about what might be an appropriate building material for a project I'm doing: How about a 'mixing tub' from Home Depot or similar? Usually found near the cement bags, various sizes up to 36'' x 24'' x 8" with decent wall thickness. I have one under my bench-top CNC mill and it's held up to tons of abuse.
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Aug 25, 2013 04:41
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I cant seem to find anything online- Anyone know where I can find a wiring diagram or explain how to wire 3 light sockets into a single plug?
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Aug 25, 2013 05:11
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Kilersquirrel posted:I have a question about what might be an appropriate building material for a project I'm doing: Polycarbonate or acrylic come to mind. Home depot sells sheets. You're already using wood so a good bet would be outdoor grade plywood, epoxy and fiberglass cloth. Basically boat building technique. See west system epoxy and look up "stitch and glue" on youtube to get an idea. Epoxy is expensive but home depot sells polyester resin and fiberglass also, polyester is a bit cheaper but not quite as strong. If this sounds at all difficult it's really not and requires no tools.
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Aug 25, 2013 05:42
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Kilersquirrel posted:I have a question about what might be an appropriate building material for a project I'm doing: What about something like this http://www.northerntool.com/shop/to...CFY5r7AodlkkATg and then you could just attach tubing to the bottom and run it to a bucket (Just google drain pans, I bet you will find something)
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Aug 25, 2013 06:38
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I bought a used Northern Industrial 14" cutoff saw ($20 from a retired contractor, filthy and a little rusty but still works, screaming deal), and I'm not sure how to go about reattaching the blade.  It seems logical to me that the blade would be sandwiched between the first and second big disks, then the third disk would go on and act like a big washer for the bolt. My problem is that the hole in the blade (that came with the saw) is slightly larger than the axle (arbor?), and so the blade spins a little eccentrically. How big an issue is that? That blade is designed for a 20mm arbor, and that's a little too big. The other circular saw blade I have is designed for a 5/8" arbor, and that's just a little bit smaller than the axle (seriously, it feels like I could give it a love tap with a hammer and it would pop on). Is there a specific size I should be looking for? Also, can I put a wood blade on it and use it to cut wood? Safety Dance fucked around with this message at 07:05 on Aug 25, 2013 |
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Aug 25, 2013 07:03
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Saint Celestine posted:I cant seem to find anything online- We have a wiring thread stickied in this forum... Anyway the short answer is to wire the 3 sockets in parallel, all 3 brass posts on the sockets to the black wire and all 3 silver posts on the sockets to the white wire.
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Aug 25, 2013 07:58
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Kilersquirrel posted:I have a question about what might be an appropriate building material for a project I'm doing: It's a bit more work but this is an ideal opportunity to learn about vacuum forming. Build a wooden former with the drain as the vacuum point, heat a thick acrylic sheet and vac form it on. Bonus you can make multiple bases and sell them? E: look for an acrylic shower base, depending on how big a square you want
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Aug 25, 2013 09:59
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Tyson Tomko posted:Are you talking BB sized blots or corpse sized pools? XmasGiftFromWife posted:My guess is period blood.  XmasGiftFromWife posted:Try making a paste with detergent and work it in with a toothbrush. Let it dry then rinse and scrub with brush. If that doesn't work try a rust stain remover powder. Killing Flies posted:I worked for a little while cleaning up crime scenes. We used a detergent with protease enzymes in it. Normal soaps and detergents are meant to break up grease and fat, but protease enzymes break down the hemoglobin protein that hold the iron that gives blood it's red color. A quick check shows they sell the exact brand we used on Amazon. Cheers guys 
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Aug 25, 2013 13:29
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Safety Dance posted:I bought a used Northern Industrial 14" cutoff saw ($20 from a retired contractor, filthy and a little rusty but still works, screaming deal), and I'm not sure how to go about reattaching the blade. That disk has a key on it. On my grinder, that would slot in perfectly on the axle and be nice and secure. Does attaching it directly without those sandwiching cups seem like an option?
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Aug 25, 2013 16:41
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It looks to me like the bump on the washer fits right into the hole to center it. Also don't use a saw-type instrument that isn't mounted straight, if it's oscillating you're either going to wreck the axle/motor, or the cutoff is going to fail in a spectacular fashion that will result in you(or your laughing wife/girlfriend) picking it out of your flesh with tweezers. Oscillation puts stresses on it that it wasn't really designed for. Thanks for the suggestions everybody, I think I'm settled on options now. Vacuum-forming would be pro as hell, but it is really not an option for somebody working out of an apartment garage to come up with a full kiln and forming table. Would certainly crank up the "the world should stop on its axis when I am home" busybody upstairs to hear that going on, hah.
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Aug 25, 2013 17:05
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sund posted:That disk has a key on it. On my grinder, that would slot in perfectly on the axle and be nice and secure. Does attaching it directly without those sandwiching cups seem like an option? I'm not sure what you mean by key. Like, words written on the disk, or like this kind of thing?  Not really. The axle is the size and shape of those circle-with-both-sides-cut-off holes in the center of the sandwiching cups. Without them, the disk would sit loosely on the axle with a bunch of up-down and side-side play. Kilersquirrel posted:It looks to me like the bump on the washer fits right into the hole to center it. Also don't use a saw-type instrument that isn't mounted straight, if it's oscillating you're either going to wreck the axle/motor, or the cutoff is going to fail in a spectacular fashion that will result in you(or your laughing wife/girlfriend) picking it out of your flesh with tweezers. Oscillation puts stresses on it that it wasn't really designed for. The bump on the washer is too large for the hole in the disk. The hole in the washer is too small to fit over the axle anyway. I'm going to go to home depot and see what sized arbors 14" chop saw blades come in. My cheap plastic calipers indicate that the arbor on this saw is exactly 5/8" diameter. Maybe the guy gave me a blade that was the wrong size, and I just need to hit the arbor with a wire wheel a little bit.
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Aug 25, 2013 18:10
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So my major exterior landscaping is wrapping up, new patio looks great, draintiles are in etc, only problem is the pathways around the house are, well, gone and I don't want to be paying a bunch extra right now for nice pavers being put down. What's a good method to get a useable, relatively weatherproof (PNW so we get a lot of rain) pathway to the front door, around the sides etc? I'm thinking getting a bunch of crushed rock that will act as a base for eventual pavers and just smoothing it out best I can for now, perhaps dropping a few large pavers (2'x2') down to use temporarily. Eventually I'd like to have a nice brick paver pathway similar to what is done in the patio but getting that done nicely so that it will last is pricey and I'd like to put it off for a bit to pay off the work that was just done. So any tips for temporary paths? I have a few pressure treated 4x4s lying around too so I could drop them to use to keep the gravel contained.
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Aug 25, 2013 19:06
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coffeetable posted:Sliced my hand open a few months back and the wound re-opened while I was sleeping. Thought I'd got it all out back then, but turns out I just didn't look hard enough Stigmata. Probably going to need some holy water and possibly some goats as a burnt offering.
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Aug 25, 2013 19:13
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So I am attempting to replace the electric coils in my stove in my apartment that I just moved into. I've isolated the circuit on the breaker and removed the coils but I took a look at them and noticed they look different from the ones I had in my last place. They look older, connecting with 3 wires that have to tied down with screws instead of simply being plugged in. I've looked for replacement parts on amazon but I can't find any that are similar looking. Is it even possible that Lowes, Home Depot, or Sears will have them or will I have look around? Photos here: http://imgur.com/a/eP1cr
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Aug 25, 2013 20:23
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Looking for some advice on my sliding screen door: Basically it's becoming stuck and hard to open and close. Looking at it, it appears there are two screws at the top of the door holding it in place and allowing the height to be adjusted. It seems like raising it a bit is the fix, however (and what I'm assuming cause the problem) it looks like the holes for the screws are completely stripped out. What's the best way to fix this? I was wondering if I could just force in bigger screws if the hole in the door is fine, if not drill new holes in the guide and door? http://imgur.com/a/G4MIl
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Aug 25, 2013 20:28
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The Dave posted:Looking for some advice on my sliding screen door: Retract all four wheels as far as they go. Kneel down outside the door and take a wide flathead screw driver to lift each of the two bottom wheels up and slide the bottom of the door forward off the door track. (I'm sure there's also a "removing sliding screen door" YouTube if that's not clear.) That will give you a clearer view of what's going on, and your hardware store has all the wheels and adjusters for easy replacement. eddiewalker fucked around with this message at 20:35 on Aug 25, 2013 |
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Aug 25, 2013 20:32
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eddiewalker posted:Retract all four wheels as far as they go. Kneel down outside the door and take a wide flathead screw driver to lift each of the two bottom wheels up and slide the bottom of the door forward off the door track. (I'm sure there's also a "removing sliding screen door" YouTube if that's not clear.) Just replaced the track on my sliding door this weekend because the door was hard to close and the track was damaged. You can generally remove the screen or the doors by lifting the door up into the upper track and pulling the bottom out at the same time. Does your track look damaged?
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Aug 25, 2013 21:07
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Zikan posted:So I am attempting to replace the electric coils in my stove in my apartment that I just moved into. I've isolated the circuit on the breaker and removed the coils but I took a look at them and noticed they look different from the ones I had in my last place. They look older, connecting with 3 wires that have to tied down with screws instead of simply being plugged in. I've looked for replacement parts on amazon but I can't find any that are similar looking. Is it even possible that Lowes, Home Depot, or Sears will have them or will I have look around? The screw hole closest to the coil is just for fixing, not electrical. You might be better finding a make/model number and finding parts that way, else you're taking a coil to the store and comparing every one you can get your hands on.
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Aug 25, 2013 21:15
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Yep, bought a decent quality blade with a 5/8" arbor, and it fits perfectly.
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Aug 25, 2013 23:07
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Going to do my best at explaining this... We have a flourescent light fixture in the kitchen. It's two 48" light bulbs. Anyways, a month ago I noticed that when you flipped the switch, the lights would flicker for a bit and then come on. I figured this meant the bulbs were on the way out, so I replaced them. From the day I replaced them I've had problems. Sometimes ill turn the switch on, and the lights come right on. The majority of times though, you'll see the ends glow a bit (or not at all). From here, it will eventually turn on or stay as is and ill have to maneuver the light switch on/off/halfway on/off a few times before it turns on. Any ideas? I bought the same bulbs as original. All I can guess is ballast? How much to replace one of those?
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Aug 26, 2013 04:00
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nwin posted:All I can guess is ballast? How much to replace one of those? I'm assuming it's not old enough to have a starter, so yeah. And if it's just a standard ballast it's gonna be under $30. Depending on the fixture it shouldn't be too hard to get at. Just tell the guy at the hardware store what size bulbs (T-8, T-12...whatever) and that it's a double 48" and you'll be handed the correct part (hopefully).
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Aug 26, 2013 06:56
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Take the ballast from the current fitting with you. I have a 4D maglite that's sat for years, the end is seized on. I've soaked the visible quarter-of-a-thread with light oil and clamped it in a vice but I can only wind the first quarter thread back and forth. Any suggestions?
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Aug 26, 2013 10:33
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Cakefool posted:Take the ballast from the current fitting with you. I'd try a penetrating oil like PB Blaster.
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Aug 26, 2013 13:39
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ShadowStalker posted:Just replaced the track on my sliding door this weekend because the door was hard to close and the track was damaged. You can generally remove the screen or the doors by lifting the door up into the upper track and pulling the bottom out at the same time. Yeah this is how mine is, no wheels on the bottom you can pop it out from there as my Corgis have done once or twice running into it. The track seems fine, it's just that with the screw holes up top stripped out the door isn't hanging and needs to be lifted a bit to slide.
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Aug 26, 2013 14:09
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Safety Dance posted:I'd try a penetrating oil like PB Blaster. 3 in 1 sorted it, now I've just got to extract at least one exploded battery.
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Aug 26, 2013 21:01
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To extend the recent ac unit chat, what are recharge costs these days? My ac unit isn't working on the hottest day of the year (although it worked 2 months ago when I last tried it). The fan starts up, it sounds normal, etc. so I'm guessing there is a refrigerant leak. Rather than pay to have the system recharged, I'm thinking about having a new unit installed. From what I read, the r-22 refrigerant that my 10 year old unit uses is being phased out and will be getting increasingly more expensive, so if there's a leak and they don't find it, I'll just be paying a bunch for them to come out and recharge a year or two from now. Thoughts? I'd rather not buy a new unit right now, but I also want to be smart about where my money is going. Is something like ac unit/installation price negotiable?
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Aug 26, 2013 22:34
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My utility has a list of contractors that work under federal rebate programs on their website. I got an AC inspection and a recharge of up to 2 pounds of refrigerant for free. After they finished, I was offered an $850 rebate on a new unit if I wanted. Since the programs are federal it's worth checking.
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Aug 26, 2013 22:49
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Every so often my house's air conditioning system will decide that it's really feeling like being a butthole and not work. Usually, there isn't any air coming out of the vents, and the part that's outside goes nonstop. If I don't find out about it for a while, like today, the outside part gets frosty:  If I shut the breaker off and let it thaw, everything's great again. It seems to happen about once a month, so it's not the end of the world if it's too hard or expensive to fix, but if it's fairly cheap and easy I'd love to go ahead and do it. Any ideas?
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Aug 27, 2013 23:33
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The Human Cow posted:Every so often my house's air conditioning system will decide that it's really feeling like being a butthole and not work. Usually, there isn't any air coming out of the vents, and the part that's outside goes nonstop. If I don't find out about it for a while, like today, the outside part gets frosty: That pipe should be insulated.
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Aug 28, 2013 00:02
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The Human Cow posted:Every so often my house's air conditioning system will decide that it's really feeling like being a butthole and not work. Usually, there isn't any air coming out of the vents, and the part that's outside goes nonstop. If I don't find out about it for a while, like today, the outside part gets frosty: You are low on refrigerant because there is a leak somewhere. How expensive it will be depends on what is leaking.
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Aug 28, 2013 00:22
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So I talked to my friend who sells commercial HVAC. He said that it probably wouldn't be low refrigerant issues if the pipe wasn't frozen. He was right. Guy came out yesterday and discovered a voltage issue and installed a hard start kit and fixed a small oil leak. Good to go!
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Aug 28, 2013 13:28
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The Human Cow posted:Every so often my house's air conditioning system will decide that it's really feeling like being a butthole and not work. Usually, there isn't any air coming out of the vents, and the part that's outside goes nonstop. If I don't find out about it for a while, like today, the outside part gets frosty: No air coming out of the vents? Can you hear the blower motor inside running at all? If the blower is deciding to stop randomly stuff will freeze up like that. Or if the blower is running but there's no real volume of air coming out the vents your A-coil inside is probably frozen up too. Filters good? A-coil will be above or below the filters (depending on the direction of the airflow, it gets filtered air) and behind a panel. Looks like 2 little diagonal radiators in an A shape. You may want to check it to make sure it's not dirty/obstructing the airflow and that its condensate/water drain pipe isn't blocked up. Edit: and be super careful not to bump into any of the little bitty copper tubes.
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Aug 28, 2013 14:56
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More HVAC Chat: So the house we're moving into had one of those fancy electronic air filters installed in the furnace, but we won't be using it as 1) It doesn't work, and 2) the inspector said they weren't very good anyways. So, I measured what size paper filter we should get and it's one that is 5" think. I've read a few reviews that say to be careful as sometimes it may say 5" inches but it's actually slightly bigger than that. 5" ones are also harder to find. Can we get away with using one that is 4" thick? Is it a big deal if it doesn't span the entire thickness?
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Aug 28, 2013 15:51
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