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iostream.h posted:I know several guys who'd rather run modded 800s v/s the 900s due to (apparent) reliability issues, mainly with the tube sockets I think. I've never had an issue with the couple of 900s I've owned, but I dunno. I think it was the later 900s and the SL-X models with the issues, but Marshall's build quality kinda took a dive in the 90s all around, apart from their Valvestate line. But then again it's not like there weren't always inconsistencies, plus Marshall sourced different components all the time based on what kind of deals they could get, so people going apeshit over one amp or another are really going apeshit over that particular amp that happened to have the right combination of components. e: or I could be mixing the SL-Xs up with the Dual Reverbs. Whichever came later. Alec Bald Snatch fucked around with this message at 01:34 on Aug 20, 2013 |
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Aug 20, 2013 01:27
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| # ? May 10, 2024 10:34 |
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For what it's worth, if you have multiple guitars playing, cutting down on the gain allows more note separation and prevents mud. It also tends to sound better in a band context. As far as midrange goes, it helps to tailor your tone to the rest of the band; that is, someone should be taking up the space in the middle of the sonic spectrum, be it your bassist, a guitarist, or whatever. Anyways, I was looking at the Fender Bronco bass amp. I don't know if 40 SS watts is enough to compete with a drummer as a bassist, but the modeling seems nice, and I suppose I could use it as a preamp into a PA. Has anyone played one?
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Aug 20, 2013 20:19
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I'd be really, really surprised if it could keep up with a drummer. My rule of thumb is 100 watts, period, for playing with drums. Even that is rarely enough these days. I can recommend the Fender Rumble 350 head. It doesn't sound good, but it does sound loud! It's also so small that I've been carrying it around as a backup for my SVT.
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Aug 20, 2013 21:32
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It will not keep up with a drummer, guaranteed. Look around for a restock / used Ampeg BA115HP (the 220watt version), should only run around $100 more than one of those Broncos new. It's like a little bass cannon. Functions perfectly well as a practice amp. Also end table. http://www.ampeg.com/products/bassamp/ba115hp/
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Aug 21, 2013 19:22
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That's unfortunate. I like the Fender Mustang modeling technology and was looking forward to using it in a bass amp.  Anyways here's Phil X talking about low gain vs. high gain amps (if you hate Phil X, don't worry, he's not very Phil X-y in this clip) https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QCDY6rZTri8
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Aug 22, 2013 00:26
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So I traded my Marshall MG412A for a 1979 Peavey 412F cab. The back panel says it's 300w @ 4 ohm. I am using a late 90s Peavey Transtube Series Bandit 112 http://forums.peavey.com/viewtopic.php?f=19&t=14177 to power it. It's 80w/100w depending on if the line out jack is used and the back of the amp says 8 ohm minimum load. Cursory research says I'm okay as long as I don't crank it. Is this true? Also, I also kind of want an amp head but I'm limited to about 300$ and Amazon only. Looking at the Behringer VT100FX and the Fender Mustang V. The Behringer says 4ohms out so that's fine, but the Mustang V says 8om minimum once again. Mainly looking at heads 'cuz when using the Bandit to power the cab I can't hear the quality of my new cab cuz the internal Bandit speaker is still being used as well. Help, goons!
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Aug 22, 2013 21:12
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You ought to rewire the speakers in the cabinet to the desired load. You could be fine if you don't drive them hard, or you could not. It's hard to say. If the amplifier expects an 8 ohm load and the speakers are providing 4 you risk damage to the speakers. Alternatively, check the docs on that model of amp. Sometimes the output transformer has a threshold of acceptability- old Fenders have +/- 100%, so check the docs. How much volume do you need? That's the biggest question if you're looking for a head under $300.
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Aug 22, 2013 21:42
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jwh posted:You ought to rewire the speakers in the cabinet to the desired load. You could be fine if you don't drive them hard, or you could not. It's hard to say. If the amplifier expects an 8 ohm load and the speakers are providing 4 you risk damage to the speakers. Mainly to satisfy my inner bigger is better I love it loud mentality I really want to power the cab as much as possible. I don't NEED to be loud, I just enjoy it. Playing mainly stoner rock and doom metal, and would be taking the head to my drummer's house to practice on his 1960 Marshall cabs. Anybody know anything about the Behringer? The Mustang V?
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Aug 22, 2013 23:31
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If you want loud I've got a Bugera 333 I can hook you up with for around your budget. It's actually a drat fine sounding head.
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Aug 23, 2013 03:50
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Take this guy up on the Bug amp.
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Aug 23, 2013 04:13
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iostream.h posted:If you want loud I've got a Bugera 333 I can hook you up with for around your budget. It's actually a drat fine sounding head. That sounds like a sweet deal, but above I mentioned Amazon only cuz I have credit there. Looking at the 333 though really makes Me think I should wait until i can afford it.
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Aug 23, 2013 05:42
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We may be able to work something out, let me poke around a bit on amazon.
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Aug 23, 2013 06:01
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iostream.h posted:We may be able to work something out, let me poke around a bit on amazon. Email me at gargamale at gee mail if you get any bright ideas. Goons sure are awesome!
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Aug 23, 2013 11:24
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So i just got this back. Powertubes went out and fried some parts, all better now. It's running some Svetlana 6L6s I'm not a big fan of, but I don't have the money for JJs at the moment. Now for some reason, the guy who dicked around with the amp found it necessary to rewire the inputs. Since getting it back I've noticed a really loud crackling sound when I bring the volume knob all the way down on my guitar and when I switch pickups. It only does this with the Low gain channel, the other works fine. I'm think it's a grounding issue, but I really know fuckall about electric circuits.
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Aug 24, 2013 16:14
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Understanding posted:So i just got this back. Try cleaning the pots first. If it was a grounding issue you'd probably be hearing the hum even with the pickups turned up. If you're handy with a soldering iron and know how to discharge capacitors then you can crack it open and make sure everything's all nice and clean but if not just take it to an amp tech.
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Aug 24, 2013 16:45
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Declan MacManus posted:Try cleaning the pots first. If it was a grounding issue you'd probably be hearing the hum even with the pickups turned up. If you're handy with a soldering iron and know how to discharge capacitors then you can crack it open and make sure everything's all nice and clean but if not just take it to an amp tech. It's not some random crackling sound, it's a definite loud pop when I'm turning my guitar volume down from 2 to 0, so where no signal begins to come through or a momentary break in the circuit results in this noise. And only in the Low gain input. I'll have to try it on another guitar to see if it happens again. Also, I can't afford to retube it with tubes I want, sure as hell can't afford the bench fees to get an amp tech to look at it right now. I'd like an idea of what's the problem and the likelihood I'd get electrocuted. High gain input works perfectly tho. But discharging the caps sounds like a good lead: Some amp guitar site after some googling posted:Soft popping when switching pickups (happens most often when there is a preamp in the guitar). The Modern Sky fucked around with this message at 17:06 on Aug 24, 2013 |
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Aug 24, 2013 17:02
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If you are using the Low input on that amp you are doing it wrong.
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Aug 26, 2013 13:44
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I've never owned a tube amp until about a year ago so I have no real idea how to do maintenance on one. When you replace the tubes do you have to rebias them if you buy the same make and model? Aside from avoiding touching the filter caps it should be an easy job right? Literally just unplug the amp the day before and keep it overnight with all the knobs turned up and every switch on, turn everything off, replace tubes, and that's it. Or is there some other dumb poo poo I'm not including like "start her up on a variac so you don't blow a tube" or something?
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Aug 26, 2013 13:49
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Francodipshit posted:Or is there some other dumb poo poo I'm not including like "start her up on a variac so you don't blow a tube" or something? 
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Aug 26, 2013 15:06
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Alright after I pick up replacement tubes I'll stop by one of the Cuban Santeria shops and pick up some live chickens and frogs. The now headless chickens will scare away the bad electrons and the frogs will be used as fuses.
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Aug 26, 2013 15:13
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But seriously, other than basic electronics safety poo poo is it really as easy as "pull tube out, put new tube in, play amp" because some of the instructions I've googled are either that simple or are incredibly spergy about the whole affair.
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Aug 26, 2013 15:27
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Francodipshit posted:I've never owned a tube amp until about a year ago so I have no real idea how to do maintenance on one. When you replace the tubes do you have to rebias them if you buy the same make and model? Aside from avoiding touching the filter caps it should be an easy job right? Literally just unplug the amp the day before and keep it overnight with all the knobs turned up and every switch on, turn everything off, replace tubes, and that's it. Or is there some other dumb poo poo I'm not including like "start her up on a variac so you don't blow a tube" or something? Pretty much every company sets the bias cold at the factory because few people bother to do it when they change tubes, so if you don't want to do it you don't have to. It's not a bad idea if you have a certain brand you like and plan on sticking with to set it higher and leave it, though IMHO there's generally a fairly subtle difference between extremely cold and hot biases. A little more compression and mid range emphasis, but that's about it. Eurotubes has a pretty good set of how-to videos for various amps plus a generic one: http://www.eurotubes.com/eurotubes-how-to-bias-video-probe-Pro-One.htm e: Yeah if you just want to pop in new tubes just take the old ones out and put in the new ones with the amp turned off. Be careful not to snap off the little tip on preamp tubes, and keep the old ones for spares. Alec Bald Snatch fucked around with this message at 16:11 on Aug 26, 2013 |
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Aug 26, 2013 16:08
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You really ought to bias the amp with new power tubes, but you certainly don't have to.
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Aug 26, 2013 16:09
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Francodipshit posted:But seriously, other than basic electronics safety poo poo is it really as easy as "pull tube out, put new tube in, play amp" because some of the instructions I've googled are either that simple or are incredibly spergy about the whole affair. Once you know how your amp runs it's not a huge deal, you kind of learn how it reacts and you can generally tell if something's off. Edit: Incidentally, for tube amps, power conditioners ESPECIALLY in random venues, are amazing things. iostream.h fucked around with this message at 16:34 on Aug 26, 2013 |
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Aug 26, 2013 16:24
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Oh yeah this is just my little egnater practice amp so I'm not worried about it sounding pitch perfect. There should be a bias pot in there if I need to, I just didn't want to touch it. Thanks guys. Also power conditioners are awesome for gigging. I really do think it would be worth it to get an ATA case that I can shove a head and power conditioner into if I ever start gigging for real.
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Aug 26, 2013 17:19
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jwh posted:You really ought to bias the amp with new power tubes, but you certainly don't have to. Well it depends on if it's cathode or fixed. If it's cathode bias then you just pop the tubes in. If it's fixed it's a little more involved.
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Aug 26, 2013 17:20
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Declan MacManus posted:Well it depends on if it's cathode or fixed. If it's cathode bias then you just pop the tubes in. If it's fixed it's a little more involved. That's a good and important point!
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Aug 26, 2013 17:43
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Are there any US distributors for Joyo's amps?
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Aug 26, 2013 19:26
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Also when you replace your tubes, make sure you're wearing gloves, and if you can't wear gloves, wipe down the tube after you've put it in. The oils on your fingers collect on the glass and create hotspots that wear out the tubes faster. And another thing, don't worry about tubes "getting old"; you should replace your tubes when they sound bad. There's no set schedule; if they sound good (and they're audible), then they're fine. If you're not sure, then crack open the amp and look at the tubes. They turn white or cloudy when they're cooked. Also make sure your amp is always attached to a speaker or dummy load if you turn it on. If it's not attached to any sort of resistance it'll blow.
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Aug 26, 2013 23:29
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I think I'll just wipe them down afterwards because the only gloves I currently have are covered in motor oil from my old job. And oh yeah, it's so time to change them. The amp's just lost it's, for lack of a better term, mojo. Kinda like how you know when to change guitar strings, but amp-wise. I'm really sure I've tortured the first pre-amp tube from directly inputting a really strong signal and then also the other preamp tubes because I have the gain on full blast. Don't judge. I love high gain. gently caress chord definition. I'll do more research into the type of tubes egnater stock puts in and also check out some decent places to get it professionally done for when I finally butch up and buy a louder/nicer amp.
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Aug 27, 2013 00:08
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Declan MacManus posted:Also when you replace your tubes, make sure you're wearing gloves, and if you can't wear gloves, wipe down the tube after you've put it in. The oils on your fingers collect on the glass and create hotspots that wear out the tubes faster. Yeah this isn't true.
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Aug 27, 2013 01:45
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the wizards beard posted:Yeah this isn't true.
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Aug 27, 2013 01:51
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Yeah, because halogen bulbs can start to leak gas when oils+heat degrade the quartz glass. Tubes are made out of plain old glass, and aren't in any danger of leaking halogen and maybe exploding.
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Aug 27, 2013 02:07
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the wizards beard posted:Yeah this isn't true. It's what I was told when I started working on amps and it's what I've always heard.  Better safe than sorry (not that it means I haven't been wrong all these years and trusting a guy named Burt to know the ins and outs of vacuum tube safety)
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Aug 27, 2013 02:24
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I'm looking to downgrade the rig I bought six months ago as it's just too big and heavy, and I don't play it loud enough. I have a Soldano SP-77 pre-amp, a TC Electronic G Major and a Marshall 9100 power amp. I pretty much only use the delay on the G Major and as I can't play the amp loud enough I use pedals for distortion. I play 80ies hair metal/hard rock and I've been looking at a Blackstar HT Club 50 head. I would love to have a JCM 800, but I'd like to keep the price under 800€, and again, I'll rarely be able to crank it. Any other suggestions? EDIT: I've considered relying mainly on pedals for distortion as I like my Fat Sandwich. Boz0r fucked around with this message at 10:07 on Aug 27, 2013 |
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Aug 27, 2013 10:01
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Traynor Iron Horse! €395 http://www.thomann.de/gb/traynor_dh40h_ironhorse_b_stock.htm
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Aug 27, 2013 16:08
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Boz0r posted:I'm looking to downgrade the rig I bought six months ago as it's just too big and heavy, and I don't play it loud enough. I have a Soldano SP-77 pre-amp, a TC Electronic G Major and a Marshall 9100 power amp. I pretty much only use the delay on the G Major and as I can't play the amp loud enough I use pedals for distortion. The HT series are alright but they're not really "pedal" amps since the clean channel only has one tone knob.
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Aug 27, 2013 18:29
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That's what they make multiband EQs and effects loops for, duh. Boz0r, that Blackstar head is probably good enough for what you want on its own, maybe with a boost. Plus it's a master volume so you can play it a little quieter. It sounds decent and I'm not really a fan of Blackstars. A JCM 800 unless you get it modded you're not gonna be able to play it at a non-deafening volume and have it sound "right".
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Aug 27, 2013 18:53
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Does anyone have any experience with Hovercraft amps? They look/sound rad as gently caress and the dude behind them sounds really cool. I'm just wondering if it'll be worth it to drop (probably) $900+ on an amp I haven't gotten to play in person. http://www.hovercraftamps.com/ There's a lot more info and samples on their Facebook page.
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Aug 28, 2013 17:38
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gargamale posted:Email me at gargamale at gee mail if you get any bright ideas. Goons sure are awesome!
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Aug 29, 2013 03:04
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