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Life...uh...uh...finds a way ETA: here have a picture of Sepsis being an rear end in a top hat and trying to strike after I had him outside because he thought he was a ~wild snake~ 
Captain Foxy fucked around with this message at 15:38 on Aug 16, 2013 |
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Aug 16, 2013 15:35
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Growing my first batch of superworms! I hope. Go on and party like college kids!
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Aug 16, 2013 17:52
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I got my chicks from Rodent Pro earlier this week and took a couple out tonight to feed the corns. Holy poo poo did they go crazy for them. The bigger of the two was crawling out of his tank before I had even finished removing the lid to get after that sweet chicken. He is now slithering around looking for more...Fat rear end. The smaller, more prone to refusal, corn took it just as quickly and is curled up half napping/half looking for another one.
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Aug 17, 2013 05:00
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Went to the PDX Metro Reptile Expo today, with House of Reptiles. Sold some herpes~ White-Lipped python wants my pie. NO SNAKE BAD SNAKE  Our big sweet tangerine Honduran milk, being chill to kids  Boss and the baby White-Lipped. Surprisingly mellow and non-snappy for his species.  Pissed-as-hell p. breitensteini deciding today was the day to shed. There's always one.   Our table. Undoubtably the only one there without a single beardie, leo, crestie or ball python. Weird stuff is my boss's priority.  Like this dude; Aspidites melanocephalus. A big nasty rope of bite and musk but god I love him so much.  Babby tegu. This one is nervy and whips the poo poo out of you with the tail.  TOUCH THE SNAKE, REBEL AGAINST YOUR PARENTS  Red-Foot making a veerrrry slooooow escape. (He was apprehended) Some other tables:    It's my second week so far of working at the House, and it's frankly awesome. I fed baby caiman, watched a king cobra get an eyecap removed, patted and scratched some tegus (constantly), got bitten by a flying gecko and musked on by a hyper bullsnake, and watched a masssive female burm take a 12lb f/t rabbit. Then we did the show and now I'm exhausted, but somehow still love reptiles and love doing this, so I must be crazy.
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Aug 18, 2013 03:37
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About 3 weeks ago I adopted a friend's corn snake. Purchased from Petco in January, he's a little over a foot long now and about as wide as a finger. I don't technically know how old he is. After feeding him, refreshing his aspen, buying a heat pad, digital thermometer, temperature controller, cutting up a paper towel tube and arranging everything along with his existing hide and water bowl to create a heat gradient; I hope he is better off now. My friend mentioned that he recently had a shed. I saw that part of his skin was pale and puckered, so I Googled around and realized it was an incomplete shed. I built him a humidity hide out of a plastic soup container and moist paper towels. After avoiding it for a few days, he finally spent a day chilling inside then left a nice long piece of old skin around the tank. There's about an inch still left on his tail. Is there anything else I can do for that? I replace the paper towels every couple of days. He spent the majority of today inside it, so maybe he'll shed again. How much should I be handling him? I know snakes aren't cuddlers, as much as I think he's cute, but I don't want him to be this nervous when he gets bigger. He was barely handled when he was with my friend. Because he's so skittish, I only hold him when taking him out for feeds and tank maintenance. I don't want him to bite me, but I don't want him to be stressed out by over-handling. I read somewhere about tap water being bad for corn snakes, so I fill his water bowl with drinking water every couple days. I just realized that I've been using tap water and bleached paper towels for his humidity hide. Is tap water really bad? Are regular paper towels dangerous as well? Advice welcome! I'm just trying to do right by a little neglected corn snake.
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Aug 21, 2013 10:47
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So I've got two male Red Ear Sliders and they have been getting a tad aggressive lately(doing the vibrating claws in each others face thing). Donatello is the smaller one and Leonardo is the bigger. Today Leonardo was fanning and his penis was hanging out and Donatello bit it, twice. They werent bad bites, but Leonardo was bleeding a bit and had trouble getting his penis to retract. He actually managed to climb to his basking spot and push it back in, purposefully. I watched him do it and have never seen him physically move that way. Im curious if I should still take him to an exotics vet. Also I will be separating them now as they clearly dont like each other and I know this will only get worse. Which is unfortunate as I loved having these two guys in the same tank and its going to SUCK to have to double the costs of everything now.
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Aug 22, 2013 01:06
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Construction question: I'm thinking about making a new cage for Beldar, and want to make it with a basin and drain to keep water from dripping out/off the side onto the carpet. Anybody know a decent way to do this? I've considered using one of the basins washing machines sit in, but they're a little large for what I've got to work with and dont' seem like they'd lend themselves to being built upon. I was thinking about covering 3 walls in Coroplast or something similar, and a mixture of mesh, open area, and colored plexi(with silicone cricket-lube of course) on top, and a mesh bottom/plexi top for the door. It's very dry here and I have constant problems keeping his humidity at a decent level(I have a regularly-cleaned ultrasonic humidifier flowing into his cage 24/7), but using anything reflective is right out of the question since he'll stress to death trying to kill his reflection. If anybody has recommendations for things that fit those needs, or experience building something similar I'd be very grateful for the advice.
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Aug 24, 2013 21:00
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 Just a week ago our new hatchling blizzard cornsnake came in! He settled into his new home pretty fast and has been doing very well with handling from both my girlfriend and I. My girlfriend once owned a python so snake ownership isn't completely foreign to her, but since this is my first pet snake, let alone a hatchling, l've still got a little bit of new parent anxiety about feeding the snake: 1) About 5 days after our snake arrived we didn't realize he was shedding (no clouded eyes and his white morph made it harder to determine) and obviously when we tried to feed him he was disinterested in the food/stressed out and agitated from being messed with. Second time attempting to feed him, after a little bit of handling (which he warmed up to pretty fast), I put him in the feeding box and he still seemed a little skittish and nervous, as if he was intimidated by the pinky when i dangled it infront of him.  Even when left alone with it he'll just slither away and stare at it at the other end of the feeding box. It was only after tapping him lightly on the nose and generally sort of working him up (holding the mouse and lightly tapping him all around his body when he tries to slither away.) He doesn't seem uninterested in the food since he'll inspect it and stay with it (he even sometimes open his mouth as if he's going to bite and then stops) but actually getting my otherwise docile snake to strike at it and eat it like a predator instead of cower from it/nervously sit with it doing nothing takes a little riling up. Is this okay? I don't want to have my snake associate eating with being stressed out or anything. 2) How long do you recommend leaving the snake in the feeding box after it has finished its meal? I don't want to agitate it or (got forbid) cause it puke, which also begs the question, is there any good way to handle the then-digesting snake from the feeding box to it's tank to avoid getting bit/making it sick? I'm also wondering: Does anyone know any Feeder Pinky Mice Sellers in NYC? Thank you! Herr Shitlord fucked around with this message at 05:09 on Aug 25, 2013 |
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Aug 25, 2013 01:12
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I would not recommend trying to feed a snake after handling them. Handling stresses snakes so trying to feed them after handling might cause them to reject the food, even if they seem okay with the handling. Excessive handling before feeding can lead to later regurgitation, too. It took both of my hognose about 2 weeks after they were shipped to start eating, it really just depends on the snake. Also, when I used to use feeding boxes, I'd let them sit for an extra 5-10 minutes depending on the size of them and their food.
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Aug 25, 2013 08:16
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Funny thing is, when I brought home my hognoses almost two years ago, both babies were calm after the long car ride, but the female was acting a bit antsy once I put her in her QT cage. I offered her a pinkie and bam, she had that thing down before I had the lid back on. She's a great eater, and the male will go a few weeks between meals. Alice (aka Alice Alice Full of Malice when she's doing her puff adder impression) wants food every other day.
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Aug 25, 2013 10:38
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Pew! Pew! posted:I would not recommend trying to feed a snake after handling them. Handling stresses snakes so trying to feed them after handling might cause them to reject the food, even if they seem okay with the handling. Excessive handling before feeding can lead to later regurgitation, too. Oh gosh, badly written sentence there, I meant that I had lightly handled the snake between the days after the shedding and leading up to the feeding, not the day of. That is good to know though since I could have easily seen myself doing that. How do you pick your snakes up after they've finished eating/resting in the feeding? Are they usually a little more snappish?
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Aug 25, 2013 19:20
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Well, in depressing turtle news looks like desert tortoises are more screwed then before http://m.washingtonpost.com/nationa...9897_story.html
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Aug 25, 2013 19:24
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I'm going to move in about a month up to New Jersey. Anyone got tips for helping snakes not stress too much on long car rides? It'll be about 13 hours with 2-3 breaks. I'm guessing humid, dark containers would help?
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Aug 27, 2013 15:45
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Saint Seafoam posted:
The petco near me has a freezer with every size of mouse. I reared a corn on their pinkies. Just make sure you buy a lot of whatever kind of mouse you need and start looking to buy more before you run out because every once in a while they are out of stock of a particular size.
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Aug 27, 2013 16:38
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Pew! Pew! posted:I'm going to move in about a month up to New Jersey. Anyone got tips for helping snakes not stress too much on long car rides? It'll be about 13 hours with 2-3 breaks. I'm guessing humid, dark containers would help? I transported about 5 snakes 16 hours in one day. I kept them in rubbermade totes with airholes and kept them in a secured, dark area hidden from direct sunlight. I checked on them every 3-4 hours when I made a pit stop and I made sure to never let the car get too hot, but did keep it slightly warmer then I liked, at about 25C. I don't really think you need to worry about humidity for such a short period of time, unless you got a tricky arboreal species who is in mid shed. For my green tree pythons I used PVC pipe structures siliconed onto the floor of a taller rubbermade for them to coil around, but didn't do any humidification. Didn't have any problems when they got back into their enclosure. Just make sure the lids on your transport tubs are secured, and maybe avoid feeding them a day or two before they travel. I've also seen people transport snakes in pillow cases. I've only done this for very short periods of time, but heard people do it for much longer. Snakes bags are essentially pillow cases with a draw string. Snakes usually travel really good because it's a dark, tightly fitting confined space. As long as they don't freeze or fry everything should be good. big dig fucked around with this message at 17:06 on Aug 27, 2013 |
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Aug 27, 2013 17:04
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Saint Seafoam posted:
The easy solution: feed him in his enclosure. He already feels secure there (I assume) and I've never found a snake who is aggressive because they are fed in their enclosure. Snakes don't have that kind of brain power.
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Aug 27, 2013 17:27
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At one point i started tossing in mice in my corns tank and now he'll atrike at anything if you go in fast  Working on that. Nt aggresive of course, just conditioned to think that something flying into his tank is a mouse
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Aug 27, 2013 18:34
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When I first got my corn he would refuse about every other pinky we gave him, was terrified of the thing any time I offered it to him with tongs and would basically hide for hours and hours before he even seemed to come out and sniff it. The solution I found was to cover the tank up with a dark sheet/towel about 8 hours before I was going to feed, then quickly put the mouse in the tank on a small dish (I use a little glass sauce dish) and then cover it back up - once I started that, he ate every single time. Now he's trained to know that his food goes in that dish. If I forget to take it out after he's eaten, he'll sit by it and wait for more, or when he's hungry he'll go coil up right next to where I sit it as if to say, "IM WAITING WHERE IS DINNER?!"
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Aug 28, 2013 02:51
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Malalol posted:At one point i started tossing in mice in my corns tank and now he'll atrike at anything if you go in fast YEAH Having to work on this with my redtail right now because I got lazy and just started tossing her meals in her tank. She bonked me with her nose when I went to change her water the other day and it was a nice reminder that I should probably stop doing that.
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Aug 28, 2013 04:23
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I'm really curious about how MBD works in herps, due to lack of proper care. Some critters show it fast while some never show it at all (from a far away glance). We've this young (juvie now I guess) beardie who looks like crap, hes paralyzed past his front legs and even those are pretty wonky. I dont know if its just from a few weeks of being here, or a week with someone else but he is not going to get better. On the other hand, I had someone come ask me about lights because his guy wasnt eating- after some prodding, its a bearded dragon. And it lives in a 10g- which okay, probably a teensy baby. Turns out to be full sized, had it for a few years with no uvb source at all just a heat lamp. And was fed 'crickets and sometimes lettuce'. I dont know what it looks like, but shouldnt it be dead? Or at least completely messed up and is a lump but you cant really tell since it can't move in a 10g. Theres also quite a number of sliders that seem to do okay without any UVB lighting (I figure they can get by barely with turtle pellet that have calc or whatever) that are yeaaars old. Though I know for every 1 that is fine, theres quite a bit more dead ones that didnt make it. I know it can take them a while to show signs but whenever I see them, they move around fine with either a hard shell or one that doesnt look 'off' (abandoned ones, random restaurant ones, etc). I dont know how they are internally though obviously. Superconsndar posted:YEAH Having to work on this with my redtail right now because I got lazy and just started tossing her meals in her tank. She bonked me with her nose when I went to change her water the other day and it was a nice reminder that I should probably stop doing that. but you still have a nose I dunno, also noticed my corn is amazingly investigatory compared to the other guys. Ill open the tank and all the snakes are like, ehhhhhhh stop bothering me, but the moment I'm unlocking his lid, hes all up in my business, probably waiting for flying mice.
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Aug 28, 2013 05:24
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If feeding in the tank conditions the snake to think any intrusion is feeding time, wouldn't removing the snake to feed condition it to associate handling with food? I've been keeping snakes for 20 years, and unless it's got a cagemate, I always feed in the cage.
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Aug 28, 2013 05:31
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Big Centipede posted:If feeding in the tank conditions the snake to think any intrusion is feeding time, wouldn't removing the snake to feed condition it to associate handling with food? This is reassuring to me, because I got sick of putting Zelos in a feeding container every time. I like chucking the mice in his tank, brushing my teeth and then coming back to mice gone/happy snake and go to bed, but I was worried cause everyone is like DO NOT FEED IN THE TANK!!!
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Aug 28, 2013 05:44
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cryingscarf posted:This is reassuring to me, because I got sick of putting Zelos in a feeding container every time. I like chucking the mice in his tank, brushing my teeth and then coming back to mice gone/happy snake and go to bed, but I was worried cause everyone is like DO NOT FEED IN THE TANK!!! It's a matter of personal preference. Don't worry. A lot of people really believe in putting snakes in feeding containers, but I've never noticed a difference in behavior because of it.
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Aug 28, 2013 06:02
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Big Centipede posted:If feeding in the tank conditions the snake to think any intrusion is feeding time, wouldn't removing the snake to feed condition it to associate handling with food? exactly, and moving a snake that just ate, well depending on the type of snake can be risking a bite because they are still in 'feeding mode'. Depends if they are the 'one and done' type of eater or the 'eat as much as I can possibly fit in my stomach' type. I think moving them to a different container is a silly and outdated practice...but yeah whatever your personal preference is, if you feel safer feeding them outside the enclosure whatever it isn't going to harm the snake  As soon as I open my snakes' tubs, some of them might get excited for food if it is close to their feeding day, but once they realize it is me and not food they chill out immediately. Just don't smell like rodents.
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Aug 28, 2013 15:04
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If my snakes aren't bitey being fed in their tank, I don't really care. Joker, however, will try to nail the hell out of you every time you open the top of his tank. If he's moved between a feeding bin and his normal tank, he chills out a lot. But he's the only one between the snakes I've dealt with, including the zoo snakes.
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Aug 28, 2013 15:16
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Well good then, maybe I just caught her at a bad time, because she's never struck at me before. Moving to containers for feeding is a PITA so I won't bother.
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Aug 28, 2013 15:20
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I just realized it's been a year since I've had Photon, he's 18 months old now. Haapppy birthday to my sad gay clown convention! He went from this (sooo angry):    To this (only slightly less angry):     To celebrate, he got some silkworms and an upgrade to his permanent big-boy cage. He's sulking about it now. Datura has also been upgraded to her big girl digs. Seems pretty happy about it. She eats in cage, fyi, as does Sepsis, and so far no issues with inappropriate striking.     Annnd to cap it off, the Tokay pair have another late-summer gift for us. Still waiting on the second egg in the clutch, but Dad is already pretty serious about guarding the first one.   Crucio, are you excited to have a sibling??   "No."
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Aug 29, 2013 06:08
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Crucio might be the most appropriate name for a tokay ever.
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Aug 29, 2013 15:02
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What morph is Datura? She's so pretty. 
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Aug 29, 2013 16:23
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Seeking a resource for amazon native herps (frogs and lizards) that are also available easily in captivity. A school proj. looking for an amazon biotope (big paludarium really) but with critters that arent so pricey.
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Aug 29, 2013 17:27
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Once upon a time (two weeks ago) I was in OC New Jersey walking down the board walk with a few friends when we heard some commotion coming from one of the stores. There was lots of screaming and suddenly this little streak of green shot out of the entrance. Being the super cool dude that I am I scooped it up as it ran by and walked inside to see what happened. As it turns out the shop sold, among other things, Green Iguanas of varying sizes. One of them made an escape attempt while an employee was cleaning it's cage, and that's what all the screaming was about. Ten minutes later I was happily walking back to our hotel with the escape artist snug in a carrying case. That's how I got Eddy, my green iguana. I have no idea of Eddy's gender so if it turns out that Eddy is not a boy I'll just call her Eddi. I'm fairly sure he's only a month or two old, in the entire time I've had him he's shed once, gotten a little bigger, and he's been eating and pooping on a frequent basis. Since I came back to college Eddy's been living in a 20 gallon aquarium that I've re-purposed into a terrarium. I know that Igs require lots of space and that his cage is on the small size, and I'm already looking into either buying or building a larger, more suitable home for Eddy. This is the first herp I've ever owned, but I did a ton of research on Igs since I got him and I think I'm doing everything right. His habitat has a little rock cave for him to hide in, water tray, branch to bask on, night and day heat lamps on timers, and a desk lamp with a UVB CFL in it about 6 inches from where he basks. His diet consists of collard greens with added diced up mango, green beans, bell peppers, butternut squash, and other suitable fruits and veggies added to mix it up a little. I mist his tank with a spray bottle at least twice a day, and give him fresh food and water every morning before class. His house is centered right in front of a 6' by 10' window that has sunshine for the majority of the day. Eddy doesn't like being picked up but when I open his cage he doesn't immediately bolt for his cave, sometimes he'll even let me gently touch him with a single finger very slowly. From where his cage is placed he can see out the window and watches my roommates and I whenever we're in the room, I think he's slowly getting used to people. I was hoping that anyone else who keeps iguanas would have advice for getting him used to being touched/picked up and any other tips to keep him healthy and happy for a long time. This is my first really long post on SA, happy to be a member of the community for real. Thanks! Also, I got most of my info from https://www.greenigsociety.org/ so if I'm doing something wrong you know who to send your rage mail to. 
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Aug 29, 2013 18:35
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Malalol posted:Seeking a resource for amazon native herps (frogs and lizards) that are also available easily in captivity. A school proj. looking for an amazon biotope (big paludarium really) but with critters that arent so pricey. Dendrobates leucomelas and tinctorius are both from the Upper Amazon, fairly cheap (I'm selling leuc froglets for $35 each, and tincs are around the same price), and not hard to care for. I don't know what a biotope would consist of beyond the native plants, though; despite same origin and habitat, you'd only be able to have one species of animal for any of the herps down there I can think of.
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Aug 29, 2013 19:29
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About the only red flag I see in your post is that you're relying on light from a window (?) instead of a basking light, and CFL UVBs aren't the best source, because they emit UVC, which can lead to a vitamin A deficiency and eventual blindesss. I would look into a mercury vapor bulb asap; they're more expensive, but they provide both heat and UVB in a way that won't emit UVC and hurt his eyesight the way a CFL bulb will. An ig should be provided with both a basking source and an appropriate UVB, so I would update that asap. For handling, the general advice with any reptile is forced socialization; a few minutes a day, every day, of calm, gentle handling and Eddy should grow accustomed to being messed with. Don't go at his pace because you'll never get anywhere. Remember that reptiles don't WANT to be around you at all, so if you leave it up to him, he'll be a tail-slapping rear end in a top hat and be very happy, but he is a large lizard and needs to accept some level of handling, so it's important that he gets used to it. A few quick sessions per week should smooth that out. Other than that, you've taken on an extreme challenge with an ig, and I don't envy you, even as a chameleon owner! Soon as possible, you'll want to get him out of a glass enclosure, because any industry standard gallonage is still waaaay too little for an ig, and you'll want to build your own enclosure. Most people use wood and plastic landscape mesh, or hardware cloth, and the typical size for a growing juvenile is anywhere from 4'L x 4'H to a full adult enclosure at 4'L x 6'H. When they grow up in aquariums, they tend to have issues with bent tails and bumped noses, even in the largest of spaces, and a 20L should really really be an extremely temp setup. Good luck! Igs have a huge learning curve, so don't be afraid to decide this is too much for you and pass him on to a more experienced hobbyist, but if you can manage, they do tend to be personable and lovely animals once they're used to people. Samila posted:What morph is Datura? She's so pretty. Lesser Platinum, and thanks, she's my baby. Got her as a rescue because she's got a kinked tail from a hotspot in the inc.  Fluffy Bunnies posted:Crucio might be the most appropriate name for a tokay ever. Future siblings or pair-mates will be named Imperio, Avada and Kedavra. NERD LIFE~
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Aug 29, 2013 19:30
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Thanks! The window isn't his only source of heat, he has a CHE running 24/7 with a basking bulb during the day and an infra red bulb at night. It usually temps about 90 degrees F in his basking spot, 80-85 for the air temp in the enclosure, and about 75-80 at night. As far as the larger enclosure is concerned I was thinking of making a PVC frame that I could assemble and disassemble relatively easily when I move home after the semester. My roommates and I like to keep the air in our room at about 70 degrees F and at night it can drop down to 65 and since we're in a high rise it can get pretty dry. Since mesh isn't the best insulator should I put the heat lamps inside his habitat? He's rather active and sometimes I've woken up to him hanging from the mesh top of his terrarium so I'm worried that if I put the lamps inside his habitat he'll climb up to them and burn himself, even with bulb covers. Here's a few more pictures of him and his current setup. Majestic Eddy  Personal Space  Home Sweet Home  OMM NOM NOM  Checking out the view  King of Pride Rock  He's all self conscious  Those Eyes  There's some sort of force field here 
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Aug 29, 2013 20:36
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If it it's typically very dry in your place, line the bottom of his cage with the ground coconut coir material and keep it moist (but not soggy), it's great for keeping humidity levels high and constant. An ultrasonic humidifier piped into the cage is also great so long as you can clean it out once a week. Save for some of the spiny iguanas, as a group they like it good and humid all the time and you'll run into shed issues quick. You should also consider putting something nonporous over the part of his cage that doesn't have the basking lights on it to help retain humidity. You are right about putting the heat lamps in, never put your basking/heat lamp into the enclosure where the animal could get to it. Get an infrared bulb or a ceramic(with something that will tell you at a glance whether it's on or not, I promise you will burn the poo poo out of yourself or melt something on accident otherwise) and have them shining down through hardware cloth. Foxy, are you sure CFLs still have UVC risk? I read about that a while back, but all the manufacturers claim to have eliminated the UVC problem on their CFL bulbs a couple years ago. If you've got any current info regarding which bulbs are putting out what, I'd love to get the links to it to design around when I build a newer/better cage for Beldar.
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Aug 30, 2013 01:44
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The bulb that I'm using now is a 13 watt Repti Glo 10.0 UVB bulb, it was the only size the store had in stock that would work with the heat lamps I had. It's spaced about 8 inches from where he basks, and the timer turns it off an on every hour during his daytime cycle. Also, a lot of the people have talked about how shedding can be a problem, is that only when the skin doesn't come off easily or does that have more to do with them getting more aggressive/moody when they shed?
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Aug 30, 2013 03:56
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Anyone want some free spotted salamander juveniles? I hatched out too many on accident and now I'm having troubling finding them homes. All I'm asking is cost of shipping and materials, but feel free to message me if interested (might be slow getting back to you over this weekend, but can't ship until Tuesday anyhow.)
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Aug 30, 2013 04:01
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DiaBculls, they're talking about shed not coming off all the way, sticking to face/toes/delicate areas, etc. If not provided with the right humidity, the shed will be patchy and incomplete, and if it gets stuck to limbs or digits it can cut off circulation. Same problem with retained eyecaps. It's important to have a good hygrometer (the one I see in your pics is a stick-on, which are notoriously unreliable; you can find a better one at a herp specialty store, online or sometimes in aquarium/gardening stores, and it shouldn't be more than $12-20) to measure humidity and a good temp gun to make sure your temps are in line with what you want. Sometimes the animal can get more aggro around shed time because they can't see too well, or are itchy and irritated, so that's probably also something you're hearing. Kilersquirrel posted:
Well there was just tthis 2012 study that supposedly revealed that they're harmful to human eyes and skin, so it probably follows that it affects reptiles as well, and bear in mind, they're even more sensitive to light rays than we are, but at the same time, I haven't personally looked too deeply into it, so take that with a grain of salt. The main consensus I see on any forum (there's a discussion here that I found, and you can search UVC on chameleonforums for more) is it's a risk, and if so, why take it. Until more is known beyond manufacturers saying they're harmless, I'm playing it safe as far as what I use/recommend. As far as bulb use, I'd always recommend a good MVB (mercury vapor) over anything else. Keep in mind, position and height has a lot to do with proper absorption, so there's all kinds of fun ways you can gently caress it up with even the best equipment.
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Aug 30, 2013 06:45
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I get the feeling that transporting my snake to a feeding container stresses him out judging by the fact that he will ignore any type of food being offered to him and instead try to crawl up the sides and escape the entire time. After reading yall's comments I tried feeding him the pinkie in his enclosure (which he seemed to examine and then ignore) and finally the putting him in a shoebox with the mouse and leaving them together overnight. While he didn't eat the mouse, the face/head of the pinkie seemed to be chewed on/eaten, like he skinned and ate it. :???: I'm not really sure what this means and if it's important or what? I know snakes can go months without eating etc... so him having not eaten for a week isn't unheard of, but what concerns me is the fact that he's only 3 months old. Shouldn't he be eating more since he's still growing?
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Aug 30, 2013 11:04
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Saint Seafoam posted:I get the feeling that transporting my snake to a feeding container stresses him out judging by the fact that he will ignore any type of food being offered to him and instead try to crawl up the sides and escape the entire time. After reading yall's comments I tried feeding him the pinkie in his enclosure (which he seemed to examine and then ignore) and finally the putting him in a shoebox with the mouse and leaving them together overnight. While he didn't eat the mouse, the face/head of the pinkie seemed to be chewed on/eaten, like he skinned and ate it. :???: I'm not really sure what this means and if it's important or what? You have had him less then a week and have already tried to feed him at least three times. The solution is simple. LEAVE HIM THE HELL ALONE FOR A WHILE I know its hard but leave him alone for a week or two then try feeding him again in his enclosure. And by leave him alone I mean don't look at him don't touch him just let him be. At this point you have really stressed him out so it is not shocking that he is not eating. Keep in mind there are some species that will not eat for a month or two after hatching with no issues. Judging from the picture you posted of him I would only be worried if he did not eat for around 2 months then you could look at more extreme measures depending on what he looked like.
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Aug 30, 2013 12:39
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