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Pictures. For reference, this is what you're competing with: 
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Aug 29, 2013 05:08
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Ahhhh replacing the clutch. I took one look at the FSM on how to do it and nope'd the hell out the moment I saw the witchcraft required to remove the starter and the loosen the top bellhousing bolts. If you're looking for parts I got my OEM replacement from these guys, A+++++++ would buy again http://www.ebay.com/itm/2000-2009-H...c132c93&vxp=mtr
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Aug 29, 2013 05:31
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ACT pressure plate, OEM clutch disc, OEM TO bearing and pilot bearing. Go ahead and get new pressure plate bolts from Honda while you're at it. Actually, while you're in there, put a Exedy aluminum flywheel on it. You'll only want to take that fucker off once every long, long while. Dropping the trans isn't that much of a bastard, just time consuming. I'd recommend removing the knock sensor before going at it though, it's really easy to accidentally break the thing while trying to get at the bastard starter bolt (which you don't need to remove the alternator and AC comp to get to!)
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Aug 29, 2013 05:42
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whiskas posted:Ahhhh replacing the clutch. I took one look at the FSM on how to do it and nope'd the hell out the moment I saw the witchcraft required to remove the starter and the loosen the top bellhousing bolts. I had the same  reaction when I first looked at the process, but it's not all that bad once you get into it. I think the worst part was getting the steering shaft on and off.
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Aug 29, 2013 06:45
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Y'all act like I haven't dropped this transmission 3 times in this very thread. Also why are you touching the steering shaft? There's enough play to drop the subframe/motor 4 inches and even if there wasn't you just unbolt the 4 rack bolts and let it hang from the tie rods. Gonna try for the starter bolt from under the car this time. Cue lots of U joints and wiggly extensions. whiskas thanks for that link. As for the flywheel, the lightweight ones are only 1/4lb lighter than the stock one and the last one I put in had major vibration issues at idle. I resurfaced the one I got from the new motor yesterday. I could probably just re-use the one in the car (the clutch only has 3k miles on it) but all that better safe than sorry poo poo sounds pretty good right about now.
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Aug 29, 2013 15:04
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Took me 3 hours on the dot to get to the flywheel, thanks to not having to take off all the accessories to get to the starter bolt. Hey spring, where'd you come from?  WONDER WHY MY CLUTCH DOESN'T WORK:  I thought the flywheel grenaded because I saw the teeth all over the place, but it turns out those springs were just caught in them. Time to see if I can get a refund; this thing's only seen 5k miles tops. By the way, if anyone ever does a clutch on an S2000, this setup will save you at least 2 hours:   It's a bit of a dick getting it to fit, but it saves you from removing the intake, air box, alternator, belt tensioner, and intake manifold brace just to get to one bolt designed by some manager's retarded nephew.
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Sep 2, 2013 20:22
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Clutch springs arghhhhh.... Get a twin plate and call it a month.
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Sep 2, 2013 21:15
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Octopus Magic posted:Clutch was on the car when I bought it. I would've never put such ghetto rear end garbage on any of my cars. On top of it all, I don't even know if I have a 7 bolt flywheel anywhere to put an ACT on. I would find a nice OEM type clutch or buy an Exedy stock replacement. Nice products, reasonable prices and they make OEM clutches for some applications.
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Sep 2, 2013 22:30
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th vwls hv scpd posted:I would find a nice OEM type clutch or buy an Exedy stock replacement. Nice products, reasonable prices and they make OEM clutches for some applications. How is this post in this thread?
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Sep 3, 2013 00:13
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A sensible alternative for a guy who would rather have a car he can DD without worrying about what will break next.
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Sep 3, 2013 01:43
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8 hour clutch job finished. That new clutch disk looks so much better quality than the one I took out. Resurfaced the other flywheel I have even though the one in the car had only seen 5k miles... just in case. Think I'm gonna change my diff fluid too... just in case.
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Sep 3, 2013 13:11
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You have a sympathetic goon (and bank account) here. I spent a couple grand (parts and labor) on clutch jobs when my first slave cylinder failed trying to figure out the problem. Figured out it was the slave (an $80 part) and everything was golden. The best way to do the clutch on the S is how you did it. Put it on a lift, drop the sub frame, and grab every ratchet extension you can find. I have been running an ACT pressure plate and ACT flywheel for 50,000 miles, includes daily driving/track days/autocrosses, at 10 psi and have had ZERO issues with it. Its a bit stiffer than stock, but I'm not a girl, so I don't mind. I have heard really good things about Competition pressure plates as well. Supposedly they are as strong as the ACT with stock pedal feel. The AP1 flywheel is pretty light from factory, so no huge reason to switch, for comparison the AP2 flywheel is like 18 pounds or something like that, hence why I ditched it. Good luck with the ride. If you're ever in Miami let me know.
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Sep 4, 2013 03:10
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Thanks for the words. Welp, now I have a low-pitch rotational howling above 40mph that is speed-dependent and does not go away in neutral at speed. I figure it has to be: Front wheels Front hubs Rear wheels Rear hubs CV shafts Diff Driveshaft Since I hosed with the driveshaft-trans connection I went there first. I unbolted it, spun it 180°, and torqued it to spec with loctite. Didn't do much but it may have been a bit better. After that I changed the diff fluid. It has quieted down a bit now and the associated vibration is mostly gone. However I still have slight vibration in the steering wheel and the howling noise is muted but still there and sounds like it's coming from the front of the car. It gets more rotational and distinct when turning and the steering feels a bit sluggish (but that could be me being hypersensitive). Could it be something having to do with me dropping the subframe 4 inches? This is the 4th time it's been done. The tires aren't cupped or unevenly worn, the lug nuts are all torqued to spec, and I didn't see anything glaringly wrong with the driveline connections. Any thoughts? gently caress I'd like for this thing to run right for a while.
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Sep 5, 2013 13:12
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Do you have any play in the u-joints in the driveshaft?
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Sep 5, 2013 13:16
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They aren't so much conventional U-joints as they are that weird wonky rubber euro flex joint thing. See (stolen) picture: Also this diagram. I believe there's supposed to be some axial play already in these for shock damping, so I really can't answer that with confidence. Yes there's play but I have no clue what's acceptable and what's excessive.
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Sep 5, 2013 13:40
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Also worth noting this didn't crop up on its own. It's been there since I did the clutch this last time so I'm gravitating towards me loving with something more than a random part failing with extreme coincidence.
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Sep 5, 2013 13:44
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This whole thread has been a long, sad chronicle of you ruining a formerly nice S2000. It's the anti-project thread.
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Sep 5, 2013 14:21
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EVERYWHERE 
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That's a bit harsh. If I recall correctly this is his first time getting this balls deep in a car, and as anyone learning anything can attest, poo poo happens and mistakes are made.
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Sep 5, 2013 14:23
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meatpimp posted:This whole thread has been a long, sad chronicle of you ruining a formerly nice S2000. It's the anti-project thread. I would call this more of a reality check. Anyone who has worked on cars long enough has been stuck with a one-thing-after-another nightmare like this. It is part bad luck and part learning curve. Hats off to the OP for sticking with it, keeping us updated, and maintaining such a good attitude. Actually working on a car for real is more than many AI megaposters can claim.
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Sep 5, 2013 14:35
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CatBus posted:I would call this more of a reality check. Anyone who has worked on cars long enough has been stuck with a one-thing-after-another nightmare like this. It is part bad luck and part learning curve. Sometimes reality checks go unheeded. OP was warned that the original rebuild was over his head. Since then, it's been a cascade of consequences. If you choose to get into a job like this, you need to know when to step back and see that you're doing more damage than repair. (USER WAS PUT ON PROBATION FOR THIS POST)
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Sep 5, 2013 16:12
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Wow, thank god meatpimp is here.
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Sep 5, 2013 16:14
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Hey meatpimp hows your build thread going?
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Sep 5, 2013 16:19
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Adiabatic posted:Hey meatpimp hows your build thread going? Been there, done that. Several times (see Turbo Miata 1, Turbo Miata 2, or Forester XT, among others). Knew enough to not get in over my head and ended up with successful projects, thanks! Edit: This obviously hit a serious chord, I didn't intend for pointing out that a car that started out the thread in good shape, needing a motor swap, and is now 6 months later on its 3rd motor, at least third clutch, and left with undiagnosed drivetrain howling (along with being wrecked in the interim) to turn into a slag-fest. If UF had a project like this he would have been fully savaged by now... meatpimp fucked around with this message at 16:28 on Sep 5, 2013 |
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Sep 5, 2013 16:20
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meatpimp posted:Been there, done that. Several times. Knew enough to not get in over my head and ended up with successful projects, thanks! Hey time to move on douchebag. Engine works but you're totally right I'm in over my head when a defective clutch breaks 
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Sep 5, 2013 16:24
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meatpimp posted:This whole thread has been a long, sad chronicle of you ruining a formerly nice S2000. It's the anti-project thread. I along with many who follow this thread have enjoyed watching everything that has happened, both good and bad, and seen him take his licks and bounce back, learning more along the way. meatpimp posted:Sometimes reality checks go unheeded. OP was warned that the original rebuild was over his head. Since then, it's been a cascade of consequences. If you choose to get into a job like this, you need to know when to step back and see that you're doing more damage than repair. Look at
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Sep 5, 2013 16:25
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Adiabatic posted:Hey time to move on douchebag. Engine works but you're totally right I'm in over my head when a defective clutch breaks Just existing is enough reason for him to crawl up in your craw, don't worry about it. After a bit of abuse, you'll get an awesome t-shirt out of the deal.
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Sep 5, 2013 16:26
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West SAAB Story posted:Just existing is enough reason for him to crawl up in your craw, don't worry about it. After a bit of abuse, you'll get an awesome t-shirt out of the deal. Oh, got it now. Meatpimp is just some cranky gently caress. Sorry to bust your chops then.
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Sep 5, 2013 16:32
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Adiabatic posted:Hey time to move on douchebag. Engine works but you're totally right I'm in over my head when a defective clutch breaks Backseat mechanic here. Your clutch springs look defective. You should probably sell this car that you've ruined due to faulty manufacturing. Nevermind the 2 motor removal/reinstalltions and a rebuild in there. Granted you did try to put oversized rod bearings in a honda.  Those drat japs will bamboozle you with precision every time.
skylineboy08 fucked around with this message at 16:40 on Sep 5, 2013 |
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Sep 5, 2013 16:37
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Adiabatic I think you should just set fire to the car at this point and take up knitting. I'm speaking from experience here, my christmas sweaters are second to none.
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Sep 5, 2013 17:31
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Congrats on keeping up with the thread and trying to move forward but gently caress man, slow down and take a second when you're doing repairs. You frequently talk about having the itch to move to your next automotive project but you're never going to find satisfaction until you focus on what's in front of you rather than thinking ahead. Most of the stuff you've had problems with are the result of jumping into something without making a plan, without doing significant research, and employing friends that don't have a clue what they're doing. You trashed a perfectly good motor (f series engines regularly see 150k+ miles before any kind of problem) then upon installation of a new motor experienced a whole crop of new post-installation problems. I searched on s2ki and couldn't find any examples of people with vtec solenoids popping out after a rebuild. If your friend can't install something as rudimentary as bolts between the header and the cat he probably shouldn't be doing much on your car. s2000's are generally bulletproof and none of the problems that you have experienced happen at such volume and with such frequency. If this wasn't an s2000 you'd be getting crushed right now. Who am I to tell you what to do though? I just don't want to see you keep dropping lots of cash when you likely don't need to.
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Sep 5, 2013 17:47
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Anyone have a comment on this vibration? Edit: I've been working on that since the beginning of this thread, and it's a conscious effort the entire time I'm working on the car. Can we get back to the problem at hand? Adiabatic fucked around with this message at 18:14 on Sep 5, 2013 |
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Sep 5, 2013 18:07
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Screw it, it's a learning process. It's a drat nice car with some issues, I'm sure everyone has been there.
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Sep 5, 2013 18:14
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From 4 months and a motor ago:Motronic posted:Then maybe you should take more care and be more detail oriented. This is at least the third thing you've posted about that wasn't assembled properly. I stand by this advice, even if the OP and Kastein still want to jump on my poo poo over it. Sure, this stuff is a learning process, but it doesn't have to be a series of disasters.
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Sep 5, 2013 19:46
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I went back and checked every bolt I could get at 2 days before this clutch went. I'm constantly going over everything I do now since I blew up the rebuilt motor. I do not ever drink while working on my car. It's something I've never enjoyed doing. I don't come out and say this here because it's horrible discussion and self-indulgent. It's ridiculously easy to tell me "be perfect" and then whoa, you're magically right when I keep updating this thread with every little mistake I make. Stop being a holier-than-thou armchair mechanic and making GBS threads up my thread. I update this for my enjoyment and for added content for AI, not so I can have 4 more father figures. Either help me diagnose the vibration or shut the gently caress up and goonsay somewhere else.
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Sep 5, 2013 20:56
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Adiabatic posted:Either help me diagnose the vibration or shut the gently caress up and goonsay somewhere else. Welcome to the SomethingAwful Forums .Have you checked your secondary shafts? The whirring is common to them, especially if you've hosed with the gearbox and drive shaft a number of times. I literally spent five minutes googling your symptoms. http://www.s2ki.com/s2000/topic/691420-secondary-shaft-bearing-replacement/ http://www.s2ki.com/s2000/topic/814474-tail-shaft-removal/ http://www.s2ki.com/s2000/topic/193376-tailshaft-bearing-noise/ You can diagnose this by removing the drive shaft and checking the output shaft from the transmission for play.
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Sep 5, 2013 21:07
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Jesus Christ how did I miss that. Gonna go check end play.
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Sep 5, 2013 21:11
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Adiabatic posted:Jesus Christ how did I miss that. Gonna go check end play. Good luck man, I really hope that's it. Apparently you can replace the bearings without having to drop the transmission so there's that!
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Sep 5, 2013 21:15
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Oh hey cool the electric unlock just broke. 
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Sep 5, 2013 22:37
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Adiabatic posted:Oh hey cool the electric unlock just broke. What did you do to break that
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Sep 5, 2013 22:49
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You know, Christine-who-hates-her-owner is not a real good story in the first place, but to make her an S2000?! C'mon now!
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Sep 5, 2013 22:55
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