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Baronjutter posted:I was having weird problems with my airbrush and had some paint that just wasn't flowing. I actually added a tiny bit of windex from my cleaning pot to the paint I was using and suddenly it was flowing like a dream. I don't know if this was a good idea but it worked for me. It is the recomended thinner for Games Workshop paints. As for Vallejo, I was thinning with water, but switched to their branded thinner and got much better results. But YMMV. edit: clarity
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Aug 22, 2013 04:27
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Vallejo paints definitely benefit from using their own branded thinners, and they don't mix amazingly well with other acrylics. I don't know the particulars behind their acrylic formulation, but it's definitely quite a bit different than most other manufacturers acrylics. Kind of like Tamiyas "acrylics", which may be water-based or lacquer-based depending on what part of the world you're in. Vallejo primer is odd as well, as it works very well as purely as a primer, but it does not sand well at all if any corrections are needed.
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Aug 22, 2013 04:58
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This thread needs more tanks.   The rear hatch also opens, but the internals are really crudely modeled (the gun breech is just a featureless block). 
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Aug 25, 2013 22:42
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Ensign Expendable posted:This thread needs more tanks. I've been meaning to ask you this question in particular, and this gives me the perfect opportunity! I'm intending on using the blue color French tanks have in World of Tanks with some of my less, uh, realistic models and I have had no luck finding what it is. Do you have any idea at all whether Wargaming were inspired by something historical, or just needed a color to differentiate factions? And what color would it be, in any case? I'm colorblind so I'm absolutely terrible at matching colors. Also I am reminded to work on my Merkava mkIII, I just wish I wasn't so scared of fusing the rubber treads.
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Aug 26, 2013 00:14
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The colour is historical. It's chosen from an array of colours used by the specific nation. For the first few, it was the colour used most frequently. For the Japanese, it's a less common colour, since there is enough green already. I don't know about the French, specifically, but the guide here seems to go a good job.
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Aug 26, 2013 00:55
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TBH I think it's just some random colour. Seems like a sea-green, but it really is rather blue.
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Aug 26, 2013 01:31
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The hobby shop next to where I live is regrettably swapping out all of its tank kits for horrible pre-built and pre-painted mass produced crap. However, they also have this pretty cool thing:  It's an itsy bitsy (probably 1:72, although I can't compare it with anything) T-34! Now, what kind of T-34 seems to be a toss-up, the turret roof clearly has model 1942 hatches and vent cover, but the overall shape of the turret is closer to a model 1941. The shape of the gun mantlet is ridiculous, and looks closer to a model 1940. The back of the box doesn't help identification, since it shows a T-34-85. Well, it's not even really a box, more of a envelope. The tank comes on two photo-etched sheets of metal. You can put it together without any glue, but I glued some suspicious looking parts on anyway. Some parts that should be round (turret sides, hull machine gun, exhaust pipes) aren't, and the antenna looks a little ridiculous, but otherwise, it's a nifty little kit. The store also had a Tiger (which I'll be coming back for), and their website shows a Chi-ha and a Sherman. Edit: ahahaha, they stole the markings from an Italeri kit. Italeri made the mistake on the tank's number (it should be Л2-ИС, not Л2-КС), and apparently they just copied it. In two extra places, just to be really sure. Ensign Expendable fucked around with this message at 20:55 on Aug 31, 2013 |
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Aug 31, 2013 20:47
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I apologize if this is a redundant question, but I skimmed the thread a bit first and didn't see this. Anyway, I was wondering if the acrylic paints used by artists and commonly sold in arts and craft stores are alright to use on model kits. I know they won't damage the plastic or anything, my concern is that they may not work as well (too dull, washed out appearance, doesn't adhere as well, etc) as acrylics specifically meant for models. If it matters I don't have an airbrush, I use traditional brushes. I'm just starting out so I figure it best to get as much good information as possible. I look around other places online and I found a mixture of responses that range from "No don't!" to "It's the same drat thing and usually way cheaper".
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Sep 2, 2013 09:52
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They should work just fine. Dullness shouldn't be an issue, as the pigments in artists acrylics are even more finely ground than in most modeling paints, and artists acrylics tend to have a natural satin/glossy finish. If you're brushing completely by hand, you can probably use something like Folk Art/Apple Barrel/Delta Ceramcoat craft paints, which are dirt loving cheap. If you have a Michaels near you, go when they have a good sale going and you can buy craft paints for 1/5 the price of dedicated model paints. If you want to step up from there, Liquitex and Golden are two very well regarded brands of acrylics that are easy to find, but you will see a sharp increase in price with them. I find the only people who will swear you shouldn't use anything but dedicated model paints are those that have bought into marketing hype and hearsay, and will argue endlessly that X brand is the only brand ever that can produce an accurate Battleship Grey or Dunkelgelb or whatever.
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Sep 2, 2013 10:08
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Bloody Hedgehog posted:Dunkelgelb. Oh god there is a word I never wanted to hear again.
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Sep 2, 2013 13:47
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Ugh, Michael's is massively overpriced.
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Sep 2, 2013 18:37
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Bloody Hedgehog posted:They should work just fine. Dullness shouldn't be an issue, as the pigments in artists acrylics are even more finely ground than in most modeling paints, and artists acrylics tend to have a natural satin/glossy finish. If you're brushing completely by hand, you can probably use something like Folk Art/Apple Barrel/Delta Ceramcoat craft paints, which are dirt loving cheap. If you have a Michaels near you, go when they have a good sale going and you can buy craft paints for 1/5 the price of dedicated model paints. If you want to step up from there, Liquitex and Golden are two very well regarded brands of acrylics that are easy to find, but you will see a sharp increase in price with them. Alright, thanks. I kind of figured that marketing played a part in this. I was considering these kind of paints because there's no good place to buy model paints around here (plus they're way cheaper). A comic book store in my area sells the Games Workshop stuff, but they don't have a huge range of colors and they're a bunch of different types like base coat, layer, etc. and honestly that's all a bit confusing to me. Also, if you don't mind me asking another question. I know the general idea with skill levels but what's the big difference between a level 2 and 3? Is it just that there's more parts and a more complex build? Long story short, I want to make one of these when I have a few more projects under my belt: http://www.amazon.com/Iron-Man-Mk-VI-Moebius/dp/B007BYE5R2 Is that something I should stay away from?
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Sep 2, 2013 21:36
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Yes, a higher skill level means there are more parts and they are fiddlier, but odds are you have to work on them less for a perfectly finished model. The company that makes the product should have definitions for their skill levels, but odds are it's something vague like "recommended for an advanced level".
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Sep 2, 2013 23:37
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Ensign Expendable posted:Ugh, Michael's is massively overpriced. How is it overpriced when I can buy a large bottle of paint for $1.00?
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Sep 3, 2013 00:19
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drat, really? Maybe I should go check it out.
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Sep 3, 2013 00:47
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CPL593H posted:Also, if you don't mind me asking another question. I know the general idea with skill levels but what's the big difference between a level 2 and 3? Is it just that there's more parts and a more complex build? Long story short, I want to make one of these when I have a few more projects under my belt: http://www.amazon.com/Iron-Man-Mk-VI-Moebius/dp/B007BYE5R2 http://www.scalemodeladdict.com/index.php?topic=5266.0 Appears to be molded in red only so be ready to paint. If you're reasonably detail oriented, have read the references in this thread, and older than 8 you can probably do this.
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Sep 3, 2013 00:49
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Ensign Expendable posted:drat, really? Maybe I should go check it out. Check your local paper for michael's ads on Sundays. They love throwing a 40 or 50% off one item coupon in there nearly every week. I use to use it for buying a box of like 30 motors back when I did modal rocketry.
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Sep 3, 2013 01:01
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 My first resin kit, an Evolution Soviet Soldier (anti-tank) 1941-1943. The binoculars aren't from the kit, they're there to hold the rifle together, since it snapped into pieces during shipping. This is more obvious when you look at the end with the muzzle brake. It's really quite detailed (shame my camera sucks). I really like the face, for some reason all of the resin kits I've seen have really expressive faces compared to plastic kits.
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Sep 3, 2013 01:28
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Midjack posted:http://www.scalemodeladdict.com/index.php?topic=5266.0 Oh I knew it had to be painted. I'm actually looking forward to that. I just want to wait until I have a few finished projects before I jump into that, just so I can have some decent painting skills. The assembly looks like fun too, and certainly appears to be nothing I can't handle. Anyway, thanks for the help guys. The project I'm working on right now is one of these (don't judge me):  I'll post an update when I finish it. It may not be too soon though because I've been having trouble with my hand.
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Sep 3, 2013 04:20
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Is.. is that the batwing from that the first movie? Very cool, I never knew a kit of that existed.
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Sep 3, 2013 08:08
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Morgenthau posted:Is.. is that the batwing from that the first movie? Very cool, I never knew a kit of that existed. They're pretty easy to find on ebay. A lot of people price gouge them but if you keep your eyes open you can easily get one for 10-20 bucks. Plus they reissued these in the mid-2000s ( along with the Keaton Batmobile), so there's plenty to be had.
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Sep 3, 2013 12:03
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Morgenthau posted:Is.. is that the batwing from that the first movie? Very cool, I never knew a kit of that existed. Yeah, it came out around 1990. I built the initial release. Not a bad kit, even given its time.
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Sep 3, 2013 12:05
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So who makes the best model kits for cars? Specifically newer cars, I don't care much for hot rods.
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Sep 6, 2013 01:04
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pageerror404 posted:So who makes the best model kits for cars? Specifically newer cars, I don't care much for hot rods. In my opinion it's Tamiya and Fujimi. Fujimi's newer kits are fantastic, and they have a great selection. Tamiya doesn't have nearly as many new releases, but when they do, it's usually a top notch kit. Their LaFerrari will probably be amazing. Hasegawa and Aoshima aren't bad either. Hasegawa in particular is the only manufacturer making models of the Lancia Stratos and the Lamborghini Miura, two cars I love. If you know exactly what car you want to build, I might be able to help you out more.
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Sep 6, 2013 05:58
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I made a train  It started out as this train  Was my first attempt at totally stripping and re-painting a choo choo. Was a lot of work and a huge pain but I learned quite a bit from my gently caress-ups and truth to be told, it turned out pretty ok.
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Sep 6, 2013 06:15
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So I put a whole bunch of time and effort into painting all the little buttons and things for the Batwing's cockpit only to discover that you can't actually see all that poo poo when you put Batman in there. Here's an attempted photo of that:  It's worth noting that there's stuff like that on both sides and I was having a problem photographing it because it's really tiny. CPL593H fucked around with this message at 07:53 on Sep 6, 2013 |
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Sep 6, 2013 07:45
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George Zimmer posted:In my opinion it's Tamiya and Fujimi. Fujimi's newer kits are fantastic, and they have a great selection. Tamiya doesn't have nearly as many new releases, but when they do, it's usually a top notch kit. Their LaFerrari will probably be amazing. Hasegawa and Aoshima aren't bad either. Hasegawa in particular is the only manufacturer making models of the Lancia Stratos and the Lamborghini Miura, two cars I love. If you know exactly what car you want to build, I might be able to help you out more. Seconding Tamiya here. I've only done one of their car kits (Mini), but I've done 5 or 6 of their bikes and the kits are a pleasure to build. I actually haven't built any Fujimi kits, but based on your reply, maybe I'll pick one up. I tend to build a lot of older American cars, so I usually stick to Revell and the like, but Tamiya is definitely something to look into for modern worldwide cars.
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Sep 6, 2013 14:18
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I picked up a Revell M3 Lee for twenty bucks. It's not the greatest kit, obviously, but that just means I can cover it in tank riders without concealing any nice details of the model. Also it's nice that it comes with British, American, and Soviet decals. The Sherman kit only came with American ones.
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Sep 6, 2013 14:44
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So how many of you tend to use all the paints listed in colour list of a kit? As I've got an AFV Club MGS Stryker kit I've been dying to build for a while now and finally gotten around to looking up what colours I need for it now that I get some cash to spend. But the thing is that the list is driving me kinda nuts as it lists 20 different colours but barely half of them ever seem mentioned in the blueprint itself so I'm kinda uncertain what to really do and if I should just ignore the list itself and go for the ones mentioned.
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Sep 8, 2013 18:22
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Cooked Auto posted:So how many of you tend to use all the paints listed in colour list of a kit? I have a tough time caring about the difference between 80% blue/10% black and 80% blue/9% black/1% grey. If the difference seems minute to you, ignore it; I use about half to 2/3 the colors and even then I usually use the closest color I already have on hand.
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Sep 8, 2013 18:29
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Midjack posted:I have a tough time caring about the difference between 80% blue/10% black and 80% blue/9% black/1% grey. If the difference seems minute to you, ignore it; I use about half to 2/3 the colors and even then I usually use the closest color I already have on hand. Yeah I tend to avoid the things that need to be mixed together because I'm really bad at that but the thing is there it lists a whole bunch of basic colours like white and blue and such but they never ever get mentioned in the instructions which is bugging me to hell and back. And the only colour mention at the end is simply the one for the body colour.
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Sep 8, 2013 18:55
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Cooked Auto posted:Yeah I tend to avoid the things that need to be mixed together because I'm really bad at that but the thing is there it lists a whole bunch of basic colours like white and blue and such but they never ever get mentioned in the instructions which is bugging me to hell and back. And the only colour mention at the end is simply the one for the body colour. Double check the outside of the box or any loose sheets of paper in the box, I've had a few kits include paint scheme details in those places. If not, that may just be their entire color palette, and if you had all those colors you could paint anything in their line, even though any given kit may only use a fraction of those colors. Up to you what you want to do; paint it whatever color you want. When you said MGS this is what I pictured instead of "Mobile Gun System": https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jLDd3ljw5ug
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Sep 8, 2013 19:39
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Midjack posted:Double check the outside of the box or any loose sheets of paper in the box, I've had a few kits include paint scheme details in those places. Yeah that's probably it in this case thinking about it as there wasn't anything but advertising on the inside of the box. Midjack posted:Up to you what you want to do; paint it whatever color you want. I might just as well go with the main body colour and pick the stuff specifically mentioned. I'm generally bad at coming my own colour schemes anyway. Thanks anyway.  Midjack posted:When you said MGS this is what I pictured instead of "Mobile Gun System": Haha. 
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Sep 8, 2013 19:53
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The guy at my local hobby shop said if you coat your clear parts in future polish and let them dry then you can glue them with regular super glue and they wont fog up. Can anyone verify this? He seemed pretty enthusiastically positive about it, but I want to be safe so I don't ruin my new kit.
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Sep 8, 2013 23:29
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Baronjutter posted:I made a train I learned that there's an Android app to run DCC trains on my phone, at our model railroad club. 
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Sep 9, 2013 00:00
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pageerror404 posted:The guy at my local hobby shop said if you coat your clear parts in future polish and let them dry then you can glue them with regular super glue and they wont fog up. Can anyone verify this? He seemed pretty enthusiastically positive about it, but I want to be safe so I don't ruin my new kit. I can confirm it; that is what I do.
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Sep 9, 2013 00:01
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pageerror404 posted:The guy at my local hobby shop said if you coat your clear parts in future polish and let them dry then you can glue them with regular super glue and they wont fog up. Can anyone verify this? He seemed pretty enthusiastically positive about it, but I want to be safe so I don't ruin my new kit. They make glues specifically for windows as well.
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Sep 9, 2013 06:21
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I feel the need to mention Elmer's again for gluing clear stuff. Spread Elmer's Glue-All around the edge of windshields and whatnot with a toothpick. It wipes off easily when it's still wet, dries clear, and won't fog your plastic. You need to be aware that it's not the strongest adhesive around, so make sure you get a good seal with it if you're going to be handling it a lot. I've had to redo a couple back windows...
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Sep 9, 2013 14:25
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I've been working on a 1/72 He 219 by Revell Germany lately. The kit is a little disappointing; it's a old kit from a defunct manufacturer, so it is not up to Revell Germany's really high standards. Anyway, I just finished painting the dots on the upper sides (by trial and error using my airbrush and an oil-based paint on top of a acrylic base) and have to admit the that the dots are just too big. So, I'm gonna wipe 'em off and start again. The upside is that I think I figured out a way to do them properly: by cutting circular holes in some masking film I have, and then standing it off from the fuselage a bit using sticky tac. I'm not sure it will work, but I'm hoping it'll give the holes the proper sort of soft, hazy edges I'm shooting for. Two other random things for the thread's consideration. 1) I love this box art.  And something in the same vein as that Forklift kit somebody posted earlier. Also available in a military version!
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Sep 9, 2013 20:10
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That's the most badass action shot of a supply truck I've ever seen.
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Sep 9, 2013 21:34
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