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AzureSkys posted:What's causing my 02 OB sedan H6 (190k on the odometer) to shake when accelerating, especially around 50-60 mph? I thought it was the tires and just bought brand new ones that were balanced before being mounted. It was less pronounced, but still there especially when accelerating like when going up a hill or something. Do you have aftermarket wheels? Do you have a hub-centric mounting thing for them?
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Sep 3, 2013 09:00
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VelociBacon posted:Do you have aftermarket wheels? Do you have a hub-centric mounting thing for them? The wheels are 17" from a 2006 OB, I think. The previous owner put them on.  It started shaking progressively worse for a few months now. The tires were pretty shot so I assumed that was the cause as I saved money for new ones. I'll check out the CVs and see how they look when home.
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Sep 3, 2013 10:28
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jamal posted:I would skip the sti cooler. I've deleted it on a number of cars in favor of a air-oil cooler (which are more efficient than the stock part and don't heat the coolant) and did exactly what you did with the extra port. On my legacy I deleted the cooler. The original motor blew and the cooler was probably full of garbage. They suck anyway. We made a blockoff exactly like you did.
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Sep 3, 2013 13:28
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They see me rollin...
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Sep 3, 2013 22:29
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Did that one window not catch a brick on the way by? It just ruins the aesthetic.
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Sep 3, 2013 22:45
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Aflicted posted:Did that one window not catch a brick on the way by? It just ruins the aesthetic. I think that's where he keeps his stickers.
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Sep 4, 2013 00:13
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VelociBacon posted:Just wanted to mention the stoptechs street performance pads held up just fine on the track. Very little fade and no packing. Make sure you check how much is left before your next track day. Mine held up fine the first day, but the second day they wore through the backing plates.
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Sep 4, 2013 00:26
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I think I like this, I need to figure out how to make it fit.
FogHelmut fucked around with this message at 01:48 on Sep 4, 2013 |
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Sep 4, 2013 01:45
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Just an update on the rally car, which is now at my shop!    For the seat mounting bolts - FIA rules simply specify a bolt at least 8mm in diameter. I have 7/16 grade 5 bolts. Is grade 5 good or should I use grade 8? I emailed a bunch of pictures to the cage inspector logbook guy and he said it all looks good. I also ripped out a bunch of wiring and door panel stuff, then removed the old transmission. Got the Ej205 mated to the 6mt ready to go in.
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Sep 4, 2013 01:51
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MrZig posted:Just an update on the rally car, which is now at my shop! Looks good! I think we're going to head down on saturday for the subaru NW meetup in WA, probably leaving early and coming back the same day (GF has to work the next morning). What are your plans? Anyone else in the thread going to the Bremerton, WA meet? e: blindjoe posted:Make sure you check how much is left before your next track day. Mine held up fine the first day, but the second day they wore through the backing plates. I did see your post about that - I went from brand new pads to mabye 60% after the track day. It was wet, which helped. Learned a lot of throttle control and threshold braking. VelociBacon fucked around with this message at 03:58 on Sep 4, 2013 |
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Sep 4, 2013 03:53
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THE BLACK NINJA, I sent you a PM. Thanks
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Sep 4, 2013 13:50
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MrZig posted:Just an update on the rally car, which is now at my shop! Use Grade 8 standard bolts for your seat mounting hardware. Your seat is definitely something you want to stay attached if you crash in a metal box full of heavy metal tubes. Cheap insurance on a life saving device.
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Sep 4, 2013 15:05
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VelociBacon posted:Looks good! I think we're going to head down on saturday for the subaru NW meetup in WA, probably leaving early and coming back the same day (GF has to work the next morning). What are your plans? I'll be heading down Friday, coming back Sunday!
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Sep 4, 2013 18:42
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MasterOfDemons posted:THE BLACK NINJA, I sent you a PM. Replied. Im probably going to buy a forester this weekend (finally). Looking at a 99 with 185k and a 2002 with 165k. Both seem to have had alot of recent ish work.
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Sep 4, 2013 19:31
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Sockington posted:Use Grade 8 standard bolts for your seat mounting hardware. Your seat is definitely something you want to stay attached if you crash in a metal box full of heavy metal tubes. I got grade 8 and 10.9 bolts, with locking washers for everything. Also test fitted my roof today, looks great! 
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Sep 5, 2013 05:41
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MrZig posted:For the seat mounting bolts - FIA rules simply specify a bolt at least 8mm in diameter. I have 7/16 grade 5 bolts. Is grade 5 good or should I use grade 8? Looking at the local rules which follow FIA, Grade 8 is absolute minimum. Basically in this case of seat mounts, go with the biggest number over 8 you can find.
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Sep 5, 2013 06:08
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Hey Cat Terrist, where can we get subaru parts in Aus? As far as I can tell subarugenuine parts is USA only. Bonus points if they sell parts for 98 Imprezas. Also CT, my friends just made me aware of this, but my car has 3 lights on the back. It's not that 1 has a blown globe or something, its just not there. There's no hole for it or anything on that side of the car.  Do I need to be worried about it + the cops? The brake lights work and are in the middle, I can always just take the globe out of that extra light if it might be a problem.
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Sep 5, 2013 10:50
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Is that a rear fog light? They come on with the front fog lights, and are about as bright as brake lights. You're really not supposed to drive with your fog lights on unless there is fog, but some people like to go "ooh look at all of my lights."
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Sep 5, 2013 12:19
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FogHelmut posted:Is that a rear fog light? They come on with the front fog lights, and are about as bright as brake lights. You're really not supposed to drive with your fog lights on unless there is fog, but some people like to go "ooh look at all of my lights." Actually theres a switch next to my front fog lights switch that might be it, it was on when I bought the car and I couldn't figure out what it did so I left it on, I'm going to go check if its it. E: Thats it.
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Sep 5, 2013 12:36
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jamal and others; Was wondering if you guys had personal recommendations on a shop in the Chicago area to do some tuning? I've heard of 6Star in Schaumburg or P&L Motorsports in Franklin Park, but I figured you guys would have the final word on where to go. Looking to replace downpipe and do an ECU tune in the near future on an 09 WRX.
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Sep 5, 2013 21:12
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adnam posted:jamal and others; Well, I'm not exactly a go-to resource here, but having been putzing with Subarus in the area for long enough, I'll give you my opinions on this anyhow: P&L used to be a great shop, back when Jorge was a manager there and they worked a lot with Ron @ Axis/RAW (before that whole fiasco). They've gone very downhill since then, and have a history of being sloppy with their work. It's a shame, because they probably still have some of the best mechanics in the area, and Junior is probably still the best tuner in the area. However, you may get a well tuned mechanically sound vehicle with a bunch of major dents, paint scratches, etc - because they just don't really care. They famously/recently managed to rear-end a truck while doing final road adjustments on a tune in a customer's car, and then left the customer hanging for months until he finally had to have it repaired on his own $. 6Star is the 'enthusiast' shop these days. It's been rebuilt since Dylan f-ed everyone over and ran away with a bunch of money as DS1. It was mostly rebuilt by a guy who is apparently a pretty good businessman/pleasant to deal with - and a bunch of 'junior' mechanic types. They do things at a reasonable price and do a lot - and a lot more custom work. They also do things a bit sketchy that some customers end up uncomfortable/unhappy with - but that's the price/quality argument. They do not have a dyno, so you'll be handing it to someone to do a road tune. They're a good option if you're on a budget and are OK with the associated factors. They're also pretty nice guys, and Dewey is well known in the Subaru-land here, and is their front-office guy. I've done quite a bit of business in the past with P&L and stopped. I tried to do business with 6Star a couple of times, but never got a good enough feeling from them to go through with it. I instead had APM do the same work I talked to 6Star about. Mark is the front-desk manager there these days, he is the old manager of P&L back when Jorge was around. He's a super nice guy to work with, and their prices are excellent. The downsides are they only have a couple of mechanics, and a very small/cramped shop. I've been very pleased with the quality of their work, they have a great name in the Evo community, less well known in the Subaru community. They do not have a dyno, so again for tuning you'd be looking at a road tune. You might want to consider having the mechanical work done by 6* or APM, and then having the dyno tune done by Junior @ P&L - without road tuning adjustments and not letting the car out of your sight. He really is a very good tuner.
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Sep 5, 2013 21:33
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AMS is out there too. They do good work but I'd expect prices to be a bit higher.
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Sep 5, 2013 21:51
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jamal posted:AMS is out there too. They do good work but I'd expect prices to be a bit higher. Yeah, if you are on the no-budget model, AMS is about an hour further west, but well known for quality/high end work. I've never made it out there just because P&L/6*/APM are already about 1.5 hours west of me, and AMS is another hour west of there.
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Sep 5, 2013 21:59
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Let me tell you guys the story of how I decided to put a built motor in my STi. I've got a pretty heavily modded 05 STi, running methanol injection and an FP green on the stock block and heads. I decided that it would be fun to spend a whole bunch of money on getting a Cosworth block, doing kelford cams and a bunch of other stuff. On July 2nd, I dropped the car off to get the engine pulled and everything ready to receive the new motor. Cosworth estimated that the motor would be there in 2 weeks and my mechanic said the whole thing would take about another week after the receipt of the motor. Cosworth lied about shipping the motor, provided false tracking information, and ultimately never sent my motor or the other guy's motor who was also waiting on one with me. 8 weeks and some change of being blown off by Cosworth (and now still needing to get the money back), I am having a motor custom built by a machine shop/engine builder and god willing it will be in the car before I need to put my loving snow tires back on. If you're even thinking about going near Cosworth, don't. You'd be better off with literally any competitor product, because it will arrive, and you will have an engine, instead of having nothing. If you can even reach them they are so full of poo poo that it is unbelievable. gently caress Cosworth.
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Sep 6, 2013 16:24
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Let me tell you about the 3 weeks P&L had my car, and then made me wait the day they said it would be done, for eight hours, and then watched them eat a pizza and then had to badger them to get all my parts back for over a month.
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Sep 6, 2013 16:40
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I just relinquished my Outback Sport to the salvage company.  I got a fair payout but man I will really miss that car.
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Sep 6, 2013 16:58
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burtonos posted:Let me tell you about the 3 weeks P&L had my car, and then made me wait the day they said it would be done, for eight hours, and then watched them eat a pizza and then had to badger them to get all my parts back for over a month. Man, don't get me started on that. I got called by a different shop here in NY to pick up the car at 1PM. When I arrived I was made to wait until 8PM while all the other cars got tuned ahead of mine, because, "Yours will take the most time to tune". They broke my boost gauge during this episode. The car ended up with a seriously whacked out tune that was stuttering all over the place. I haven't gone back there.
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Sep 6, 2013 18:44
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I have not heard good things about cosworth lately, and basically all the people I knew there are working somewhere else. My distributor does have a shortblock in stock. jamal fucked around with this message at 18:56 on Sep 6, 2013 |
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Sep 6, 2013 18:51
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jamal posted:I have not heard good things about cosworth lately, and basically all the people I knew there are working somewhere else. Oh you tease 
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Sep 6, 2013 18:57
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All of the Cosworth stories I've heard have been similar, and it sounds like a replay of Prodrive's non-graceful exit from the US market a few years back.
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Sep 6, 2013 19:04
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My understanding is that they are concentrating on electronics and aerospace stuff. I think they have like 1 or 2 guys building engines and practically everyone who was there works at cobb now.
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Sep 6, 2013 19:24
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Please don't scare me about tunes I'm getting mine done in a couple weeks when my Power FC comes in and I'm scared about my engine exploding 
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Sep 6, 2013 20:50
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VelociBacon posted:Please don't scare me about tunes I'm getting mine done in a couple weeks when my Power FC comes in and I'm scared about my engine exploding If you want to not be scared, go read the extensive online resources about Subaru tuning. It's really impressive how well people have documented. If you do that, you can be sure of your tune by the numbers, rather than by reputation. When you actually look at your log data, see proper AFRs, pressure, proper fueling, timing, knock correction, etc it is a reassuring thing.
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Sep 6, 2013 21:19
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si posted:If you want to not be scared, go read the extensive online resources about Subaru tuning. It's really impressive how well people have documented. If you do that, you can be sure of your tune by the numbers, rather than by reputation. When you actually look at your log data, see proper AFRs, pressure, proper fueling, timing, knock correction, etc it is a reassuring thing. I just don't trust the majority of people's 'great tunes' online, and don't have a laptop to datalog with (probably will end up using the GF's just to make sure). I'm also tuning for 91 octane on a JDM EJ20K so I'm thinking my best bet is to let my car idle until it runs dry at a gas station then fill it up with the 91 to make sure it doesn't get tuned for 91.2 or something (I know this is probably overkill). Do you lose some degree of the computer being able to correct for different conditions when you go to a standalone like a power FC or does it still have the ability to adjust timing? Asking because I'm hoping to fill up with US 92 octane (I live on the border) even though I'll be tuning for 91 to be safe. Edit: Anyone use DCCD Pro? I'll need a standalone since the ECU won't be there to control it anymore. I know zigs is running it in the rally car. I'd be curious to hear people's experiences with it on the street, specifically with long corners where you're at WOT in the dry and whether it causes much understeer. Edit2: I can't believe how good the customer service is from DCCD pro. The guy (Jeff) is returning my emails almost immediately with lots of helpful information and it's 1:30AM where he lives. VelociBacon fucked around with this message at 04:29 on Sep 7, 2013 |
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Sep 6, 2013 23:09
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Co-worker has a 2009 Forester non-turbo automatic. Coming up on 105k service and wants to know exactly what to replace on the timing belt change. Water pump, tensioners, and ? Also, what is the AT fluid service on those things? (Also, anyone know about suby specialties in Monrovia? They have a good internet reputation, but that only goes to far.)
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Sep 7, 2013 05:41
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While replacing my PCV valve today I accidentally cracked two ancillary hoses that connect (not directly to, just mounted across) to the Intercooler. The two on the left hand side facing the engine bay. Does anyone know where I can find these parts? I can't seem to find them on Autozone's website. Is there a more specific name than "those two ancillary lines that are on the left"? Related, removing the TMIC for the first time is a loving pain in the rear end. Edit: 02 wrx. Edit2: is it normal for the oil level reading via dipstick to change based on whether the engine is running or not? It's almost like the oil gets pumped into the engine then drained out when it's off. If that makes any sense.
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Sep 7, 2013 06:49
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The PCV lines that connect to the hard pipes bolted to the IC? You'll have to get those at the dealer. They connect to the turbo inlet and if they are cracked you will draw in unmetered air, run lean, and bad things can happen. Replace them immediately and don't drive the car hard. And yeah, oil level will be different depending on oil temp, the level of the ground, the phase of the moon, etc. While running, there is more oil in the passages in the engine. The best way to check it is with the car warm, on a level surface, after it has been off for about 5 minutes.
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Sep 7, 2013 06:55
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I noticed today that the rear wheels on my 04 WRX wagon seems to have a noticeable negative camber. The tires seems to have normal proper wear pattern, and were installed, including an alignment in Feb of 2013. I just rotated the tires for the second time since installing them. The car is stock (except Cobb stage 1) and the suspension components are the originals from when the car was new. Any ideas or suggestions?
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Sep 7, 2013 18:28
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If you had an alignment done, did it state what the current angles are with regards to suspension settings?
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Sep 7, 2013 22:02
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Sockington posted:If you had an alignment done, did it state what the current angles are with regards to suspension settings? The current LR camber was -1.4. The current RR camber was -1.3. I don't know if it helps at all, but the LF was 0.0 and the RF was -0.4. By current I mean upon install which I now see was on 14 Dec of last year.
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Sep 8, 2013 01:35
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