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One of the things that I've read about those inexpensive 27" Korean PLS displays like the QNIX is that because they don't have scaler hardware, you must run them at their native resolution for them to work properly. On a PC, does this mean I wouldn't be able to see anything before Windows has started (POST messages, BIOS setup, etc.) or would the graphics card detect this and scale things on its end? I'm using a GTX 550 Ti, which is apparently described as a supported card, but to what degree it's supported, I have no idea.
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Sep 8, 2013 03:03
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Depends on the graphics card. Most modern cards will work fine, though.
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Sep 8, 2013 04:07
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Zorilla posted:One of the things that I've read about those inexpensive 27" Korean PLS displays like the QNIX is that because they don't have scaler hardware, you must run them at their native resolution for them to work properly. On a PC, does this mean I wouldn't be able to see anything before Windows has started (POST messages, BIOS setup, etc.) or would the graphics card detect this and scale things on its end? Oh nah, it will still display all of these things without a hitch and as it would on any other monitor (I was originally running it on a Maxcore 55 before bumping up to a Sapphire Vapor-X 7970 GE). It just means that in some situations (twice in my case) it will display things with black borders ala letterbox. I've had my Irun (snagged for $240) for 9 months now and it hasn't given me any problems. Gorgeous picture as well! Hit the "?" under my name for more info on it.
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Sep 8, 2013 10:17
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I've ordered a Qnix. I'm looking at video cards to use with it that won't break the bank too badly. How would a GTX 760 do for gaming at this resolution?
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Sep 8, 2013 19:02
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Gnomedolf posted:I've ordered a Qnix. I'm looking at video cards to use with it that won't break the bank too badly. How would a GTX 760 do for gaming at this resolution?
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Sep 8, 2013 19:41
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Gnomedolf posted:I've ordered a Qnix. I'm looking at video cards to use with it that won't break the bank too badly. How would a GTX 760 do for gaming at this resolution? You'd likely find the GPU Megathread helpful for further discussion.
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Sep 8, 2013 19:49
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DrDork posted:Depends entirely on how many shinies you feel like enabling. For example, maxed out Crysis 3 on a 760 barely breaks 35FPS. BF3 on Ultra and you're looking at ~45FPS, but you can keep it over 60 by turning some stuff down. If that's alright with you, then you'll be fine. If not--or if you're getting the Qnix because you want to run at 120Hz--you're going to need something more powerful; likely a SLI solution. I'm not a hardcore gamer. I'll play an MMO every now and then, but not much else. I don't care about super high fps. If it's 30fps or higher then I'm happy.
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Sep 8, 2013 19:52
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Should I snag this Ultrasharp U2412? I'm primarily interested in gaming, but I'm not into competive first person shooters so I don't need a super high refresh rate. I also spend a lot of my free time painting in photoshop. Edit: Graphics card is a GeForce GTX 680. Elderbean fucked around with this message at 21:03 on Sep 8, 2013 |
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Sep 8, 2013 20:26
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Yes, great monitor.
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Sep 8, 2013 20:38
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Gnomedolf posted:I've ordered a Qnix. I'm looking at video cards to use with it that won't break the bank too badly. How would a GTX 760 do for gaming at this resolution? I'm running dual 460s which is a little slower than the 760. And it does ok, but I think the 760 would handle it better with the extra ram.
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Sep 9, 2013 00:16
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Elderbean posted:Should I snag this Ultrasharp U2412? You're going to be way better-equipped than me on that front (I don't play games very often so my U2412 is hooked up to an old Atom/Ion setup), but an easy trick for WUXGA monitors like that is to create a custom resolution of 960x600 (or just deal with sidebars at 800x600). If you aren't playing a game for the eye-candy, it's a cheap way to increase framerates. Ends up pixel-perfect due to being exactly half the native width and half the native height, just looks softened due to stretching the image. It's a great monitor. I got mine for just a few bucks more, no complaints. Make sure it's compatible with your inputs and check for bad pixels before the return window ends.
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Sep 9, 2013 04:50
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I just picked up Dell's U2312HM, and it's a very nice monitor. Unfortunately though, it's causing me some pretty bad eye strain after a few minutes of looking at it (which I've never experienced before, despite being a I messed around with the settings and the ambient lighting in the room, but nothing has really helped significantly (turning down the brightness helped somewhat, but it's still not useable). Does anyone have any ideas for what might be the cause here? Full disclosure: my laptop has a glossy screen and my work monitors are matte and neither causes this problem at all. I don't know if that matters.
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Sep 9, 2013 12:16
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How far are you from your screen? (For 20/20 vision and native resolution somewhere between a yard and a meter is pretty good.) And have you tried stuff like f.lux to level out the white balance? Also you may not have lowered your brightness enough. I'm pretty happy around 35. AND: When was the last time you had your eyes checked out? dont be mean to me fucked around with this message at 12:23 on Sep 9, 2013 |
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Sep 9, 2013 12:19
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z0glin Warchief posted:I just picked up Dell's U2312HM, and it's a very nice monitor. Unfortunately though, it's causing me some pretty bad eye strain after a few minutes of looking at it (which I've never experienced before, despite being a Max out the brightness and up the ambient light, for a bit. If it helps, you may be sensitive to the flickering led backlight, as dimming the leds is actually produced by rapid switching modulated by pwm. Nothing you can do other than buy one with a ccfl if that turns out to be the case.
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Sep 9, 2013 12:48
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edit; ^^^^^ I didn't think of that, will give it a shot! edit2; 100 brightness was actually a slight improvement, at least over the 40-75 range. Welp. Guess I'm returning it then. Does anyone have suggestions for a new one that is ccfl around the same size/price range as the u2312hm? Sir Unimaginative posted:Constructive questions. I've been playing around with the distances too, from closeish to about 1.5 meters. Further away was better, but not good enough to actually use the monitor for anything long term. I have flux, but it didn't make a noticeable difference. I actually had the brightness lowered to 25  (It started at 75, and I tried 60, 50, 40, 30, 20, 0, settled around 25)Also, I coincidentally had my eyes checked just a few weeks ago, and everything was normal. z0glin Warchief fucked around with this message at 13:12 on Sep 9, 2013 |
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Sep 9, 2013 12:50
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If you are indeed sensitive to PWM (which sucks balls and is why I had to return a U2412m), there's not much to do other than run a monitor with it at 100% brightness (unfeasible) or go extensively searching for the unfortunately rare models that don't use it. It's not always readily obvious if they do or not, you'll have to do some digging.
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Sep 9, 2013 17:45
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The reason I mentioned CCFL backlighting is simply because even when dimmed with PWM, it's not as noticeable as LED with PWM simply because the afterglow of the phosphor between each cycle keeps the glow basically constant. You're probably not sensitive enough to be affected by CCFL backlights with PWM dimming, since I imagine most older screens were exactly that. LEDs however can change output instantly, which then causes inexplicable eyestrain until you know the cause. It is, as mentioned, of course possible to find monitors that don't use PWM for dimming at all, but I'm not even sure where you can start researching monitors in that way. vv Ah, very helpful HalloKitty fucked around with this message at 21:56 on Sep 9, 2013 |
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Sep 9, 2013 21:01
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TFTCentral mention it in every review they do.
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Sep 9, 2013 21:44
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Only within the last half year, previous to that they didn't mention it (the U2312 review, for instance).
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Sep 9, 2013 21:58
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Prade.de also considers PWM in their reviews. I don't know when they began, so they could be in the same boat as TFTCentral. I know BenQ and Eizo advertise some of their monitors as Flicker-Free. That trend is probably catching on with other manufacturers, too. The 27" version of the same model, the U2713HM, does not use PWM. Though, that particular unit may be outside your price range.
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Sep 9, 2013 22:10
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Thanks for all the help! I'll be doing some researching and window shopping today, so we'll see how it goes.
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Sep 10, 2013 00:45
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That's actually why I chose the U2713hm over a Korean model, it was proven to NOT use PWM whereas whatever you get shipped from overseas is an unverifiable mystery lottery. The Viewsonic VP-2770 was also a contender but it was always at least $250 more than Dell's equivalent.
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Sep 10, 2013 02:07
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Second qnix arrived today, picture just as perfect as the first one. Desk mount still hasn't arrived, but the regular stands actually aren't that bad.  
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Sep 10, 2013 05:50
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GrizzlyCow posted:I know BenQ and Eizo advertise some of their monitors as Flicker-Free. These are probably better manufacturers, so I doubt it will apply, but "Flicker-Free" could mean either they've done it properly, or they're doing something disgusting like changing the white point in the image, crushing contrast and basically ruining the image, as if you were turning down brightness in software (which is what it is)
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Sep 10, 2013 10:07
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If I opted for a larger monitor like the Dell U2713HM would my GeForce GTX 680 be able to run games at 2560 x 1440 smoothly?
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Sep 10, 2013 11:16
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Elderbean posted:If I opted for a larger monitor like the Dell U2713HM would my GeForce GTX 680 be able to run games at 2560 x 1440 smoothly? I would consider a gtx680 only just adequate for 1440p - depending on how you define 'smooth' you may need to turn stuff - like AA for example - down slightly in some of the most demanding games like crysis 3 and bioshock infinite. If you were buying new cards, I'd tell you to get a pair of 4gig gtx760s for optimum performance, but I'd hardly expect someone to pay that much for new cards when your current card is only a generation old unless you have money to burn. Don't let that stop you from getting a 1440p screen though - use your 680 for another year and maybe consider replacing it when the 800 series comes out.
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Sep 10, 2013 11:40
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BrettRobb posted:Second qnix arrived today, picture just as perfect as the first one. Desk mount still hasn't arrived, but the regular stands actually aren't that bad. Is your office in a high school bathroom? 
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Sep 10, 2013 13:52
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I just bought a Dell U2312HM based on the recommendations in this thread. For the most part I find it to be quite nice, and certainly an improvement over the ancient screen it replaced. However, it's got a few quirks that I'm wondering about : 1) There's a slight vertical gradient in terms of, well, I guess "color temperature." Basically colors near the bottom of the screen are slightly yellow, grading smoothly into more neutral reproduction in the middle and top. The top looks slightly bluish by comparison, but it's subtle enough that I'm not sure if it's "real" or just the contrast with the yellower tint fooling my eyes. Fiddling with screen height & tilt helped a little but it's still detectable. This is something I noticed with my much older Optiquest Q22wb, actually, and which I'd hoped would be fixed by upgrading. (Without a side-by-side comparison I think it's improved, at least.) Is this just common to all flat panels thanks to the physics of viewing angles, or...? 2) In the middle of the screen there are two vertical oblong areas that almost look like smudges - they appear slightly darker than the rest of the screen. These seem to line up almost exactly with the sides of the stand mounting bracket on the back of the screen, which makes me wonder if something could have happened during manufacturing or shipping to damage the panel itself. 3) I get a small amount of shimmery backlight leakage out of the lower-left corner on very dark images. It's barely noticeable as long as I'm viewing dead-on and from about 3 feet away, but if I lean in closer or to the side it gets more pronounced. Here's a low-budget simulation of what a flat 50% gray screen might look like for me:  Note that I exaggerated everything, and there's also some banding in that image which is just a result of it being hastily made, not representative of anything wrong with my screen. So I'm wondering, did I get a defective unit or is this just par for the course? Should I return it or can I do anything to fix it? Would getting a replacement be likely to help? Most of my computer time is spent coding, web surfing, gaming, etc., and for those purposes none of these issues matter that much. But occasionally I do some web design work, and for that at least the warm-to-cool vertical gradient is less than ideal. Plus I just don't like the idea of paying money for a substandard product!
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Sep 10, 2013 19:16
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Your monitor has a 3-year warranty with Advanced Exchange, and if I were in your shoes, I would definitely take advantage of it. They will ship you a new one, and once it arrives, you get to return the old one in the same box with a prepaid shipping label. Not sure what the first problem could be caused by on an LED-backlit monitor, but the second problem looks like it could be pressure spots on the panel itself. I wonder if it was leaning against something at one point or put face down on an uneven surface. Does it "move around" when you change your viewing position? Artifacts caused by defects behind the panel will move in parallax relative to the screen surface (e.g dust trapped between the panel and backlight box). The third problem sounds like classic backlight leakage. On IPS panels like these, you can expect a tiny amount of glow around the edges while staring at a 100% black screen, but if you notice it during dark scenes in games or movies, I would get it exchanged on that basis alone. No reason to put up with that on a brand new monitor with a cushy warranty. Zorilla fucked around with this message at 03:56 on Sep 11, 2013 |
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Sep 11, 2013 03:45
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Sorry, I've been posting in here a lot. Just had a few more questions. For the price of one 27 inch Ultrasharp, I could get two of the smaller ones. Is there a huge difference in image quality between a 27 at 1440p and a 24 at 1920x1200? I draw and paint alot, so two monitors would actually be ideal since I could throw my refernces on one and paint on the other. I also play games though.
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Sep 11, 2013 17:13
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Elderbean posted:Sorry, I've been posting in here a lot. Just had a few more questions. I would go with the two, but that's only if they don't feel cramped to you, vertically. Your overall area would be higher on two screens, and having a divider can help organization of your palettes/references/etc. You can also try things like working with both/one screen in portrait mode, or getting a larger screen for the middle, too. My vote is on two smaller screens.
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Sep 11, 2013 18:30
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Supraluminal posted:I just bought a Dell U2312HM based on the recommendations in this thread. For the most part I find it to be quite nice, and certainly an improvement over the ancient screen it replaced. However, it's got a few quirks that I'm wondering about : I also just got a U2312HM recently (thanks thread!), and mine also has the slightest yellow-to-blue transition, but on the horizontal axis. It's pretty much unnoticeable apart from on pure white backgrounds, and I think it may have dissipated a little in the week or so I've had it. It might be worth checking what revision you have of the model on the back of the panel - mine is an A00 of June 2013, and I've heard different revisions have more problems with yellowing.
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Sep 11, 2013 18:55
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I just got a nice and shiny LG IPS234V. Everything is fine with it apart from one issue; when I turn it off, it makes a quiet whining noise that only stops when I cut the power completely. No whining at all when the monitor is switched on. Does anyone know what the cause might be, and if I need to be concerned about this? I'm currently using a VGA (or D-SUB or whatever they call it) cable with a DVI adapter (GPU end) while I'm waiting for an HDMI cable to arrive, could that have anything to do with it?
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Sep 11, 2013 21:06
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Deketh posted:I just got a nice and shiny LG IPS234V. Everything is fine with it apart from one issue; when I turn it off, it makes a quiet whining noise that only stops when I cut the power completely. No whining at all when the monitor is switched on. Does anyone know what the cause might be, and if I need to be concerned about this? I'm currently using a VGA (or D-SUB or whatever they call it) cable with a DVI adapter (GPU end) while I'm waiting for an HDMI cable to arrive, could that have anything to do with it? Power supplies usually use a separate circuit for standby power. Its only purpose in life is to watch when the power button is pressed, and turn on the rest of the device when that happens. It sounds like an inductor coil or similar component in that circuit is probably loose, which can cause an audible vibration when AC power is applied to it. It's the same phenomenon that can cause buzzing in backlight inverters, or even large power transformers. The fix would be to swap out the power supply board with another that hopefully doesn't do this. But you just got this, so maybe you can return it or seek warranty service. Zorilla fucked around with this message at 21:34 on Sep 11, 2013 |
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Sep 11, 2013 21:28
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Zorilla posted:Not sure what the first problem could be caused by on an LED-backlit monitor, but the second problem looks like it could be pressure spots on the panel itself. I wonder if it was leaning against something at one point or put face down on an uneven surface. Does it "move around" when you change your viewing position? Artifacts caused by defects behind the panel will move in parallax relative to the screen surface (e.g dust trapped between the panel and backlight box). The "smudge" areas don't appear to move around as I change my position, but they are harder to detect from an angle. I guess that means it's probably something to do with the panel then. Profanity posted:I also just got a U2312HM recently (thanks thread!), and mine also has the slightest yellow-to-blue transition, but on the horizontal axis. It's pretty much unnoticeable apart from on pure white backgrounds, and I think it may have dissipated a little in the week or so I've had it. It might be worth checking what revision you have of the model on the back of the panel - mine is an A00 of June 2013, and I've heard different revisions have more problems with yellowing. Ah, so it's not just me! Mine is also an A00 from June, for whatever that's worth. I think the gradient on mine might be gradually improving as well, but I'm not sure I want to take a chance on it, at least not with the other issues mine has on top that. I would probably live with any one of these problems, but the combination of all three is a bit much. Thanks for the info, guys. Hopefully I'll have better luck with a replacement....
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Sep 11, 2013 21:40
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Zorilla posted:Power supplies usually use a separate circuit for standby power. Its only purpose in life is to watch when the power button is pressed, and turn on the rest of the device when that happens. It sounds like an inductor coil or similar component in that circuit is probably loose, which can cause an audible vibration when AC power is applied to it. It's the same phenomenon that can cause buzzing in backlight inverters, or even large power transformers. Thanks. Mostly I'm concerned about whether it might be something that will shorten the lifespan of the monitor - I kill all power when my PC is not in use anyway so it's not a big issue as long as it's not a sign of damage that will be getting worse.
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Sep 11, 2013 21:49
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I'm trying to pick out a monitor as an incentive to start saving so I can afford it if a sale pops up/black Friday happens. I do artsy poo poo so color accuracy is important(I use a TV as my desktop monitor so this means I have to do all art stuff on my tiny much less powerful macbook), and I have fairly lovely eyesight/play a lot of videogames so I want big. There seems to be a huge jump in price going anywhere above 27" so I thought either an IPS or TN at that size could work if I got a good deal. Is the image/color quality enough better on an IPS to justify the higher price, or would a TN be alright? EDIT: I'm loving dumb and totally mixed up TN and MVA/PVA, which I guess is the one I'd actually want for art poo poo at a lower cost. Wowporn fucked around with this message at 23:11 on Sep 11, 2013 |
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Sep 11, 2013 23:08
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Note that if you care about color accuracy you NEED a hardware color calibration device. Even the most accurate monitors out of the box are only roughly equal to the least accurate monitors post-calibration. I'm not saying that you shouldn't buy a good monitor and should calibrate a crappy one, just that you're not actually getting the performance you should expect if you haven't calibrated the monitor.
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Sep 12, 2013 00:24
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Thanks for the reminder, I'm planning on just getting the monitor and doing the free/lovely calibration at first then getting a Huey pro once my bank account bounces back.
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Sep 12, 2013 01:14
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So I just did a monitor replacement today, and I am blown away by the picture difference. My old display was an eight year old Dell 2405fpw. The main reason why I replaced it was that something or other had gotten loose with the DVI connector on the monitor side. If the monitor was jiggled, the picture would go out until I could jiggle the cable back just right. No fun. Saw the Anandtech review of the U2713HM, and just went with that. I game, but I am not really a hardcore fps gamer, so this sounded fine. I also watch a shitload of netflix on my computer, as it is my main entertainment device. I have to say, the picture on this is so much nicer than the 2405fpw. The color in particular blows the old monitor away. It is a rev A00, made in June 2013. Flashed white, black, red, green, and blue screens, and all of the pixels look to be in working order. The lightning uniformity on a solid black background is also really good looking. Granted, I am not sure I know what backlight bleed problems look like, but I am pretty sure I am fine. Here is a quick photo, with a fullscreen black image, taken in total darkness. The white light is the LCD power button. The blue light is my speaker volume knob.  You can see a slight difference in the lower left and upper right, but overall I am pretty sure this is a good overall result for an IPS panel. Set windows text/icon size at 125%, to make things a more readable with the high resolution. Also dabbled in setting the refresh above 60 Hz. Running it at 85 Hz right now. Well, the monitor's hardware menu says it is 2560x1440@85Hz, though truth be told I have no way of confirming that. Haven't tried setting it higher, and I am not even sure I am going to keep it where it is. It isn't like my current video card is going to be able to drive high refresh rates in games at this resolution anyway. All in all, I am really impressed. Makes me feel silly for not buying something like this sooner. Filthy Monkey fucked around with this message at 03:31 on Sep 12, 2013 |
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Sep 12, 2013 02:29
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