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After I pulled the engine it looks like I got a slight leak on the return oil line for the turbo. Anyone know the part number off hand for a new one?
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Sep 8, 2013 10:40
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My wife and I are talking about getting a WRX soon. We're looking at the new ones but also considering a used one (08 or newer probably) but I don't know what to look for as signs of abuse on these things since almost all of them are modded in some way. Reliability is pretty a important factor in the decision to buy another car so I want to be smart about this without losing out on the fun. Any advice?
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Sep 8, 2013 13:16
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Well there's something that I didn't consider - this air dam thing behind the grille that diverts air to the intake. You can see it on the left here:  The other side fits fine. But I can't put the Hella 500ff on the side with the intake. How damaging to my engine would cutting this be? How much of my warranty would be voided?  I may just have to get smaller lights.
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Sep 8, 2013 14:47
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FogHelmut posted:Well there's something that I didn't consider - this air dam thing behind the grille that diverts air to the intake. Probably not as damaging as having your plastic 'grille' melt which will likely happen with hella 500ff's right behind it.
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Sep 8, 2013 20:02
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FogHelmut posted:Well there's something that I didn't consider - this air dam thing behind the grille that diverts air to the intake. Why not just get a projector based fog light (such as: http://www.jegs.com/i/Hella/288/H71...CFcdxQgodMD0AnA ) instead of those hugely unnecessary 500ff's? Did your WRX not come with fog lights? Or are you just wanting the LOL rally car look?
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Sep 8, 2013 21:20
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Amandyke posted:Why not just get a projector based fog light (such as: http://www.jegs.com/i/Hella/288/H71...CFcdxQgodMD0AnA ) instead of those hugely unnecessary 500ff's? Did your WRX not come with fog lights? Or are you just wanting the LOL rally car look? It's regular Impreza. I have fog lights. I need additional driving lights for when I drive down my mom's gravel driveway.
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Sep 8, 2013 22:57
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FogHelmut posted:It's regular Impreza. I have fog lights. I need additional driving lights for when I drive down my mom's gravel driveway.  No modifications required!
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Sep 8, 2013 23:07
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Since I'm a fan of overkill when it comes to lighting, I'll try to help. It's too new to track down parts in a junkyard so if you'd want to reverse this mod anytime soon I think you're stuck with buying a new grill from Subaru. The intake temps might rise a little but it shouldn't change anything too much, you're just cutting the little air dam that helps push cold outside air into the intake from my understanding. Reduced flow over the radiator shouldn't be too bad either, the lower grill draws in air for the radiator as well. For the grill melting, I'd probably stick to only running then while in motion. They're big lights so the heat should be a little more spread out and it might be ok to run then while stationary but no guarantees. Once you have them installed maybe take a thermal probe and see just how hot the grill gets. Good luck, and worst case you'd just need to get a new grill.
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Sep 9, 2013 00:09
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VelociBacon posted:
I was leaning more towards this  Bajaha posted:Since I'm a fan of overkill when it comes to lighting, I'll try to help. It's too new to track down parts in a junkyard so if you'd want to reverse this mod anytime soon I think you're stuck with buying a new grill from Subaru. Realistically, the grille costs more than the lights, so I'm probably not going to risk it. I'm thinking of going with Hella Micro FF, or some Chinese knockoff LED light bars.
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Sep 9, 2013 00:54
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Aux lights own gently caress the haters. Forester guys run 2x 500s behind the grill with out issues.  I've also seen them behind the grill on a bugeye RS without issue. I run 4 500s on a light bar on my RS and it does not overheat at all. The bigger concern would be as said melting the plastic. I'd check out a smaller LED bar if that is a concern. Measure your space and pick up one that fits accordingly if you don't want to stuff 500s in.
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Sep 9, 2013 01:27
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two_beer_bishes posted:My wife and I are talking about getting a WRX soon. We're looking at the new ones but also considering a used one (08 or newer probably) but I don't know what to look for as signs of abuse on these things since almost all of them are modded in some way. Reliability is pretty a important factor in the decision to buy another car so I want to be smart about this without losing out on the fun. Any advice? Imo, try to go newer than 2010 if you can. I have an 08 and don't get me wrong I absolutely love the car but there are better things available for the 2010+, and I like the look of the 10s+ better with the factory wide body setup.
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Sep 9, 2013 13:31
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I would just get a new one. My son has the 2012 Hatch version, and it's great because it performs well and he can put his 4 year old daughter in the back seat without issue. And he knows it wasn't abused 
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Sep 9, 2013 14:16
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two_beer_bishes posted:My wife and I are talking about getting a WRX soon. We're looking at the new ones but also considering a used one (08 or newer probably) but I don't know what to look for as signs of abuse on these things since almost all of them are modded in some way. Reliability is pretty a important factor in the decision to buy another car so I want to be smart about this without losing out on the fun. Any advice? I got a 2013 in May new because used ones were going for a few thousand less than a new one. If reliability is an important factor go new. You'll get the warranty and as daslog says you'll know it wasn't abused.
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Sep 9, 2013 15:00
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After a 2 year hiatus, I'm finally back in positive manifold pressure. Related, the clearcoat has all but completely peeled off the hoodscoop. Has anyone had experience just re clearing these plastic pieces or is a complete repaint the only way to make it look right? Also, good solutions for plugging holes after removing the wing? I was thinking of just doing some rubber grommets and painting/plasti-dipping the tops.
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Sep 9, 2013 16:57
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dayman posted:After a 2 year hiatus, I'm finally back in positive manifold pressure. Congrats! You might be able to find someone with a same color non-spoiler trunk lid that wants to trade. It's worth putting up an ad on NASIOC in your area or craigslist for that matter.
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Sep 9, 2013 20:02
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VelociBacon posted:Congrats! You might be able to find someone with a same color non-spoiler trunk lid that wants to trade. It's worth putting up an ad on NASIOC in your area or craigslist for that matter. Trade is probably a no-go. The wing has a big-ol hole in it. Possibly some available if the owner has switched to CF, good idea.
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Sep 9, 2013 21:07
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Thanks for the tips guys. We drove a 2011 at the dealer today and despite it being a base WRX with only a few extras, they are asking 27k for it which is $100 less than the brand new 2013 with full warranty! They didn't seem too willing to work with us on the price of the new one so I might check out another dealer. They didn't even mention the 2014 as an option for us either.
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Sep 10, 2013 00:22
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I paid 23.5K for a brand new 2011 (base model hatch) in August 2010, that is insane. There's a discount thread on NASIOC if you're on the east coast.
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Sep 10, 2013 00:38
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dayman posted:After a 2 year hiatus, I'm finally back in positive manifold pressure. My friend used bog after he took the spoiler off of his car, and after it was painted you have to know it was there to see the difference.
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Sep 10, 2013 01:27
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blargle posted:I paid 23.5K for a brand new 2011 (base model hatch) in August 2010, that is insane. There's a discount thread on NASIOC if you're on the east coast. Any chance you have a link? I didn't see anything like that when I was looking earlier. edit: I found it, thanks for the heads up two_beer_bishes fucked around with this message at 02:41 on Sep 10, 2013 |
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Sep 10, 2013 01:37
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A Saucy Bratwurst posted:Hey Cat Terrist, where can we get subaru parts in Aus? As far as I can tell subarugenuine parts is USA only. Bonus points if they sell parts for 98 Imprezas. You in Queensland> Rising Sun is a good place to start or I think AllthingsSubaru. I'll ask Kaptain Ballistik as he's been dealign with this more than I have been lately. Well.. I will once he's back from doign the WRC
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Sep 10, 2013 02:05
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A Saucy Bratwurst posted:Hey Cat Terrist, where can we get subaru parts in Aus? As far as I can tell subarugenuine parts is USA only. Bonus points if they sell parts for 98 Imprezas. They'll ship to Australia, though shipping is pretty expensive. But the fact that parts are so much cheaper there usually means you're still saving a ton of money. Just gotta watch out for any slight differences due to the whole LHD vs RHD, but most things are fine. I ordered replacement mirror gussets for my Forester from them last year, even with the shipping cost it was still less than half the price vs buying at the dealership here.
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Sep 10, 2013 02:19
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I'm looking at 2004ish Legacy or outback versions, the 2.0 or 2.5 litre engine. Usually these have run around 60-80k miles, any suggestions on what to look for? Whats typical errors on these cars?
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Sep 10, 2013 17:48
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2004ish is hard to answer, since 2005 is a major revamp. Are you looking specifically at 3rd gen (2004 & earlier), or 3rd and 4th gen around 2004? If so, 2005 is a pretty major leap forward in most senses. Edit: just noticed you said 2.0 - are you outside of the US?
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Sep 10, 2013 18:02
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si posted:2004ish is hard to answer, since 2005 is a major revamp. Are you looking specifically at 3rd gen (2004 & earlier), or 3rd and 4th gen around 2004? Yeah, I'm in Norway.
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Sep 10, 2013 18:50
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For roof racks on either a 2013 or 2014 WRX wagon, is it something I'll have to order from the dealer or can I easily install it myself? I can't figure out what the car comes with for mounting something. I see yakima has options for 300-400 which looks like everything, or I can get the subaru one for $160 online but I don't know if the car comes with the mounting hardware. e: Jamal, what options do you have available? two_beer_bishes fucked around with this message at 23:28 on Sep 10, 2013 |
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Sep 10, 2013 23:26
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two_beer_bishes posted:For roof racks on either a 2013 or 2014 WRX wagon, is it something I'll have to order from the dealer or can I easily install it myself? I can't figure out what the car comes with for mounting something. I see yakima has options for 300-400 which looks like everything, or I can get the subaru one for $160 online but I don't know if the car comes with the mounting hardware. The OEM ones come with all the hardware you need--they fit into the recessed rails on the roof.
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Sep 11, 2013 00:57
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Getting my Power FC install + tune done next Wednesday, and my DCCD pro should be shortly after that. Looking forward to trying it out after! I've been having a funny issue - was coming down a long fairly steep hill with an off-camber slow left turn (for about 15 seconds). It evened out and I gave it some gas and around 3.5k RPM it acted like it had a fuel cut and showed the CEL for 2-3 seconds. Is this due to the gas being away from the pickup? The tank was nearly full.
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Sep 11, 2013 01:00
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VelociBacon posted:Getting my Power FC install + tune done next Wednesday, and my DCCD pro should be shortly after that. Looking forward to trying it out after! Sound like a misfire to me.
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Sep 11, 2013 02:46
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Amandyke posted:Sound like a misfire to me. I thought when you misfire that it just flashes the CEL for a half second? I'm running US 92 octane on the advice of the shop (over the Canadian 94), maybe that's why.
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Sep 11, 2013 03:17
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I bought stuff! Beefy 50mm stuff! Also put my roof on, with 3m 5200 never-will-come-off-ever marine adhesive. 
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Sep 11, 2013 04:05
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So I'm finally working on the 2000 Forester with broken timing belt (and yes bent valves). It's amazing the care the engineers put into the design of the engine. There are no blocked fasteners. You can tell they located things where they are for easier access - each individual job must have been modeled on an engine for these cars. It's so darn easy to work on it's unbelievable. Even all of the wiring for the intake manifold is on it's own separate wiring harness that can be simply unplugged to get it out of the way. I have the intake manifold, the A/C just lays aside still connected, same with the Power steering, and alternator off. Soaking the exhaust studs to take down the exhaust manifolds - strangely they don't look rusty - but I don't trust them! Maybe I'm just too used to working on Volkswagens, Toyotas and Nissans.
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Sep 11, 2013 15:35
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0toShifty posted:So I'm finally working on the 2000 Forester with broken timing belt (and yes bent valves). They're really simple. We leave the intake on just unplug it, then just pop the PS and flip it to the side, same with AC on the otherside, then pop exhaust/bellhousing/fuel/motor mounts and lift from top using the intake. It really is a simple car. AC bolts are the only thing that I find to be a pain.
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Sep 11, 2013 15:48
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Usually the exhaust studs get rusted onto the nuts. Most people just hit them with an impact to take the entire thing off. The studs are like 2 bucks apiece, and it makes your life a lot easier to just get new ones at NAPA.
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Sep 11, 2013 15:52
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Slow is Fast posted:AC bolts are the only thing that I find to be a pain. Just that one fucker under the intake! They make everything else easy, it's like they either forgot or threw their hands up and said "This is the best we can do." My 2.5RS is my third car, and each car I had owned (3rd gen Camaro and then a Dakota) needed work to be roadworthy. I bought the 2.5RS with a snapped timing belt and bent valves, and after seeing how easy it was to work on and fun to drive, I was hooked.
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Sep 11, 2013 16:31
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Don't forget the single bolt on the intake manifold that is inexplicably red loctited. What the gently caress, Subaru?
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Sep 11, 2013 16:36
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Seat Safety Switch posted:Don't forget the single bolt on the intake manifold that is inexplicably red loctited. What the gently caress, Subaru? No manifold danger for Subarus.
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Sep 11, 2013 17:11
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So I got the heads off. Looks like all 16 of those valves are bent.   So do I: A. Scotchbrite the heads and put new valves (about $200) in the heads myself. B. Take the heads to a machine shop and have them resurface and replace valves for unknown dollars. C. Buy remanufactured cylinder heads from the Advance I work at for $319 each side.
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Sep 11, 2013 21:55
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0toShifty posted:So I got the heads off. Looks like all 16 of those valves are bent. A. Is the way I did it on my 2.5RS (same engine). I used a 3M abrasive plastic disc on a die grinder. The correct way is to use a razor blade because the abrasive will create dust and leave tiny particles in the oil passages that will make short work of your bearings. I didn't have a problem. I don't think you need to have your heads resurfaced unless you overheated the engine. Option C. is a time/money deal, I can't answer that for you.
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Sep 11, 2013 22:29
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That's a good price on re-manufactured heads. The Machine shop did my heads for 700.
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Sep 11, 2013 23:35
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