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Brain Issues posted:At Audi, we are required to call corporate TAC (technical assistance center) before we get authorization to do rings. They tell us to do them every time consumption is over .30QT/1000 miles. Thats ridiculous if VW's tolerance is 1qt/1000 for the exact same motor. .30/1000 is right around where my '07 sits, but that's with almost all the miles being city miles without full warmup. I'd heard the 1/1000 number thrown around before too.
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Aug 26, 2013 16:27
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Hey thread, I am thinking of replacing my aging BMW with a Jetta TDI. Am I being overly paranoid about poor maintenance's effect on the turbo if I'd rather pay a few grand more for a shiny new one rather than something with a few years on it? Nothing local seems to have the really thorough and perfect service history I'd like to see and for some reason I have this powerful fear of buying a used one and ending up with massive troubles due to previous owner neglect.
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Aug 26, 2013 17:05
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Before I throw it up on eBay, would any of you be interested in a Bentley manual for the '85-'93 Cabriolet and Scirocco?
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Aug 26, 2013 22:03
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AlternateAccount posted:Hey thread, Which years are you comparing?
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Aug 26, 2013 22:41
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veedubfreak posted:Which years are you comparing? 2011+, I think. So the savings on used wouldn't really be amazing.
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Aug 26, 2013 22:47
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AlternateAccount posted:2011+, I think. So the savings on used wouldn't really be amazing. CW Carefree Maintenance is 3 years or 36k miles on 09-13 models. Also you can just ask for receipts.
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Aug 27, 2013 01:49
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So the battery in my 2011 GTI is dying. The battery warranty for VWs is 2 year/24,000 miles nowadays, right? (I'm past that) I need to go in for 30,000 mile service soon anyway, but I'm trying to decide whether I should have the dealer do it or if I should do it myself. How much do dealers typically cost for a battery replacement and what is their new battery warranty? If I do it myself, what's a good brand of battery to get? EDIT: I was almost due for my 30,000 mile service anyway so I just took it to the dealer. I was out of the battery warranty but they comped it anyway. drat I like having a good dealership around here. smax fucked around with this message at 15:36 on Aug 27, 2013 |
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Aug 27, 2013 12:53
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AlternateAccount posted:2011+, I think. So the savings on used wouldn't really be amazing. Going that new, I'd just buy new. So far my 11 Golf TDI has been great. The newer the car, in theory the less likely to have the HPFP grenade on you too. Resale on TDIs is huge, so you won't really end up saving much on a 1-2 year old car anyway.
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Aug 27, 2013 17:43
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veedubfreak posted:Going that new, I'd just buy new. So far my 11 Golf TDI has been great. The newer the car, in theory the less likely to have the HPFP grenade on you too. I bought my 2010 Golf TDI last October for $18k in Ohio. The market will be different where he is, but that's still ~$7k cheaper than a new TDI.
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Aug 27, 2013 17:57
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Hashtag Banterzone posted:I bought my 2010 Golf TDI last October for $18k in Ohio. The market will be different where he is, but that's still ~$7k cheaper than a new TDI. Er wait my numbers were wrong. But at the time when I bought mine, the new TDI had only been out a year.
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Aug 27, 2013 21:50
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This weekend I picked up a 2010 Audi A3 1.6 TDI (Live in Ireland so UK/Euro types apply) 75k miles, I know the timing belt needs to be changed soon, but the dealership wouldn't change it as Audi claim it doesn't need to be changed until 120k miles. I bought it knowing that it needs to be changed soon. All seems fine, except that after a period of driving (30 mins or more, so when the engine is warm) when sitting at traffic lights in neutral there is a noticeable chugging from the engine (Physical shaking and noise). It's not apparent when the engine is cold. Any ideas as to what it is? It's going in to be checked tomorrow but just wondering what it could be.
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Aug 27, 2013 22:21
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Peteee posted:This weekend I picked up a 2010 Audi A3 1.6 TDI (Live in Ireland so UK/Euro types apply) My PD has an occasional lump in the idle, it's cured by giving it an Italian tune-up. Chuck some BP Ultimate or V-power in and give it a bit of a rag, clear out the injector nozzles a bit. 120k probably is right for that engine's belt interval, most PDs are rated for 80k with a lot of load on the belt (To prime the injectors.) so 120k should be doable for a similar belt only turning two cams and a common rail pump.
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Aug 27, 2013 23:26
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Is it a DSG? The DSG sometimes likes to hold the clutch out just a little and chug the engine when you come to a stop, just for a second, in case you start right off again. It's more noticeable when warm since the idle is lower. Mine doesn't really shake, but it's the 2.0, not the 1.6. If it keeps doing it for more than a moment, I have no clue.
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Aug 28, 2013 00:23
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So I have a couple questions for this thread. I have an '03 GTI VR6 and the following weird things are happening: 1) It's eating coolant. I keep having to top it up. This happened before a few years ago and it was apparently a master cylinder that had to replaced and once that was done it stopped, but would you really expect the replacement master cylinder to go bad so quickly? I'm talking in the past 3ish years. 2) I recently had the alternator replaced and thanks to the shop that did that work I know that the reason the computer on this thing always says "Alternator Workshop" whenever the engine revs over some rpm (1500-1600 or so?) is because when a VW dealer did a warranty replacement of the computer (it wouldn't always turn on and would sometimes shut off) they installed a faulty part. The original theory was that they hadn't hooked up some wire, but the shop that did the warranty replacement wanted $500 for a new battery (don't ask, that's just what they said) before they would consider anything else causing that (even though it didn't happen until they installed the part) and no other VW dealer would stand by the work, they all wanted a few hundred just to check if the first place plugged the wires in correctly. So the short version of this is I know there's no way to get the drat computer replaced under warranty since this took place back in '06 or '07 (as burned as I feel about that!), but now, ever since the alternator was replaced, the engine will rev higher when it starts than it used to and sort of hang there for a moment (like, holding around 1300-1500 rpm longer than would seem normal) and I'm wondering if this is something that could be linked to the bad computer in the car. Of course, there's actually the third thing that's wrong which is that sometimes the daytime running lights are on and sometimes they're not... and I can't see a pattern as to when they are or are not on (I haven't done anything to disable them myself) and, now that I think about it the a/c fan doesn't always run at full blast when I have it turned up all the way, sometimes it doesn't really kick on until I hit the throttle and get the engine revving. I guess it's more than a couple questions, but has anyone seen something like this before? The check engine light has come on a couple times, but then goes away on its own (I had it reset once and the guy at the shop that reset it said it had something to do with the airflow to the engine, but he wanted me to drive it a bit and see if it came back on, which it did, but then it went away on its own and repeated that process a couple more times). The check engine light hasn't been on for at least a couple months at this point. Oh, and it has ~112k miles on it.
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Aug 28, 2013 01:45
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Ha. $800 quote for the 55k service on my a4. 2 air filters, oil change, and spark plugs.
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Aug 28, 2013 17:46
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havelock posted:Ha. $800 quote for the 55k service on my a4. 2 air filters, oil change, and spark plugs. That's pretty absurd, even by German automaker standards.
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Aug 30, 2013 02:08
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sticksy posted:That's pretty absurd, even by German automaker standards. It apparently costs $400 to plug into the diagnostic computer or some BS like that. The indie shop has caught on about how overpriced the dealer is and has raised their prices to match. Only $699 from them.
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Aug 30, 2013 03:39
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They haven't been on my radar but a B5.5 Passat Wagon 1.8T (2005) caught my eye due to price and low mileage (42k). What's reliability and maintenance like on these? What would I need to expect to spend to get it to 100k?
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Sep 4, 2013 01:42
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blk posted:What would I need to expect to spend to get it to 100k? A miracle
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Sep 4, 2013 01:50
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blk posted:They haven't been on my radar but a B5.5 Passat Wagon 1.8T (2005) caught my eye due to price and low mileage (42k). What's reliability and maintenance like on these? What would I need to expect to spend to get it to 100k? The coil packs are basically consumables and unless it's been kept up with proper oil changes using the right types of oil the turbo is ready to poo poo itself. You will also need a $1400+ service before you reach 100k (timing belt and water pump plus the front seals as they will likely start leaking before the next timing belt interval if you don't replace them). This is before we start talking about the electrical issues. Bottom line: if it doesn't come with a stack of maintenance receipts showing it's been properly cared for it's entire life there's likely to be a very good reason it's priced the way it is. And even then.
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Sep 4, 2013 03:21
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blk posted:They haven't been on my radar but a B5.5 Passat Wagon 1.8T (2005) caught my eye due to price and low mileage (42k). What's reliability and maintenance like on these? What would I need to expect to spend to get it to 100k? Be my dad. 220k miles and going strong on a 99 Passat.
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Sep 4, 2013 21:22
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Residency Evil posted:Be my dad. 220k miles and going strong on a 99 Passat. There's nothing at all to stop them from doing that. If they aren't driven by people who think it's a Cavalier and maintain it the same way (meaning don't maintain it at all). This is all about maintenance records when buying used.
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Sep 5, 2013 01:13
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Does anyone have access to a bentley manual, or some part number database for a 2006 Jetta? I need to replace the passenger front door wiring harness, but can't find the part number anywhere online.
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Sep 5, 2013 17:38
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Residency Evil posted:Be my dad. 220k miles and going strong on a 99 Passat. MY DAD made it to 240k on the original turbo using only dino oil, so nyah. 98 Passat 1.8t. Admittedly he did go through 2 transmissions because he liked to run over poo poo at high speeds on the highway.
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Sep 5, 2013 19:44
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Kashwashwa posted:Does anyone have access to a bentley manual, or some part number database for a 2006 Jetta? https://www.1stvwparts.com/partscat.html or http://www.vwpartscenter.net/parts/?siteid=215911
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Sep 5, 2013 19:48
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BlackMK4 posted:https://www.1stvwparts.com/partscat.html I've gone through those sites, they don't seem to have the door harness listed. When I typed in the part number for the drivers door (1K5 971 120 H), it shows that they can get it, but it isn't listed through their menu system either.
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Sep 5, 2013 20:01
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Wow, that's strange. I just noticed there are no harnesses at all listed there. 
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Sep 5, 2013 20:05
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What oil should not be thrown into a 2.0T? (B7-era) Independent shop is using Castrol which I've read is fine, and they seem to know their poo poo. (I figure I'll start patronizing the a local shop around here instead of finding a dealer).
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Sep 6, 2013 01:01
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movax posted:What oil should not be thrown into a 2.0T? (B7-era) Independent shop is using Castrol which I've read is fine, and they seem to know their poo poo. (I figure I'll start patronizing the a local shop around here instead of finding a dealer). I think Castrol is what the dealerships use. I know it's what they use in the TDI.
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Sep 6, 2013 14:54
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Prefect Six posted:So got my used oil analysis back on the TT I recently bought. Doesn't look good. I'm going to do what they suggest and change it at 1000 miles to see if that helps clear things out, but should I start looking to get rid of it? Here's the next UOA: https://www.dropbox.com/s/7xukfss7lx1f91j/01%20AUDI%20TT-081613%20PUBLIC.pdf Things are looking better. Hopefully the oil was just old and hadn't been changed in a while. I know it hadn't been changed between when the water pump/timing belt service and when I bought it. Things are looking up 
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Sep 6, 2013 15:36
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So I finally scraped up the cash do the 75K mile maintenance on my A4 (timing belt, water pump, and serpentine belt), and the dealership just called wanting to replace the Cam Adjustor Seal for an additional $450. They say if they do it while they're in there for this other maintenance, it would save me 1.5 hours of labor, and that on a scale of 1 to 3 (three being the worst) they'd rate the condition of the Seal as a 2, whatever that means. Some quick Googling leads me to believe the Cam Adjustor Seal can only leak oil, and I've never noticed or been informed of any noticeable amount of oil leaking. I also found an online DIY guide that says the parts themselves are only about $30, and can be replaced in an hour or two. My DIY knowledge is limited to changing spark plugs, engine filters, and headlight fixtures, but is this the kind of thing a non-mechanic could do in his driveway? $450 is just a lot of money for me right now, so I'm inclined to tell them not to replace it with the hope of either holding out until it becomes a problem or figuring out how to do it myself. Edit: If the guide is correct, I think it's only like a $5 part and a $30 tool: http://www.ecstuning.com/Audi-B5_A4-Quattro-V6_30v/Search/Cam_Adjuster_Seal/ES258758/ http://www.europaparts.com/cam-chain-tensioner-tool-3366.html Blakkout fucked around with this message at 18:12 on Sep 9, 2013 |
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Sep 9, 2013 17:32
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Basically every 1.8t or 2.8 leaks oil from the adjuster seal, the reason you don't see it is cause most of it is burning on your exhaust. It isnt something that's going to prevent the car from running, but it will not get any better on its own, either. Eventually you will notice burning smells and smoke entering the vents. If you have only done things like spark plugs, fixing the seals is probably not the right job for you. It can be done is about 30 minutes, but its a really complicated job for someone with no knowledge. The official procedure involves removing the camshaft, the way its done is to collapse the tensioner with the tool you linked, then move the cam gear around until you get enough play in it to lift the adjuster up and slide the new seal in. Also you should use anaerobic sealant on the seal to try and hope the new one will last more than 50k. Also you will need a valve cover gasket, since you remove the v/c to get to the adjuster.
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Sep 9, 2013 21:10
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420Chris posted:Basically every 1.8t or 2.8 leaks oil from the adjuster seal, the reason you don't see it is cause most of it is burning on your exhaust. It isnt something that's going to prevent the car from running, but it will not get any better on its own, either. Eventually you will notice burning smells and smoke entering the vents. This guy knows what he's talking about. I would see if they can do it for any less than $450 since they're already doing a T-Belt I can't imagine it should take 2 extra hours of labor to do the seal. I would have only charged 1 hour extra to do the seal if I was doing a T-Belt. Timing belt/water pump is a gravy job as it is, if I was that technician I would definitely do the seal for only an hour extra. Brain Issues fucked around with this message at 21:46 on Sep 9, 2013 |
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Sep 9, 2013 21:44
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I'm going to go with a friend to look at a 1999 A4 Avant Quattro with the 2.5 Tdi V6 tomorrow. Anything I particularly need to check on? Known trouble spots?
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Sep 9, 2013 22:08
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InitialDave posted:I'm going to go with a friend to look at a 1999 A4 Avant Quattro with the 2.5 Tdi V6 tomorrow. Expect the rear suspension to creak (Anti-roll bar) and the front suspension to be shagged, so check for crappy unresponsive steering, bump steer, general loose feeling. 2.5 V6 TDIs suffer head gasket issues too. B5s are great cars, i had one brriefy, but they're almost all shagged now. My 1.8T Quattro Sport was cream crackered, in the end i just sold it on because it needed so much to put it right.
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Sep 10, 2013 00:10
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Excluding Audi since the market and value equation is totally different, and this isn't meant to be a troll or a criticism - I've been thinking about VW lately and I wonder why it has its loyalists. I understand the appeal of a car with VW's initial fit and finish, but everything I read from long term owners says that cabins quickly start to rattle and develop wind noise. I like the handling and the performance of the VWs I've driven, but it's not like they're lightyears ahead of Japanese and American offerings, and all the nightmare stories I hear regarding cost of ownership would lead me to assume that most people wouldn't find the performance to be worth the price. I understand why so many people are attracted to TDIs, but again - maintenance and unexpected repairs make them less economical than they appear at face value. I'm not declaring VWs unreliable here or judging your purchases, it's just what that owner and mechanic anecdotes I read online (as well as market surveys for what they're worth) say they're frequently full of headaches (who knows how many trouble free owners aren't reporting; although mechanics' opinions tip me over the edge here). I've driven old and new Beetles, Golfs 2, 3 and 4, GTI 4 and 5, Jetta 4, 5, and 6 - and I see why the cars are liked when they're new and/or working the way they should, but everything I hear is that they're usually not working the way they should. Why do you guys like VW? What makes them appeal to you, and makes you buy another one? What Pro am I missing that outweighs the Cons? Bonus points if you can convince me that a MkVI GTI would be a great car for my wife who likes them but hates having to fix things.
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Sep 10, 2013 02:50
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I like them because they are slightly more fun to drive and classy than your usual Japanese econobox. Definitely cheap to work on if you can fix them yourself. Like... insanely cheap when you're talking MKIV platform. That said, it I could afford to I wouldn't be driving one. Also, I like my TDI in terms of gas mileage and it being fairly quick for what it is but that's about it. If I could put my ALH into an E46 sedan chassis with suspension upgrades... well... that's a perfect DD. BlackMK4 fucked around with this message at 03:07 on Sep 10, 2013 |
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Sep 10, 2013 03:05
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blk posted:Bonus points if you can convince me that a MkVI GTI would be a great car for my wife who likes them but hates having to fix things. For what it's worth, my ~anecdotal~~ experience with VW is this: I bought my Mk6 GTI at Thanksgiving 2009. 4 years later and the biggest problem it's had is that once when I started it, the fuel gauge sender had a bit of a snit and the gauge stayed on E until I restarted the engine again. It's got about 43,000 miles on it, doesn't make weird sounds, hasn't had any unexpected maintenance, doesn't burn oil, and has been much more reliable than the Honda Accord I owned before it (go figure).
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Sep 10, 2013 12:25
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blk posted:Bonus points if you can convince me that a MkVI GTI would be a great car for my wife who likes them but hates having to fix things. More anecdotal stuff: 2011 GTI, just under 3 years old and 30,000 miles here. The only things that have happened to me were a bad battery and the engine mistakenly freaked out about oil once. Apparently on very rare occasions the oil sensor might freak out--nothing was actually wrong and it cleared up with a restart.
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Sep 10, 2013 13:19
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More anecdotal stuff: 2010 GTI, 42k miles. I did have one problem recently in that the high pressure line from the AC broke, but other than that I've had 0 issues owning it as a 2nd owner. The Autobahn interior package is a fantastic place to be with fit/finish better than some cars costing 40k, it drives well, rides well, and as much as I hate to parrot Top Gear/Clarkson, it doesn't look out of place in any situation. Also as I've mentioned above MY DAD has a 1999 Passat that has 220k miles on it. In those 220k miles he had to replace the coilpacks once but other than that, no problems other than regularly scheduled maintenance (including the timing belt).
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Sep 10, 2013 16:02
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