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Grape Soda posted:My vet is requiring a stool sample from one of our cats for his one year checkup. How is the best way to do this with as little
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Sep 10, 2013 21:08
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and sad kitty meows? Cat diaper? Lock him in a bathroom? Watch his every move? If it has litter on it that is from a box that isn't 100% disinfected will that mess things up? The last time I took in a stool sample it was liquid poo poo on the carpet so that was easy.
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One of my cats has a UTI and the vet gave us some amoxicillin pills for it. Unfortunately, she's grown too smart for Greenies and is in general a squirmy little poo poo. Is there a way to pill her quickly and painlessly without too many supplies? (We have a syringe, but it's already been used in an aborted urine sample collection attempt.)
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Sep 11, 2013 02:00
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Nyarai posted:One of my cats has a UTI and the vet gave us some amoxicillin pills for it. Unfortunately, she's grown too smart for Greenies and is in general a squirmy little poo poo. Is there a way to pill her quickly and painlessly without too many supplies? (We have a syringe, but it's already been used in an aborted urine sample collection attempt.) I hold my cat in my left arm, on her back. I can hold all four paws down with my left hand and hold her snug against my body with my arm. I can then wedge the pill between her teeth to force her mouth open. A quick toss to the back of her throat and then I hold her jaw shut until she swallows. Occasionally my toss will be off and she'll cheek it then spit it out, but it's usually over with in seconds. I'll give a treat beforehand to get saliva going, and another afterwards as a reward. Overall it works pretty well.
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Sep 11, 2013 02:11
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Deteriorata posted:I hold my cat in my left arm, on her back. I can hold all four paws down with my left hand and hold her snug against my body with my arm. I can then wedge the pill between her teeth to force her mouth open. A quick toss to the back of her throat and then I hold her jaw shut until she swallows. I had to give my kitten cherry-flavoured liquid amoxicillin when I got her, and I used a similar tactic - why they don't make that crap chicken- or beef-flavoured I'll never know. Funny part is that after she swallowed she would lick her mouth and lips (inasmuch as cats have those) like she didn't mind the taste.
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Sep 11, 2013 16:09
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JustJeff88 posted:I had to give my kitten cherry-flavoured liquid amoxicillin when I got her, and I used a similar tactic - why they don't make that crap chicken- or beef-flavoured I'll never know. Funny part is that after she swallowed she would lick her mouth and lips (inasmuch as cats have those) like she didn't mind the taste. The companies that sell the liquid antibiotics to vets just sell the human pediatric stuff. Even if it says "veterinary" on the package it's still human stuff, just repackaged by the company.
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Sep 11, 2013 17:09
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HelloSailorSign posted:The companies that sell the liquid antibiotics to vets just sell the human pediatric stuff. Even if it says "veterinary" on the package it's still human stuff, just repackaged by the company. That makes sense and, to be honest, I had a feeling anyway as this package doesn't even have any specific indicator of being veterinary. I may very well slam some of that stuff down myself in the event of a bacterial infection as I really enjoy cherries and even minor health care in the US costs roughly the GNP of Switzerland.
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Sep 11, 2013 18:02
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She's a lot squirmier than I thought. It took three people to restrain her at her vet appointment. (She also hulked out when I tried to clip her nails, and cut a nice gash in my thumb.) We're gonna try some tastier options like coldcuts or cream cheese, and then if that fails, we'll have to get the liquid medicine instead.
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Sep 11, 2013 18:11
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I have a sick cat who's stubborn as gently caress, and getting him to take his meds is a two-person job, so when I'm alone, I mix them in with a spreadable cheese and spread it on his paws so he's forced to lick it off. I could not otherwise get them into his mouth by myself. I was using pills, switched to liquid, and the vet pharmacy mixed in some chicken flavor into the liquid and suggested mixing in an additional 1/2 teaspoon of the oil from a can of tuna, but the medicine is still incredibly bitter so I can't fault the poor cat for not wanting it.
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Sep 11, 2013 18:44
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Hello cat owners. I'm looking to adopt a cat. I'm hearing all sorts of different opinions on which route to go. Should I get a kitten or a cat that's a bit older? Should I adopt two cats instead of one so that they keep themselves company? We live in a two-story house and the first floor is hardwood floors with rugs throughout and the stairs/second floor are carpeted. Will hardwood floors be a problem for cats? What about piss/poop accidents on hardwood? Thanks in advance.
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Sep 12, 2013 04:50
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I'm about to do a full litter replacement and I just want to make sure that I don't use any cleaning products that are going to either hurt my kittens or put them off using their boxes. I have 2 boxes, both of which are quite large (my cats could sleep in them with room to spare) and I use Swheat Scoop. Obviously I'm going to dump out the litter and replace it with all fresh litter, but what do you recommend to clean/disinfect before putting in fresh litter? I have Nature's Miracle, several typical household cleaning products, and a bottle of 15:1 water/bleach solution. What would be the best thing? I'm going to empty one box, clean it, let it completely air dry, and then do the other one after the fresh litter is in the first so that they don't go without a fresh box for any period of time, then do the other one. I just don't want to hurt them or accidentally "persuade" them to stop using their boxes like good girls.
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Sep 12, 2013 05:00
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Does anyone here have experience with underfloor heating in relation to cat litter boxes? I felt like the stink of urine from our cats' 2 boxes was WAY worse than it should be, especially as I use a brand of litter I know to be good (CatSan), scoop them every time they have poop and change both boxes fully 2x a week - then I read on the local version of the litter brand's website that underfloor heating could cause problems with smells. The entire bottom floor of our house is underfloor only. Does anyone know a material to go under the boxes or otherwise some solution to keep them from the heat? Or is there another kind of litter which won't be a problem with it? Also one box is covered and the other open, but we still seem to get smell problems even when only the covered box has been used. E - also considered if they were peeing elsewhere but the smell only seems to come from the area of the litter boxes and I've not caught them peeing anywhere else, or found any cat urine (we have a pale tile floor which I think would show up urine staining). Not discounting it though. moerketid fucked around with this message at 08:11 on Sep 12, 2013 |
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Sep 12, 2013 08:09
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My kitten has decided he's terrified of the bed. He's usually jumping all over me this time of the morning, and he does jump up and sniff around on occasion, but if I so much as blink in his direction he bolts. And he sits on the floor next to the bed and meows at me. I woke up once and he was sleeping on my shoulder, but I don't remember anything else. I guess something must have happened that I didn't notice.  Which is strange, because I'm a very light sleeper.It's a pretty sudden change in behavior, though, and he does have a vet appointment for vaccines today anyway.
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Sep 12, 2013 14:00
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rndm posted:Hello cat owners. I'm looking to adopt a cat. I'm hearing all sorts of different opinions on which route to go. Should I get a kitten or a cat that's a bit older? Should I adopt two cats instead of one so that they keep themselves company? We live in a two-story house and the first floor is hardwood floors with rugs throughout and the stairs/second floor are carpeted. Will hardwood floors be a problem for cats? What about piss/poop accidents on hardwood? Thanks in advance. Not sure if my experience is representative but I adopted a single kitten a little over a year ago and he's been great. I mean he does all the rear end in a top hat things that cats do because they are assholes but he doesn't do any permanent damage to anything and he's pretty good about chilaxing while I'm away at work during the day. As for hard wood, the only problem is the fact that you have to be really diligent about sweeping or you'll get cat hair and pieces of litter all over the place but I think thats probably better than carpet where it's harder to see all the stuff your little rear end in a top hat is tracking all over the house. He hasn't had an accident on the hardwood so I'm not sure about cleaning that up.
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Sep 12, 2013 15:52
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moerketid posted:Does anyone here have experience with underfloor heating in relation to cat litter boxes? I felt like the stink of urine from our cats' 2 boxes was WAY worse than it should be, especially as I use a brand of litter I know to be good (CatSan), scoop them every time they have poop and change both boxes fully 2x a week - then I read on the local version of the litter brand's website that underfloor heating could cause problems with smells. The entire bottom floor of our house is underfloor only. Does anyone know a material to go under the boxes or otherwise some solution to keep them from the heat? I don't have this problem but from a heat transfer point of view you want to place the litter boxes on top of a material that does not transfer heat well. Examples would be Styrofoam or Wood. There are likely others, porcelain comes to mind, but wood is likely the cheapest and easiest. I'd give that a shoot first. Elevated on a few cement blocks would certainly also do the trick
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Sep 12, 2013 16:42
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Goodpancakes posted:I don't have this problem but from a heat transfer point of view you want to place the litter boxes on top of a material that does not transfer heat well. Examples would be Styrofoam or Wood. There are likely others, porcelain comes to mind, but wood is likely the cheapest and easiest. I'd give that a shoot first. Elevated on a few cement blocks would certainly also do the trick Thanks! I was wondering just what the best thing to put under there would be. A thick block of wood should be easy without putting them off using the boxes or being lamentably hideous around the house (though I'd rather the hideous than the stench - right now I'm going nuts with the stink of cat piss).
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Sep 12, 2013 17:30
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rndm posted:Hello cat owners. I'm looking to adopt a cat. I'm hearing all sorts of different opinions on which route to go. Should I get a kitten or a cat that's a bit older? Should I adopt two cats instead of one so that they keep themselves company? We live in a two-story house and the first floor is hardwood floors with rugs throughout and the stairs/second floor are carpeted. Will hardwood floors be a problem for cats? What about piss/poop accidents on hardwood? Thanks in advance. I have a house that is 90% hardwood floors. I find it much more preferable to clean up accidents (mostly just vomit) off the hardwood. If you can get it Nature's Miracle brand enzymatic cleaner makes a "for hard surfaces" spray to help get rid of any trace sent of urine/feces. So far my cats have shown no preference in the hardwood/carpet area and it is loving hilarious to watch them when they can't get any traction on hardwood. Eventually both of my cats learned to 'Tokyo drift' around the corners to compensate for the smooth floor surface. As for what kind of cat to get, that depends on your lifestyle. Two cats are good because they give each other company when you're not around and provide each other with play opportunities rather than a lone cat that turns to knocking over your things as a game. If you really, really only want one cat then see if you can find a local shelter/foster agency that understands the personalities of their cats well enough to pair you with a cat that might do better on its own. You will also want at least 1 litter box for each floor of your house to make sure that the cat(s) can get to it as easily as possible and reduce the risk of accidents.
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Sep 12, 2013 20:44
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Can anyone offer a possible explanation as to why my boy cat follows me into my kitchen and starts to meep, rub against my legs and flop around on the floor? He shows no interest in people food or beverages, other than to demand a sniff of whatever I am serving myself, and treats are only served at the cat tree. Am I missing some message here?
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Sep 13, 2013 01:46
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Canadian Bakin posted:Can anyone offer a possible explanation as to why my boy cat follows me into my kitchen and starts to meep, rub against my legs and flop around on the floor? He shows no interest in people food or beverages, other than to demand a sniff of whatever I am serving myself, and treats are only served at the cat tree. Am I missing some message here? Your cat is a cat and is working as intended.
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Sep 13, 2013 05:46
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Hello cat goons! I adopted this 14.5 pounds of rear end in a top hat a couple weeks ago, and I wanted to share his goofy face with you:   His name is Meowtimer T. Butts, and he is the most perfect cat in the world.
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Sep 13, 2013 06:22
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My vet told me that my cat has "some minor gingivitis" on his back teeth at our most recent visit last month and told me to schedule a cleaning within a few weeks, so I did. I assumed it would be a minor procedure, just cleaning his teeth, right? Then I found out today that it's going to cost a minimum of $419, and that's if there aren't any problems and they don't have to pull any teeth, in which case it could reach nearly a thousand dollars. I wasn't prepared at all. Is that normal?  I know you can't put a price on the love of your pet, but last month he also swallowed some string and had to get it cut out of him for $900. loving hell. edit: Meowtimer Butts rules, congrats 
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Sep 13, 2013 15:11
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Blue Scream posted:My vet told me that my cat has "some minor gingivitis" on his back teeth at our most recent visit last month and told me to schedule a cleaning within a few weeks, so I did. I assumed it would be a minor procedure, just cleaning his teeth, right? Then I found out today that it's going to cost a minimum of $419, and that's if there aren't any problems and they don't have to pull any teeth, in which case it could reach nearly a thousand dollars. I wasn't prepared at all. Is that normal? I must be a bad cat owner, as I've never done anything to a cat's teeth. I feed them dry food primarily, which helps keep them clean. I have one cat (out of three) who is currently 19 and has lost enough teeth that dry food is difficult for her to eat, so she's on canned food (which the other cats try to steal all the time). They don't seem particularly unhappy with the situation, so I'm not terribly concerned about it. Unless they get an abscessed tooth or something, I don't worry about my pets' dental health too much.
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Sep 13, 2013 15:45
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I've had my cat's teeth cleaned like once, and she's also 19 and not yet missing any teeth. Kibble roolz. If the gingivitis is 'minor', you clearly don't need to have it done right away. If I was in your situation I would cancel the appointment and put like $60 or however much I could afford aside every week or fortnight, and then when I had the $419 saved up take her in to have her teeth done and put any extra incidental charges on a credit card. Also get a quote from other vets because drat. E: This has reminded me to ask my vet for a quote on every routine procedure, because loving hell I can't afford to take myself to the dentist and, sorry cat, but if it costs $500 for you to go you can get in line behind me. 
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Sep 13, 2013 15:56
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Blue Scream posted:My vet told me that my cat has "some minor gingivitis" on his back teeth at our most recent visit last month and told me to schedule a cleaning within a few weeks, so I did. I assumed it would be a minor procedure, just cleaning his teeth, right? Then I found out today that it's going to cost a minimum of $419, and that's if there aren't any problems and they don't have to pull any teeth, in which case it could reach nearly a thousand dollars. I wasn't prepared at all. Is that normal? They have to put them under anesthesia to do it, which is most of the cost. Some clinics have dental days like once a month where you can get it done at a discount.
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Sep 13, 2013 16:15
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Dogen posted:They have to put them under anesthesia to do it, which is most of the cost. Some clinics have dental days like once a month where you can get it done at a discount. Yeah. I've done some reading that says there can be pretty serious consequences if gingivitis is not treated properly (bacteria getting into the bloodstream, causing infections, etc.), so it's not like I'm averse to getting it done, I just don't have any idea what's a normal cost around here. I'm asking some other vets in my area for quotes. My cat gets wet food because he's always had a dodgy stomach, and he pukes more with dry food. I'm not sure that dry food really does all that much to keep his teeth clean anyway, since he just gulps it down as fast as he can (and throws it back up). Cats 
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Sep 13, 2013 17:04
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I have a third story balcony outside and while there is a guard rail all around it my cat could potentially slip under or between it. How dangerous is it to allow my cat out there? Shes a little over a year old and pretty active. There's nothing nearby, above, or below for her to try to jump to, my only concern is her slipping off. I considered weaving chickenwire or the like through it but that would look pretty weird.
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Sep 13, 2013 17:20
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Blue Scream posted:Yeah. I've done some reading that says there can be pretty serious consequences if gingivitis is not treated properly (bacteria getting into the bloodstream, causing infections, etc.), so it's not like I'm averse to getting it done, I just don't have any idea what's a normal cost around here. I'm asking some other vets in my area for quotes. Yeah also just like in people the maintenance cleaning helps you from having to get a more expensive extraction done later on. I remember reading a while back that wet versus dry doesn't make much difference for dental health anyway (wet helps keep em hydrated is its main advantage). Definitely ask around or like I said, ask if they have a specific day they offer discounts on. Also throwing up makes their teeth worse because stomach acid, but some cats are just like that (one of ours is an every other day barfer).
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Sep 13, 2013 17:27
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Our two cats are settling in well and doing so much better than when we brought them home 2 weeks ago. So here's a photo of them being cute.
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Sep 13, 2013 17:39
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Manslaughter posted:I have a third story balcony outside and while there is a guard rail all around it my cat could potentially slip under or between it. How dangerous is it to allow my cat out there? Shes a little over a year old and pretty active. There's nothing nearby, above, or below for her to try to jump to, my only concern is her slipping off. I considered weaving chickenwire or the like through it but that would look pretty weird. E: Blue Scream are you Austrayan? You said 'dodgy', so I'm wondering. If so, I can call my vet tomorrow and get a quote to compare prices, since mine is pretty good at charging reasonable rates. I'm in Western Sydney. And not a Liberal, the av is from some Tory poo poo gloating in Auspol after the election. Death to Tories. Fruity Gordo fucked around with this message at 17:55 on Sep 13, 2013 |
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Sep 13, 2013 17:48
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I have a great cat, Sherman, that I rescued years ago, who's always been a big of a pugilist. It's okay; he's from the streets like me. He's my bro. Two weeks ago, my wife and I picked up a very nice persian rug to replace the old threadbare area rug we've had in our dining room. All Sherman seems to want to do is dig his claws in and pull out a ton of pile. It's not terrible yet, but it's only been two weeks, and he's pulling out a significant amount of wool. I've only seen him doing it once, and moved him to the (catnip-encrusted) scratching post in the room that he usually loves. We keep his claws trimmed. Every day, though, I come home to find more loose fibers. The house layout is such that it'll be hard to keep him off the rug, and I can't keep him out of the room. I could try buying some of those Ssscats, but I imagine it'll take at least 6 or 8 to cover the entire perimeter. Still, this thing was supposed to last us a decade or two. How else can I make it last? It was not a small purchase, and we really like how it ties the room together. Is a $200 border fence of Ssscats the best defense? edit: Double sided tape has worked in the past on a sofa he liked to scratch, but I'm not sure how to make it feasible on the rug. I'll try a perimeter of tinfoil in the meantime. edit2: ran out of tinfoil a third of the way in. thanks, obama! hey girl you up fucked around with this message at 02:38 on Sep 14, 2013 |
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Sep 14, 2013 02:27
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Dude. Protect your rug. You know what'll happen if you don't.
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Sep 14, 2013 02:31
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Blue Scream posted:My vet told me that my cat has "some minor gingivitis" on his back teeth at our most recent visit last month and told me to schedule a cleaning within a few weeks, so I did. I assumed it would be a minor procedure, just cleaning his teeth, right? Then I found out today that it's going to cost a minimum of $419, and that's if there aren't any problems and they don't have to pull any teeth, in which case it could reach nearly a thousand dollars. I wasn't prepared at all. Is that normal? Anesthesia makes up a big chunk of the cost. That sounds about the price my clinic would charge for an uncomplicated dental, but you also should figure out if that includes things like IV catheter, dental x-rays, pain meds to go home, etc. Some clinics will advertise a cheap dental, but that's because they leave out things they consider "extra" (and if you ask other vets those cheaper clinics are committing malpractice) so you generally get what you pay for. I have not infrequently sent home $1k estimates if the animal has a trench mouth or w/e. Just as in people, genetics play a big component in oral health, as does diet. We're still determining if there's a nutrient balance that promotes dental health (related to pH, among other things). I've seen some cats with no dental care have nice teeth at 9 while another cat has to have full mouth extractions at 3. For most animals dry food does nothing for dental health. Many animals don't even chew dry food, and most kibbles when crushed will shatter, as opposed to kinda deform then break. Basically, the only things cleaned by a shattering kibble is the tip. If the tip of the tooth can sink in a bit before the kibble shatters, then there's more tooth "scrubbed" by the kibble. The only kibbles that really do that are the prescription dental diets.
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Sep 14, 2013 03:00
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PFlats posted:I have a great cat, Sherman, that I rescued years ago, who's always been a big of a pugilist. It's okay; he's from the streets like me. He's my bro. What worked to keep our cat from scratching the brand new carpet was to put her scratching post down horizontally on the actual carpet. Now she goes goes to that when she feels like scratching. Of course, this has the obvious disadvantage of having a scratching post sitting in the middle of the living room all the time, but at least we can put it away when we have people over so they don't know how much she owns us. A scratching pad that's designed to be horizontal would probably work just as well and be less of an eyesore. That said, we never tried covering the rug in tinfoil or anything so I guess that could work.
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Sep 14, 2013 05:57
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HelloSailorSign posted:The only kibbles that really do that are the prescription dental diets. My two previous kitties and the current one use the prescription dental kibble mixed about 50:50 with normal kibble and it works wonders. Pricey, but none of them ever needed dental treatment.
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Sep 14, 2013 07:20
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four lean hounds posted:I have a house that is 90% hardwood floors. So far my cats have shown no preference in the hardwood/carpet area and it is loving hilarious to watch them when they can't get any traction on hardwood. Eventually both of my cats learned to 'Tokyo drift' around the corners to compensate for the smooth floor surface. Oh god yes, this. Drifting purposely/skidding accidentally is one of the most rewarding things as a cat owner. The rear end in a top hat kitten we just got has plenty of long fur between his toes so traction is minimal. It makes for so much fun.
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Sep 14, 2013 09:36
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HelloSailorSign posted:Just as in people, genetics play a big component in oral health, as does diet. We're still determining if there's a nutrient balance that promotes dental health (related to pH, among other things). I've seen some cats with no dental care have nice teeth at 9 while another cat has to have full mouth extractions at 3. Pretty much what you said. The type of food they eat pretty much doesn't matter (dry vs wet) unless you're feeding them milk/sweetened yogurt/other stuff with a lot of sugar, and if you are why the gently caress are you doing it  But I'm sure you aren't. It really does seem to be almost all genetic for cats. In my case, it has some stuff to do with diet. All my indoor only cats have had absolutely no problems except some minor gingivitis, but the one cat I have that used to be feral and live outdoors for a few years, who ate gross street bugs and mystery items  has really, really bad tooth and gum problems. But that ties along with what I said before : if they're eating sugar and weird, gross stuff all the time likely that'll contribute to gum/teeth issues.Anyways if you're just feeding them cat food and not candy you're fine and don't blame yourself. I paid maybe $200 for his last cleaning, which I got because he was completely unable to eat dry food, but this literally happened over the course of two days: one day he was fine, the next day he wouldn't eat. He will likely need a tooth cleaning every year, along with regular brushings. I'm dreading if he needs his teeth removed  but I guess it'll be ok because he doesn't like dry food in general and loves wet food.Anywhoo, it is the most important thing to brush your cat's teeth at LEAST once a week. I know it's a pain in the rear end. Ask your vet and check the internet, theres a ton of tips on how to get them used to it, it generally starts with just rubbings gums with your finger, then introducing the paste, then finally introducing the brush. If they hate the brush it's ok to just give the paste, it's better than nothing. At my vet they have dental kits. In my experience, cats with gum problems actually like it because the gum rubbing makes them feel better. Thin Privilege fucked around with this message at 18:41 on Sep 14, 2013 |
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Sep 14, 2013 18:39
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Not a regular but here goes... I just wanted to encourage the thread to learn some form of small animal CPR. Today the 5 month old kitten we fostered and adopted has a seizure/or threw a clot and passed. I tried CPR but it was to no avail. It's a real bummer and I'm super duper sad, ya'll. CPR didn't help Lazer McCoy but it could help your kitty. Hug 'em extra tight tonight.
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Sep 15, 2013 01:28
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We have an older male cat (likely at least 10) who really likes to knead on my wife's stomach while she's laying down. When he does this, his tail lifts a bit (~45° below level) and his tail twitches a bit right at the base. The kneading I know is normal, but I haven't noticed the weird tail twitching in other cats. Another strange thing about him is that his butt sometimes sort of sticks out, as if something is pushing it from the inside. He's been to the vet several times since we got him in February, but none of them have said anything about that - is it just something that happens sometimes?
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Sep 15, 2013 02:51
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hooah posted:Another strange thing about him is that his butt sometimes sort of sticks out, as if something is pushing it from the inside. He's been to the vet several times since we got him in February, but none of them have said anything about that - is it just something that happens sometimes? Is it happening after he uses the litterbox? Toast's butt sometimes stuck out after taking a poo poo, but that was when he was a very small kitten and he apparently was a little constipated. It doesn't happen anymore now that he's bigger and on a better diet, and the vet said his butthole's fine. It might be something you want to talk to your vet specifically about, anyway.
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Sep 15, 2013 03:02
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aghastly posted:Is it happening after he uses the litterbox? Toast's butt sometimes stuck out after taking a poo poo, but that was when he was a very small kitten and he apparently was a little constipated. It doesn't happen anymore now that he's bigger and on a better diet, and the vet said his butthole's fine. It might be related to constipation. He might poop once a day. He's already on a urinary tract diet (which he doesn't care for that much), but I'll be sure to bring it up next time he goes in.
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Sep 15, 2013 03:28
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My cat throws a fit when he wants to go outside and I'm not sure how to respond. He meows loudly and rapidly, he jump-attacks the doorknob, paws at me, and if I ignore him he escalates to trying to knock pictures off the walls (since he knows it will get my attention). Somehow he finds the energy to keep this up for an hour(!) or more at a time, several times per day. It's annoying. He has lived with me for two years in a one bedroom apartment in the suburbs. He has exhibited this behavior the entire time we've been here. At night he will even make running leaps at the door, which is quite loud. He only lived outside this apartment for a few months as a stray kitten in the countryside (he's a rescue). He has lots of toys, I play with him regularly, and I even take him on walks outside on a leash since it helps him stay calm. I'm sure the walks encourage the behavior, since he knows outside exists and is fun. He is fixed. I do my best not to reward the behavior, but it just won't end. As I said, he's been at it for two solid years and shows no signs of stopping. He is my only cat. I have debated getting a second, but I am concerned about my allergies. (Yes, I am allergic to cats. I manage it with allergy medicine. I adopted him because his rear end was starving and covered in parasites when I found him, and because I love animals despite my allergies. I have owned cats before and knew what to expect.) At this point, I am debating letting him roam free outside. I know about indoor vs. outdoor cats, the risks, etc. I don't really want to let him, yet I worry I am torturing the poor guy if what he truly wants is to go outside. What do you think of the situation?
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Sep 15, 2013 07:23
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