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Slavvy posted:Then use an air blower gun shoved into the brake pipe hole to dislodge it using air pressure. Works a treat. Put a block of wood in the way first, it's a drat missile when it pops.
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Sep 11, 2013 04:07
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The best way I've found to remove stuck pistons is to leave it hooked to the car, hang it as low as possible, put a catch pan under it and just pump the brakes until it falls into the pan. If it's all frozen like that it's going to need to be cleaned and have new seals installed anyway (if it's not all corroded to hell) so there's really no point in trying to Rambo it back in. Even easier, order a new one from Autozone if it's a common car.
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Sep 11, 2013 04:10
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I have been happily surprised with Amazon's car parts offerings. Their sorting sucks, but use rock auto and cross reference part numbers
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Sep 11, 2013 07:00
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I almost exclusively get stuff from Amazon now--poo poo, most of it is available on Prime!
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Sep 11, 2013 08:07
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kastein posted:Looks like every >100k mile o2 sensor I have ever pulled. They all seize in and take the drat threads with them. The original that I pulled out of my Altima had about 140k on it. Hit it with a spritz of PB Blaster, waited 30 minutes, and it popped right out with surprisingly little effort. Not even half of a grunt. It was quite the  moment for me, I've never had one come out easy before.anonumos posted:Reflections can be a problem. The drama around the Museum Tower is all sorts of hosed up. So far the Nasher has closed one installation entirely (it was previously an indoor space designed by one artist, but entered only through the gardens - the artist considers the installation to have been destroyed - a bit more info on the installation here). The tower was also financed largely by the Dallas Police/Fire pension fund, and it's been largely a game of who can bully each other when it comes to acceptable compromises. I've been to the Nasher since Museum Tower went up - the glare is annoying, though it's not setting fire to storefronts (yet) or melting cars (yet) - they've had to move pretty much everything that's on paper into the basement though. Come to think of it, it's been over a year since I've been there. I'm off work today, I think I might wander out there at some point. randomidiot fucked around with this message at 11:03 on Sep 11, 2013 |
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Sep 11, 2013 08:47
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Geirskogul posted:I have been happily surprised with Amazon's car parts offerings. Their sorting sucks, but use rock auto and cross reference part numbers Advance, NAPA, O'Reiley, Rock, etc couldn't get the correct brake line for my car despite me giving the part number they said it didn't exist. Plugged it into Amazon and had it shipped to my door. Using them more and more often.
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Sep 11, 2013 14:26
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NitroSpazzz posted:Advance, NAPA, O'Reiley, Rock, etc couldn't get the correct brake line for my car despite me giving the part number they said it didn't exist. Plugged it into Amazon and had it shipped to my door. Using them more and more often. I like rockauto because it often has pictures of the actual product. So if there are a few revisions or weird year splits, you can look at the pictures and usually get the right part.
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Sep 11, 2013 16:21
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Bugdrvr posted:The best way I've found to remove stuck pistons is to leave it hooked to the car, hang it as low as possible, put a catch pan under it and just pump the brakes until it falls into the pan. It's off a 91 Civic RT4WD, and new ones are $50. I'd consider rebuilding it but I don't have the much in the way of tools at this point.
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Sep 11, 2013 20:19
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chrisgt posted:I like rockauto because it often has pictures of the actual product. So if there are a few revisions or weird year splits, you can look at the pictures and usually get the right part. For GMs (and probably other cars too) there's OEM parts sites with exploded diagrams. I'll check those for a hard to find part, then check Rock Auto, Amazon, and other places for the best deal.
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Sep 11, 2013 21:34
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Turn signals still work, it's good to drive https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-Fid6wTPBzU
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Sep 11, 2013 21:58
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toyodiy.com is a fantastic resource for finding genuine part numbers for practically every toyota/lexus ever made too
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Sep 11, 2013 22:31
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Ferremit posted:toyodiy.com is a fantastic resource for finding genuine part numbers for practically every toyota/lexus ever made too And RealOEM for BMW/Mini. They even have a VIN number search, which is awesome.
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Sep 11, 2013 22:34
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Astroman posted:For GMs (and probably other cars too) there's OEM parts sites with exploded diagrams. I'll check those for a hard to find part, then check Rock Auto, Amazon, and other places for the best deal. Got a link for GMs?
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Sep 11, 2013 22:39
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Sudo Echo posted:Turn signals still work, it's good to drive Description is inaccurate. I would not call that a car.
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Sep 11, 2013 22:59
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Sudo Echo posted:Turn signals still work, it's good to drive Considering it's still driving and even has working indicators and isn't all the over the place, i'd venture to say that's a horrible mechanical success.
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Sep 11, 2013 23:01
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When buying parts on Amazon, keep an eye out for parts being sold by Amazon Warehouse Deals in the used section. I guess parts get returned when people realize they have no idea what they're doing and Amazon resells them for really cheap. I got an ACDelco water pump for my truck for $8 and it didn't even look like it had been taken out of the box 
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Sep 11, 2013 23:50
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One of our generators bit the dust today: Not sure exactly what happened, but it involved some sort of intake/turbo fire.
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Sep 12, 2013 00:47
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Ferremit posted:toyodiy.com is a fantastic resource for finding genuine part numbers for practically every toyota/lexus ever made too I love toyodiy, its so much easier to just quote partnumbers and get what exactly you want. The other method is to tell the parts guy your vin, they realise its a grey import and they start acting like the car was built on the moon. But somehow ordering the same obscure bit of trim from the exact partnumber isnt a problem.
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Sep 12, 2013 01:03
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Well that can't be good.... Oh, hello there...  Does this explain the no-start condition?  Probably, yes. Clutch kit is on the way, gotta scavenge some new sensors.
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Sep 12, 2013 03:31
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zundfolge posted:One of our generators bit the dust today: What are these for? I don't know anything about stationary plant and I'm surprised a generator would have a turbo.
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Sep 12, 2013 03:44
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Slavvy posted:What are these for? I don't know anything about stationary plant and I'm surprised a generator would have a turbo. Generators are designed to (mostly) run at one RPM/a close RPM range, so it behooves you to design an engine that is at peak efficiency at that RPM and torque range. If the generator is stationary (and not something like a US Army mobile trailer generator) this means you can design and refine using things like turbochargers, as many engine designs (especially diesel) perform wonderfully with a turbo at a single RPM, making a lot of power for comparatively little fuel. The turbo can also assist with certain design challenges. For instance, generators deep underground need piped-in intake air and exhaust. Pressurizing an intake air tract so it doesn't interfere with a naturally aspirated engine (NA engines like to pull from still air, not low-pressure air like the tract would have after a very short time running) is a PITA, but less so with a turbo (simply more strain on the turbo/less output, but that can be designed around).
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Sep 12, 2013 03:50
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Even mobile Army generators (mostly John Deere prime movers) have turbos. Nearly all of Cat's commercial units have turbos. They aren't limited to just diesel, either. Most Army units must be able to run on JP-1 (or JP-2?)
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Sep 12, 2013 03:57
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TotalLossBrain posted:Even mobile Army generators (mostly John Deere prime movers) have turbos. Nearly all of Cat's commercial units have turbos. I only ever worked on the very tiny 3.5 and 15kw generators, and then only for two months or so. I wasn't actually trained in that MOS (I'm a 94A and now a 68W because 94A is obscure as gently caress) but I had to do something on drill weekends and during ADOS weeks to make extra money), and usually just worked on fuel line problems, because dem bitches always be clogged with poo poo. The large mobile, stationary FOB, and generator trucks do have turbos, though. I'm unsure on the small toolbox-sized ones.
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Sep 12, 2013 04:02
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Our ACE (Air Conditioning Equipment) and Ground Power Carts for JSTARS have turbochargers, its supposed to help make them more fuel efficient and give them a little bit of a power boost.
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Sep 12, 2013 04:05
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Geirskogul posted:I only ever worked on the very tiny 3.5 and 15kw generators, and then only for two months or so. I wasn't actually trained in that MOS (I'm a 94A and now a 68W because 94A is obscure as gently caress) but I had to do something on drill weekends and during ADOS weeks to make extra money), and usually just worked on fuel line problems, because dem bitches always be clogged with poo poo. My experience is limited to 60 kW and above TQG's (Tactical Quiet Generators, quite the contradiction with reality). The small ones - I think they go down to 3.5 kW - probably do not have turbos, but I can't say. From what I know of Cat generators, a wide kW range of generators will employ the same block, but have differently sized turbos and fuel curves. There is a new breed of generators that has the engine run at whatever the optimum speed is for the present electrical load - obviously this requires generator tech that is not locked to engine speed. They employ VFD's, obviously. Cat is pretty excited about it and has high hopes for those being quite efficient. Because let's face it, even the big 3 MW gensets run no higher than 39% efficient.
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Sep 12, 2013 04:15
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Slavvy posted:What are these for? I don't know anything about stationary plant and I'm surprised a generator would have a turbo. These (we've got 5) are part of the backup power plant for a large telephone central office. "Generator" understates it a bit-they're all powered by diesel V12s.  They're mostly used for emergencies, but since our equipment consumes so much power we'll sometimes fire them up on really hot days to ease the load on the grid. That was the plan today, but that was cut short after this one failed.
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Sep 12, 2013 04:26
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The trouble with detroit 12v149s is that it is difficult to find something to put them in 
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Sep 12, 2013 06:29
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zundfolge posted:One of our generators bit the dust today: Goddamn, that's impressive. We've got some generators at work that are powered by Cummins QSK60 diesels (as in, 60 liter 16cyl) and I wouldn't want to be around if one of those things decided to let go.
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Sep 12, 2013 06:39
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Slavvy posted:What are these for? I don't know anything about stationary plant and I'm surprised a generator would have a turbo. I was under the impression that most large diesel motors ran some sort of forced induction. Pretty sure all the motors in my dads old boat(100ft steel work boat,2x 1671 mains, 2 generators and 1 motor to run the hydraulics) had superchargers on them. Hell each main had 4 s/c's.
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Sep 12, 2013 06:50
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Boaz MacPhereson posted:Got a link for GMs? http://www.gmpartsdirect.com/ or google "gm oem parts" and a bunch of others come up. Click "browse catalog" at the bottom, put in make, model, and year and a list comes up of various systems (engine, brakes, body, etc). Then click on "available parts diagrams." They are a bit pricey, but I usually can find the parts elsewhere once I've gotten the real name and part number from them.
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Sep 12, 2013 15:31
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Astroman posted:http://www.gmpartsdirect.com/ or google "gm oem parts" and a bunch of others come up. Click "browse catalog" at the bottom, put in make, model, and year and a list comes up of various systems (engine, brakes, body, etc). Then click on "available parts diagrams." Use them for part numbers, but DO NOT ORDER FROM GMPARTSDIRECT. I ordered a crank bolt that was listed as in stock. They immediately charged my credit card and 2 weeks later it still hadn't shown up. After days of emailing I finally got an answer that it was out of stock and would be in next week. Next week comes and goes. It took another two weeks to get my money back out of them. Terrible customer service. Inaccurate parts management system (or they are lying). Shady practices (you don't charge a card for something that was ordered until it ships - this is a tenant of merchant card agreements).
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Sep 12, 2013 15:48
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Same exact story (well, worse! They updated me until they realized it wasn't on their shelf, then ceased all communications and wouldn't answer the phone) with factorychryslerparts.com. Use em as a database, never ever EVER give them money. I was very reasonable, gave them a few weeks before bugging them, then a few months, then called up again, left a message saying I was through dealing with them, and sicced my bank on them. Charge reversed.
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Sep 12, 2013 15:51
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Negromancer posted:I was under the impression that most large diesel motors ran some sort of forced induction. Pretty sure all the motors in my dads old boat(100ft steel work boat,2x 1671 mains, 2 generators and 1 motor to run the hydraulics) had superchargers on them. Hell each main had 4 s/c's. Most really large diesels (ships, trains, etc.) are two-stroke diesels which actually require forced induction to function. The Detroit 71 series we've all seen (or more likely heard) in older trucks and buses is as well. You'll often see these twincharged, where the blower provides the base pressure to run the engine and the turbo(s) provide what's considered to be the boost.
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Sep 12, 2013 16:05
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Astroman posted:http://www.gmpartsdirect.com/ or google "gm oem parts" and a bunch of others come up. Click "browse catalog" at the bottom, put in make, model, and year and a list comes up of various systems (engine, brakes, body, etc). Then click on "available parts diagrams." Badass. Thank you. Also, thanks for the heads-up, Motronic. Edit: ...and they only go back to 1980. Off to the Google-machine I go! Edit, the second: Looks like everyone only goes back to 1980. Looks like I'll just have to wait until my FSMs get here. Boaz MacPhereson fucked around with this message at 18:34 on Sep 12, 2013 |
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Sep 12, 2013 18:20
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Yeah, the diagrams are great for my 99 Caddy. The 65, not so much. For that it's the FSM, google, classic car forums and guesswork. Which sucks for things that might not be available under "Cadillac" in somebody's catalog but the exact same part was used on am Impala or something and is very common.
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Sep 12, 2013 19:24
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Dear PO, why did you wire the tail lights to the foglights, the brake lights to the tail lights, and the foglights to the brake lights?
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Sep 12, 2013 20:39
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InitialDave posted:Dear PO, why did you wire the tail lights to the foglights, the brake lights to the tail lights, and the foglights to the brake lights? Is this the Rover? It probably came from the factory like that. 
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Sep 12, 2013 21:06
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jammyozzy posted:Is this the Rover? It probably came from the factory like that.
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Sep 12, 2013 21:23
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Sep 12, 2013 21:33
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InitialDave posted:Dear PO, why did you wire the tail lights to the foglights, the brake lights to the tail lights, and the foglights to the brake lights? So...wait. Either everything comes on at once or nothing ever works, right? Do the brake lights come on when you turn on the fogs? Do the fogs come on when you hit the brakes with the fogs turned off? Do the tails only work when the brakes are on?  ^^^ Holy gently caress. 
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Sep 12, 2013 21:34
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