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Why aren't you going to a local muffler shop and having them make a quiet axle-back for you?
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Sep 15, 2013 20:42
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For Jamal or CT. How important is a crushable steering-wheel hub for rally/motorsport? I plan on running an NRG short hub and quick release, as it is the least expensive yet still good quality unit; unlike their steering wheels. I've heard that in the case of a serious front end impact, it's good to have a crushable hub, though it does push the steering wheel out further. What are your guys thoughts?
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Sep 16, 2013 05:22
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OK so my torque-binding issue hasn't gone away, and actually seems to have worsened over the last month or so. I really don't have the money for any form of major repairs right now, so I'm basically stuck dealing with it. What sort of severe issues can I look forward to from this? Is it going to cause my drivetrain to seize up, start slipping, etc.?
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Sep 16, 2013 05:50
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MrZig posted:For Jamal or CT. How important is a crushable steering-wheel hub for rally/motorsport? It's a good idea.... but let me put it this way - IF your torso hits the steering wheel with enough force that a crushable wheel comes into play, what with the fact you should be belted securly in with harnesses that dont stretch much and you have a collapsable steering column then you are already having a crash that is very likely at best to put you in hospital for a while. Frankly the only two senarios I've seen where a steering wheel gets bent is where a driver's arms go terror stiff and the they hang on for dear life or they are scraped out with a spoon through the rear doors. (I'd still do a crushable steering wheel but for other reasons in getting the driver back a bit further thence better COG)
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Sep 16, 2013 06:06
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kylej posted:Why aren't you going to a local muffler shop and having them make a quiet axle-back for you? 
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Sep 16, 2013 16:11
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Is there any reason not to buy a 1997 legacy gt sedan with recent timing belt/water pump for 2400? Hes asking 2600. He said the only issues he knows of are a rear window that won't roll down and the sunroof only works intermittently. I always liked these cars. I have been checking CL regularly for a forrester/impreza/obs/legacy for a while now and this looks good. Anything to inspect/ check for during test drive? Can performance suspension components be had? I imagine shocks and springs will be in order if I buy it. Body and interior look above average for a 16 year car.
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Sep 16, 2013 17:41
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About the worst that will happen is you will lose a few HP up top. Generally speaking, a mod that is more restrictive or will result in less horsepower (short of a turbo or injectors) is ok to put on because the resultant airflow numbers will still be well within the maps in the ecu. It's when you go outside of them, like putting an intake and downpipe on a car and not tuning it, that bad things will happen because you will be completely off the edge of what the ecu is expecting to see.
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Sep 16, 2013 17:44
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jamal posted:About the worst that will happen is you will lose a few HP up top. Generally speaking, a mod that is more restrictive or will result in less horsepower (short of a turbo or injectors) is ok to put on because the resultant airflow numbers will still be well within the maps in the ecu. It's when you go outside of them, like putting an intake and downpipe on a car and not tuning it, that bad things will happen because you will be completely off the edge of what the ecu is expecting to see.
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Sep 16, 2013 17:48
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THE BLACK NINJA posted:Is there any reason not to buy a 1997 legacy gt sedan with recent timing belt/water pump for 2400? Hes asking 2600. He said the only issues he knows of are a rear window that won't roll down and the sunroof only works intermittently. I always liked these cars. I have been checking CL regularly for a forrester/impreza/obs/legacy for a while now and this looks good. Anything to inspect/ check for during test drive? Can performance suspension components be had? I imagine shocks and springs will be in order if I buy it. Body and interior look above average for a 16 year car. Seems pricey. What area do you live in? Having just had the belt done is at 200k? 100k? Look for rust in the rear quarter, oil pan, rear subframe. Suspension frequently goes in older subarus. Is it the 2.2 or 2.5? If it's the 2.5, ask when the head gasket was done...cause if the car is at 200k, it undoubtedly has been. If it's a 97 with 100k miles, the price is pretty decent. If it's 200k, that's horrible. I wouldn't pay over 1200 for a car with everything working. Do you have a link?
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Sep 16, 2013 18:39
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Thanks for the advice, I'm really not good at car buying / selling. Car is at 167k miles, guy doesnt know when rhe headgaket was done (or if) but says hes never seen it over heat. Here is a link (I hope): http://denver.craigslist.org/cto/4067327168.html As you can see, I'm in the Denver area. All subarus out here are higher than blue book. Unfortunately I've been watching this market for long enough to know I just have to bend over and take it. I want to bring 2400 dollars, and offer 2k. This will be my commuter vehicle.
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Sep 16, 2013 18:46
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Yeah, welcome to the climates where a Subaru that runs never drops below $3k asking. I would inspect the engine, trans, and rear diff for leaks. They should be visible if they're present. If there's leaking on the sides of the motor, I'd walk away for the price. It could be the valve covers, which is reasonably easy/cheap to fix, but it could be the headgaskets - which is not. If you can't tell the difference, better to err on the side of caution there. Look for check engine lights, look at the sunroof for any signs of rust/leaking (common), look around the rockers, quarter panels, and windshield for signs of rust also. Test the clutch, if it's going, it'll run you the $400 you want to hold out on him to get it done.
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Sep 16, 2013 18:49
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If there's any part of the head gasket that protrudes (I don't know if there is), you can tell if it's done because the new revised gasket is 3 layers (so you'll see a little sandwich of 3 thin sheets of metal). Edit: At 167k the head gaskets would've gone already and been replaced. I think it'd be pretty unlikely for the old design to hold out this long. Jared592 fucked around with this message at 19:01 on Sep 16, 2013 |
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Sep 16, 2013 18:54
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Dunno, my dad had a 99 2.5GT that he sold in 2011 with the original headgaskets still, and had never leaked. It's uncommon but not unheard of.
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Sep 16, 2013 19:07
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si posted:Dunno, my dad had a 99 2.5GT that he sold in 2011 with the original headgaskets still, and had never leaked. It's uncommon but not unheard of. I guess it might be a new england thing. I've never seen one of the EJ25's hit 200k without needing them. Sometimes they leak the lucky way and you just get an outside leak with coolant intact. Sometimes, you're not so lucky.
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Sep 16, 2013 19:09
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Thanks guys. I'll check for leaks and such. Overall I won't be too sad if I have to put a bit of money into it. Like si said, it's a poo poo market for buyers.
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Sep 16, 2013 19:17
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We recently sold my wife's 99 Forrester with 130K miles and timing belt done for $2500 in a day in the Denver market. It was the S model with heated seats but both rear panels were dented and the kicker was it had a nasty oil leak which my mechanic thought was the rear seal. It had been sitting for a while so the net result was a smoke cloud out of the engine compartment after the test drive. Dude didn't flinch after I told him 2500 was the lowest price we could do.
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Sep 16, 2013 20:10
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^^ damnit I came for motivation! I just want to buy something before winter, and in tears past I've watched Subaru prices start creeping up this time of year. My current car doesn't stand a chance where I live. Hopefully the car isn't rusty, leaking, or overheating because if it passes those I think I'm just going to do it. Oh and I guess emissions.
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Sep 16, 2013 20:58
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Fifty Three posted:Alright, that makes sense. This is all new to me and I'm just trying to piece together what happened to cause the overboost in the first place. Could have been issues with the previous tune or creep. Boost creep is when the wastegate can't flow enough exhaust gas to keep the boost at a set level, and is somewhat common with internal wastegates and a really free-flowing exhaust. That's why there are now so many up-pipes available to keep the stock turbo but use an external wastegate. So in that regard a quieter exhaust that doesn't flow quite as freely can also help.
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Sep 16, 2013 21:35
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THE BLACK NINJA posted:^^ damnit I came for motivation! I just want to buy something before winter, and in tears past I've watched Subaru prices start creeping up this time of year. My current car doesn't stand a chance where I live. Hopefully the car isn't rusty, leaking, or overheating because if it passes those I think I'm just going to do it. Oh and I guess emissions. E: From what I saw selling ours the manual is probably the only reason that car isn't sold already. Even a car salesman told us to sell ours private party when we bought a new car saying "a Subaru with the timing belt done and under $4000 sells in a weekend here" Sten Freak fucked around with this message at 22:12 on Sep 16, 2013 |
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Sep 16, 2013 22:10
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So I've had my 03 TS for a little while and it usually gets parked on an uphill or level surface, which is fine. Lately I've been parking it downhill, and if I park it facing downhill and then come back to the car the next morning, the clutch pedal is super soft and offers virtually no resistance. It goes back to 'normal' after a few minutes of driving, and it seems to engage and disengage fine when I shift by bashing the pedal to the floor, but it's awkward when I'm trying to pull out of my spot and it's probably not great for the car. I'm guessing that something in the hydraulics is leaking and parking it facing downhill pushes a bunch of fluid pressure into the system by way of gravity so it has a lot more hydraulic advantage when I first push the clutch in. It has been occasionally hard to get into first when stopped, so I'm thinking maybe the clutch slave is the one at fault. Has anyone had this weird problem before? The brake fluid in the clutch master is at the full line when the car is parked level so whatever it is, isn't obviously leaking fluid.
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Sep 17, 2013 00:29
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Well, that was an easy diagnosis. Walked out to the parking lot to leave work, clutch felt soft, gave it a few pumps and then shut the car off. Clutch master is completely dry. I'll try filling it up and doing a mityvac bleed but I'm guessing the master and slave have packed it in and I'm pushing air. Seat Safety Switch fucked around with this message at 01:14 on Sep 17, 2013 |
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Sep 17, 2013 01:09
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Last winter my 2005 Saab 9-2x Aero was unfortunate enough to develop some severe rod knock and it has basically been parked since then. It is getting to the point in the year where I need to seriously consider fixing this car since I don't really want to drive my Miata through the northeast Ohio winters on my commute to work. Unfortunately since have waited for so long I think I only have enough time to basically drop in another working engine rather than rebuild this one. I really don't want to be working on the car once it's around freezing as I don't have a heated garage to work in. I checked out ebay to see what an EJ205 would cost and it seems my options are limited to fairly high mileage USDM EJ205s or a lot of cheap lower mileage JDM EJ205s. After a little research it appears that the JDM EJ205 is a little different in that it has higher stock compression (9.0 vs 8.5) and AVCS. Supposedly it'll bolt right in and run off the stock US ECU (sans AVCS) but I would need to tune it myself, which is something I have very little experience with although it's not something I am too afraid of. It actually kind of appeals to me but I will be daily driving that car at least part of the year. This choice is tempting however it would entail some more work, but I don't think I know enough about it be sure of exactly how much. Or I could just keep looking for a lower mileage USDM EJ205 for a good price and just swap it in one weekend and be done with it. Time is running out, however. Is there anyone with any familiarity with this sort of thing who might be able to give some advice/information?
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Sep 17, 2013 03:03
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The most common approach would probably be to get the EJ257 shortblock and pair it with your stock heads. This is a fairly common hybrid setup. It would, of course, require tuning - but you don't have to deal with the AVCS. I wasn't even aware there was a japanese EJ205, I thought they all used the EJ207. I do know you can get an aftermarket AVCS controller and wire it up if you want to use those heads.
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Sep 17, 2013 03:18
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si posted:The most common approach would probably be to get the EJ257 shortblock and pair it with your stock heads. This is a fairly common hybrid setup. It would, of course, require tuning - but you don't have to deal with the AVCS. https://docs.google.com/spreadsheet/pub?key=0AiCNWWmj2aawdDEyNlBBZ0hjUEdqcVViMTRELVNRTHc&single=true&gid=0&output=html
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Sep 17, 2013 03:22
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If you're going to have to tune anyways why not just get a complete EJ20k (or EJ20G setup with coilpack mod)?
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Sep 17, 2013 03:25
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Cheap isn't an option in any direction. I'd say you can cut almost all of that out though. You really only need the shortblock, engine gasket kit, timing components, clutch, and flywheel resurface. Doing the heads is maybe a good idea if you aren't sure? All the rest is really just nice to do though. Edit: ^ Why would anyone want to put an EJ20K or EJ20G into their car? Nothing in the US ever had them, so you're just setting yourself up for failure.
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Sep 17, 2013 03:28
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si posted:Cheap isn't an option in any direction. I'd say you can cut almost all of that out though. You really only need the shortblock, engine gasket kit, timing components, clutch, and flywheel resurface. Doing the heads is maybe a good idea if you aren't sure? All the rest is really just nice to do though. It can be done cheaper, but why go through all that trouble just to have leaky heads?
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Sep 17, 2013 03:29
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si posted:Edit: ^ Why would anyone want to put an EJ20K or EJ20G into their car? Nothing in the US ever had them, so you're just setting yourself up for failure. Because you're tuning anyways with mismatched heads and they're more powerful (I thought?).
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Sep 17, 2013 03:37
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daslog posted:It can be done cheaper, but why go through all that trouble just to have leaky heads? Sure, I meant mostly the turbo, exhaust, group N mounts, etc. He can keep with all the stock stuff there just fine. If the heads need doing, then definitely do them. VelociBacon posted:Because you're tuning anyways with mismatched heads and they're more powerful (I thought?). But at that point the EJ207 or EJ257 are both better bets, and modern.
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Sep 17, 2013 04:04
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http://losangeles.craigslist.org/wst/cto/4069735264.html Someone stop me.
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Sep 17, 2013 04:51
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blk posted:http://losangeles.craigslist.org/wst/cto/4069735264.html Get it leaked down. If it passes, don't stop. Unless you can find a non-limited, because I don't like the leather in these.
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Sep 17, 2013 04:56
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THE BLACK NINJA posted:Thanks guys. I'll check for leaks and such. Overall I won't be too sad if I have to put a bit of money into it. Like si said, it's a poo poo market for buyers. This is what it was like for me for a few years. I then found the exact car I wanted, but it was quite pricey from a dealer. It did have every thing fixed and maintained by Subaru specialists, though, but I waited to long it it sold. Six months later I found another that was pretty much what I wanted but would need stuff fixed. I probably paid $500 to $1000 more than the advice given here, but after looking and watching the market in my area it was the best I could do for what I wanted. I just don't have the experience and negotiating skills to do better. Two and a half years later I'm working through the issues needing fixed but have been really happy to finally have the car I've always wanted rather than pay less for something I hope gets smashed by a tree so I can get my insurance claim...
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Sep 17, 2013 07:56
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blk posted:http://losangeles.craigslist.org/wst/cto/4069735264.html Dont look at me, I'd be getting the money out of the bank.
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Sep 17, 2013 11:42
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The radiator on my '02 WRX went with 91K on the odo. Mishimoto is the way to go, right? Everything on Rockauto looks like it's made for automatic transmission or for after 9/2002.
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Sep 17, 2013 12:30
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Neptr posted:The radiator on my '02 WRX went with 91K on the odo. Mishimoto is the way to go, right? Everything on Rockauto looks like it's made for automatic transmission or for after 9/2002. Most aftermarket contain tranny fluid ports, but they come plugged. You can use them in manual cars.
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Sep 17, 2013 13:26
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BatDan posted:Last winter my 2005 Saab 9-2x Aero was unfortunate enough to develop some severe rod knock and it has basically been parked since then. It is getting to the point in the year where I need to seriously consider fixing this car since I don't really want to drive my Miata through the northeast Ohio winters on my commute to work. Cheapest options are going to be to stick with another 205 and slam it in. Dealer shortblocks are 2100, used stuff is cheaper. A 25 hybrid you have to have the heads CNC'd and replace the pistons which is extra work, money, and down time you probably don't want. EJ207 is expensive if you just want to get it going again. Kids up here search around for used 205 blocks short or long and drop them in. I've also read around and seen one in person of EJ22E bottom ends that take fantastically to boost.
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Sep 17, 2013 14:16
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blk posted:http://losangeles.craigslist.org/wst/cto/4069735264.html Have the turbo checked and find out if it's the original. Find out of the throw out bearing has been replaced. Both of these things were known to fail spectacularly around 50-60k on the 2005s.
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Sep 17, 2013 14:20
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Well that legacy wasn't good enough. It had a busted rear end windshield which would probably have been ok except that the part where it meets the roof was so rusted under the weather strip that I'm not even sure a new windshield could be installed. That and the tranny was crap. Alas, the search continues 
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Sep 17, 2013 15:19
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If you live near Boston, this guys is selling a WRX engine. http://boston.craigslist.org/gbs/pts/4069342178.html
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Sep 17, 2013 16:21
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si posted:Have the turbo checked and find out if it's the original. Yeah, part of me is wondering if it's a nightmare waiting to happen, and if it'd be worth it considering that I already have the Saabaru. I'm guessing it would be close, but never quite as fun to drive, with a lot more hassles.
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Sep 17, 2013 17:40
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