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MrFurious posted:Ask the organizer of the class, but in the case of our classes, that means that if they should have had their first round of shots, they must bring proof that they had that first round. As the puppies continue to come to class, they must continue to provide proof that they are maintaining the vaccination schedule so as not to be at increased risk of infection. Great, thanks for the input 
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Sep 18, 2013 01:58
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Just wanted to run something past everyone here. Our puppy is great on spending the entire night in her crate. In fact around 9:50 every night she will voluntarily get into the crate. Our problem is roughly 7:30 AM every morning she starts to whine. This is generally when I get up for work so usually I don't mind however it does spill over to the weekends which means we cannot sleep in. Now normally I just assume that her bladder is full and that's her queue to go out. We get up but take a little time to go to her crate in an attempt to disassociate her whining for us getting up. I thought we had avoided that however this morning I woke up to take her out and tried to take her to the side of the house (She never pees there but we're trying to get her to do it as it's fenced in. We want to let her out on her own during the winter to do her business off leash.) She ended up just walking around and sniffing for 10 minutes. Finally I got cold and walked her over to the lawn and she peed. My questions are: 1. How can we prevent her from whining in the morning? We generally take her out to pee and if we want to go back to sleep we will put her back in the crate. She still whimpers so I'm probably going to give her a frozen toy or something to occupy her time. I want to be able to sleep in until 9 damnit  2. Any tips on getting her to evacuate in a new area? Or do we just have to wait it out and treat her profusely when it happens.
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Sep 18, 2013 14:31
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m.hache posted:1. How can we prevent her from whining in the morning? We generally take her out to pee and if we want to go back to sleep we will put her back in the crate. She still whimpers so I'm probably going to give her a frozen toy or something to occupy her time. I want to be able to sleep in until 9 damnit 1: Decouple time from the morning routine. Don't let her out when she's whining, wait for at least 10 seconds of silence first - if you can't get that, shape it by breaking down into smaller steps. If you typically feed immediately after letting her out, stop. Wait 20 minutes or so and go about your business. You can also put a shroud over the crate to keep it dark, I had a lot of success with this personally. Lastly, you wait. Puppies are assholes and they do get better as they age. Some of this is likely to improve just as your dog ages, but we're talking years here, not weeks. 2: The latter. She's got an area or texture preference that you're fighting. You'll see the same trend as an extinction burst with an unwanted behavior. She'll get frustrated that she can't get to where she wants but will eventually give up and go because biological function demands it. Just wait it out. The first few times may take a very long time, but it will improve from then on out.
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Sep 18, 2013 15:14
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1) Don't think of the puppy as a obstacle to your sleeping in. Think of her as inspiration to wake up earlier. She's whining because it's a beautiful new day, full of things to smell and experience and she's anxious to get started and to hang out with you. Puppies don't stay in this stage for very long, soon enough she'll be sleeping longer and used to the drudgery of everyday life. Take this limited opportunity to learn from your puppy and enjoy what it's like to wake up every day happy and excited. If she's waiting until 7:30 am to start whining, most people would consider that a dream puppy, she's telling you it's to get out of bed. 2) My dog has not peed on a person's leg in over a month but I'll still refrain from giving any advice in that department.
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Sep 18, 2013 15:23
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How often should I be walking my 8-9 wk old Black Lab pup? Right now I'm taking her out on like four 30-minute walks throughout the day and she just keeps truckin', but I just googled some site that says I should be walking her for five minutes or something so I don't gently caress up her hips. That seems.... conservative.... to say the least. I don't want to gently caress up her hips, of course, but I don't really know what a good amount is. Should I be letting her decide? Because if she's deciding then I'll literally never stop walking.
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Sep 18, 2013 16:19
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Martytoof posted:How often should I be walking my 8-9 wk old Black Lab pup? Right now I'm taking her out on like four 30-minute walks throughout the day and she just keeps truckin', but I just googled some site that says I should be walking her for five minutes or something so I don't gently caress up her hips. That seems.... conservative.... to say the least. My pup is a black lab. She has so much energy it can be frustrating at times. We find that a 20 minute walk outside just get's her started so we go inside and try to tire her out mentally. Either a quick training bout or some tug o war. Eventually she will curl up and sleep for an hour and then we can repeat the process over again. She loves to stomp stuffless toys with squeakers in them.
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Sep 18, 2013 16:35
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Yeah, I took this first week off and my routine has been something like Wake up at 7, take her out for a 10-15 minute short walk (half a mile, .8 km), feed her, let her dick around with our older dog until he gets fed up, then let her doodle around outside in the garden for another 10-15 minutes just exploring and running around. At this point I get her to kennel, which she whines about for a few seconds but promptly curls up and falls asleep for an hour or two. Repeat this about four times a day, minus the excess feeding, until about 7-8pm when she is put in her kennel next to the bed for the night. The walks range anywhere from the aforementioned half a mile to anywhere up to 1.2 miles (2km) depending on how active she's being. She'll whine on leash every now and then but it tends to be because she found this amazing clump of grass that is TOTALLY different from every other clump of grass that she HAS to go sniff and to hell with your walking routine just lemme sniff it!! -- but I haven't noticed her be uncomfortable while walking yet. I don't think I'm OVER exercising her, but I can't claim to know what's a good healthy and safe amount of running around for a dog her age. I'm going to be dropping her off at doggy daycare next week hopefully, so that'll kind of mess up her routine but it'll also tucker her out. some kinda jackal fucked around with this message at 16:43 on Sep 18, 2013 |
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Sep 18, 2013 16:40
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Walking in general does precisely nada toward a dog's physical stimulation needs. Dogs need 30 min of heart-pounding exercise, which walks don't really provide. If you're looking to burn that energy, ball throwing, tug, zoomies are all going to be better options since dogs have twice the cardiac output potential of an olympic athlete. Walks are great for novelty, practicing behavior in distracting locations, and getting to interact with the larger world, but I never count it toward a dog's daily exercise.
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Sep 18, 2013 16:49
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Martytoof posted:Yeah, I took this first week off and my routine has been something like It sounds like she's got it pretty sweet. I think they generally tell people to not go jogging for long periods with the dog until they developed a little more so the walks should be fine. If you don't tire out the pup yourself they will do it via zoomies which to me sounds worse off than a walk.
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Sep 18, 2013 16:49
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Brand new dog owner here, trying to get through the trials and tribulations of a 8 week old Groenendael pup called Faro: I've did my homework and followed the advice in this thread, we've gotten her for about four days now. A little snap of our setup:  Two questions so far: We got her to use the pads for 80% of the time, but she still doesn't really 'go' outside. You can't really reward her doing her thing outside if she doesn't at all :p We do the walks at a fixed schedule during the day. My first question is thus: Do keep this routine and just wait for her to start doing her thing outside. Or, do we stay outside during walks until she really has to do her thing? Second question is also about the walks. Walking works relatively fine so far, but occasionally with me she will plant her rear end down and refuse to budge at seemingly random moments, just staring at me. I'm not really sure what to do in that situation; do I just stride on while dragging her along and ignore her obstructionism, do I do tugs until she snaps out of it and start moving? At the moment I resorted to standing next to her, with the leash limp, and look around as if standing still was my idea all along. When she starts moving, I give her some sideways tugs to redirect her attention.
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Sep 18, 2013 16:56
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ButWhatIf posted:Walking in general does precisely nada toward a dog's physical stimulation needs. Dogs need 30 min of heart-pounding exercise, which walks don't really provide. If you're looking to burn that energy, ball throwing, tug, zoomies are all going to be better options since dogs have twice the cardiac output potential of an olympic athlete. Walks are great for novelty, practicing behavior in distracting locations, and getting to interact with the larger world, but I never count it toward a dog's daily exercise. 30 minutes total? I definitely give her more than 30 minutes worth of crazy activity in the back yard aside from walking, but it's good to know that this might be a better way to tire her out than walking in general. I'm just so used to my older dogs where a 10 minute walk and he's out like a light 
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Sep 18, 2013 17:00
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ButWhatIf posted:Walking in general does precisely nada toward a dog's physical stimulation needs. Dogs need 30 min of heart-pounding exercise, which walks don't really provide. If you're looking to burn that energy, ball throwing, tug, zoomies are all going to be better options since dogs have twice the cardiac output potential of an olympic athlete. Walks are great for novelty, practicing behavior in distracting locations, and getting to interact with the larger world, but I never count it toward a dog's daily exercise. Which is great if we're talking about a mature dog. For a young pup, meandering walks where the dog can sniff, or training walks where you work on leash manners and other behaviours are great. I'd probably make walks 20-30 minutes in the hopes of tiring out a puppy, but I'd let the puppy set the pace and provide some breaks in action.
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Sep 18, 2013 17:02
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Beef posted:My first question is thus: Do keep this routine and just wait for her to start doing her thing outside. Or, do we stay outside during walks until she really has to do her thing? Why are you using pads? Are you planning to be leaving her on her own for 8 hours a day while you're at work? In general, you just need to wait her out and then reward. Wait doesn't mean 10 minutes or until you get bored, it means WAIT INDEFINITELY. Regarding walks, don't force her forward and don't drag her. At best you'll make her hate walks and at worst you'll actually hurt her. Best course of action depends on why she actually stopped. Is she tired? Are you asking too much of her too soon? Is she worried about something nearby? Another dog? A lightpost or other object? If she's tired, it's fair for her to stop and you need to re-evaluate your exercise plan for her. Puppies need little bits throughout the day, not marathon sessions. If she's concerned about an object, you need to apply CC & DS protocols to make that thing okay.
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Sep 18, 2013 17:19
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Beef posted:Brand new dog owner here, trying to get through the trials and tribulations of a 8 week old Groenendael pup called Faro: Never stop posting, so that I may live vicariously through you.  I've been fawning over/researching Groens for the past few months. I haven't yet decided if I'll get a Groen puppy or go for a shelter puppy yet. It'll be a year or so before I'm ready for another dog, though. So in the meantime I'll just watch your puppy grow up.
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Sep 18, 2013 18:09
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m.hache posted:Just wanted to run something past everyone here. Our puppy is great on spending the entire night in her crate. In fact around 9:50 every night she will voluntarily get into the crate. Our problem is roughly 7:30 AM every morning she starts to whine. This is generally when I get up for work so usually I don't mind however it does spill over to the weekends which means we cannot sleep in. She might have to pee but is being a fussy princess about where she wants to pee. Are you able to go back to sleep after you've taken her out? I don't know if this is good advice, but you could try waking up before she starts whining, take her for a quick walk and then go back to bed. Ideally the whining would stop because she doesn't have to pee. Less ideally the whining would stop eventually because you'd stop reinforcing the behavior because you know she doesn't have to pee. Then again, I'm the person who gave up on making my dog pee in the yard because he out waited me to the point where I started worrying about when I was going to have to take him to the E-Vet.
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Sep 18, 2013 18:09
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Dogdoo 8 posted:She might have to pee but is being a fussy princess about where she wants to pee. Are you able to go back to sleep after you've taken her out? I don't know if this is good advice, but you could try waking up before she starts whining, take her for a quick walk and then go back to bed. Ideally the whining would stop because she doesn't have to pee. Less ideally the whining would stop eventually because you'd stop reinforcing the behavior because you know she doesn't have to pee. I doubt she will be that stubborn honestly. The problem may very well fix itself once it snows. Then the preferred texture is everywhere (no more grass to wizz on). Once she is calm enough and can be trusted outside of her crate we intend on giving her free roam of the house during the night. Currently though we are working on her learning when to jump up on things or not. She doesn't understand that me laying in bed is not a queue for "HOLY poo poo JUMP ON THE COVERED PERSON". One day at a time.
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Sep 18, 2013 18:20
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MrFurious posted:Why are you using pads? Are you planning to be leaving her on her own for 8 hours a day while you're at work? We live in an apartment, so it's not as trivial to quickly jump outside while she's in the middle of squeezing one out. MrFurious posted:In general, you just need to wait her out and then reward. Wait doesn't mean 10 minutes or until you get bored, it means WAIT INDEFINITELY. I'll definitely do this tonight, last time she lasted 20 minutes and just started peeing after the walk :p MrFurious posted:Regarding walks, don't force her forward and don't drag her. At best you'll make her hate walks and at worst you'll actually hurt her. Best course of action depends on why she actually stopped. Is she tired? Are you asking too much of her too soon? Is she worried about something nearby? Another dog? A lightpost or other object? If she's tired, it's fair for her to stop and you need to re-evaluate your exercise plan for her. Puppies need little bits throughout the day, not marathon sessions. If she's concerned about an object, you need to apply CC & DS protocols to make that thing okay. Skizzles posted:Never stop posting, so that I may live vicariously through you. My posting doesn't have breaks. I first got interested in them out of national pride, as I basically live five minutes away from Groenendael, but I do love their looks and intelligence. It's like a calm version of a malinois or tervuren (I'm actually from tervuren...), not to mention black is just way cooler  .Here's some pictures from where we got her:   The shedding large dog is about as large as male Groenendaels get, the adult female is the mom and is about as small as Groenendaels get. And that's Faro at 4 weeks: 
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Sep 18, 2013 19:28
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Beef posted:It's like a calm version of a malinois or tervuren (I'm actually from tervuren...), not to mention black is just way cooler  Groenendaels, Tervurens, Malinois and Laekenois are all considered the same breed. There really should be no variation in their temperaments. The variety is probably more attributable to the lines from which the dogs come.
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Sep 18, 2013 19:34
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Beef posted:We live in an apartment, so it's not as trivial to quickly jump outside while she's in the middle of squeezing one out. Is this a high-rise? I mean do you have to take like 6 flights of stairs or an elevator? I house trained our puppy on the second floor of our apartment when we first got her. I just don't like pads if you can avoid them because I don't want to reinforce eliminating indoors at all if I can help it. Good luck and check back in if you need more help. Be very careful with that doggy daycare, too. I'm not sure I know of any place that would take a puppy that young, but I could be wrong and I hope it's all great.
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Sep 18, 2013 19:41
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You are probably right about the pads. We just spent an hour outside in the rain at night waiting for her to finally do her thing, it was almost 2 hours since her last pee too. When finally went inside, miserable and wet, she did her pee on the pads. Tomorrow, no more pads and we're taking the pads outside. Goddamn. Ah, that picture isn't a doggy daycare. It is from the day we went to fetch her from the breeder. The other dogs in the picture are her family and the breeder's other dogs.
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Sep 18, 2013 21:21
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^^^ I think he was talking to Martytoof. It confused me too.a life less posted:
And for a little fun fact to expand on this, Canada is better about acknowledging this. In Canada all Belgian shepherds can interbreed, whereas here in America only a Groen can be bred to a Groen to get Groen puppies. The bigger gene pool is also why the Canadian Belgians have a better chance in the health department. So I might go for a Canadian Belgian, since I have no real interest in registration/showing/breeding. Martytoof, I used to work doggie daycare and I really don't recommend it from a behavioral standpoint. It's tied with dog parks in the "worst place to socialize your puppy" area. Even if your aim is to just tucker her out, there's a lot of risk. Some people think that just because their dog likes other dogs means it'll enjoy being stuck in a room with 10-20 dogs. Nope. Many of the dogs I had were overwhelmed or terrified in large groups. They would do great with one or two dogs, but once more came in they just sat in a corner uncomfortable. I saw a few puppies get ruined as well. Some of the dogs played very rough, and especially liked to pick on the small/shy ones. These puppies learned that other dogs weren't so great and would be MUCH more quick to lash out during play, because that's the only thing that (sometimes) got the "I'm uncomfortable with this" message across. Daycare attendants are typically just some bored minimum wage high schooler, and I saw many bad manners unknowingly reinforced (jumping, mouthing, etc.). Some daycares will even use squirt bottles as punishment, which is really not recommended. If we had removed every dog that I saw was uncomfortable in daycare we'd have lost half our business, so I couldn't say anything unless it was actually a dangerous situation. If you can find a daycare that separates dogs into VERY small groups based on play style, that will be your best bet. Otherwise I would just hire a petsitter or dog walker. Sorry for the wall of text, I get very huffy about daycare after working in them and seeing how frustrating they are.
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Sep 18, 2013 21:32
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Skizzles posted:^^^ I think he was talking to Martytoof. It confused me too. You are correct, not sure how I goofed that up. The daycare comment was for Martytoof.
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Sep 18, 2013 21:45
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I'm just going to try the daycare thing out. My last puppy was a golden who absolutely thrived in daycare. Had the time of his life. I'm hoping for the same from Penny but if it doesn't look like she's working out well I won't put her back in. I definitely appreciate the concern though. I want what's best for her and the last place I found was a mom and pop shop that looked like it was a small operation, not some kind of daycare mill. Hopefully it'll work out, but I'll pay close attention. some kinda jackal fucked around with this message at 21:53 on Sep 18, 2013 |
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Sep 18, 2013 21:47
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Labs and goldens are typically fairly hardy dogs when it comes to daycare (in my personal experience). Although one of the worst bullies we had in daycare was a teenage black lab. He was one of the most dickish "haha gently caress you I do what I want" dogs I ever met. I had one golden who was excellent, very appropriate play, very resilient, well-behaved. All the other goldens I had only cared about trying to meld with and love on the people. The problem with many daycare workers is they don't understand canine body language and either don't notice or misinterpret some things. I thought I would facepalm hard enough to leave a bruise when my manager matter-of-factly said that one of the dogs was "resource guarding the gate" - it was barrier frustration. Sorry, I'm rambling about nothing important. Good luck.
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Sep 18, 2013 22:09
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Yeah, Penny is a Lab mix so hopefully she weathers daycare well enough No worries though, thanks for the input! The more the better.
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Sep 18, 2013 22:18
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We removed the pad from her pen and now she did her pee on the morning walk, only to leave a big dump on our floor the second we got back. Still, improvement! We also live on the second floor. Any tips for house training in an apartment?
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Sep 19, 2013 07:12
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Beef posted:We removed the pad from her pen and now she did her pee on the morning walk, only to leave a big dump on our floor the second we got back. Still, improvement! It's still pretty much the same. You just need to be more diligent about getting the dog out after naps, play, and food.
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Sep 19, 2013 13:22
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Beef posted:We removed the pad from her pen and now she did her pee on the morning walk, only to leave a big dump on our floor the second we got back. Still, improvement! Treat and praise the hell out of her when she evacuates outside. Don't stop doing this for a long time. It took us about a month of constant treats outside to be completely satisfied that she wouldn't evacuate in the house again. At 5 months old I want to say she is completely house broken.
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Sep 19, 2013 14:07
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Beef posted:We removed the pad from her pen and now she did her pee on the morning walk, only to leave a big dump on our floor the second we got back. Still, improvement! The kitchen timer is the most important piece of the puzzle. Make sure you're giving her ample opportunities to eliminate outside. If you're having accidents inside you either aren't monitoring her closely enough or you need to be taking trips outside more often.
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Sep 19, 2013 15:02
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Idem ditto today: went outside after the 2 hour timer went off and still she held it in for an hour and a half. I was ready for her to pee, picked her up and she just kept pissing while I rushed downstairs. After waiting outside again for 15 minutes, she crapped the second she got in. Cue me carrying a still pooing dog downstairs. She can hold it up way too good than a 9-week old should. When outside, she visibly gets frustrated. I notice her sniffing about as if she's going to go, but then she starts ripping out grass or running off. After an hour she will keep trying to run home, so I have to keep her from tugging on the leash, which ends up frustrating us both if it keeps up too long. Shouldn't we keep rewarding her to go on the pad inside, then start moving the pad outside after a week?
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Sep 19, 2013 20:20
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I really, really don't like people using pads for puppies. Clearly loads of people use them, and I'm sure at least a few of them are finding success, but I don't like them. Are you standing still while trying to wait her out to pee? If so, start moving. Walk through a park or something (somewhere interesting and appropriate for her to eliminate). Maybe even bring a pad outside on the grass if longer walks aren't enough to get her to go (if). You can also try the tough love method of taking the pup out after a nap in her crate. See if she pees after being out there for 15 minutes or so. If not, back in the crate for 20-30 minutes then bring her out again. Keep her contained in an area that she will endeavour to keep clean and provide structured breaks for her. Once she pees, have a huge party and allow her some play and freedom.
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Sep 19, 2013 20:29
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To echo ALL, there's a house training proverb: movement causes movement. If she's determined to try and out wait you, start moving around. Have you ever tried to run with a full bladder?
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Sep 19, 2013 21:03
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I have a new puppy, a 9 (now 10) week old from a mother and litter that was apparently abandoned by the family that owned the mother. Sob story aside, he's a great puppy and had a great foster, he's pretty well crate trained and has no accidents when we're on top of his potty breaks. While I understand that a week might be a little much to expect a pup to grow accustomed to his new home, I'm concerned about his shadowing/separation anxiety (screaming blood murder when we're outside sight of his crate). I try not to smother him with too much attention (but it's pretty tough to resist with a puppy), and am in the process of clicker training and teaching him how to use his new IQ treat ball/tug-a-jug. I just want him to be a confident dog when he's older. Socialization classes are in the works but a cough has delayed things until next Friday, I'm afraid. I'm guessing teaching him stay/come should be my first goal to prevent shadowing? Is it helpful to let him wander the house sometimes without constantly calling him back so I can make sure he's not having the occasional accidents or inappropriate chewing? Is he too young to even be concerned yet?
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Sep 19, 2013 21:58
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J Greedy posted:I'm guessing teaching him stay/come should be my first goal to prevent shadowing? No. I see so many people who come into class telling me that their dog already knows stay. And then they will put the dog into a down and walk away while saying the word "stay" in increasing volume with every step over and over. That's not stay! That's more an aside of what a stay command isn't, but it also isn't how you want to deal with budding separation anxiety. Refer to the training thread - there is a link in the OP to a post I made on mat work. The context was for dog reactivity, but it applies to you here as well. Begin with these exercises on a mat or a towel. Transition them slowly into a crate. You also need to be able to tell the difference between the dog having an actual freak out and just screaming for you to come back because he has determined that it works.
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Sep 19, 2013 22:05
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a life less posted:Are you standing still while trying to wait her out to pee? If so, start moving. Walk through a park or something (somewhere interesting and appropriate for her to eliminate). Maybe even bring a pad outside on the grass if longer walks aren't enough to get her to go (if). MrFurious posted:To echo ALL, there's a house training proverb: movement causes movement. This worked just now, WHOOooooo.... (I can finally go to bed now)
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Sep 19, 2013 22:10
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Congrats, now manage the situation so she can't fail again. Housetraining is remarkably easy. Anytime people are struggling, it's because they've created that situation themselves. Occasionally there is a biological or medical component, but that's rare.
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Sep 19, 2013 23:52
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MrFurious posted:Refer to the training thread - there is a link in the OP to a post I made on mat work. Thanks! I'll give mat work a shot, and dig deep into the training thread. Bonus picture: 
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Sep 20, 2013 14:20
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J Greedy posted:Thanks! I'll give mat work a shot, and dig deep into the training thread. That there is a 100% grade-A cute-as-hell dawg. Just sayin.
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Sep 20, 2013 14:41
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So my adult Labrador was hit by a car this morning and broke her hip pretty thoroughly. She'll be having surgery this afternoon, including screws and plates. Anybody ever dealt with this and have any tips to help her recovery? She's only 2.5 years old, so she's plenty energetic. How do we reconcile that with her inability to use her hips much or at all?
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Sep 20, 2013 17:05
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We just got a 9 week old rescue puppy. She was rescued at around 2 weeks and has been in a good home with her mother and litter with a reputable adoption agency. We took her home today, but she's very lethargic and it's worrisome. I kind of expected her to be off the wall. We have a 9 year old lab who is a giant ball of energy and has been like that since he was 7 weeks old, so this puppy just chillin in a crate taking a nap all day is kind of worrisome. Edit: and right on cue -- our 9 year old lab who is pretty awesome starts acting out, and peed in the house for the first time in I don't know how long. However, he is pretty terrified of thunderstorms, and there is a pretty bad storm going on at the moment to go along with this new thing in the house. They seem to get along well (or rather the older dog just ignores her while the little one follows the bigger one around) Sab0921 fucked around with this message at 04:21 on Sep 21, 2013 |
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Sep 21, 2013 01:09
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