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Well, I've had 2 LGTs - the first an 08, and now an 09 spec.B. I haven't really had any significant issues with it like a lot of forum users report. The TOB issue was resolved before the 08 models and didn't apply to the 6MT anyhow. Both of my turbos have been alright, but also the VF46 is maybe more reliable than the VF40 was. To be honest, the TD04, VF39, and heading into non-subarus things like the 16G haven't been known to really be any more reliable. I wouldn't expect it really to have any more hassles, is what I'm getting at. As far as fun to drive, depends what's fun to you. You will have the 2.5L motor, so a bit more low end balls. The interior is pretty nice - but then again I don't know how nice the Saabaru is. Nice sunroof, decent stock stereo, etc. I put a sizeable smackdown on the ESP crowd with my LGT in our local region - and I'm not a great driver. There were a few AutoX guys on LegacyGT who had good success, including regional top PAX in ESP with their 05 unlimiteds. So it's not like it's an underperforming car.
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# ? Sep 17, 2013 18:02 |
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# ? May 30, 2024 01:09 |
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Neptr posted:The radiator on my '02 WRX went with 91K on the odo. Mishimoto is the way to go, right? Everything on Rockauto looks like it's made for automatic transmission or for after 9/2002.
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# ? Sep 17, 2013 18:26 |
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After 90,000 miles, my clutch on my '08 LGT is starting to go. I've never had any issues with transmissions or clutches before, so I have a couple of quick questions. A friend at work was telling me I should upgrade to a stage 2 clutch, would this be worth it with no other upgrades to the car? Any red flags to look out for when talking to the transmission guy? What's the rough cost I should be at when I get the quote? Does anyone know a good transmission guy in the Willow Grove PA area (I already checked the LGT forums but didn't find anything). The one place I called said he has his clutches made for him, rather than buying something pre made (I asked about a Spec Stage 2). Is this good/bad?
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# ? Sep 17, 2013 19:31 |
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You'll want a flywheel too. That car has a dual mass part which can't be resurfaced as far as I know. Also no reason to upgrade unless you intend to increase power too. Otherwise you end up with a stiffer pedal and harsh engagement for no good reason.
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# ? Sep 17, 2013 19:38 |
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jamal posted:They aren't my favorite, but so far have been holding up pretty well, and are a lot less than koyo. If you just need a replacement I think it's the way to go. If you're upgrading power parts or doing track days it might be borderline. Sometimes the caps can leak but they'll generally send you a new one right away. If you want a price on one let me know. Im pretty happy with mine. It didn't keep up with my 207 at a track day, I had to have the heat on and all the vents pointed out the windows. It was wider so you have to cut the hose to get it on. Other than that its fine.
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# ? Sep 17, 2013 19:51 |
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BatDan posted:Last winter my 2005 Saab 9-2x Aero was unfortunate enough to develop some severe rod knock and it has basically been parked since then. It is getting to the point in the year where I need to seriously consider fixing this car since I don't really want to drive my Miata through the northeast Ohio winters on my commute to work. I had the same thing happen to my 02. I replaced it with the JDM STi engine. They are about $3.5k with ecu. By the time I was done, it was more like $6k? Something like that. The EJ207 is what the car should have come with, but Im selling it because I end up driving too fast. If you are worried about cost, just get a used EJ205 out of a US WRX.
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# ? Sep 17, 2013 19:54 |
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jamal posted:They aren't my favorite, but so far have been holding up pretty well, and are a lot less than koyo. If you just need a replacement I think it's the way to go. If you're upgrading power parts or doing track days it might be borderline. Sometimes the caps can leak but they'll generally send you a new one right away. If you want a price on one let me know. Just ordered one, time is a factor so I had to get one locally. HPDEs will probably be in my future, will it really not hold up that well? The stock system must be atrocious then. E: ^^If it can barely handle an EJ207, it should barely handle a stockish EJ205, I guess. Neptr fucked around with this message at 20:27 on Sep 17, 2013 |
# ? Sep 17, 2013 20:19 |
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Speaking of Saabarus... I'm selling my 2006 Saab 9-2x Aero 5 speed manual. Very rare car, 1 of 235. $11k OBO http://detroit.craigslist.org/okl/cto/4073861924.html
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# ? Sep 17, 2013 21:55 |
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Larrymer posted:Speaking of Saabarus... Sup 06 Aero 5MT buddy. You might want to post it on the 92x board if you haven't already. I don't suppose anyone here is in SoCal and interested in looking at that LGT for me? blk fucked around with this message at 22:39 on Sep 17, 2013 |
# ? Sep 17, 2013 22:09 |
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blindjoe posted:I had the same thing happen to my 02. Do you know what would be some of the additional costs besides the engine? I think I would also need an openport or something that would allow me to reflash the ecu for my car. Besides that what is there? From what I understand the wiring harness just plugs right in. I imagine down the line I would want a new ecu or something so I could take advantage of AVCS but I don't think I would need that right away. Regardless, I AM starting to lean towards a USDM engine now, but I want to find one with decently low miles. I really don't have the time right now to start tearing apart engines so swapping in a different shortblock is out. Maybe I can do that with the broken engine once I remove it. Then I'll have a backup engine.
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# ? Sep 18, 2013 01:09 |
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BatDan posted:Do you know what would be some of the additional costs besides the engine? I think I would also need an openport or something that would allow me to reflash the ecu for my car. Besides that what is there? From what I understand the wiring harness just plugs right in. Other Costs: Maintenance stuff: timing belt, water pump, plugs, clutch, hoses, fluids,random broken stuff <- largest expense (probably would be needed on USDM one anyways) Required stuff: Downpipe/Exhaust (if getting a v8 or later) as the twinscroll doesn't match up with USDM exhaust Tune (Got mine done at Maxwell Power, im sure any tuning place could do it for you) Upgrades you will do "while you are in there": boost gauge, a/f gauge, fancy exhaust (I screwed that up and bought a lovely ebay exhaust, quickly cut it off and welded the stocker back on. AVCS wiring came with my engine, they give you the cut wiring harness and that's all you really need If you get one, you have to get either the keys with a v9 ecu or a v8 ecu as there is an immobilizer.
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# ? Sep 18, 2013 01:39 |
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Worth noting: v8/v9 JDM ECUs do not normally communicate with emissions OBD2 scanners. You typically will need to use a US ECU for that, so you may need to maintain two ECUs with tunes.
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# ? Sep 18, 2013 01:48 |
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si posted:Worth noting: v8/v9 JDM ECUs do not normally communicate with emissions OBD2 scanners. You typically will need to use a US ECU for that, so you may need to maintain two ECUs with tunes. Also worth noting is that if the guy swapping the motor is out of BC, we lose aircare sometime around April or May 2014
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# ? Sep 18, 2013 02:18 |
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blk posted:Sup 06 Aero 5MT buddy. You might want to post it on the 92x board if you haven't already. Sure did. I dunno if the price is too high with the miles or not, but it's in pretty good shape. Anybody care to comment? I don't see 06's for sale often because of their rarity and there's an 05 listed for $10.5 with 90k or so miles on the local CL that's been on there for a little bit.
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# ? Sep 18, 2013 02:46 |
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Larrymer posted:Sure did. I dunno if the price is too high with the miles or not, but it's in pretty good shape. Anybody care to comment? I don't see 06's for sale often because of their rarity and there's an 05 listed for $10.5 with 90k or so miles on the local CL that's been on there for a little bit. You fucker. That is an amazing car and I wish it wasn't so expensive and I hadn't just bought a car. After my 05LGT wagon blew up, I looked for 06 black saabarus and none existed.
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# ? Sep 18, 2013 13:32 |
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So I'm going to continue to shamelessly beg for Subaru buying advice. What are you guys' thoughts on this car? http://denver.craigslist.org/cto/4072355839.html I looked at NADA and it said retail is 5200, so I feel like her 6k asking price is pretty high. But if it's really nice, is 5k still too much to pay? Also, can these be made to handle decently, or should I just keep looking for an impreza?
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# ? Sep 18, 2013 14:59 |
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'New engine' Better have been done by a dealer and be well documented, otherwise, run.
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# ? Sep 18, 2013 15:01 |
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THE BLACK NINJA posted:So I'm going to continue to shamelessly beg for Subaru buying advice. What are you guys' thoughts on this car? http://denver.craigslist.org/cto/4072355839.html They are decent cars. As for handling and suspension. They weigh like 3400 lbs. 3rd gen subarus are the fattest ever made. They do not use impreza suspension. They use a setup more similar to the 4th gen legacies + 08+ imprezas, but have different springs tophats etc. A kid is running a 5speed L sedan around here dropped and he is FAST in it, so don't let the details stop you. If you want to have more suspension choices an earlier legacy is all impreza junk. As for pricing. It is high. If it had revised headgaskets and a new timing belt, 5k isn't terrible, but holy poo poo 6k for a 13 year old car. I am selling that exact car except its an auto with 203k miles and I'm trying to get 4k for it. Honestly if that is the car you want and it checks out, get it. There are cheaper deals to be had though. If you need to fix anything on those sedans read my thread or PM me. I have gone through mine and replaced drat near everything.
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# ? Sep 18, 2013 15:05 |
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si posted:'New engine' I'd be interested in why the whole engine was replaced. I'm assuming they mean a new shortblock. If this person let the engine get so bad that it needed a new shortblock, I'd reject it out of hand. I'm guessing either they let it overheat from a bad head gasket and it seized or they neglected to change the timing belt. It's probable that they neglected a lot of other things that have not yet been replaced.
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# ? Sep 18, 2013 15:07 |
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THE BLACK NINJA posted:So I'm going to continue to shamelessly beg for Subaru buying advice. What are you guys' thoughts on this car? http://denver.craigslist.org/cto/4072355839.html Are you a car guy with your own tools that can do stuff? Or would you have to go the dealer to get stuff like Brakes done?
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# ? Sep 18, 2013 15:20 |
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Once I have my 04' Impreza 2.5 TS 5spd back together I'll be selling it if anyone is interested. Has ~130K on it, and it will have new headgaskets, clutch, timing belt, and much more. I'm thinking to shoot for around $4,000 - one of the doors is dented from some girl backing in to it
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# ? Sep 18, 2013 15:25 |
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I don't know how to multi quote, but here are responses. First of thanks as always to you guys. To si and dayman: I agree that's the new motor is interesting and could indicate broad neglect. I've sent an email asking for details such as tb/pump/head gaskets etc. Daslog: I consider myself a "car guy" and have done work on lots of cars. However, sometimes I still ask stupid questions and in comparison to alot of people in this forum (and thread for that matter) I'm a stupid newbie. that said, I've never used a dealer to do a repair or mod unless it was warranty work. I would not hesitate to revamp the brakes or swap a transmission or motor. Rebuilding a motor is probably out of my league at this point but I'm still looking for a winter activity. SIF: thanks for all the advice. My sti was around 3400 and my bimmer is even more, I just don't want to drive a bowl of oatmeal. All I would do would be springs and shocks without lowering. I'm not looking for a race car, that's next summer I too see 6k for a 13 year old car as ludicrous, but 5k in my bullshit market might just sneak into the realm of reasonable. The lady can't see me til Sunday, and I'll report back then. Unrelated, I found a post on CL for a 98 RS with some tasteless mods for 3000. I emailed him 30 min after it was posted but no word back. I think it was a troll ha.
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# ? Sep 18, 2013 16:51 |
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You're kind of in an odd place if you want stiffer strut/springs on a 3rd gen. Your options are tokico dspecs / bilsteins / excel Gs / coilovers and springs you have H&R lowering / sti pink /swifts. Or coilovers. For my wagon I just picked up, I'm going to go Excel Gs and H&R's unless I can find a good coilover. Also, the car isn't a fancy dining glass, its a subaru. If all the CEL's are off and poo poo isn't obviously ruined, its fine. The motor should have paperwork. A replacement 2.5 shouldn't be a big deal as long as it doesn't knock. I bought my 600 dollar basket case legacy and would not hesitate to drive it across the US now after I've fixed it up. My thread details everything wrong that these cars could have. It's just a pile of bolts. A 98 RS is going to have the DOHC motor, which is more prone to issues involving headgasket. If they overheat they like to cook the bearings or warp. If it doesn't overheat and has headgasket paperwork it should be fine, plus you get better suspension choices but a shittier interior.
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# ? Sep 18, 2013 17:01 |
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Given that you are comfortable working on a car, and assuming that motor checks out, I think 5200 is a reasonable amount.
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# ? Sep 18, 2013 17:18 |
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Slow is Fast posted:You fucker. That is an amazing car and I wish it wasn't so expensive and I hadn't just bought a car. After my 05LGT wagon blew up, I looked for 06 black saabarus and none existed. They're hard to find. This one magically popped up 5 minutes from me when I was casually looking for one. I went to look at it the day it was listed, and put down a deposit.
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# ? Sep 18, 2013 17:49 |
Hey guys, can I join your club now? I don't know the official handshake yet or anything. I'm excited. The miles are a little higher than I might have otherwise liked, but it was a good price (I think) and it's in really good shape all around. And it's not white.
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# ? Sep 18, 2013 18:26 |
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Bad Munki posted:Hey guys, can I join your club now? I don't know the official handshake yet or anything. What is wrong with white?
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# ? Sep 18, 2013 19:06 |
Well, I mean, just look at it.
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# ? Sep 18, 2013 19:09 |
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Bad Munki posted:Well, I mean, just look at it. I looked at it, my WRX, and my old trusty pickup truck. It's beautiful, and requires constant washing.
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# ? Sep 18, 2013 19:11 |
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So the black legacy gt I linked above had the motor replaced (professionally, with receipts) due to rod knock. I asked whether just the short block was done or what, but I have yet to get a reply. I also found the car on awdpirates.net listed for 5k obo instead of 6k. I'm thinking if I show up with 4.5 cash he/she will take it. I've got to think 4.5 is a good enough deal considering all the responses to my questions have been answered satisfactorily. My question for you guys is does that rod knock raise other red flags?
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# ? Sep 18, 2013 20:09 |
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Step 1: Have the dealer take those stupid stickers off, those things are awful.
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# ? Sep 18, 2013 20:19 |
Yeah, they're already off. It was annoying because they didn't use a single-piece decal, it was every little letter and they practically put their full contact info on there, so it was a hundred teeny little letters I had to peel off one by one. What's a good substance to use for minor chips in the clear coat? There are a few spots on the front I'd like to go over.
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# ? Sep 18, 2013 20:46 |
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THE BLACK NINJA posted:So the black legacy gt I linked above had the motor replaced (professionally, with receipts) due to rod knock. I asked whether just the short block was done or what, but I have yet to get a reply. I also found the car on awdpirates.net listed for 5k obo instead of 6k. I'm thinking if I show up with 4.5 cash he/she will take it. I've got to think 4.5 is a good enough deal considering all the responses to my questions have been answered satisfactorily. My question for you guys is does that rod knock raise other red flags? I can't imagine a shop cracking open a block just to change the Rod bearing, so lets assume that they at least replaced the short block. It makes Zero sense replace a short block and not have the heads done. However, a compression test should quickly tell you if there is a problem with the valves. All 4 cylinders should have high compression. Beyond that, I'd ask if they did the clutch, throw out bearing, and pressure plate when they had the engine out. I assume you are going to test drive it to make the the transmission shifts. Everything else is fixable in my garage, so I wouldn't worry about any of it. Your Mileage may vary.
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# ? Sep 18, 2013 21:07 |
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My real question would be is did they put a NEW engine in, or a used engine, and what was the condition of the used engine if so. It would be pretty rare for them to get a new crate motor in that situation - and unfortunately common for them to have bought a $400 junkyard motor with 100k on it.
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# ? Sep 18, 2013 21:29 |
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He said its a rebuilt motor. I'll get details I guess when I get there and look at receipts. He said the motor is still in its break in period which says to me the rebuild included at least cylinder honing and probably a bunch of other stuff I don't know about. I'm thinking along the same lines as daslog right now which is that if the clutch, tranny, and motor feel good I'll probably just buy it because I can fix most other stuff on my own or at worst with help from a buddy. And if the motor is crap I guess I'll just have to do a 207 swap
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# ? Sep 18, 2013 22:14 |
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My 98 STi is currently on the dyno getting the power FC tuned. Beside it is an R34 skyline, apparently next year you can bring over the GTR's (into Canada) which should be great :gettin:
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# ? Sep 18, 2013 22:37 |
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I have a 99 OBS (2.2 SOHC w/cable clutch) and am looking to do the throwout bearing, which I failed to do when I swapped the engine 20K miles ago. Is it easier to pull the engine or the transmission? Clutch was pretty new, but my g/f is a bit hard on it so it might be smart to change it...
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# ? Sep 18, 2013 22:40 |
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DJ Commie posted:I have a 99 OBS (2.2 SOHC w/cable clutch) and am looking to do the throwout bearing, which I failed to do when I swapped the engine 20K miles ago. Is it easier to pull the engine or the transmission? Clutch was pretty new, but my g/f is a bit hard on it so it might be smart to change it... I find it easier to pull the engine because garage doesn't have a lift.
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# ? Sep 18, 2013 22:52 |
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I always pull the engine. I can get a Subaru engine out, clutch swapped and back in in well under 3 hours. Ask me about the time I pulled the engine 3 times in a week on a '99 Legacy...
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# ? Sep 18, 2013 23:40 |
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# ? May 30, 2024 01:09 |
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VelociBacon posted:My 98 STi is currently on the dyno getting the power FC tuned. Beside it is an R34 skyline, apparently next year you can bring over the GTR's (into Canada) which should be great :gettin: Got the tune done with no problems (Apexi Power FC install + tune for $200, not bad!). I used Racing Greed out of Coquitlam, BC. Initially the car was making 219hp to the wheels with 94 octane and was knocking pretty much throughout when it got above 5k rpm. It is now making 215hp on 91 octane, with no knocking (super conservative tune) anywhere throughout the RPM range. Next up, DCCD pro install next week to have a fully active and algorithmically controlled center locking diff. Before tune: After tune: VelociBacon fucked around with this message at 02:18 on Sep 19, 2013 |
# ? Sep 19, 2013 02:02 |