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I decided to dip my toes into water cooling for the first time. Got the n00b friendly Corsair H55. It's a hunk of junk. The pump sounds like an over-worked hard drive. I got a second one and it is louder than the first.
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Sep 21, 2013 03:27
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Gnomedolf posted:I decided to dip my toes into water cooling for the first time. Got the n00b friendly Corsair H55. It's a hunk of junk. The pump sounds like an over-worked hard drive. I got a second one and it is louder than the first. Low-end CLC like that is kinda crapola. You get a Hyper 212 EVO's worth of cooling for five times the noise and twice the cost. Return it, then either go for aforementioned 212 EVO or just move up to at least an H80i or H90. --  OP UPDATE TIME I've got some time and nothing else to do, right here, right now. Here's my general plan:
My question to you all: Is there anything in particular you want to see in the OP?
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Sep 22, 2013 21:06
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Gnomedolf posted:I decided to dip my toes into water cooling for the first time. Got the n00b friendly Corsair H55. It's a hunk of junk. The pump sounds like an over-worked hard drive. I got a second one and it is louder than the first. Thing is, most cheap all in ones pale compared to the best air coolers
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Sep 22, 2013 21:40
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HalloKitty posted:Thing is, most cheap all in ones pale compared to the best air coolers I was trying out water cooling because I wanted something that is as quiet as possible. Are there any air coolers for Haswell that are known to be super quiet?
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Sep 23, 2013 01:38
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Gnomedolf posted:I was trying out water cooling because I wanted something that is as quiet as possible. Are there any air coolers for Haswell that are known to be super quiet? Since you're posting in this thread, I'll assume you're overclocking, in which case you should be looking at a Noctua NH-D14. Though at that cost, it's a toss-up between that and a Corsair H90/NZXT Kraken X40 anyway. Cheap closed-loop coolers are just crapola. Factory Factory fucked around with this message at 01:51 on Sep 23, 2013 |
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Sep 23, 2013 01:46
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Gnomedolf posted:I was trying out water cooling because I wanted something that is as quiet as possible. Are there any air coolers for Haswell that are known to be super quiet? A Noctua NH-D14 is just amazing. I have one that I recently upgraded from my recent water cooling upgrade this month. Was going to make an SA-Mart thread for $60. I have an 'fan upgrade' kit that adds the NF-F12 and NF-A15 as well (the best cooling fans on the NH-D14). Another option is the Thermalright Silver Arrow Extreme. My buddy has one on his 4770K and has zero issue with heat or noise. Both monster coolers are amazing. I think the Noctua is built better but they are both great coolers. It depends on what colors you like.  [EDIT]: $70 in SA-Mart after I saw how much it costs to ship. jink fucked around with this message at 04:03 on Sep 23, 2013 |
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Sep 23, 2013 02:44
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Hey guys I have a Bitfenix Prodigy case and I was looking for some suggestions on upgrading the front case fan. Maybe a 200mm or even 230mm fan? I want to overclock but I'd like to make sure my cooling is pretty decent before then.
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Sep 23, 2013 03:34
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John Lightning posted:Hey guys I have a Bitfenix Prodigy case and I was looking for some suggestions on upgrading the front case fan. Maybe a 200mm or even 230mm fan? I want to overclock but I'd like to make sure my cooling is pretty decent before then. I have my Prodigy set up with a 230mm Bitfenix Spectre Pro in front and an NZXT Kraken X40 hooked up in rear as exhaust, idle fan speed cranked up slightly for exhaust.
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Sep 23, 2013 04:01
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Factory Factory posted:I have my Prodigy set up with a 230mm Bitfenix Spectre Pro in front and an NZXT Kraken X40 hooked up in rear as exhaust, idle fan speed cranked up slightly for exhaust. If I still have the lower hard drive cage in place will the 230mm fit? e: VVV Awesome, thanks! John Lightning fucked around with this message at 05:22 on Sep 23, 2013 |
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Sep 23, 2013 04:49
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Yes it will fit. I helped a mate do his build a while back, and he had a 230mm spectre fan in the front and a H100i in the top with two 120mm fans. The bottom hard drive cage fit fine
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Sep 23, 2013 05:08
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So despite the bent standoff (which is actually only bent on TOP, not on the part that goes into the backplate... somehow), it looks like the TIM has cured and I'm not getting 45-60C temp ranges depending on the game/what's going on as my normal operating temps. Pretty god damned nice.
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Sep 24, 2013 01:11
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Gnomedolf posted:I was trying out water cooling because I wanted something that is as quiet as possible. Are there any air coolers for Haswell that are known to be super quiet? Most of the Noctua coolers are fantastic - I'm using the NH-U12 on my sandy bridge and I love it. Socket 1155/1156 coolers will work just fine on Haswell.
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Sep 24, 2013 17:57
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I have an older machine with DDR2 that's been experiencing memory related BSODs, and rather than replace the failing sticks I bumped the RAM voltage to 2.1V. It's been running fine since, but I just realized that I have a 'lifetime' warranty on the memory. Do they have some sort of internal sensor that will result in a denied RMA if it's been up that high? The 5 year old RAM was failing already on stock voltage, I didn't break it specifically by bumping voltage.
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Sep 26, 2013 23:03
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Weinertron posted:I have an older machine with DDR2 that's been experiencing memory related BSODs, and rather than replace the failing sticks I bumped the RAM voltage to 2.1V. It's been running fine since, but I just realized that I have a 'lifetime' warranty on the memory. Do they have some sort of internal sensor that will result in a denied RMA if it's been up that high? The 5 year old RAM was failing already on stock voltage, I didn't break it specifically by bumping voltage. Since it's DDR2 you probably wouldn't be denied a claim if they're presenting errors at stock voltage that you can ID using memtest, although you'll probably get whatever they have left on-hand as a replacement rather than your current models.
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Sep 26, 2013 23:26
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Asking here because this seems to be the place where people would know the most about heatsinks, etc: I tried asking Corsair Support, but they haven't responded yet, and there's a window of opportunity where an answer would help a lot: I currently have an old H60 on top of my 2600K - stock clocks - inside an Antec P-180(original 180, if that matters). I don't know how much is relevent here so I'm just going to go into ridiculous detail: I've got it set up in corsair recommended fashion: the heatsink-side tubes exit to case-front, radiator mounted to the rear of the case, tubes to the bottom, Corsair Static Pressure fan mounted between it and the case as an intake. Additionally, I've got another 120mm intake at the front of the case, and a 120mm mounted at the top as an exhaust. So anyway I have had this H60 since I bought the 2600k, as a replacement to the lovely stock cooler, and back in the day it worked really nicely, even though I went the kind of lazy route and just cleaned up the old heat sink material on the spreader and just used the stock packaged thermal material from the H60, rather than scrubbing them both and applying Arctic Silver myself. For a while it kept ambient temps in the 30s, and full load temps in the 60s, and that seems mighty fine to me. Anyway, present day, through this summer temps have kind of just been getting out of hand: As I type this with basically no CPU load, it's idling in the high-40's, low-50s, and under load goes into the 70s, I haven't bothered to try doing a proper burn-tests at full load to see what will happen. Ambients, for reference, are in the 20s(75-80F). I've pulled the radiator and confirmed there's no caked up dust, I've replaced it's fan and while these things helped, temps are still not great. I've even tightened down the mounting screws to the mainboard, which helped by a few degrees but nothing significant. I'm figuring that the pump might just be dying after a few years, unless anyone here has any better ideas. So anyway, my general Corsair Hydro heatsink question: Does anybody know if the same backplate+front mounting stuff for this old H60 would be the same as what's used on something like the newer H80i? See, also this summer I managed to break both my arms(woops!) and am hardly recovered yet, so I don't know that I have the manual dexterity, precision, flexibility, or strength to install a brand new heatsink of any sort. I figure if the H80i could use the same mounting stuff as the H60, I could just pull the H60 off, clean the heatsink, and drop the H80i onto the same mount points without needing to worry about being clever. I'm going to happen to be way downtown tomorrow, near enough to the out-of-my way Micro Center that I could drop in and pick the H80 up if this was all a reasonable thought. Thanks, goons.
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Sep 27, 2013 01:00
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Are the recommended voltage and temperatures for Haswell still 72C + 1.38?
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Sep 30, 2013 10:51
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They're the same as Ivy Bridge, so 72 C 1.30V max, 1.275V is better.
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Sep 30, 2013 14:08
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Anandtech posted an article about overclocking using a custom liquid cooling setup. They built a fully custom setup using Swiftech waterblocks, radiators, and fans. The upshot is that while they got lower temperatures when overclocking, they were unable to actually push the CPU or videocards any further, and there was a huge noise penalty. I feel like if they had just turned up the fans on their heatsinks to comparable levels they would have achieved comparable or even better cooling performance.
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Sep 30, 2013 18:54
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Alereon posted:Anandtech posted an article about overclocking using a custom liquid cooling setup. They built a fully custom setup using Swiftech waterblocks, radiators, and fans. The upshot is that while they got lower temperatures when overclocking, they were unable to actually push the CPU or videocards any further, and there was a huge noise penalty. I feel like if they had just turned up the fans on their heatsinks to comparable levels they would have achieved comparable or even better cooling performance. The idea behind that article is good but they kind of hosed it up by picking a random CPU to test with, should of got a CPU that was known to be a decent overclocker to test with, also not using a modified bios to overcome the GPU power limit kind of defeated the object of seeing how much further a GPU could be pushed with water over air too. I guess the one thing the article really brings to light is how badly Intel fit there heat spreader on the CPU, not really a huge temp drop on the CPU over air yet a massive drop on the two GPU's, .
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Oct 1, 2013 15:27
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At this point it should be pretty apparent that your overclock ability has way more to do with the magicalness of your chip and not the poo poo stacked on it.
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Oct 1, 2013 16:44
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Factory Factory posted:They're the same as Ivy Bridge, so 72 C 1.30V max, 1.275V is better. For Haswell, should I be using adaptive voltage or just set my VCore to a static number?
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Oct 1, 2013 23:48
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weinus posted:For Haswell, should I be using adaptive voltage or just set my VCore to a static number? Static voltage is for lazy people and people who hate electricity and want to see it used as fast as possible. Adaptive.
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Oct 1, 2013 23:55
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Cross posting from the PC build thread...Digital Jesus posted:I have a Carbide 500R with a Swiftech H220 mounted at the top with 2 Noctua NF-F12s in the top cavity. I'd really like to make this push-pull, but I can't fit 2 fans under the radiator because the 8 pin power on my board is just in the way.
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Oct 2, 2013 02:16
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I thought I'd look to see if right angled 8 pin motherboard power cables existed, but all I found was, well, this nonsense. Looks like someone took a soldering iron, melted the plastic on one side of a normal connector, and squashed the cables sideways. Not exactly what I had in mind. If you wanted a job that ghetto, you could do it yourself in a few minutes. Maybe you could try asymmetrical fans - make one 120mm and the other 92mm to clear the pin. Of course, then you'll have to make up some fun way to attach the 92mm to the radiator. Noctua does sell a 92mm. HalloKitty fucked around with this message at 11:09 on Oct 2, 2013 |
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Oct 2, 2013 11:07
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Using four fans in push-pull on a radiator seems pretty excessive anyway. Most radiators aren't THAT restrictive, and if your fans truly aren't high enough pressure just doubling up on them seems like a worse alternative to getting more appropriate fans.
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Oct 2, 2013 21:43
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Alereon posted:Using four fans in push-pull on a radiator seems pretty excessive anyway. Most radiators aren't THAT restrictive, and if your fans truly aren't high enough pressure just doubling up on them seems like a worse alternative to getting more appropriate fans. This. There's very little difference between push, pull, or push/pull from what I've seen in benchmarks. Maybe a handful of degrees. Plus, push setups are harder to clean.
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Oct 2, 2013 22:36
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For custom water loops the normal thing to do in the past was just to toss a couple high-static-pressure 120x38mm fans on the radiator and hook them to a 5v-7v fan controller. Would probably work just as well here if the radiator's restrictive at all.
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Oct 2, 2013 23:36
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Thanks for that, I'm convinced not to bother throwing extra fans at it. I've removed the PWM splitter that came with the H220 and plugged the pump straight into a CPU header and the fans into a chassis header with one of the Noctua splitters and things seem better. Things are obviously a little louder (really not much) but the results are worth it. The highest temp I got out of IBT was 75 and the highest I got playing BF4 for 3 hours was 51.
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Oct 3, 2013 01:26
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http://www.newegg.ca/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16813130647 And attempting to overclock with a Coolermaster Evo. From what I've gathered, the UEFI bios requires you to use an option called "My OC Genie Option". Yet it is coming up blank, as in, no options are listed. Anyone have any ideas? Never mind it's a lower-end mobo I guess. Nebulon Gate fucked around with this message at 00:48 on Oct 5, 2013 |
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Oct 5, 2013 00:24
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I'm currently in the process of overclocking my old i5-750, and I have a question about the System Memory multiplier. I was able to get a stable 3.6Ghz by raising the BCLK to 180 (from 133) however I have to keep the Memory Multiplier at 6 which leaves me with a ram frequency of 1080. I have 8gb worth of this ddr3 ram which crucial says is rated at 1333. If I raise the multiplier to 8 then it raises the frequency to 1440 and the system becomes unstable. Basically my question is if it is ok to just leave the multiplier at 6 for 1080 frequency, which is around the same I was getting at 8 multiplier on the default BCLK of 133. Or does the multiplier have other implications that mean I should continue trying to raise it to 8?
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Oct 6, 2013 18:09
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amitlu posted:Basically my question is if it is ok to just leave the multiplier at 6 for 1080 frequency, which is around the same I was getting at 8 multiplier on the default BCLK of 133. Or does the multiplier have other implications that mean I should continue trying to raise it to 8? The multiplier is only for the memory, and there's little if any difference between 133*8 and 177*6. It's 100% fine to leave it at the 1080 frequency, and if your kit can handle better timings at 1066, then you can set those timings, as well. Alternatively, you could overvolt the RAM and try to make it stable again at the higher clock speed (up to ~1.65V).
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Oct 6, 2013 18:14
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Factory Factory posted:The multiplier is only for the memory, and there's little if any difference between 133*8 and 177*6. It's 100% fine to leave it at the 1080 frequency, and if your kit can handle better timings at 1066, then you can set those timings, as well. Thanks! I think I'll just leave it at 1080 and not push my luck.
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Oct 6, 2013 20:46
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Just realized I never overclocked my i5 2500k. I have a Gigabyte P67A-D3-B3 mobo. I reading and is it really just as simple as changing my multiplier from 33 to 40? Looks like I can do a mild overclock on just the stock cooler. Planning on running some of that programs in the op to check for stability.
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Oct 9, 2013 00:45
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B-Mac posted:Just realized I never overclocked my i5 2500k. I have a Gigabyte P67A-D3-B3 mobo. I reading and is it really just as simple as changing my multiplier from 33 to 40? Looks like I can do a mild overclock on just the stock cooler. Planning on running some of that programs in the op to check for stability. Pretty much, yeah. Changing the turbo multiplier and making it turbo on all cores. But I probably wouldn't recommend the stock cooler. That thing is anaemic as hell.
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Oct 9, 2013 12:34
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So I have an aging computer that I want to squeeze the maximum out of. I can't justify the cost of a full upgrade to myself, so I want to work with what I've got now: Intel Core 2 Duo 6600 2.40 ghz 4gb of probably lovely kingston ram, arranged in 1x 2gb and 2x 1gb (it does run in dual channel mode fortunately) Geforce gtx280 A lovely OCZ SSD The GPU seems to be relatively fast compared to the other stuff, so I want to raise the CPU and ram bottleneck a bit, if that makes sense. When actually playing a game, the graphics are usually not the issue but CPU speed is, and often things get choppy when there's a lot going on. I already raised the bus speed to 320 from stock 267, this seems to be stable with a max cpu temp of 60 degrees, idling at 45 (this is still fine right?):  However, my memory ratio is 4:5  From what I understand, this should be 1:1. I currently have it set to my Gigabyte mobo's auto setting, which defaults at 2.5, and to get 1:1 I would have to set it to 2, right? This seems very counterintuitive though, since it seems I would be making my ram run slower than it can, or is this actually a good idea? Could it be harmful to try? And would setting the ram multiplier to a lower setting allow me to raise the bus speed? Also, should I fiddle with the cpu multiplier in this case? I have it set to the maximum of 9 with 320 = 2.88 ghz. Obviously I'm pretty new to this but I feel like I'm beginning to understand, so I'd like to learn how to do it without frying my rig in the process. Do you guys have any recommendations?
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Oct 19, 2013 10:59
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It seems that the clock divider is working as advertised - you have DDR2-800 SDRAM (that's 400 MHz double-pumped), and a 320 MHz FSB - that matches the 4:5 FSB:DRAM ratio exactly. Setting a 1:1 divider would underclock your RAM and run it at 320 MHz (~DDR2-640). The multiplier setting you're talking about... Oy. Okay. It's at 2.5 right now. Welp guess what, that's the reciprocal of the 4:5 ratio (5:4, or 1.25) multiplied by the 2x DDR multiplier (double data rate, remember?). So yeah, 2x is a 1:1 ratio. But again, that would underclock your memory. RAM speed = FSB * "memory multiplier" setting. Set the multiplier to keep your RAM as close as possible to 800 MT/s without going too far over. See, you've got it, you're doing well. 
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Oct 19, 2013 11:16
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Factory Factory posted:It seems that the clock divider is working as advertised - you have DDR2-800 SDRAM (that's 400 MHz double-pumped), and a 320 MHz FSB - that matches the 4:5 FSB:DRAM ratio exactly. Setting a 1:1 divider would underclock your RAM and run it at 320 MHz (~DDR2-640). Hooray! Well I guess this is near the maximum I can get from this setup then, right? I could raise the bus speed a few notches but I read that it's not a good idea to run over 1.5v core power and I'm pretty close to that.. Unless there's a way to run at a higher speed with less power usage. I could afford to throw in an aftermarket fan or something to reduce the heat at least... I'll just experiment a bit.
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Oct 19, 2013 11:23
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That's still from an era where a high FSB is useful. You can probably drop the CPU multiplier to 8 and run a FSB of 360MHz with the memory 1:1 to that and get better performance than with a 320MHz FSB and 400Mhz memory. What chipset does your motherboard have? A lot of them from late in that era could handle a bit over 400MHz no problem. You might be able to drop the CPU multiplier to 7 to do a 411MHz FSB with 1:1 memory, but that's near the edge of where a lot of chipsets topped out at AND overclocking the memory which may not take well to it.
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Oct 19, 2013 13:04
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craig588 posted:That's still from an era where a high FSB is useful. You can probably drop the CPU multiplier to 8 and run a FSB of 360MHz with the memory 1:1 to that and get better performance than with a 320MHz FSB and 400Mhz memory. What chipset does your motherboard have? A lot of them from late in that era could handle a bit over 400MHz no problem. You might be able to drop the CPU multiplier to 7 to do a 411MHz FSB with 1:1 memory, but that's near the edge of where a lot of chipsets topped out at AND overclocking the memory which may not take well to it. What about 8x 380 with ram set to 1:1? That would net me 3 Ghz (a little more than what I have it clocked to now at 9x), or would that be too much? I have a Gigabyte motherboard with an Intel P/G965 chipset: 
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Oct 19, 2013 14:29
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Oh, that's a chipset from really early in the era before even 333MHz was an officially supported FSB. Maybe someone else can add in if they remember them clocking very well, but since the specced limit was 266Mhz you're probably already near the limit.
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Oct 19, 2013 17:31
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