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mds2 posted:Another day, another plane. This is my favorite so far. I feel like I say that everytime you post a new plane but they are getting better in subtle ways. Is that a Big Ash iron or Hock?
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Sep 17, 2013 05:06
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Big Ash irons. They are pretty nice, though a little short. These are the two I made for a plane swap. I dont know if I can get rid of the walnut one. 
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Sep 17, 2013 14:12
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So this is pretty cool, I guess it's nothing new but I don't remember seeing it before. Replicating vintage tool bases out of MDF. http://owwm.org/viewtopic.php?f=1&t=33625 http://vintagemachinery.org/photoindex/detail.aspx?id=2198
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Sep 18, 2013 04:46
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mds2 posted:I dont know if I can get rid of the walnut one. Gimme
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Sep 18, 2013 23:17
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I got a thick slab of red oak at an estate sale for 0.50/bf. I meant to go back the next weekend for more wood at half-price but I missed it. Now the guy is advertising the leftovers on craigslist: http://olympic.craigslist.org/mat/4063274801.html The closest hardwood dealer is about a 90 minute drive from here so I'd like to get some or all of that wood for cheap. Problem is I have very little experience with hardwood prices or estimating board feet. How much wood is that? How much should I offer for it all? What are reasonable prices for the different species listed?
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Sep 19, 2013 04:51
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Got another shipment of Black Walnut logs the other day (6 of them) but the person who's giving them to me keeps cutting them 6' long, so after discarding the 3-5" on each end of the log that have cracked, I'm left with 5' boards. Don't want to complain or even make suggestions as I'm getting them for free and her truck doesn't have a full-length box (dam extended cabs), but it's pretty annoying when I've been waiting to make a dining room table top for a while now and haven't gotten a single log long enough to do it. I think I'm going to have to break out the biscuit joiner and make the table top "flooring style". Anyone have pictures of such a beast?
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Sep 19, 2013 14:26
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Cpt.Wacky posted:I got a thick slab of red oak at an estate sale for 0.50/bf. I meant to go back the next weekend for more wood at half-price but I missed it. Now the guy is advertising the leftovers on craigslist: http://olympic.craigslist.org/mat/4063274801.html 0.50/bf is a bargain for any of those types of wood. I'd make an offer to take away all of it (if you're physically capable) and low ball the price. Generally when guys are trying to get rid of this stuff, they're just happy to see it gone. Considering most of those woods will go for 4-10 times the price you listed (at least where I'm from) it will be hard not to get a good deal. Make sure you get a decent calculation of the volume before you make an offer though.
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Sep 19, 2013 15:45
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pageerror404 posted:Wish I had your luck. Every one of these I find is ridiculously expensive. Check into the Craftsman block planes. I just bought one that is 99% identical to a Stanley 9 1/2, the differences are negligible, and looks like it was never used but probably rattled around a toolbox for a few years; $15 shipped. You can buy one that looks new for $5-10 more. Seems like a good value to me.     I'm considering repainting it black because I dislike whatever poo poo shade of green that is. This one I plan on keeping but then I had planned on keeping the Stanley 9 1/2 so who knows. What do you say woodgoons, paint it or no?
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Sep 20, 2013 06:26
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Leave it.
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Sep 20, 2013 06:47
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Yay or nay? Vintage 12" Craftsman bandsaw for $75 http://sfbay.craigslist.org/eby/tls/4080455946.html Never owned a bandsaw before and would like to test the waters. Don't trust the 80s to present Craftsmans much but the vintage stuff seems possibly decent
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Sep 21, 2013 05:27
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dwoloz posted:Yay or nay? I have that bandsaw already, and it's worked great so far! The tabletop is a bit small, compared to two wheeler, but otherwise it works amazingly. That seems like a pretty fantastic deal for a stand and a motor being included too.
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Sep 21, 2013 07:55
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I've been told the 3 wheelers tend to break blades. Any problem with that ExplodingSims?
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Sep 21, 2013 14:57
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It seems like only very thin blades should be used on 3 wheel bandsaws because of the tight bend radius
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Sep 21, 2013 16:47
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wormil posted:I've been told the 3 wheelers tend to break blades. Any problem with that ExplodingSims? I've had one blade break so far, but in all fairness that one was like 20 years old when I got it so that might have something to do with it. I've been running the second one for almost 6 months now with no problems though, so it seems to be ok.
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Sep 21, 2013 19:56
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wormil posted:I've been told the 3 wheelers tend to break blades. Any problem with that ExplodingSims? I have a 3 wheeler I bought used and so far have only broke the blade it came with, who knows how old that one was though. I've been using my current blade for probably 5 months now.
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Sep 21, 2013 22:10
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I went to the Mid-West Tool Collectors Mtg today. Tom Lie-Nielson was the guest speaker and gave a slide show on how they make hand planes. Roy Underhill, Pete Ross (blacksmith), and Ed Lebetkin (runs the tool store above The Woodwrights Shop) were all there. I bought some Keystone/Disston carbon steel lathe tools which came in a box along with a bunch of other crap... homemade lathe tools and such. Once sharpened they cut nicely, leaving a very smooth finish. Ed Hobbes hosted the meeting and when he saw my Goodell Pratt t-shirt (yes I am a tool nerd), rushed me in to see his collection of treadle powered machines. Today was a good day.
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Sep 21, 2013 22:16
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Picked up a 1958 Delta jointer for 30 bucks today! Score! Missing one hand lock knob, guard small parts and spring, motor and stand. Found the original owners manual (the internet is amazing) and it specs a 60hz 1725rpm motor with a 7" pulley; hoping to find one at the salvage yard. Will build a wood stand hopefully with some dust collection  What's the deal with the second hole in the table? (Ones for the guard). The diagram in the manual doesn't show anything going in to it Also, I'd like to replace the bearings. Any tips of removal? Seems like I'd need a puller of some sort. Never done bearings like this before Edit: Youtube video on bearing replacement https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=D0eTfL2O8K4 Again, the internet is amazing dwoloz fucked around with this message at 05:30 on Sep 22, 2013 |
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Sep 22, 2013 05:21
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dwoloz posted:Picked up a 1958 Delta jointer for 30 bucks today! Score! Sweet deal. Auction find or what? Don't know if you saw my post about fake cast iron bases but this would be a good project for it. http://forums.somethingawful.com/showthread.php?noseen=0&threadid=2819334&perpage=40&pagenumber=156#post419601286
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Sep 22, 2013 06:23
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I have the the same (or very similar) jointer. You didn't lose much by not getting the stand. Whatever you build will probably be much sturdier. I don't know of any accessories for that second hole.
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Sep 22, 2013 14:13
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They guy I bought the band saw from yesterday had a radial arm saw with a drill chuck sticking horizontally out the side of the motor. What would that be for?
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Sep 22, 2013 16:39
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wormil posted:Sweet deal. Auction find or what? Found it on Craigslist, got lucky. I have a bunch of saved searches as RSS for things Im looking for. Thanks for the link; that base is amazing. Almost as good as the original art deco cast iron (almost as heavy too) Update: Started messing around with the jointer some more piecing it together and noticed a chunk of metal rod in the parts box the guy gave me. Pretty sure these were once one  gently caress. Options? This is the adjusting screw to control the outfeed table. The break seemed to occur where there used to be a roll-pin which I think stopped against the front of the machine casting to keep the screw in place (and move the internal part) Edit: Found a JET adusting screw that looks similar but doubt it would fit http://www.ereplacementparts.com/adjusting-screw-p-439867.html dwoloz fucked around with this message at 20:31 on Sep 22, 2013 |
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Sep 22, 2013 17:38
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wormil posted:They guy I bought the band saw from yesterday had a radial arm saw with a drill chuck sticking horizontally out the side of the motor. What would that be for? Radial arm saws were the multi tools of the day. There are usually two shafts on the motor side, one is motor speed, and one is 10k rpm or so. There were collets to hold router bits, chucks to hold drill bits, sanding disks, etc. You can flip the motor perpendicular to the table and use the crank to run it up and down. You can imagine how much of a pain it would be.
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Sep 22, 2013 19:37
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I am considering a project using 1/2" plywood. I need to cut it in strips 7" wide, but I have no access to a table saw (and I suck with a circular saw). I've seen ripping stations at places like Home Depot. Does anybody know how accurate a cut they can make?
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Sep 22, 2013 19:58
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About as accurate as they are careful.
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Sep 22, 2013 20:01
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One Legged Ninja posted:Radial arm saws were the multi tools of the day. There are usually two shafts on the motor side, one is motor speed, and one is 10k rpm or so. There were collets to hold router bits, chucks to hold drill bits, sanding disks, etc. You can flip the motor perpendicular to the table and use the crank to run it up and down. You can imagine how much of a pain it would be. Ah, flipping the motor explains it. The only RAS I've used was a big Delta/Rockwell 3ph and it had no such craziness. dwoloz posted:Edit: Found a JET adusting screw that looks similar but doubt it would fit What is the model#? Did you try http://www.mikestools.com/Delta-Jointers-Parts-Lists_2284.aspx.
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Sep 22, 2013 20:40
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wormil posted:What is the model#? Model 37-220 The replacement part sites list it as part# 418-03-112-0002 and not available 
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Sep 22, 2013 23:22
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dwoloz posted:Model 37-220 This it? http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=161107715869 Edit: all cleaned up except I took the open pics before cleaning the guide. It's all shiny now.     
wormil fucked around with this message at 01:17 on Sep 23, 2013 |
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Sep 23, 2013 01:08
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You have no idea how jealous I am that you can pick up a bandsaw for less than $100.
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Sep 24, 2013 02:00
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Frogmanv2 posted:You have no idea how jealous I am that you can pick up a bandsaw for less than $100. Where do you live? Around here, finding a bandsaw for under $100 is easy. Getting it before someone else is nearly impossible. I called/emailed about a lot of bandsaws >$200 over a 2 month span and this is the only one I got the chance to buy. I really wanted a 14" vintage saw but got tired of waiting and though this is only a 9" saw, it works perfectly and was cheap. The motor will need to be upgraded though, 1/4 HP isn't cutting it.
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Sep 24, 2013 03:55
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wormil posted:1/4 HP isn't cutting it. HAR HAR HAR
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Sep 24, 2013 03:57
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wormil posted:Where do you live? Around here, finding a bandsaw for under $100 is easy. Im moving to a town called Albany. On gumtree (our sort of craigslist) the closest bandsaw for sale is 350km away and is $550 for a 14" model.
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Sep 24, 2013 12:17
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Frogmanv2 posted:Australia. When are they going to officially change the name to "Price-gouge-istan"? It seems that anything hobby related in Australia is 3-5x more than anywhere else on earth. I guess having a small population on the far side of the planet from the majority of electrically-powered hobby woodworkers doesn't help.
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Sep 24, 2013 13:05
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Another turning question: No matter how careful I am, I can't help but leave rings on the insides of my bowls, usually close to the rim or where the sides begin flattening into the bottom- or both. Is this an issue of inexperience? RPM? The tool? I've just been using a bowl gouge- should I invest in one of those circle-head carbide cutters?
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Sep 24, 2013 13:27
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Blistex posted:When are they going to officially change the name to "Price-gouge-istan"? It seems that anything hobby related in Australia is 3-5x more than anywhere else on earth. I guess having a small population on the far side of the planet from the majority of electrically-powered hobby woodworkers doesn't help. Its really hosed sometimes. If I go to the Adobe website and buy the US version of something and download it and install it, its usually about a 40% discount to the Australian website version. Adobe came out and said that the price differential was because of the localisation options they have built into the website. Its slowly, glacially slowly, getting better. I still get loving jealous when you jerks say poo poo like "I picked up a router for $20" or "Around here, finding a bandsaw for under $100 is easy." or "there was 3 pages of craigslist entries, and I have narrowed my search down to these ones......" Of course, the up side of this is that I dont live in America.
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Sep 24, 2013 13:44
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Stavrogin posted:Another turning question: No matter how careful I am, I can't help but leave rings on the insides of my bowls, usually close to the rim or where the sides begin flattening into the bottom- or both. Is this an issue of inexperience? RPM? The tool? I've just been using a bowl gouge- should I invest in one of those circle-head carbide cutters? I'm not the best person to answer this because I'm still learning but I suspect the bevel is rising off the wood and causing the rings. I have carbide and steel scrapers and they do leave a nice finish, particularly the steel. Bowl gouges cut much faster though.
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Sep 24, 2013 16:02
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wormil posted:I'm not the best person to answer this because I'm still learning but I suspect the bevel is rising off the wood and causing the rings. I have carbide and steel scrapers and they do leave a nice finish, particularly the steel. Bowl gouges cut much faster though. So... rough with the bowl gouge, finish with the scraper?
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Sep 24, 2013 18:16
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More chainsaw milling posts from me.   Bookmatched a piece of white pine  Milled a flat, rotated the log 90 degrees and milled it in half 90 degrees to the first face, then they'll get sandwiched together on some locust sills and hey, it's a bridge! Coming soon, I'm going to be milling hundreds of feet worth of black walnut, white oak and locust into 3'x ~8" x 4" decking for lots and lots of PT bridges that look like this 
Hypnolobster fucked around with this message at 23:34 on Sep 24, 2013 |
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Sep 24, 2013 23:31
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That is hot poo poo. I definitely approve, even if your log doesn't:
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Sep 25, 2013 01:15
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Hypnolobster posted:More chainsaw milling posts from me. is this hard to do? I've got a lot of smaller fallen trees (early summer rains = trees fallin over apparently) most around 12-24" across, and I'd like to use them for decking instead of paying for wood.
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Sep 25, 2013 01:52
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It takes some careful layout to setup and get accurate cuts, but mostly it takes some skill with sharpening chain and setting up saws so they don't burn up under the pretty ridiculous stress of milling. It's really not ideal for milling at all, but it's extremely portable and if you're good with the setup, it's really fast. All told, there's about $2200 worth of lightly modded chainsaw and mill right there, and it's pretty much the minimum setup for milling easily. A very big chainsaw is really important, milling takes tons of horsepower. If you get a great chainsaw (think Stihl 660 or larger such as an old 084, 088, 090, or current 880) and ripping chain and learn to sharpen it and tune the saw a tad rich for milling, the actual milling stuff can be had for ~$300 if you use 2x4's for slabbing rails and just buy a Granberg Alaskan mill. Chainsaw milling out decking the easy way also gives you flatsawn lumber, which is pretty mediocre for lots of things vs quartersawn. That said, it's also really fun and can turn into a crazy hobby. Check out this forum: http://www.arboristsite.com/milling-saw-mills/
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Sep 25, 2013 02:15
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