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Yerok posted:FCR install on the DRZ went pretty good, should have checked the AP timing before buttoning it up though. Looks like that's gonna need a bit of adjustment as well as the fuel screw. There's a tiny stumble from the AP and the acceleration, while way better than the Mikuni ever was, isn't as brutal as I'd like. Thats the AP, which I need to adjust on mine as well, but havent gotten around to it yet.
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Sep 10, 2013 02:26
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I'm gonna see if I can use my phone to look down the intake tube and watch the AP squirt so I don't have to unbolt the subframe again haha. The stumble seems to be the worst when the engine is nice and hot, if there are any carb wizards reading this.
Yerok fucked around with this message at 04:24 on Sep 10, 2013 |
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Sep 10, 2013 04:21
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Yerok posted:I'm gonna see if I can use my phone to look down the intake tube and watch the AP squirt so I don't have to unbolt the subframe again haha. The stumble seems to be the worst when the engine is nice and hot, if there are any carb wizards reading this. I know you mentioned it, but have you set the fuel screw properly? Sorry, I'm not familiar with adjusting the AP squirt, I'm too busy with my fuel injection  and trying to figure out goddamn fuel maps
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Sep 10, 2013 04:59
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The fuel screw is at 2 turns out as per ThumperTalk jetting recommendations, so it's very close but not perfect. The stumble is unmistakably the result of a poorly timed accelerator pump because it lasts a split second then clears up right away. I'm sure I could be wrong, the only real place to start is with fixing the AP timing and going from there. I'm gonna order an R&D flex fuel screw tonight to make for easier adjustments.
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Sep 10, 2013 05:10
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Nidhg00670000 posted:It's all about engine design. There is nothing inherent in an engine configuration (v-twin, I4, boxer 6, thumper) that makes it "torquier" or "rev happier". A 600 thumper will, quite naturally, have a larger bore and stroke than a 600 i4. This means a heavier piston assy, a higher mean piston speed, and so on. Flywheels and crankshafts also have to be relatively heavier than on a better balanced engine. All this lends itself to a lower rpm register, which in itself means it's more economical to build a thumper with more torque down low then a high strung horsepower monster, but with enough time and money, you could theoretically make a 600 thumper that revs like an i4 600. When I say "rev the tits off", I mean "keep it above 3000-3500rpm". It only revs to 7000rpm, so it's all relative. It'll pull fine from idle like any good thumper should, but it's so much smoother higher in the rev range. I guess it was just my mindset of thumper = tractor that stopped me from revving it more and made me run in too high a gear for the speed I was going. I'm much more comfortable just revving it out now and shifting when I feel the power start to drop off.
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Sep 10, 2013 09:37
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Holy poo poo the stock DRZ fender is terrible in the rain.
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Sep 15, 2013 19:58
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Wait til you try the sumo fender. Hope you enjoy the entire front of your jacket / jeans being soaked through.
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Sep 15, 2013 20:01
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I was gonna get an Acerbis one but now I don't know. If the stock SM fender is this bad then I can only assume the aftermarket ones are like water funnels
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Sep 15, 2013 20:23
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It's fun riding with it in the wet when it's dark. You can see the steady stream of water coming off the tip of the fender, into the light beam as it hits the wind, coming back straight on to your chest.
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Sep 15, 2013 20:24
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No way, it's totally worth it not to have the front end get squirrely at like 50mph. Get the sumo fender.
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Sep 15, 2013 20:26
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JP Money posted:No way, it's totally worth it not to have the front end get squirrely at like 50mph. Get the sumo fender. You are 100% right. Also Nidhg, that's exactly what happened to me last night. I need those gloves with the windshield wiper finger.
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Sep 15, 2013 21:28
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Unless it's barely sprinkling I just make sure I have a complete change of clothes in my backpack to take to work. Sitting upright with all that water flinging up onto you just means it's going to run down the front of your jacket onto your pants. It sucks.
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Sep 15, 2013 21:35
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The sm fender, despite its downfalls in the rain is the best for highway riding. Either way, sitting upright and being as exposed as you are, you're getting wet in the rain on the drz, regardless of fender choice Beve Stuscemi fucked around with this message at 22:41 on Sep 15, 2013 |
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Sep 15, 2013 22:21
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Yeah, I was leaving my buddy's house last night after it started raining and explained to him that sitting upright in the rain gets you soaked no matter what.
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Sep 15, 2013 22:27
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JP Money posted:Unless it's barely sprinkling I just make sure I have a complete change of clothes in my backpack to take to work. Sitting upright with all that water flinging up onto you just means it's going to run down the front of your jacket onto your pants. It sucks.
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Sep 15, 2013 22:56
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I like arriving at my friends house, looking like I pissed myself.
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Sep 15, 2013 23:18
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Yerok posted:You are 100% right. Also Nidhg, that's exactly what happened to me last night. I need those gloves with the windshield wiper finger. I have a pair of Icon gloves with the visor wiper and the Acerbis fender but I haven't had occasion to ride with both at the same time, since I just got the fender and the gloves are my cold-weather gloves. The first time I rode in the rain with the Acerbis fender it wouldn't have mattered what fender was on there, because the rain was absolutely hammering down, along with purple lightning. THe only dry spot on my entire body was the part where my riding jacket covered the top of the back of my pants. Literally every other part of me from head to toe was soaked. All said, the Acerbis fender is a great improvement for highway speeds compared to the stock piece. There is noticeably less wind drag on it.
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Sep 15, 2013 23:22
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Toot Toot. After a few months of DRZ inaction, I'll finally be getting around to fitting the new engine. Engine purchased, sitting in my best mate's garage. I have new oil & filter (and horn, the other one just scraped through the MOT). I have a willing friend and a weekend off. Apart from doing suspension springs on a few cars, this'll be the largest mechanical job I've ever done.
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Sep 19, 2013 07:49
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Just another great day riding in the rain on the crotch water funnel. Super glad I just bought a new helmet that has a visor and good anti-fog yesterday.
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Sep 19, 2013 23:48
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Yerok posted:Just another great day riding in the rain on the crotch water funnel. Super glad I just bought a new helmet that has a visor and good anti-fog yesterday. Two weeks ago I got fed up by all the halos and removed my anti fog insert. It was heaven for two weeks and then autumn came. I also wear glasses.
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Sep 20, 2013 12:01
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Um, am I correct in thinking I'll need to remove the rear swing arm pivot to get this engine out? drat DRZ. Halfway through stripping this bike. *edit* turns out we do need to remove that bolt, and it was jammed in good and tight. Lots of corrosion. Searching the Internet turned up a lot of people talking about making a puller. Having attacked it with copious amounts of penetrant, it looked to to the hardware store we were going. One last bash on the threaded rod/nut combo I put in to protect the threads . . . and it started moving! Yay! End of day 1. Old engine out. Clutch cover on new engine replaced with good clutch cover from old (drat shipping damage). New engine cleaned; looked like it had been off-roaded with. Orange Someone fucked around with this message at 16:43 on Sep 21, 2013 |
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Sep 21, 2013 11:59
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So if the combination of the FCR 39 and a Yosh exhaust doesn't pop at all when downshifting hard it's probably too rich, right?
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Sep 21, 2013 18:49
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KARMA! posted:Two weeks ago I got fed up by all the halos and removed my anti fog insert. It was heaven for two weeks and then autumn came. I gave up on anti fog inserts when I got glasses, doesn't really matter what actually fogs up if I still can't see poo poo. Parts guy gave me a recommendation for some kind of anti fog gel, but they didn't sell it so I haven't tried it. Name was something like Blaze, it wasn't one of the usual like rain x or plexus. Edit: Looks like it was Blaze, just found the website. Haven't tried it but they claim safe for lexan and polycarbonate, going to order a bottle. Hoping it works as advertised because I have the same issues with my SCBA mask and safety glasses on cold days. There's a ton of jetting information for the FCR on Thumpertalk, do you know how it is jetted currently? drzrma fucked around with this message at 19:16 on Sep 21, 2013 |
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Sep 21, 2013 19:12
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Yerok posted:So if the combination of the FCR 39 and a Yosh exhaust doesn't pop at all when downshifting hard it's probably too rich, right? Probably, but how is it running?
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Sep 21, 2013 19:15
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Boom! New engine in. Only forgot to do up one jubilee clip (that was quickly noticed when pink coolant started dripping over the floor). Even remembered where everything went. Slight issues starting the first time, but a new spark plug (although the old one was sparking) and some Easy Start (ether spray) made her start. Idled fairly easily, not so happy in gear on the stands. Oh well, it was a good weekend. Now back to work until I can find a spare weekend to finish.
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Sep 23, 2013 01:15
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Right now it's running 45 pilot, no pilot air jet, clip 3 EMN needle, 160 main. The AP cam has the o-ring mod, but I'm considering getting a bowl with leak jet adjustment. I'm in Madison, WI so I'm basically at sea level. 3x3 and full Yosh RS2 as far as intake and exhaust mods. It's running pretty good, seems a bit down on power though. It doesn't seem like it wants to lift the front end when you get on the throttle like it should in first and second. I think it's probably the AP, but I'm not really sure.
Yerok fucked around with this message at 01:58 on Sep 23, 2013 |
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Sep 23, 2013 01:54
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I put off doing the oil on my DRZfor the longest because  but turns out its so braindead easy that it's laughable.I noticed when I did the oil filter that the PO seemed to have lost the little rubber seal that goes on the side opposite the spring cap. I didnt have anything to use in the interim so I put it back as-is and unless you guys tell me thats a BAD loving IDEA I plan to just continue as-is until I do the next change. Big mistake?
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Sep 23, 2013 03:10
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Its just a standard o-ring, nothing special. As long as it was in good shape, it should be fine. You should technically be replacing that, the gian o-ring that goes around the flter cover and the two crush washers every time, but no one does.
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Sep 23, 2013 14:39
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Jim Silly-Balls posted:Its just a standard o-ring, nothing special. As long as it was in good shape, it should be fine. You should technically be replacing that, the gian o-ring that goes around the flter cover and the two crush washers every time, but no one does. I think he's saying it's missing, not old. Tell me more about those crush washers though. I didn't replace them despite the dire warnings in my guide about them Did my first change on the DRZ this summer and noticed the same ring was gone. I just threw it back together without it. About 500 miles later everything seems fine, but at least we're going down together, right? edit: VV yeah, that ought ten fucked around with this message at 19:15 on Sep 23, 2013 |
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Sep 23, 2013 15:26
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I don't know about them freezing (do you mean seizing?) but re-using a crush washer may result in it not sealing properly and it possibly backing out and dumping the contents of your sump over the road/tyre/precious-mother-earth. The copper is soft when it's new, but when you squish it down with the drain plug it work-hardens, so if you re-use it then it wont have much squishy-ness left. However, you can anneal (re-soften) a copper washer with a blow torch or even a household gas hob. Hang it on a length of wire and heat it up until it glows cherry-red, then dunk it in a suitable body of cold water.
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Sep 23, 2013 15:47
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ought ten posted:I think he's saying it's missing, not old. Tell me more about those crush washers though. I didn't replace them despite the dire warnings in my guide about them freezing and then I'd have to replace the whole engine. Overblown? Oh, yeah, didnt get that. If its missing, replace it, as a decent amount of oil will just bypass the filter altogether. Some will still go through, but there is nothing there to direct oil through the filter without that o-ring.
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Sep 23, 2013 16:08
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Jim Silly-Balls posted:Oh, yeah, didnt get that. If its missing, replace it, as a decent amount of oil will just bypass the filter altogether. Well that's not what I wanted to hear at all.
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Sep 23, 2013 19:16
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I expected as much. I guess I am due for another oil change as soon as I get the part. 
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Sep 23, 2013 19:19
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I'd just lean the bike over against a table or something and just throw the o-ring on real quick. Go find one that will fit over the stem in the cover. Use the little weep screw to drain oil left in the cover and then go to town replacing it. No need to drop all your oil imo. Letting it sit for a while should drain most of it back down into the case anyhow I'd think.
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Sep 23, 2013 20:21
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What's the general consensus on the 640 supermoto? I've always lusted after the 690 but the chances of stumbling across one used are essentially nil here (east coast canada). I saw an '07 SXV a few months ago but was promptly scared away by the maintenance intervals.. Coming from a DRZ would this be much of an upgrade? How are they reliability wise? I have a car and a second bike so a shorter and more involved maintenance schedule wouldn`t be a deal breaker, but I certainly don`t want to stray into "measured in hours" territory.. The bike in question
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Sep 24, 2013 13:12
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Niven posted:What's the general consensus on the 640 supermoto? I've always lusted after the 690 but the chances of stumbling across one used are essentially nil here (east coast canada). Service interval for the LC4 is generally every 5000km or yearly, not too bad. Only the kickstart-only "Competition" versions have service intervals measured in hours.
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Sep 24, 2013 13:28
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Holy crap I didn't see this thread. Cross posting from the Questions thread. I'm buying a drz400sm  and I'm preeeeeetty excited  It needs new tires. I know nothing about tires. I'm not riding any dirt at all, so is there a default sticky street tire I can go for? Tubes, or tubeless? 
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Sep 25, 2013 16:50
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epalm posted:Holy crap I didn't see this thread. Cross posting from the Questions thread. Throw a going away party for your license, let him know he'll be missed.
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Sep 25, 2013 16:57
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Your rims type will determine whether you can run tubeless. Most drz rims seem to be spoked which usually means you'll be running tubes, but you can reuse the existing tube without issue. Pilot Power 3 are the recommended 17/17 tyres if you're going to be sticking to streets.
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Sep 25, 2013 16:58
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You'd be surprised how little attention sumo's get from police unless you're literally caught doing a wheelie or something. I never get a second glance from police. When I had my R6 I'd get pulled over about once a month for something stupid when I wasn't even speeding. Maybe it's just my area but I think cops see the dirtbike and just assume you're not going to be speeding or anything despite the fact that you're riding wheelies and speeding on ever back road you can find. E: Like I recommended in the other thread I'd just get regular pilot powers. I'd be absolutely shocked if you could outride those on the street. I don't think you need an even stickier tire so you could save a bit of money there. I don't know about the durability of the PP3's though. If they last longer it's probably worth spending a few dollars more. Baller Witness Bro fucked around with this message at 17:04 on Sep 25, 2013 |
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Sep 25, 2013 17:01
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