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Zigs, was your dccdpro install on a 5mt or 6mt?
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Sep 25, 2013 06:52
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The guy I talked to @ Rocket Rally didn't seem to think it'd be an issue, but he's going to talk to Pat and find out.
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Sep 25, 2013 19:36
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Advice/Anecdotal wisdom requested: I've been driving company cars for the last 10 years, so I've never had to worry about having a commuter-oriented car. I own and drive a 2011 Nissan Titan Pro 4X on the weekends, and enjoy it (I like to camp, do a lot of mountain biking, etc). My company recently switched to a car allowance + gas card setup, so I've been driving my Titan to work every day. Being paid for my own car + free gas sounds great, but I live 80 miles from my office, so I'm throwing oodles of miles on my truck. Tires, maintenance, and depreciation suck, so I'm looking into other options. I'm thinking of either replacing my truck with something more economical or just adding a commuter to my garage alongside it. No matter how many other cars I consider, I keep coming back to the Outback as the best compromise, and would like some feedback. I'd rather not buy new because I'll be hitting the thing with a million miles out of the gate and the warranty will be useless for the most part. I can buy a 2010 with 50k/miles for about $17k, and if it can last to 250k I'll get 4 years out of it and be happy. How reliable in general are the 2010-2011 outbacks if I'm looking to put 50k/yr on one for a 4 year usable lifespan? Any major issues? Anything to look for when shopping for one? Any reason to get the auto over the stick? I'd like a stick as I haven't owned one in a while and I don't hit any traffic on my long commute, so it wouldn't be a chore at all. Any other options for my needs?
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Sep 25, 2013 22:21
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Pretty good. 2010 is about when they finally started putting metal headgaskets in the ej25. So they won't blow up. Not sure when they started using the new 2.0 engine and cvt but that combo gets REALLY good mileage. Only reason to get an auto would be if you want a 6 cylinder (great engine, makes about 250hp), because they don't pair them with manuals as far as I know.
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Sep 25, 2013 22:27
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A decent place to get information on Outbacks is http://www.subaruoutback.org/forums/ They are on their second generation of the CVT. The first version had issues in some with shifting into reverse after a while. From what I can tell, Subaru did right by the owners on these and made revisions to prevent the problem on the 2nd generation. The 2nd generation is available from 2013 and up. If you get a manual, and there is no reason not to unless you want the 6cyl or your SO can't drive stick, then as far as I know they are all the same from this generation of Outback. My wife's 2013(limited w/CVT) gets decent mileage on road trips for the size and the fact that it is loaded down with all our crap.
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Sep 25, 2013 23:49
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I quit my soul-sucking restaurant management job and got a soul-sucking job selling Subarus. Just kidding, this job rules. If you've got any questions on the new model or questions on buying a Subaru, I'd be happy to help! I had a new exhaust installed on my 2011 WRX last week. It's a homemade contraption that sounds seriously excellent, but I'm sure the rest of the town would disagree because everyone probably hears me leave for work at 6:30 am.
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Sep 26, 2013 01:50
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The plug on the water pump has been leaking moderately (read: manageable but always smells like burning coolant) so I purchased the correct pump and installed it this past weekend. This time around I purchased a Beck/Arnley pump, part #1312445 (http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/moreinfo.php?pk=4752291&cc=1440451). I also used a Beck/Arnley gasket, part #0394165 (http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/moreinfo.php?pk=1999454&cc=1440451), which is a steel gasket and doesn't require using RTV during assembly. Starting the process... again. This time around was faster obviously, now knowing exactly what to expect and the little "gotchas" I ran into last time.  Drained the coolant and pulled the radiator.  Belts off and ready to remove the timing belt cover.  Timing pulleys and belt off. Water pump removed. I used the gasket that came with the Gates pump last time, which required RTV to be applied. Sealed well but a pain to clean off the block.  New pump in. Hazzah!  Pulleys reinstalled, timing set.  Cover and accessory belts reinstalled.  Radiator back in and hoses hooked up. I filled the engine with coolant and noticed a small leak from the thermostat housing.  Drain it again (I'm getting good at this by now) and remove the housing. It had some serious pitting along where the thermostat gasket seals so I cleaned up the surface. OooOoo... Shiny. Reassembled and filled. Everything is A OK. So now I have this 3 port water pump just kickin' around that I'll never use. It came with a Gates Timing Belt Kit, part #TCKWP328SF (http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/moreinfo.php?pk=4374219&cc=1440451). I believe it is a Gates 43548 (http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/moreinfo.php?pk=1390517&cc=1440451) but there are no markings on the pump to confirm this. I originally received two gasket sets with it so I even have the matching gasket set! Note that the description for the pump says the gasket is a "No Sealant Required" gasket but the instructions that came with the pump indicated that a thin layer of RTV should be applied to both sides of the gasket prior to installation. Throw me a few bucks and pay for shipping and I'll send this your way! I'd like to see it go to use somewhere rather than sit around collecting dust.   Edit: Forgot to mention the pump only has about 1000 miles on it. Frankenstein fucked around with this message at 19:39 on Sep 26, 2013 |
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Sep 26, 2013 12:21
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jamal posted:Only reason to get an auto would be if you want a 6 cylinder (great engine, makes about 250hp), because they don't pair them with manuals as far as I know. They don't on the new ones, it was the first thing I asked for. 
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Sep 26, 2013 17:48
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No H6 has come with a manual behind it except maybe the old irrelevant EA motors. EG33 EZ30D EZ30R EZ36R = no row your own gears. edit: should have clarified in the USDM market... Slow is Fast fucked around with this message at 22:13 on Sep 26, 2013 |
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Sep 26, 2013 18:28
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Slow is Fast posted:No H6 has come with a manual behind it except maybe the old irrelevant EA motors. EG33 EZ30D EZ30R EZ36R = no row your own gears. Unless you're Dyne 
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Sep 26, 2013 19:36
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Slow is Fast posted:No H6 has come with a manual behind it except maybe the old irrelevant EA motors. EG33 EZ30D EZ30R EZ36R = no row your own gears. Inexplicably Australia got a 6-speed manual behind their 3.0R Liberty, but North America was left out. Probably because our hambeast hamfists would ruin it, more likely because SoA didn't want to deal with recertifying it for everything.
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Sep 26, 2013 19:42
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Sockington posted:Unless you're Dyne And it's great 
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Sep 26, 2013 23:00
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I started the motor! 02 WRX swap into my wagon rally car! Open downpipe so turn down your volume. I love it! The ignition key didn't want to start it so I had to jump the starter. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6fCngauy098 https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wnaHpFJEOtY
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Sep 27, 2013 16:29
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Okay after making the exhaust quiet, I notice this strange rattle/buzz coming from near the turbo. Any ideas? All heatshields have been taken off, up-pipe is catless. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=G7gWfzPmw-c
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Sep 27, 2013 21:18
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Sounds kind of like a leak. Maybe the welds on that downpipe or the flange isn't sealing fully.
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Sep 27, 2013 21:33
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jamal posted:Sounds kind of like a leak. Maybe the welds on that downpipe or the flange isn't sealing fully. Aha! If I play with the wastegate actuator arm, and push down in the right spot, the noise goes away completley. Now how to fix..
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Sep 27, 2013 21:52
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Tighten up the arm? Or maybe those aren't threaded. You could possibly bend the bracket a touch. It might just go away when the car gets warmed up.
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Sep 27, 2013 21:55
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jamal posted:Tighten up the arm? Or maybe those aren't threaded. You could possibly bend the bracket a touch. It might just go away when the car gets warmed up. Bam! Tightened the arm up and now it sounds loving sweet. Thanks!
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Sep 27, 2013 22:27
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Seat Safety Switch posted:Inexplicably Australia got a 6-speed manual behind their 3.0R Liberty, but North America was left out. Probably because our hambeast hamfists would ruin it, more likely because SoA didn't want to deal with recertifying it for everything. And it's a sweeeeeet setup too. I never understood why anyone wants to have a slushbox behind that motor, it's fun to rev out
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Sep 27, 2013 22:47
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So, follow up to my bad transfer case bearings. Had the repair done today, cost me about $900 because I needed a new driveshaft as well, which I was lucky my tuner had a used one for $150. They showed me the bearings, two of them (the ones that are connected to the driveshaft) had nicks all over their "rollers". All in all, I regret going back to regular gear oil and I'm kicking myself for not using the Andrewtech Cocktail again.
Yakattak fucked around with this message at 00:21 on Sep 28, 2013 |
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Sep 28, 2013 00:16
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Anyone know what the TPS voltage should be at idle and WOT on an ej20k? I think 0.5v->~5.0v but want to make sure. It's a three plug ECU so it's a positive voltage change as throttle is applied. Thanks in advance. Edit: Since I'm asking anyways, anyone know where you can find one of those pin-like probes that you can insert alongside a wire in a plug/connector to be able to read voltage off of it? Or what that would be called? Saw one in a youtube video and it looks like a game changer. VVV not the multimeter, this is a pin that you insert alongside the wire that's in a connector so you don't have to remove insulation along it to check the voltage. You'd be touching the multimeter probe to the pin once it's in place. VelociBacon fucked around with this message at 03:31 on Sep 28, 2013 |
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Sep 28, 2013 03:14
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That is a multimeter.
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Sep 28, 2013 03:27
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VelociBacon posted:
That's a multimeter with alligator clips attached to a sewing needle.
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Sep 28, 2013 04:25
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Heya! I have an 09 WRX and over the last 5 years and 67k miles the suspension has gone from pleasantly stiff to road bump X-RAY and i'd like to move that back in the other direction. What should I be looking to replace achieve this goal? I've traditionally sold my cars before they get to this point but I want to keep this thing longer.
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Sep 28, 2013 23:22
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Maybe in the stupid question thread, but what do you guys think my 06 9-2x Aero 5mt is worth on the market? Very good condition, HIDs, leather, OEM 17s (all options except sunroof, basically), 69k miles. KBB says 12ish but I'm seeing worse ones for similar or higher. I have to inventory all my assets for something; not planning on selling anytime soon.
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Sep 28, 2013 23:25
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Qapf posted:Heya! I have an 09 WRX and over the last 5 years and 67k miles the suspension has gone from pleasantly stiff to road bump X-RAY and i'd like to move that back in the other direction. Oem suspension and stock sized wheels? New dampers. OEM-type or bilstiens would be my rec.
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Sep 28, 2013 23:52
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nm posted:Oem suspension and stock sized wheels? Yes and yes Edit: Something like these things? http://cygnusperformance.com/cart.php?target=product&product_id=1341&category_id=187 and should I look to getting the springs they are pimping as well? Qapf fucked around with this message at 00:11 on Sep 29, 2013 |
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Sep 29, 2013 00:05
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Yeah those are pretty good, and I know a guy who can get them for you. The stock 09 springs are a little on the soft side for those so I would definitely get the springs too. The other option would be konis, which are less, work ok with your existing springs, but require a little cutting and drilling to install the fronts.
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Sep 29, 2013 00:14
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jamal posted:Yeah those are pretty good, and I know a guy who can get them for you. The stock 09 springs are a little on the soft side for those so I would definitely get the springs too. The other option would be konis, which are less, work ok with your existing springs, but require a little cutting and drilling to install the fronts. And by a little cutting and drilling, a Sawzall with a long Metal cutting blade and a drill with a metal bit is really all you need. 3 beer job, tops.
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Sep 29, 2013 01:05
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I had an extra key made for my outback. It doesn't have the remote controls on it, it's just a key. Anyhow, my wife went to start the car tonight and suddenly, her key (full-featured, original) didn't work. I don't know if it worked before, but I assume it did. My key still works fine. The remote buttons (lock, unlock, etc.) all work fine on both our keys. When I had the new key made, I only gave them my key, hers was an hour away. So, when they make a new key like that, do they wipe the car's list of accepted signatures and just give it a new list based on the keys they have, or what? That's all I can come up with. Her key can turn on all the accessories and whatnot, but when you try to actually start the engine, it's unresponsive. I'm assuming it's because the car isn't accepting her key anymore and the interlock is preventing the car from starting, and I'm guessing that's because of the process they used for making the new key wiped it. Just curious if I'm way off base here. The place we got the car from is 45 minutes away and if this is messed up because they hosed it up or didn't tell me to bring ALL the keys, I'll be damned if I'm going to make an hour and a half round trip for that, they can work it out with the local dealer and I'll go there instead.
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Sep 29, 2013 02:23
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Bad Munki posted:I had an extra key made for my outback. It doesn't have the remote controls on it, it's just a key. Anyhow, my wife went to start the car tonight and suddenly, her key (full-featured, original) didn't work. I don't know if it worked before, but I assume it did. My key still works fine. The remote buttons (lock, unlock, etc.) all work fine on both our keys. When I had the new key made, I only gave them my key, hers was an hour away. So, when they make a new key like that, do they wipe the car's list of accepted signatures and just give it a new list based on the keys they have, or what? That's all I can come up with. Her key can turn on all the accessories and whatnot, but when you try to actually start the engine, it's unresponsive. I'm assuming it's because the car isn't accepting her key anymore and the interlock is preventing the car from starting, and I'm guessing that's because of the process they used for making the new key wiped it. You're probably right. Each make (and sometimes models and model years within makes) handles this differently. I believe Subarus dump all the keys and fobs when you add a new one, so you have to have all the keys and fobs you want to operate the car present when you add the new one.
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Sep 29, 2013 02:50
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Blah. That seems like something they might have mentioned, considering they sold me the car less than a week ago. Y'know, just "Okay, BRING ALL THE KEYS OR THE ONES YOU DON'T WON'T WORK." Sort of a critical detail. Although both fobs still work: we can unlock/lock/etc the car with both keys. Hers just won't start it.
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Sep 29, 2013 02:53
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Oh my god the Q300 was so easy to install and it sounds amazing and it's everything I ever wanted aaaa 
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Sep 29, 2013 22:07
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Nice. Good to hear.
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Sep 29, 2013 23:45
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Sold my first Subaru on Friday! I was hired for a non-sales position, but they let me go through the process of selling a BRZ to my friend so that I could get my first taste of car salesmanship.  The trade-in we got from him came with Eibach sways and a Cobb turboback exhaust. I offered to donate my stock parts if the dealership wanted to take the car back to stock for selling it.
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Sep 30, 2013 00:45
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So, this exists. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4uap7zZ9pLM
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Sep 30, 2013 13:55
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So the speed sensor on my impreza died, I got a mechanic to replace it amongst other things, apparently it must have been dying when the last owners sold the car and they couldn't figure it out, so their mechanic unplugged nearly all the sensors in the car and put most of them back wrong  . I'm hoping it was just an apprentice, couldn't that gently caress some poo poo up? The mechanic said apart from that the cars in excellent condition though which makes me happy.
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Sep 30, 2013 14:41
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A Saucy Bratwurst posted:So the speed sensor on my impreza died, I got a mechanic to replace it amongst other things, apparently it must have been dying when the last owners sold the car and they couldn't figure it out, so their mechanic unplugged nearly all the sensors in the car and put most of them back wrong You absolutely need to go back as soon as you can and get them to fix their mistakes. The longer you wait the less responsibility they'll be willing to take for it.
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Sep 30, 2013 15:41
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VelociBacon posted:You absolutely need to go back as soon as you can and get them to fix their mistakes. The longer you wait the less responsibility they'll be willing to take for it. It was the last owners mechanic and my mechanic said that the car is in far better shape than 90% of cars he sees at that age and doesn't appear to be worse for wear. The car is from interstate, should I still call them up?
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Sep 30, 2013 16:13
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A Saucy Bratwurst posted:It was the last owners mechanic and my mechanic said that the car is in far better shape than 90% of cars he sees at that age and doesn't appear to be worse for wear. The car is from interstate, should I still call them up? Sorry, I totally misread your post. I think it's a bit unreasonable to call up the previous shop at this point. I don't understand to be honest how a sensor could be put back on 'wrong' unless you mean that things like the IACV and such aren't adjusted correctly. What issues are these sensors causing? Or was this a typical case of your mechanic patting himself on the back at the expense of the 'other shop you went to'?
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Sep 30, 2013 16:20
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