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DropShadow posted:Congrats dude. Having your own garage to do car stuff is a life changer. Thanks. Now I just have to wait for my entire body to stop hurting from all the packing, cleaning, heaving lifting, and unpacking this past week so I can actually make use of it. Maybe come spring I'll start learning to do real car stuff, like changing my own oil.
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Sep 24, 2013 16:32
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Ferremit posted:freezer insanity I'll admit man.. that's freaking insane.. and awesome haha. Do you get stuff from here in Adelaide or from the internet?
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Sep 24, 2013 17:23
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trouser chili posted:In my experience with the passenger tank on my 74 IH pickup, the float simply dissolved as the gasoline inside the tank rotted. My tank was in seriously bad health though. This tank looks surprisingly good. Not a lot of buildup inside, compared to the drivers side tank that was like the great barrier reef. I ordered an entire new fuel pickup since the resistance readings were way out of spec, and they're hard to clean. What's odd is the other side had a corroded brass float, but it was there. I don't think that it would have switched to plastic at any point but it's hard to say. The drivers side tank had some plates welded to the frame to re-attach the straps, the passenger side looked normal, except it had two different hose clamps on the filler neck. I'm theorizing it was repaired at some point. Anyway, It'll go off to the shop to get cleaned and coated this weekend, and the new part comes in tomorrow. I'll even go through the wiring and clean out all contacts since it works based on resistance and more resistance reads as less fuel. Also - I don't have a trip odometer, so that's harder, fortunately the gauge works on one tank (mostly, full tank is 3/4 tank). Before that I used my fuel economy tracking app religiously, and never went more than 100 miles without a fill-up.
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Sep 24, 2013 18:16
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fingerling posted:I'll admit man.. that's freaking insane.. and awesome haha. Do you get stuff from here in Adelaide or from the internet? Fridge / freezer stuff? That can be got absolutely anywhere. Even where I live in this vast metropolis of 2000 people there's a dealer. Prices don't vary much either. Not that I have a compressor fridge  One day...Big garage sale last year someone who always has really high tier stuff for some reason had a couple of compressor 12/240v fridges unused $120 each and an Engel for not much more. I didn't have the money. Felt like the universe was bitch slapping me.
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Sep 24, 2013 21:53
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Ferremit posted:Not a huge one- Adelaide through Ngarkat and the Big Desert wilderness area for the long weekend in October. Sorry about the two posts. I hosed up. I see why you wanted the extra capacity there. I'm also kind of jealous that you say you can get about 600km out of 90L under those conditions. Figured that's why you got two of them. What's your setup for handling the draw of two? My thing for today hasn't happened yet. I was going to go out and put in the better fitting fuel filter but realised I have the Niva parked on the big lump of dirt in the yard facing downhill with an essentially full tank and everyone else is still asleep so it's not getting started. Until I get the shits and decide to do it anyway. Funny thing about it all is I like the $4 fuel filter better than the $16 or whatever it was one. The $4 one is transparent and was the only one with the midrange size between the two Ryco ones. Parts places in Australia are a bloody joke these days.
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Sep 24, 2013 22:00
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 I'll shift the silver one to the rear seats on a false floor (60/40 split rears, the single seat gets kicked out and a fridge goes in its place) later. Both are fed off a big N70 100AH AGM battery with a Redarc dividing it from the crank battery. Engels are loving awesome- They use the Sawafuji swing motor http://www.engelaustralia.com.au/about_SwingMotor.asp and draw gently caress all current- if BOTH fridges start simultanously it will draw 5A of current, when both are running, its a 1A draw- .5A each. I tend to buy my bits all over the place- Most of the big heavy poo poo I'll buy locally in Adelaide- All the ARB gear (so the bar work, long range tank, suspension, snork etc) I bought locally because once you spend over $15K at an ARB store, the store owner tends to look after you really well on price. The fridge I bought locally because they're expensive to ship due to size. The other stuff like the winch bits and the extra genuine parts ive bolted to it I get off the net- I can get genuine toyota parts from Dubai and Japan for a fraction of the genuine price, and I bought the winch motor and controller from the US off Amazon because even with international freight and the exchange rate, it was 2/3 the Aus price!
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Sep 25, 2013 10:44
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You make me miss my FZJ80.
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Sep 25, 2013 21:24
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Drained/filled my suspension fluid. Snapped a bolt that holds the filter into the tank while I was doing it. Had to disassemble half the car to get the tank out to remove the broken stud because of it's lovely position. Got blasted in hydraulic oil. Showered 3 times. Still smell like oil. gently caress you bolt.
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Sep 25, 2013 23:09
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Drove it around town a bit. Replaced the fuel filter with a properly fitting one. Greased the splines on the rear propshaft which got rid of the gearchange bang thankfully. Couldn't grease anything else because the pre-existing nipples were slightly smaller or something as opposed to the rear propshaft one which I screwed in temporarily to do the job. Didn't replace the brake fluid reservoir, which should have been here by yesterday at the latest but the seller only listed as being sent yesterday evening. If it was only sent yesterday I'm going to be even more pissed off. It's kind of hosed up the school holidays which are nearly half gone. It'll be here probably next Tuesday or Wednesday if that's the case. Ferremit posted:
That's a really good setup. But then it'd want to be given that you get what you pay for and you've definitely paid for it. Sometimes I wonder if you are actually an ARB rep, but I think you just walked out with their store inventory one day. It's amazing how much cheaper OE parts are when sourced from elsewhere. I still have to do the whole rockauto parts order for the Ford @ ~10% of what the parts would cost me in Australia. Cars are one of the biggest scams. Along with solar power. Wish those fuckers would leave me alone. The phone calls are bad enough, but I got bailed up by a lady when I was in the yard. She spotted me from a distance and came running. Just wearing a T shirt and jeans. Very casual attire. I was totally confused by the whole thing, especially when she greeted me and started on about solar power.
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Sep 26, 2013 00:03
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Installed this, a crude but perfectly fitting bypass valve delete plug!  custom made by one of the engineers at my office, in exchange for doing some work on his daughter's laptop. Will probably clean up vac hoses tonight then take a picture of it installed.
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Sep 26, 2013 01:50
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Mom's Avalon was still rocking the original ~2002 headlight bulbs (2003 model year, built at the tail end of 2002). They were incredibly dim, glass was heavily blackened, etc. They worked, but they were dim as hell. Stopped by AutoZone. The store manager was really pushy about bulb grease. I said no 4 times before he pulled out a box full of broken headlight bulbs, and claimed all of them were "blown because people didn't use bulb grease, today's cars push too many amps! The grease reduces the amps!". Then even said "only idiots don't use bulb grease". Have you ever tried explaining Ohm's Law to an AutoZone manager?  Same manager has tried some hard sell poo poo on me before, but never something this blatant. They must have a quota of $1.50 grease packets to sell every month or something.Just fired off a really nasty email to their corporate office about their hard sale tactics. I doubt it'll get anywhere, but I'm sure as gently caress not going to that store again. Also, the new bulbs made a hell of a difference. Instead of seeing 5 ft past the bumper, you can see several car lengths.
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Sep 26, 2013 08:21
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Ferremit posted:
You should try Amayama, it's where I've got a lot of the stuff for my car, and a majority of it is really cheap. I just got some lower ball joints for my Chaser, they cost me $54 each or something through Amayama, whereas through the other cheap alternative (I'm not 100% proud of this), is to go through North Shore Toyota, in New Zealand; as far as I'm aware, they don't have the tax on parts or something like that as they don't have any car manufacturers. They've sponsored the other forum I belong to (which, admittedly is a bunch of circle-jerking about fitiment etc), so we get further discounts past the NZ part. Something to think about if you're interested, anyway. Come to think of it, I'm not 100% sure Amayama will have Landcruiser parts... worth a look anyway!
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Sep 26, 2013 09:48
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I use Amayama already- they are FANTASTIC, cos if its got a toyota part number, and its still avaliable, you can order it through them. Parts for a Jap spec surf motor? Got it. Parts for a 1970's hilux, Got it. I've confirmed you can turn a whinging, useless back seat driver into 60 cans of beer, which is in easy reach of the OTHER passenger who if he knows whats good for him will hand them to the driver upon request! Just need to get a pair of cheap straps for the front to tie it down on both corners rather than over the top like it is now- It can move a bit too much for my liking like this. And I wish I was an ARB rep... The employee discounts are huge for them. Most of my stuffs been bought at a discount or 2nd hand though- Things like the rear bar, I paid $2500 for it, RRP to replace it without the two alloys (those are $600 EACH from toyota) is $5200 fitted. Each fridge draws a max of 2.5A on start up, then hovers around 1A running, 100AH battery should last a few days at that rate!
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Sep 26, 2013 09:54
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some texas redneck posted:Mom's Avalon was still rocking the original ~2002 headlight bulbs (2003 model year, built at the tail end of 2002). They were incredibly dim, glass was heavily blackened, etc. They worked, but they were dim as hell. If it reduced the current draw wouldn't that be due to making poorer contact because of the grease? As in, you have severely increased the impedance?  also I would imagine that it was dielectric grease which makes connecting and disconnecting electrical things easier but isn't supposed to affect the conductivity...
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Sep 26, 2013 13:11
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Detroit Q. Spider posted:If it reduced the current draw wouldn't that be due to making poorer contact because of the grease? As in, you have severely increased the impedance? "Ingredients: 100% extra virgin snake oil"
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Sep 26, 2013 13:14
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When I got my Blazer it had bulb grease in the parking light/turn signal sockets. The passenger's side had no ground, it wouldn't even light up with parking lights off, and with them on it would only come on dimly because it had 5 volts to one filament and 12 to the other, so ~7 volts net flowing across 2 filaments. Plus with the parking lights on the dashboard repeater would flash out of phase. New bulb and some brake cleaner to clean the socket fixed it right up.
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Sep 26, 2013 15:46
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some texas redneck posted:Mom's Avalon was still rocking the original ~2002 headlight bulbs (2003 model year, built at the tail end of 2002). They were incredibly dim, glass was heavily blackened, etc. They worked, but they were dim as hell. Jesus, that's not even hard selling, that's just straight up bullshit lying.
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Sep 26, 2013 17:00
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Ferremit posted:I use Amayama already- they are FANTASTIC, cos if its got a toyota part number, and its still avaliable, you can order it through them. Parts for a Jap spec surf motor? Got it. Parts for a 1970's hilux, Got it. Awesome to hear.. I love that site so much. I swear, there's another guy that is constantly hounding everyone to even look at their prices, and it's 100% worth it. It may even be worth looking at the Yahoo auctions for stuff you need. I plan on doing it for when I buy an exhaust! 
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Sep 26, 2013 18:52
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some texas redneck posted:Mom's Avalon was still rocking the original ~2002 headlight bulbs (2003 model year, built at the tail end of 2002). They were incredibly dim, glass was heavily blackened, etc. They worked, but they were dim as hell. I've never heard of bulb grease; is that like blinker fluid?
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Sep 26, 2013 22:32
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Astroman posted:I've never heard of bulb grease; is that like blinker fluid? bulb grease = dielectric grease http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Dielectric_grease#Dielectric_grease
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Sep 26, 2013 22:54
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Astroman posted:I've never heard of bulb grease; is that like blinker fluid? Here buy this fluid for guaranteed MPG improvement!
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Sep 27, 2013 00:27
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The reason you need this is because there are too many amps which make the bulb hot and it prematurely fails.. so you slather it in this crude based jizz and it lowers the amperage and so it runs colder despite being covered in this poo poo because it is magical and it reduces heat by atrophy..
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Sep 27, 2013 00:32
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I did a very rough wash and wax job on most of the Niva. Haven't done the roof yet. The paint, especially the dodgy respray on the back soaks up the wax like a sponge. I just don't want it to turn back into an off-white chalkboard again like when I got it.
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Sep 27, 2013 04:44
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West SAAB Story posted:The reason you need this is because there are too many amps which make the bulb hot and it prematurely fails.. so you slather it in this crude based jizz and it lowers the amperage and so it runs colder despite being covered in this poo poo because it is magical and it reduces heat by atrophy.. Pretty much. kastein posted:Jesus, that's not even hard selling, that's just straight up bullshit lying. I sent a really nasty complaint to AutoZone corporate about it. Haven't heard anything beyond "we've forwarded your concerns to the district manager" yet. Made sure to post a nice 1 star review on Yelp for that location too.  e: VVV I laughed way too hard at that. randomidiot fucked around with this message at 11:36 on Sep 27, 2013 |
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Sep 27, 2013 08:40
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some texas redneck posted:
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Sep 27, 2013 11:18
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I'm in the process of doing the long range tank and suspension upgrade on my 100 series. I love how easy these coils are to replace on the 5 link rear. Undo swaybar end links, undo axle breather pipe, lower rear until shocks bottom out, support with jack, remove bottom bolts and release shocks from axle at lower eye, lower some more and pull the coils out once they are free! Just waiting for the factory sub tank to finish draining now.
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Sep 28, 2013 00:32
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Finished the tank install! Old coils vs New Coils. Old ones are 200kg constant load, new ones are 600kg constant loads. Definately needed, the arse is sitting back where it should now and the suspensions working properly again. Theres a 2.5mm difference in wire diameter!  Popped the coils in.  New tank with the senders, pick up and inlets all installed, still had to install the plumbing for the water lines to fill and draw down the 55L water tank  Tap for the drinking water  Gained 70mm of clearance vs what the original tyre occupied. The only downside is that at $1.59 a litre for diesel, it will cost $350 to fill from empty. The upside is that without a roof rack on i'll get 1600kms between servo trips and 1450kms with the roof top tent on!
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Sep 28, 2013 11:15
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smax posted:Stripped out the holes in my bumper that I screw my license plate into and had to buy a new license plate mount and install it. Part number/application? Pics?
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Sep 28, 2013 21:34
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Washed it and pulled a fuckload of grasshoppers and butterflies out of the lower grill. Replaced a cross threaded wheel stud and rotated the wheels. Changed oil and filter and manual transmission fluid. That actually ended up being a pain in the rear end because I couldn't get any tubing to go into the fill hole properly. Ended up taking an old racking cane and reformed it with a heat gun until it cleared the baffle or whatever the gently caress is just inside the transmission fill hole and then everything went smoothly. Just need to replace the brake fluid which can wait until tomorrow or next weekend. For now I need more beer.
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Sep 28, 2013 23:28
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Rinsed out my old gas tank and got a lot of the grit out of it, then stripped the paint and dirt. Put a couple coats of black on the top and a couple of rubberized undercoating on the bottom. Also welded a new stud for the tank strap to hook onto, and welded the bracket for my high mount brake light to the headache rack. Still didn't actually finish anything but some progress anyway.
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Sep 29, 2013 00:54
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  Same on the other side for both pictures. Tried doing headers but couldn't locate any that would fit beneath the engine properly, s the guy at the shop repaired my broken ram horn, painted them (for some unknown reason) and I went with true dual flowmasters into a Y-shaped tips on either side of the car. On the downside, literally one hour after having this done, I destroyed my third wheel cylinder. It's always the passenger side. Goddamnit! 11BulletCatcher fucked around with this message at 02:57 on Sep 29, 2013 |
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Sep 29, 2013 02:53
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Not mine, but brought my sister's car in to work for some long-overdue maintenance. Oil + rotate, was gonna get an alignment too but that's difficult when all the front LCA bushings are completely shot; I've seen cars with essentially missing ball joints that moved less than these when it was up in the air.  CVs are shot too, boots are torn wide open and the grease is all gone, and the brakes all need to be replaced as well, though I inferred that one beforehand by the pedal being about as stiff as a down pillow.Looks like I've got a busy day coming up soon! 
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Sep 29, 2013 02:59
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Nothing to my car, but I did receive and mount two tire racks in my garage to get some wheels off the floor. Got them off Amazon for $45 each: http://amzn.com/B0058BMNVU
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Sep 29, 2013 03:24
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DropShadow posted:Nothing to my car, but I did receive and mount two tire racks in my garage to get some wheels off the floor. Got them off Amazon for $45 each: http://amzn.com/B0058BMNVU Thanks for linking this, gonna order one for myself.
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Sep 29, 2013 03:29
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DropShadow posted:Nothing to my car, but I did receive and mount two tire racks in my garage to get some wheels off the floor. Got them off Amazon for $45 each: http://amzn.com/B0058BMNVU Cut a pool noodle in half and then glue it to the sharp edges of these tire stands. You will walk into them without looking and it's a lot nicer to hit your head/eye on pool noodle than right angled steel.
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Sep 29, 2013 03:58
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Seat Safety Switch posted:Cut a pool noodle in half and then glue it to the sharp edges of these tire stands. You will walk into them without looking and it's a lot nicer to hit your head/eye on pool noodle than right angled steel. They're in the corner and now have a bunch of boxes and stuff underneath them, so it'd be pretty hard to walk directly into them. I do have a kid on the way, so I'll keep your advice in the back of my mind when she starts walking.
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Sep 29, 2013 04:21
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11BulletCatcher posted:
Have you upgraded to dual circuit brakes yet, or did you have the pleasure of relying on the stompy parking brake? E: Also, would these headers not fit? They say they're right for that body style. Raluek fucked around with this message at 05:26 on Sep 29, 2013 |
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Sep 29, 2013 05:20
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Raluek posted:Have you upgraded to dual circuit brakes yet, or did you have the pleasure of relying on the stompy parking brake? I don't know what happened to my parking brake, the light indicates it's on and yet it's not engaged. I had the pleasure instead of blowing through a red going 60 downhill with no brakes. Anyhow, I guess I'm changing a cylinder tomorrow. By the way, anyone know what kind of power a 283 with pure duals (no x or h pipes) ought to make? 11BulletCatcher fucked around with this message at 05:54 on Sep 29, 2013 |
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Sep 29, 2013 05:49
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11BulletCatcher posted:I don't know what happened to my parking brake, the light indicates it's on and yet it's not engaged. I had the pleasure instead of blowing through a red going 60 downhill with no brakes. Anyhow, I guess I'm changing a cylinder tomorrow. The light just says that the pedal is being pushed (it's a normally closed switch on the pedal assembly), not that it's actually doing anything. It could be way out of adjustment, or something could be broken. While you're in the rear brakes you should adjust them (poo poo, do the fronts too if you haven't done it recently, has a huge effect on pedal feel) and make sure the parking brake actually works. I just recently (well, like a year and a half ago?) switched mine over to dual circuit, I threw in the m/c and proportioning block from a '69 with drums all around. As for power, maybe about 200ish? My '65 had a 327 with the same heads on it originally, and it was said to make 250.
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Sep 29, 2013 07:46
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Raluek posted:The light just says that the pedal is being pushed (it's a normally closed switch on the pedal assembly), not that it's actually doing anything. It could be way out of adjustment, or something could be broken. While you're in the rear brakes you should adjust them (poo poo, do the fronts too if you haven't done it recently, has a huge effect on pedal feel) and make sure the parking brake actually works. I just recently (well, like a year and a half ago?) switched mine over to dual circuit, I threw in the m/c and proportioning block from a '69 with drums all around. The front passenger is the one I'll be doing.
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Sep 29, 2013 15:16
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