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I have been looking for an external flash for my 60D. And I am slightly ignorant when it comes to the functions, what is needed in different situations. The Canon Speedlite 430EX II is what I have thinking about getting or equivalent gotland-29 by dabrovnijk, on Flickr If I would have wanted to use a flash to light up that portrait. The shutter speed is 1/200 on that picture and high speed sync would not have been needed? But if it would have been 1/800 then high speed sync would have been needed? High speed sync is only usable when the flash is mounted on the camera? gotland-123 by dabrovnijk, on Flickr Would an external flash been strong enough to remove the shadows on that picture? If I remember right I am standing around 19ft (6 meter) away. I believe that both of the flashes mentioned above is triggered by the built in flash. On this picture, if I had the external flash placed on the right to get the flash slightly closer would I have been able to trigger the camera with/from the external flash? erephus fucked around with this message at 15:34 on Sep 28, 2013 |
# ? Sep 28, 2013 09:08 |
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# ? May 16, 2024 18:46 |
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erephus posted:If I would have wanted to use a flash to light up that portrait. The shutter speed is 1/200 on that picture and high speed sync would not have been needed? But if it would have been 1/800 then high speed sync would have been needed? Yes erephus posted:High speed sync is only usable when the flash is mounted on the camera? Depends. A flash with HSS can be used off shoe with a TTL cord or some wireless radio triggers like pocket wizards or these yongnuos. Cheaper manual only triggers won't support it. I believe that the Canon 580EXII and 600RT support HSS as optical slaves (using your camera flash as optical master) but I'm not 100% on that since I don't own either. erephus posted:Would an external flash been strong enough to remove the shadows on that picture? If I remember right I am standing around 19ft (6 meter) away. Maybe, but I doubt it. Thats a pretty strong contrast between shadow and harsh sunlight. erephus posted:I believe that both of the flashes mentioned above is triggered by the built in flash. On this picture, if I had the external flash placed on the right to get the flash slightly closer would I have been able to trigger the camera with/from the external flash? Do you mean would you be able to trigger the flash off camera? Yes. If you are asking if you can use a flash to remote trigger your shutter, I don't think so. You can get a wireless remote pretty cheap though!
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# ? Sep 29, 2013 00:24 |
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CarrotFlowers posted:I'm on vacation in Europe right now, and only brought one lens with me, my 24-70. Since I got here it had difficulty getting focus confirm when zoomed out past 35mm. I was able to work around it, but now it's suddenly very sticky when moving the focus ring. I have to put in a whole lot of force to get it to move at all. Still focuses and takes pictures, but the more I turn it, the harder it becomes to move. I would say chances are you would break it more with about zero chance of whatever is screwed up in the lens realigning itself by forcing it. Maybe a stop gap nifty fifty?
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# ? Sep 29, 2013 12:46 |
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CarrotFlowers posted:I'm on vacation in Europe right now, and only brought one lens with me, my 24-70. Since I got here it had difficulty getting focus confirm when zoomed out past 35mm. I was able to work around it, but now it's suddenly very sticky when moving the focus ring. I have to put in a whole lot of force to get it to move at all. Still focuses and takes pictures, but the more I turn it, the harder it becomes to move. speaking from experience, having multiple nifty thriftys never hurt nobody. I bought one in Shanghai when I thought I'd broken my lens in China a few years ago. A quick googling tells me Photo Hall, Vanden Borre, and Krėfel are three chains that are throughout Belgium that would hopefully have something to work as a substitute -- maybe not another L-lens, but hopefully a plastic 50 or a 40.
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# ? Sep 29, 2013 14:12 |
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Get the 40. It's awesome.
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# ? Sep 29, 2013 14:37 |
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ShotgunWillie posted:Get the 40. It's awesome. I just shot a cheap test-roll of Fuji C200 on an EOS5 with the 40mm, it was sweet: Just stuck a roll of Portra 400 in that bad boy
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# ? Sep 29, 2013 15:24 |
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CarrotFlowers posted:I'm on vacation in Europe right now, and only brought one lens with me, my 24-70. Since I got here it had difficulty getting focus confirm when zoomed out past 35mm. I was able to work around it, but now it's suddenly very sticky when moving the focus ring. I have to put in a whole lot of force to get it to move at all. Still focuses and takes pictures, but the more I turn it, the harder it becomes to move. Can't help you with Belgium, but if you make it to Munich without a new lens, there is always the possibility of renting from Calumet Photo. I haven't tried them personally but they've got branches all over Germany, a good selection of Canon gear and their prices are generally good.
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# ? Sep 29, 2013 17:15 |
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Where outside Verviers (hope it ain't Eupen)? If you're in Germany, any Mediamarkt might do for new glass. Their prices are aligned closely to those of dedicated photographers shops. The first party stuff is usually in stock (at least stuff like 24-70 et al).
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# ? Sep 29, 2013 18:19 |
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I figured this would be the best place to ask. Are these batteries legit? Are they worth a poo poo? Or should I go and get the "proper" ones off of ebay?
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# ? Sep 29, 2013 21:20 |
If you're still in Belgium and find a FNAC store they'll sell lenses, I have no idea whether the prices are good though.
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# ? Sep 29, 2013 21:42 |
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erephus posted:
Don't forget about low tech options. A $10 reflector could've easily fixed up a shot like this.
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# ? Sep 30, 2013 15:15 |
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Or shooting at another time of day where the light would've been less harsh.
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# ? Sep 30, 2013 21:16 |
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Bubbacub posted:Don't forget about low tech options. A $10 reflector could've easily fixed up a shot like this. 1st AD posted:Or shooting at another time of day where the light would've been less harsh. Yeah, I realize there can be other solutions for that and perhaps even the built in flash would have managed. But I didn't have that many pictures taken, at least that I had any easy access for linking to, to take as an example to see if I got something right in the way I figured it would/could work. I remember watching a video by digitalrev on youtube where he use an external flash made out of cardboard paper, I feel that he tried to make a point towards people like me there. Anyway I order a cheaper 3rd party flash, a Phottix Mitros TTL that will arrive tomorrow. I have a mixed feeling. I trust Sigma and Metz more, never heard of Phottix and couldn't find any valuable information on internet about the (build)quality on the flash.
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# ? Sep 30, 2013 21:37 |
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Or you could get something like a D600 or D800 that are 3+ stops more sensitive and pull up those shadows. Not a budget option, but eh.
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# ? Sep 30, 2013 21:45 |
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Don't buy a Canon! The Canon Thread
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# ? Sep 30, 2013 21:52 |
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I did return the camera I used to take those two pictures, as per the topic. And no I shouldn't replace my current camera. My mother in law said "Perhaps he should get some help." in jest to my wife when I checked out the different cameras a few months back. Eventually that jest could turn out to be more serious than it was supposed to be. erephus fucked around with this message at 22:09 on Sep 30, 2013 |
# ? Sep 30, 2013 22:02 |
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I played around with an SL1 the other day. Man, it is too small.
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# ? Oct 1, 2013 03:07 |
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Wario In Real Life posted:Don't buy a Canon! The Canon Thread Mods, tia. HPL posted:I played around with an SL1 the other day. Man, it is too small. I liked the size of the sl1, but I like the size of the OM-D . Different strokes for different folks and all.
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# ? Oct 1, 2013 03:12 |
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Mr. Despair posted:Mods, tia.
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# ? Oct 1, 2013 03:13 |
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Mr. Despair posted:Mods, tia. Buy a Pentax or an Olympus and put 3 layers of weird adapted Soviet/Fuji/Contax on it to shoot your cats! The MrDespair Thread
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# ? Oct 1, 2013 03:52 |
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fivre posted:Buy a Pentax or an Olympus and put 3 layers of weird adapted Soviet/Fuji/Contax on it to shoot your cats! The MrDespair Thread It's more of an instax/yashica-mat sort of night, to be fair. Also a 5d + pentax 50/1.4 would be a great cat camera and I sorta wish I had one just for cats.
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# ? Oct 1, 2013 04:10 |
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Mr. Despair posted:It's more of an instax/yashica-mat sort of night, to be fair. Mavica+Pentax 50/1.4?
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# ? Oct 1, 2013 04:16 |
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fivre posted:Mavica+Pentax 50/1.4? Anything with a pentax 50/1.4 strapped onto it is probably p. good.
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# ? Oct 1, 2013 04:20 |
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I finally caved and upgraded to the 24mm TS-E II (used, but mint from eBay). Tilt and shift on the same axis is going to be sweeeeet... not to mention the improved optics. Not so enthusiastic about the 82mm filter ring, though. I haven't been able to see how it will impact my Cokin P setup yet - I need to buy a 82mm adapter ring. I still have the first-gen 24mm TS-E for a few days until I sell it to a friend - Does anyone want/care for some kind of specific comparison shots before I sell the first gen lens?
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# ? Oct 3, 2013 03:43 |
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Gambl0r posted:
Welcome to the club. It's absolutely fantastic. No shots needed, it's the best of the best.
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# ? Oct 4, 2013 21:24 |
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This is not helping my resolve for purchasing a TS-E 24mm II Either that or an 85mm
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# ? Oct 5, 2013 08:27 |
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Couldn't find anything in the OP, but does anyone know about what brands to look at for non-Canon batteries? Specifically a T3i. Hard to find a real guide/consensus on it.
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# ? Oct 5, 2013 08:54 |
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I have a set by Hahnel, I have no complaints about them. That said I haven't had them long enough to comment on lifespan.
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# ? Oct 5, 2013 10:35 |
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IanTheM posted:Couldn't find anything in the OP, but does anyone know about what brands to look at for non-Canon batteries? Specifically a T3i. Hard to find a real guide/consensus on it. I asked this question earlier, wound up buying a couple Photives, have also had no issues.
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# ? Oct 5, 2013 13:52 |
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After receiving the Phottix Mitros flash I actually think it is good enough. As this will most likely be the only flash that I will have and that I will probably not get a chance to compare it to for instance the Canon 430 EXII I can only make a simple list of what I like/don't like. (Some of which I knew when ordering the flash.) Items that came in the package,a bag, a diffuser, USB cable, 3.5mm sync cable and an USB memory containing the manual Phottix page for the Mitros flash, with specifications and list of features I like this: * LCD display. * High speed sync. * Fast lock for the hot shoe (Similar as pictured on the Canon 600RT). * Stroboscop function. * Diffuser in the package. * Master, Slave - wireless/optical. * Handling, tilting and turning the head feels sturdy. * Buttons on the back feels good. * Acccessing settings through the back panel is ok. * Fast and silent recharge. * USB port for upgrading the flash unit. I do not like this: * Stepping through values requires "clicking" the specific button instead of just holding it down. * Battery compartment have a chance to open it self or the locking mechanism may break if the flash unit is dropped. * The rubber panels for accessing the connections don't feel like they will hold in the long run. * No remote IR triggering the camera from the flash (Canon 370 EX have this). * The material of the plastic body get scratched easily. * Loud hissing noise from the zoom motor. erephus fucked around with this message at 21:35 on Oct 5, 2013 |
# ? Oct 5, 2013 21:12 |
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Anyone have any experience shooting motorsports with a 6D? I'm entertaining the idea of going full frame but a 5D3 is way out of scope.
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# ? Oct 7, 2013 19:55 |
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IanTheM posted:Couldn't find anything in the OP, but does anyone know about what brands to look at for non-Canon batteries? Specifically a T3i. Hard to find a real guide/consensus on it. sterlingtek.com, or they also sell on amazon. Ive been shooting on mine for close to 10 years with Canon and Olympus cameras. Flawlessly.
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# ? Oct 7, 2013 20:24 |
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emotive posted:Anyone have any experience shooting motorsports with a 6D? I'm entertaining the idea of going full frame but a 5D3 is way out of scope. What are you shooting with now? I don't have a 6D but from everything I've read about it, it doesn't really seem appropriate for sports/action photography because of the slower AF tracking speed and the low burst rate. Maybe that doesn't matter as much for panning shots? If you do primarily sports and action, have you considered a 1D? The mark III goes for a little less than a refurb 6D and it's still an amazing camera. The FOV is better than a standard crop, even if it isn't full frame plus you get fantastic AF and burst rate.
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# ? Oct 7, 2013 20:26 |
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Can anyone summarize why the 1DIII is still $1200 used (same price as a new 70D with twice as many pixels)? I think I know in principle but it just kind of blows my mind
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# ? Oct 7, 2013 20:41 |
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TheQat posted:Can anyone summarize why the 1DIII is still $1200 used (same price as a new 70D with twice as many pixels)? I think I know in principle but it just kind of blows my mind Pro models always seem to hold resale value much better than prosumer models. Part of it seems to be just that its "pro". The other part of it is that the AF system is better, they are completely weather sealed, they have two card slots, blazing burst speeds/big buffers, heavy duty shutters and bright viewfinders. A third reason is that every subsequent pro model that Canon puts out is more expensive than the last, which actually serves to pull up prices for used older models. The mkIII is still an awesome camera for sports/wildlife if a mkIV, 5dIII or 1Dx is out of reach but yeah, it should really be worth more like $800 or so.
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# ? Oct 7, 2013 21:10 |
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800peepee51doodoo posted:What are you shooting with now? I don't have a 6D but from everything I've read about it, it doesn't really seem appropriate for sports/action photography because of the slower AF tracking speed and the low burst rate. Maybe that doesn't matter as much for panning shots? If you do primarily sports and action, have you considered a 1D? The mark III goes for a little less than a refurb 6D and it's still an amazing camera. The FOV is better than a standard crop, even if it isn't full frame plus you get fantastic AF and burst rate. I use a 60D now, which does okay, but I feel better results can be had. I would even consider jumping to a 7D if the AF system is a big improvement over the 60D (I haven't researched it too much), but I'm very attracted to the benefits of FF. I'm not sure I'd miss the extra reach of the crop sensor, especially since I plan on buying a 2x extender eventually for track use. I do mostly motorsports and automotive work, so a lot of track shooting and a lot of car portrait/still photography. emotive fucked around with this message at 21:29 on Oct 7, 2013 |
# ? Oct 7, 2013 21:15 |
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I think the lens is the biggest factor in panning cars. I've had good results from a T1i with a great lens, and lovely results on a T1i with a poo poo lens. That's not to say that higher FPS or better focusing isn't a good thing to seek, but like most things with photography you first need good glass.
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# ? Oct 7, 2013 21:21 |
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xzzy posted:I think the lens is the biggest factor in panning cars. I've had good results from a T1i with a great lens, and lovely results on a T1i with a poo poo lens. I've been borrowing a 70-200 f4 when I go to the track but it's the non-IS version so that's pretty tough to pan with at 200mm. I'll be buying the F4 IS before I step up to a new body, I'm just trying to weigh my options.
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# ? Oct 7, 2013 21:31 |
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emotive posted:I've been borrowing a 70-200 f4 when I go to the track but it's the non-IS version so that's pretty tough to pan with at 200mm. I'll be buying the F4 IS before I step up to a new body, I'm just trying to weigh my options. I don't know what track events you go to, but if they're FIA sanctioned type events, you're going to outgrow 200mm really quickly because most spots you get to shoot from are going to have a ton of runoff areas in between you and the cars. In the long run I think you'll find that 400mm is the gold standard. You should still buy a 70-200 though because it's a super lens.
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# ? Oct 7, 2013 21:43 |
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# ? May 16, 2024 18:46 |
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e: ^^^^ or the Sigma 120-300 f/2.8 OS!emotive posted:I use a 60D now, which does okay, but I feel better results can be had. I would even consider jumping to a 7D if the AF system is a big improvement over the 60D (I haven't researched it too much), but I'm very attracted to the benefits of FF. I'm not sure I'd miss the extra reach of the crop sensor, especially since I plan on buying a 2x extender eventually for track use. I think the 6d would be awesome for car portraiture, especially night shots. I was very happy with the 7D's AF performance for the most part, although the tracking is better on the 1 series. I haven't missed the reach advantage of the crop sensor since moving to the APS-H and I'd be willing to bet that the low noise full frame sensor in the 6D would let you crop nicely. A word of warning on the extenders, if you go that route - 2x extenders slow AF focus speed by 75% along with dropping your aperture 2 stops. You can really only use them on f2.8 lenses if you use anything but a 1 series body.
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# ? Oct 7, 2013 21:57 |