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nwin posted:Had a nice grease fire in one of my pans today while cooking and although at first I went to throw it in the sink and douse with water-luckily I remembered that water+grease fire=bad. I'm pretty sure laminate is just a thin layer of plastic with woodgrain printed on it with particleboard/mdf/something underneath so sanding it would either wear away the wood grain pattern leaving the plastic stuff exposed which is probably a different colour or sanding further would wear away the top layer and leave the MDF/whatever stuff exposed which would be even worse since it would probably absorb water and cause more bubbling or even buckling eventually. Maybe someone knows a better way but I'm pretty sure that due to the way laminate interlocks there's really nothing you can do short of hoping you have some spare pieces from when the floor was installed and you can take up the floor all the way from the edge of the room and swap out the bad pieces and then lay it all back down.
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Sep 27, 2013 18:52
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If you have a pattern matched piece you can cut the damage out and dig out the tongue that is left. Cut a new piece to EXACT dimensions. Snap the one side in and use construction adhesive to hold the rest down. Even pressure so nothing sticks up. Or just live with a tiny burnt spot.
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Sep 27, 2013 19:42
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Burn the rest of the floor.
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Sep 27, 2013 20:43
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Account_Username posted:Can I use tie-plates to reinforce this joist? Most of that joist is still good. If you can't get one in full-length, you could probably get away by nailing in a short sister on one side to bring it back up. If you're nervous, use screws. If you're really nervous, use Liquid Nails and screws. If you're incredibly paranoid, size up two lengths of joist to match the existing length, and cut them both about 1/3 along the length, install one on each side, with the 1/3 cut reversed on each side (for overlap); tack 'em in place, drill through in 4-spots, and use 10" carriage bolts & fender washers to secure them. Me, I'd go with option #1 unless you intend to install an oversized, cast-iron Jacuzzi unit & you weigh more than 300-lbs. (edit) I roughed in my sister's bathroom; the house was built in 1912, and the room was not originally a bathroom. All of the joists were cut/keyed out for all kinds of pipe run changes over the past century - chunks missing everywhere. I dropped 3/4" plywood on it and called it a day, mostly because a clawfoot tub came out and a resin stall shower was going in. PainterofCrap fucked around with this message at 04:59 on Sep 28, 2013 |
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Sep 28, 2013 04:54
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Hey, a little question about headphone cable wiring. A MS Paint is probably worth a lot of my lovely explanations so here's one: http://imgur.com/bn6Ew8W Basically, which wires do I solder where on the left headphone to get these working right? Those red and white ones are coming from inside the phone and connect to the driver. I'm not sure if this is enough information to figure it out because I'm dumb. 
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Sep 28, 2013 11:21
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Zingih posted:Hey, a little question about headphone cable wiring. A MS Paint is probably worth a lot of my lovely explanations so here's one: http://imgur.com/bn6Ew8W Basically, which wires do I solder where on the left headphone to get these working right? Those red and white ones are coming from inside the phone and connect to the driver. I'm not sure if this is enough information to figure it out because I'm dumb. 1. I don't understand what those things on the left are and why the right one (pictured left!) has the wires connected to those yellow things and the other one doesn't and whatever. A photo would have made a lot more sense here. 2. It looks like you're mixing headphones using one standard of color coding with an audio lead with another standard of color coding and that is the source of your confusion. If that isn't the case, ignore my suggestions, please. 3. Even though in general you can rely somewhat on manufacturers to adhere to color coding standards, using a multimeter to verify things and looking for + or - marks on the headphones is better. That said, this is my best guess:  On the headphones, RED is probably + and WHITE is probably - On the lead, RED is probably Right + (ring), WHITE is probably Left + (tip), and BLACK is a common - (sleeve). Probably. EDIT: I'm probably misinterpreting your picture completely. Flipperwaldt fucked around with this message at 12:39 on Sep 28, 2013 |
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Sep 28, 2013 12:32
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Yeah my pic is poo poo and I don't have anything to take a photo with. The cable goes to only one side of the headphones, the metal headband thingie between the earphones transfers the currency to the other side. The cable and wires are the original ones. The right side of the phones has the wires as they should be connected to the headband conductor thingie and I can't for the life of me remember how they were supposed to be on the other side. The other side's wires are not connected at all cause I fixed the headphones a couple months back, filled the space with modeling putty to support the wires so they don't snap from the cable's weight, then the phones broke and I had to remove the putty which took the wires with them so yeah. Should have noted down the colors and stuff a a couple months back. Thanks for trying to help, sorry for being confusing and stupid.  It's like this. Zingih fucked around with this message at 13:45 on Sep 28, 2013 |
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Sep 28, 2013 13:35
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I still can't really wrap my head around it, but I found a guy (username solderdude) on a forum prattling on about how the Superlux HD681 and the Samson SR850 have a virtually identical construction. He then posts a pdf of how to do a modification on the Superlux which has a lot of pictures. Especially the second to last picture in that pdf seems relevant; compare that to what you've got. Since I was looking for pictures, I just skimmed the text in that thread; there may be clues in there too.
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Sep 28, 2013 15:12
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Ah that second to last pic answers my horribly put questions perfectly, thanks a million. 
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Sep 28, 2013 15:56
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PainterofCrap posted:Most of that joist is still good. If you can't get one in full-length, you could probably get away by nailing in a short sister on one side to bring it back up. Proper sized nails should always be used, they're stronger in shear than screws (yes yes Simpson makes structural screws)
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Sep 28, 2013 17:40
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dwoloz posted:Proper sized nails should always be used, they're stronger in shear than screws (yes yes Simpson makes structural screws) The ones I have are 12d 3-1/4" galvanized ring shank. Don't know if those are the right kind, I was planning on using them for the subfloor.
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Sep 28, 2013 18:52
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I spread a layer of construction adhesive over the new piece and clamped it to the old piece, then nailed it together.   Now I need to cut the holes for those pipes on the new subfloor board.
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Sep 29, 2013 21:06
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nwin posted:Had a nice grease fire in one of my pans today while cooking and although at first I went to throw it in the sink and douse with water-luckily I remembered that water+grease fire=bad. XmasGift gave you the proper fix, except you don't just want to replace a patch, you want to replace the whole plank so the replacement follows the same edges of the old one. Laminate interlocks, so just grabbing a pry bar and ripping it out will damage the rest of the floor. If you don't have one, get yourself a oscillating tool and a couple blades (laminate will dull them fast.) Cut the damages piece right down the middle, and make sure you are very, very careful when you get to the edges. Then pull up each side. If you have trouble because of the interlocking system, make addition cuts to free the piece. Then you'll need to take the saw and cut off the tongue from the gap. Get the replacement piece and cut the tongue off that with a table saw. Spread construction adhesive down, and the put the replacement piece in place. This will ONLY work if the floor is otherwise stable. If you've noticed the floor is subject to a lot of expansion and contraction, you might want to just live with the damage (or consider replacing the flooring in the kitchen). If the floor moves a lot, then you'll have a gap or the replacement piece will pop out. If you can't fine a suitable replacement, or don't want to attempt this, you can sand away the damage. Then you'll need to replace the pattern manually - as in get some pain and paint on the wood grain. I've never done this, but I saw it done once. I would personally never attempt it because I am a terrible artist. If you want to try it, it's basically just matching colors and filling in the pattern, but you might want to look more online for info on that. Walked posted:My front door is a bit annoying. It's plumb as far as I can tell, and none of the edges rub. This means that the latch and the striker plate don't quite line up, and you need to push the door bent outward to get it to catch. As in the door is normally like this: | but because the striker plate is too far back, you need to push it forwards like this: ). In reality, you're not bending the door, but actually putting additional pressure on the hinges, but that explanation is harder to conceptualize and doesn't allow me to use awesome visuals. Anyhow, remove the striker plate and grab a metal file and file some if it off on the door side, or move it forward a bit. That'll solve the problem. How much you need to remove or how far forward you need to move it is in your post - If the door sticks in the last 1cm, then you need to move it that far forward. Alternatively, the door might be binding a hair at the striker plate. You might need to remove it and sand away a little behind it. But 9 times of 10, it's just int he wrong position. tomapot posted:Hi guys I need some help with best practices on siding / stone work we had done recently. The stone guys applied a thin bead of caulk between the ledge and the siding. I looked good but after he left the job we noticed that there were a few gaps, which we pointed out to the general contractor. Since then he has tried to remedy this himself and match up the caulk type, color and application to the original work but he has failed miserably. He had the wrong color, the wrong type, poor workmanship, etc. In some spots it is cracking already. Finally we have told him that we want it all stripped out and re-applied. There should be flashing on top of the stone veneer behind the siding to prevent water intrusion. I don't see any. If there isn't any, then that's your #1 concern, because that is an absolute must. Without it, caulk is just a stopgap to cover for the them not doing it right the first time. As for whether or not you NEED to caulk - I've seen both, but I don't recommend using it. Vinyl siding is meant to float. When you install it, you actually don't screw it down all the way, because it can expand and contract as much as 1/4". If you caulk it down, you're basically gluing the starter course to the veneer. If that happens, something has to give. Either the caulk will give way, or the vinyl will buckle. Your contractor SHOULD know this. They also SHOULD know how to run a bead of caulk. I don't know man... If the stone guys ran a bead, then maybe they saw there was no flashing, or didn't want to install one themselves, and thought caulking was the way to go. It's not. Maybe your general doesn't want to go the work of tearing it all apart to put in flashing and then replace the veneer, so he's just following suit. Or many none of them know how to do the work properly. Either way, check for flashing. If it's there, you don't need caulk. If it's not there, then you better have a talk with your workers.
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Sep 30, 2013 14:49
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Two questions: 1) Didn't someone on this thread a few weeks ago ask about garage door sensors? We moved to a new house and I think I have the same problem. When it's around 5pm my garage door won't close. I think it's because the angle of the sun is shining into one of the door sensors. I think the solutions were to either switch the sensors to opposite sides or use a toilet paper tube to create some kind of "hood". Does that sound right? 2) My outdoor faucet is leaking from behind the handle. Looking at youtube it seems like the first fix is to remove the handle and tighten the packing nut. I attempted this yesterday but I couldn't get the screw undone. It's totally locked up. I tried hitting it with WD-40 several times, but still could not get it to budge. Are there any other things to try to get it loose?
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Sep 30, 2013 15:04
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Sleepstupid posted:I tried hitting it with WD-40 several times, but still could not get it to budge. Are there any other things to try to get it loose? Yes, proper penetrating oil like PB Blaster, Liquid Wrench or Kryoil. WD-40 is not a penetrating lubricant. In fact, WD-40 is barely a lubricant.
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Sep 30, 2013 15:16
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I've got the holes cut in the new board, but it won't sit flat on the joists. I had been storing it on its side out on the front porch and now the board curves upwards at the edges. Is there a way to flatten it out again? Right now I've got weights holding it flat, but I don't know if it will stay like that when the weights are removed. 
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Sep 30, 2013 17:23
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Screw it down in to place. Should suck in any bowing
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Sep 30, 2013 17:55
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This weekend I started building a huge headboard for our new king size bed and I was an idiot and grabbed the wrong box of screws and screwed through the front of the gloss white lacquered table tops that I'm using for the headboard. I'm trying to figure out the best way to repair it now. I'm thinking I should chip away where the screw went though and fill it with something (maybe bondo or sandable wood filler?) and then sand it smooth with some really fine sand paper and then hope that I can find a gloss white spray lacquer that will match, if it's not close enough I'll just respray the whole thing. I'm assuming I'll have to wet sand or use some 000 steel wool or something between paint layers to get it super smooth right? Anyone have any ideas or input on the best way to repair this? I'm planning on hitting Home Depot/Lowe's tonight to grab some supplies to at least get the patch done and level and maybe the first layer of lacquer.
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Sep 30, 2013 18:03
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Killing Flies posted:There should be flashing on top of the stone veneer behind the siding to prevent water intrusion. I don't see any. If there isn't any, then that's your #1 concern, because that is an absolute must. Without it, caulk is just a stopgap to cover for the them not doing it right the first time. As for whether or not you NEED to caulk - I've seen both, but I don't recommend using it. Vinyl siding is meant to float. When you install it, you actually don't screw it down all the way, because it can expand and contract as much as 1/4". If you caulk it down, you're basically gluing the starter course to the veneer. If that happens, something has to give. Either the caulk will give way, or the vinyl will buckle. Your contractor SHOULD know this. They also SHOULD know how to run a bead of caulk. I don't know man... If the stone guys ran a bead, then maybe they saw there was no flashing, or didn't want to install one themselves, and thought caulking was the way to go. It's not. Maybe your general doesn't want to go the work of tearing it all apart to put in flashing and then replace the veneer, so he's just following suit. Or many none of them know how to do the work properly. Either way, check for flashing. If it's there, you don't need caulk. If it's not there, then you better have a talk with your workers. Thanks, guess should I peal up a section and see if there is any flashing behind there?
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Sep 30, 2013 19:17
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I have a sizeable tree, about 5' diameter with branches that are ~2' diameter, that needs to be pruned this fall/winter and it also is very near the house. I'm worried about hiring the right person because I don't want the tree hosed up, or want it to die, or want them dropping branches on our house. I have no idea how to evaluate a person/company on something like this. Or am I just being a nervous nelly and tree trimming is a basic thing that most landscaping companies should handle?
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Sep 30, 2013 23:12
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wormil posted:I have a sizeable tree, about 5' diameter with branches that are ~2' diameter, that needs to be pruned this fall/winter and it also is very near the house. I'm worried about hiring the right person because I don't want the tree hosed up, or want it to die, or want them dropping branches on our house. I have no idea how to evaluate a person/company on something like this. Or am I just being a nervous nelly and tree trimming is a basic thing that most landscaping companies should handle? While no guarantee of quality of work, finding a certified arborist to do the work would be a way to reduce the risk of a shoddy job. http://www.isa-arbor.com/faca/findArborist.aspx
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Sep 30, 2013 23:41
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In my experience, most arborists are lumberjacks in disguise. They want to cut down every tree they see because it's profitable, so they'll tell you it's in "decline." What they forget to mention is that a tree in that state could stay alive and healthy-looking for another sixty years or so.
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Oct 1, 2013 00:06
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wormil posted:I have a sizeable tree, about 5' diameter with branches that are ~2' diameter, that needs to be pruned this fall/winter and it also is very near the house. I'm worried about hiring the right person because I don't want the tree hosed up, or want it to die, or want them dropping branches on our house. I have no idea how to evaluate a person/company on something like this. Or am I just being a nervous nelly and tree trimming is a basic thing that most landscaping companies should handle? Late winter/early spring is the best time of year for pruning trees in regards to the health of the tree. Qwijib0 posted:While no guarantee of quality of work, finding a certified arborist to do the work would be a way to reduce the risk of a shoddy job. Also ask if they are insured, just in case. Also ask if they use spurs or not. Spurs are those boot spikes you see utility men using to climb telephone poles. Obviously, they're not good for living trees. Good arborists use spurs only when they're completely removing a tree. Sleepstupid posted:Two questions: 1) You're right, switch the sensors. It's real easy. At most you'll need a screwdriver and a wrench, but you probably won't need any tools. 2) You might need to replace the packing washer. Turn off the water and try putting a wrench on that nut and giving it a tap counterclockwise with a hammer. Just a tap too, brass is soft. Once you get that off, put the handle back on the stem without its screw and unscrew the stem out of the housing. Take that to your local hardware store or plumbing supplier and find the right packing washer for it, and maybe a new stem washer too. You might have to go to a smaller hardware store than Lowes or Home Depot. Both their plumbing washer selections suck. kid sinister fucked around with this message at 00:19 on Oct 1, 2013 |
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Oct 1, 2013 00:09
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Thanks for the tree advice. I'm going to search the ISA site for someone local.
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Oct 1, 2013 01:04
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Is there any type of rock/gravel that could be placed on a dirt driveway that will hold up to cars without scattering everywhere? I've seen various types of base rock and crushed rock used but in very short order tires dig grooves down to the dirt and rocks get flung all over the street. This dirt area fits 2 cars and has a slight slope. Just looking to avoid parking in mud when it starts raining but can't afford concrete right now. Thanks for any help on this.
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Oct 1, 2013 08:01
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socketwrencher posted:Is there any type of rock/gravel that could be placed on a dirt driveway that will hold up to cars without scattering everywhere? I've seen various types of base rock and crushed rock used but in very short order tires dig grooves down to the dirt and rocks get flung all over the street. This dirt area fits 2 cars and has a slight slope. Just looking to avoid parking in mud when it starts raining but can't afford concrete right now. Thanks for any help on this. 3/4 down should do the trick. Spread out 2-3", wet it with a hose then go over it with a plate compactor. Once it is a few inches thick and compacted well it should hold up. You can get a yard for $60 here and another $60 or so for the compactor rental.
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Oct 1, 2013 12:31
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socketwrencher posted:Is there any type of rock/gravel that could be placed on a dirt driveway that will hold up to cars without scattering everywhere? I've seen various types of base rock and crushed rock used but in very short order tires dig grooves down to the dirt and rocks get flung all over the street. This dirt area fits 2 cars and has a slight slope. Just looking to avoid parking in mud when it starts raining but can't afford concrete right now. Thanks for any help on this. Yes, it's call "modified". It's 3/4" clean mixed with smaller gravel as well as screenings. Once it's been watered down and driven on/compacted for a bit it pretty much interlocks and stays put. Any kind of "clean" stone is going to get moved around. I have 3/8" clean in my driveway for looks, but that's just 3" of top dressing. Underneath that is 3-4" of modified. Without it you end up with tire tracks that turn into potholes inside of a year. If you choose to top dress, make sure the modified has been down for a while and rained on several times before adding the top dressing. Otherwise they'll end up mixing together and looking like ugly rear end modified again.
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Oct 1, 2013 15:47
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So over the weekend we experienced some nearly typhoon-levels of rain and wind in my city, and my roof began to leak. I'm pretty sure that the leak is from a gap along the lower edge of a vent cover above my stove (the water would have run down the slope of the roof underneath and then ended up where it came through my ceiling, and I've found water on top of my stove which came from the fan vent, once in a while.) I'm not very experienced with roofing (my main experience of roofing was falling through a skylight as a kid, so I've tended to avoid heights most of the time since,) and I was wondering/hoping that I might be able to just get some putty or something and squeeze it in along the bottom of the vent, or should I get another vent and replace this one?
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Oct 1, 2013 16:40
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coyo7e posted:So over the weekend we experienced some nearly typhoon-levels of rain and wind in my city, and my roof began to leak. I'm pretty sure that the leak is from a gap along the lower edge of a vent cover above my stove (the water would have run down the slope of the roof underneath and then ended up where it came through my ceiling, and I've found water on top of my stove which came from the fan vent, once in a while.) I've had good luck with this stuff in sealing around a leaky sewer vent. I went hog wild with about a 6" border around the vent/flashing and it's held up nicely http://www.homedepot.com/p/Rust-Oleum-Stops-Rust-11-oz-LeakSeal-Clear-Spray-265495/203165633
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Oct 1, 2013 18:00
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Qwijib0 posted:I've had good luck with this stuff in sealing around a leaky sewer vent. I went hog wild with about a 6" border around the vent/flashing and it's held up nicely You can get roof sealant in caulk tubes also, which I've had good luck with in the past. You should be able to find it with the roofing supplies, should only cost a few bucks.
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Oct 1, 2013 18:43
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stubblyhead posted:You can get roof sealant in caulk tubes also, which I've had good luck with in the past. You should be able to find it with the roofing supplies, should only cost a few bucks. 
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Oct 1, 2013 20:28
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sirr0bin posted:3/4 down should do the trick. Spread out 2-3", wet it with a hose then go over it with a plate compactor. Once it is a few inches thick and compacted well it should hold up. You can get a yard for $60 here and another $60 or so for the compactor rental. Sounds great- thanks this is really helpful. I just called a local yard and they said they carry 3/4" crushed rock that would be suitable for this purpose. They suggested compacting for a long time- and then compacting even more.
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Oct 1, 2013 23:19
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Motronic posted:Yes, it's call "modified". It's 3/4" clean mixed with smaller gravel as well as screenings. Once it's been watered down and driven on/compacted for a bit it pretty much interlocks and stays put. Thanks I appreciate this. Don't think I'll top dress so I'm hoping the modified gravel will last for a while. Just checked prices and it looks like $65 a yard (need 5 or so) and $45 for a compactor for 4 hours. Free delivery on the gravel which is a huge bonus.
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Oct 1, 2013 23:23
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I'm going to put some more insulation in my attic before it gets much colder. I was just up at the store pricing things, and I don't understand why the rolls are so much less expensive than the batts. For instance, they had unfaced R-30 batts for something like $0.98/sqft, while the same product in rolls was only $0.38/sqft. It's not like the stuff's that hard to cut through, so why the huge difference in price?
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Oct 2, 2013 01:43
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socketwrencher posted:Thanks I appreciate this. Don't think I'll top dress so I'm hoping the modified gravel will last for a while. Just checked prices and it looks like $65 a yard (need 5 or so) and $45 for a compactor for 4 hours. Free delivery on the gravel which is a huge bonus. Don't know where you are, but $65 a yard is pretty drat steep around here. If I show up at the quarry in a triaxle it's about $18 a yard (wholesale). Delivered should be around $45 a yard, and 5 yards is plenty to cover the truck cost. But areas vary a LOT based on what's available locally, how far you are from a quarry and what needs to be hauled in.....just cautioning you to get some more quotes just in case. (for example, that would be a fine price 2 hours away from me at the jersey shore, where sand is basically free but I have to pay decent money for sand back up here....which is why we don't bobtail home and bring back sand instead.......it's all about what's common in your area) Motronic fucked around with this message at 02:48 on Oct 2, 2013 |
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Oct 2, 2013 02:46
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stubblyhead posted:I'm going to put some more insulation in my attic before it gets much colder. I was just up at the store pricing things, and I don't understand why the rolls are so much less expensive than the batts. For instance, they had unfaced R-30 batts for something like $0.98/sqft, while the same product in rolls was only $0.38/sqft. It's not like the stuff's that hard to cut through, so why the huge difference in price? Some people are willing to pay for the convenience of the batts. What really pissed me off when I did my insulation was that 22" wide rolls were more than twice as exensive as 16" rolls.
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Oct 2, 2013 03:31
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Motronic posted:Don't know where you are, but $65 a yard is pretty drat steep around here. This is Oakland CA. And I called back to ask about something else and it's actually $75/yd. I'll call around tomorrow and see if I can find a better price- thanks for the tips.
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Oct 2, 2013 04:01
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I currently rent in a very old but beautiful house that has settled significantly over the 100 years it's been built. I honestly doubt there is any space in the house were the floor is truly level. We're the entire second floor and there is a large attic apartment where someone lives above us. Long story short, the girlfriend is being driven insane by my movement in the mornings due to the floor--but to be fair it is very loud, from both our apartment and the one above us. Would using a finishing nailer (I have a very nice one) be the best method to fixing? I know there are special screw kits but we're talking about 1350sqft in my apartment (I could localize my work around the bedrooms) and ~800sq ft in the attic space (again can localize). It'd be a lot of expensive screws and I hope finishing nailer would work best.
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Oct 2, 2013 20:23
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...what are you wanting to nail?
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Oct 2, 2013 20:26
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eddiewalker posted:...what are you wanting to nail? His GIRLFRIEND. I think he is talking about loose floor boards in a 100 year old house. Which means noisy, no nail will help.
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Oct 2, 2013 20:40
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