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Kazy posted:e: My kapton tape is already ripping (I think I need to get a better spatula to peel prints off, my metal one is cutting the tape when I try). Is Amazon the best source of tape? Also, where can I get something better to peel the prints off that won't cut the tape? Dollar store, wooden spatula, won't harm the tape, gets the prints pretty well. When/if that fails pair of bent needle nose pliers applied directly to print, twist off. Though if you have a heated print bed, normally letting the bed cool will cause the object to just 'pop' off all on its own. This can be reversed by taking a cool print and submerging the glass sheet hot water (if you don't have a heated print bed). That peachy printer is neat, and for $100 I think I might grab it, though it seems like it would have a LOT of room for improvement. Using the analog output from a sound card to position a mirror for a laser is quite possibly the least accurate method I could think of for positioning. On the other hand floating the resin on saltwater so that you can print normally is sheer genius and removes the 'print stuck to bottom of tray' problem with the upside down resin printing method (which is solved by the B1 and form1 guys by painting the plastic base with a release agent that wears off rapidly).
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Sep 23, 2013 21:40
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Linux Assassin posted:That peachy printer is neat, and for $100 I think I might grab it, though it seems like it would have a LOT of room for improvement. Using the analog output from a sound card to position a mirror for a laser is quite possibly the least accurate method I could think of for positioning. On the other hand floating the resin on saltwater so that you can print normally is sheer genius and removes the 'print stuck to bottom of tray' problem with the upside down resin printing method (which is solved by the B1 and form1 guys by painting the plastic base with a release agent that wears off rapidly). I picked one up anyway, even though I agree. I think even the first version of this printer will be full of bugs and will be improved more after the release. I think it's really cool design, even if it is a strange way to get the laser positioned. The upshot of this design is that it will work on virtually any pc, running any operating system, without an expensive micro controller in the printer. Getting away from motors and extruders is what makes me so interested in this project. No matter what problems may arise, I doubt anything could be as frustrating as the problems most users seem to have from their hot ends.
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Sep 24, 2013 00:45
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Anuvin posted:I picked one up anyway, even though I agree. I think even the first version of this printer will be full of bugs and will be improved more after the release. I took the plunge as well, $100 to support another Canadian inventor and potentially get in on something paradigm-shifting I think is money well spent. However stepper motors are actually pretty awesome and positionally quite accurate. Putting the X/Y of the laser mirrors onto some seriously geared up stepper motors (small wheel turns big wheel) would likely give insanely high positional accuracy and completely remove the layering effect that his prints seem to have (which I imagine is caused by the inherit wobble of using magnets and sound card output to position mirrors). The resistance is so low that you could likely use the cheapest stepper motors on the market and under-power them (so no heat issues). Conversely you could potentially just use a laser projector with this setup (laser projectors cost in the realm of $100, so it would literally double the price of the printer and might instead be a better idea for a whole new printer design using his drip system to raise the print level).
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Sep 24, 2013 02:42
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That peachy printer is an incredibly interesting design. I'm hesitant to back it right now, but I absolutely added it to my watchlist. With the promise of buckets of money coming in, I'm really curious to see what they'll do in the next month.
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Sep 24, 2013 02:58
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Linux Assassin posted:I took the plunge as well, $100 to support another Canadian inventor and potentially get in on something paradigm-shifting I think is money well spent. Stepper motors are great, but they are heavy, and can be expensive. The printrbot simple suffers from a heavy motor, it's why I ended up not buying one. Stationary motors, however, would probably work very well. If the magnet driven mirror setup can be sufficiently improved, it may be less expensive. I do wonder if they can get the accuracy down with the sound card doing the work. Though expensive, a laser projector is a cool idea. Do you think you would need mirrors at all with a projector? Or would the model always be bent to the angle of the light?
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Sep 24, 2013 05:07
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Anuvin posted:Stepper motors are great, but they are heavy, and can be expensive. The printrbot simple suffers from a heavy motor, it's why I ended up not buying one. Stationary motors, however, would probably work very well. If the magnet driven mirror setup can be sufficiently improved, it may be less expensive. I do wonder if they can get the accuracy down with the sound card doing the work. I don't think the model would be bent to the angle of the light, instead the larger the print area the less (worse) the minimum details of the model would have due to the spread of the beam hitting the resin. I don't think it would come up at all for prints in the existing printer scales, but if you got up to canoe sizes it would be problematic. Of course the design of this printer would have the same limitations as a laser projector in that regard. Which is starting to make me wonder why none of the current resin based printers use a laser projector yet... I guess I'll have to do some research and see.
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Sep 24, 2013 05:48
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Actually, electromagnets on a mirror can be an extremely accurate positioning system -- it's how most serious laser projectors work, including those in bar code scanners, laser planetariums, and SLA machines like the Form 1. In that case they're called "galvanometers" though. http://www.scanlab.de/en/-/products/dynAXIS It's a perfectly reasonable way to go -- they just need to figure out a cheap way to build the things and drive them accurately from a regular sound card.
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Sep 24, 2013 06:11
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Galvos have a positioning feedback loop inherent to the design. Without them it's basically just an electromagnet on a mirror  But it's a super neat idea, I agree.
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Sep 24, 2013 21:23
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Got to see this chocolate SLS printer at Maker Faire Toronto on the weekend: More info: http://makerfairetoronto.com/2013/09/10/meet-the-makers-3d-chocolate-printer-by-3d-chocolateering/
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Sep 24, 2013 21:36
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Linux Assassin posted:Though if you have a heated print bed, normally letting the bed cool will cause the object to just 'pop' off all on its own.
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Sep 24, 2013 22:02
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CapnBry posted:There's the other alternative. Go to bed with the printer printing, wake up with a 90% chance your print will be perfect and detached from the bed. 10% chance something went horribly wrong like 5 layers in and you've got a pound of plastic goo. You forgot the part where the plastic goo has attached itself to the print head and been dragged around in circles the entire print, so not only do you have a full pound of hard plastic, you have a full pound of hard plastic encasing your print head, some of which is made of printed plastic... So you have to get a heat gun and carefully heat up the glob without overheating the plastic components while chipping/pulling/stretching away at it until you have it free. Conversely if you have a RepRap you just take the whole mechanisim out and put it in the oven at 450, wait until all plastic is melted free and then snap the metal components into one of the three dozen sets of parts you printed to calibrate the thing. I did not have a RepRap.
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Sep 24, 2013 22:33
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I used to have issues with the part prematurely coming off my glass heated bed, but ever since I started just wiping it down with Windex just before heating it for every print, I've had no problems at all. The parts stay rigidly glued on throughout the process, and then about ten minutes after it's done as the bed cools you hear these crackling and popping noises and the part breaks itself free. It's great. (Knock on wood). I use PLA extruded at 190C onto an 80C heated bed for the first layer, then cool down to 185/72 with fan cooling for every subsequent layer. It's just great. Also I just kickstartered that $117 printer just above with the electromagnetic mirrors and the drip feed and stuff. He's already getting pretty great resolution for something made out hot glue and MDF, so I'm very interested in seeing what he comes up with by the time the "reward" (aren't these all just glorified pre-orders with no guarantees at this point?) ships in a year from now. Even if it doesn't significantly improve from the current state, a $117 SLA that prints from the sound card is pretty sweet. I'm going to be the ultimate hipster and go to starbucks and sit there 3D printing little plastic owls or whatever that I recorded onto a walkman.
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Sep 25, 2013 01:40
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techknight posted:Got to see this chocolate SLS printer at Maker Faire Toronto on the weekend: Thats the grossest looking chocolate I've seen.
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Sep 25, 2013 01:57
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SynthOrange posted:Thats the grossest looking chocolate I've seen. Well I guess you haven't been looking then because http://chocolatefantasies.com/gaggiftschocs.htm 
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Sep 25, 2013 02:17
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So what's the consensus on the Velleman K8200? (specs) It's RepRap compatible, and I can get them locally for about $850 CAD. I haven't seen anything good or bad about them, and it looks to be a decent starting point for a beginner. I'm mostly just researching right now, since the OP is out of date, and I have no real idea what's good.
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Oct 1, 2013 20:42
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Kind of a longshot since this seems to be mostly a home-use thread, but I work for an architectural firm, and we recently had some 3D printing done for a project of ours. Due to the high cost of having someone else print for us, and my boss naively thinking a $1,000 3D printer from Office Depot can do the same thing, he's itching for us to purchase our own 3D printer. The company that we had print our buildings used an Objet printer that he said sells for $50K. I'm having a hard time even getting anyone from a handful of 3D printer sites to give me a call after posting an inquiry on their site, and am at a loss for which direction to even go here. I don't know any players in the industry, and have no idea that even if we did drop $50k on a printer that that company would be in business in a year to provide service/supplies for it. Any info you guys could provide would be most helpful. Unfortunately I seriously don't know what our budget is, but as for printable size, I would think that an 8" x 8" x 6" printer would probably be sufficient.
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Oct 2, 2013 20:59
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carlcarlson posted:Kind of a longshot since this seems to be mostly a home-use thread, but I work for an architectural firm, and we recently had some 3D printing done for a project of ours. Due to the high cost of having someone else print for us, and my boss naively thinking a $1,000 3D printer from Office Depot can do the same thing, he's itching for us to purchase our own 3D printer. The company that we had print our buildings used an Objet printer that he said sells for $50K. Your best bet is probably to just buy a bunch of Form 1s.
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Oct 2, 2013 21:48
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TwystNeko posted:So what's the consensus on the Velleman K8200? (specs) It's RepRap compatible, and I can get them locally for about $850 CAD. I haven't seen anything good or bad about them, and it looks to be a decent starting point for a beginner. carlcarlson posted:I don't know any players in the industry, and have no idea that even if we did drop $50k on a printer that that company would be in business in a year to provide service/supplies for it.
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Oct 2, 2013 22:00
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Hope this is allowed: RoBo 3D printer has started another crowd funding campaign for the next revision of the Robo 3D r1.2 which has some nice upgrades on it as compared to what they're currently listing on their website: https://jumpstartcity.com/events/robo-3d-printer If you buy today you get a 10% discount. Cost: 699 Build volume: 10x9x8in / 254mm x 228mm x 203mm Heated Build Platform with Borosilicate Glass. E3D Hotend Open source MickRaider fucked around with this message at 02:10 on Oct 3, 2013 |
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Oct 2, 2013 22:31
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Holy crap, that $100 Peachy printer is up over $500,000 now. Original goal was $50,000.
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Oct 2, 2013 22:34
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I'm still skeptical that the Peachy is going to pan out. I mean, I really hope it does, but it feels like it's a lot further from shipping than they claim.
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Oct 3, 2013 03:46
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They claim it's shipping a year from now, though, right? That seems like enough time for what is basically a couple of plastic containers and a (demonstrated functional) electromagnetic laser beam-steering system. Most of the hackers in the electronics megathread could build the hardware for it in a weekend...the real innovation is in the software, I think, and all he really needs to work on based on the photos is fit, finish and reliability. The guy has more actual functionality and a better prototype now than the OUYA did when they started, and that somehow made it onto shelves.
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Oct 3, 2013 04:23
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TwystNeko posted:So what's the consensus on the Velleman K8200? (specs) It's RepRap compatible, and I can get them locally for about $850 CAD. I haven't seen anything good or bad about them, and it looks to be a decent starting point for a beginner. I've built one. It's had the nicest instructions I've worked with. The parts are organized in various bags that are numbered so as to find them during the steps, rather than doing things like just get a few M4 bolts out of the M4 bag. There are a few steps that I think should be re-ordered, but none that out balance the rest. Alignment was a breeze due to the extruded aluminum. The pcb heatbed is slightly bowed, so I think they should have included a glass plate or something to build on. For comparison, I've also assembled a makerbot thing-o-matic, and a discontinued model from http://shop.seemecnc.com/, (who make the rostock delta), and a self sourced prusa iteration 1/2 hybrid. I've also worked on a couple of other kits other people bought. The default settings that Velleman supplied are pretty good. Still working out calibration, but it was by far the fastest to get tolerable prints out of. I'd recommend it.
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Oct 3, 2013 04:52
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Has there been any news on an Open Laser recently? Had seen some discontent in thread about Lasersaur and them selling beta access despite a funded Kickstarter in 2010. Looking at their blog/twitter reminds me of The Venture Brothers creators... Con/event, Con/event, Con/event <year passes>, Con/event...
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Oct 5, 2013 09:56
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Sagebrush posted:Most of the hackers in the electronics megathread could build the hardware for it in a weekend...the real innovation is in the software I think there's a lot to be said about using the audio jack of a computer as the primary data connection that few have touched on. Audio connections are rarely perfect all the time, and we're talking about moving a fair amount of data in a short period of time at a baud of 115200 or so. Call me insane, but I'm skeptical about the way they think communication systems work.
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Oct 9, 2013 07:36
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UberVexer posted:I think there's a lot to be said about using the audio jack of a computer as the primary data connection that few have touched on. Audio connections are rarely perfect all the time, and we're talking about moving a fair amount of data in a short period of time at a baud of 115200 or so. Not sure how to equate baud rate to an analog signal, but yeah I imagine the frequency response is going to have a large effect on the accuracy of prints.
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Oct 9, 2013 07:53
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UberVexer posted:I think there's a lot to be said about using the audio jack of a computer as the primary data connection that few have touched on. Audio connections are rarely perfect all the time, and we're talking about moving a fair amount of data in a short period of time at a baud of 115200 or so. I thought they were driving the mirrors directly from the audio port, not transfering all the data. Those mirrors are not going to be moving even close to the maximum frequencies the audio port can output.
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Oct 9, 2013 12:15
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You're still using a digital-to-analog converter of unknown quality to drive the thing. That's where the iffiness comes in.
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Oct 9, 2013 13:52
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The vast majority of sound cards are going to be way nicer than the printer will need. I can see some folks having issue with noise, but not with the quality of the sound card. I'm more worried about the microphone input being used to count droplets. Synchronization is going to be an issue, and for not-much-more money you could get a solenoid pump that would *very* accurately pump metered amounts of liquid without the need for droplet feedback.
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Oct 9, 2013 14:40
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Zuph posted:The vast majority of sound cards are going to be way nicer than the printer will need. I can see some folks having issue with noise, but not with the quality of the sound card. The "vast majority" of sound cards aren't dedicated sound cards but built-in to the motherboard and they are noisy as hell.
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Oct 9, 2013 14:44
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Why would synchronization be an issue? From the video, it doesn't look like the drops are falling very fast at all, and droplets from a fixed apparatus of a fluid with known characteristics is a pretty drat accurate way to measure that fluid.
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Oct 9, 2013 14:45
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I think they said they plan to ship with a USB sound card so it won't be all that variable since they know what hardware everyone will be getting? Edit: http://www.peachyprinter.com/#!faq/cp2f quote:6. My computer has AC Coupled Audio, will it be able to run the printer? Squibbles fucked around with this message at 17:50 on Oct 9, 2013 |
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Oct 9, 2013 17:44
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Obsurveyor posted:The "vast majority" of sound cards aren't dedicated sound cards but built-in to the motherboard and they are noisy as hell. Motherboard sound is pretty uniformly okay at this point. Even gamers rarely put dedicated cards in their machines.
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Oct 9, 2013 20:44
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I suspect that's more due to the prevalence of digital audio. Now, if this thing supported a digital audio stream and had its own proven digital-to-analog converter on board... But then you're basically back to "why not just stream the data via usb."
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Oct 9, 2013 20:58
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Germstore posted:Motherboard sound is pretty uniformly okay at this point. Even gamers rarely put dedicated cards in their machines. Yeah but USB mics are so much more quiet than the onboard. Sounds like the problem is already solved though.
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Oct 9, 2013 21:08
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Are there pictures of anymore prints from it other than the cube and his name? It doesn't seem like it'd have good print quality. edit: Also, 3D printed part of my Halloween costume this year:  I'd give it a couple of coats of paint but unfortunately I live in a small apartment with really nowhere to do that. Did manage to stick a couple of LEDs in it: 
Kazy fucked around with this message at 21:31 on Oct 9, 2013 |
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Oct 9, 2013 21:28
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I marked it as one for KS to notify me before it finishes in the hopes that some more progress would be shown by then, but so far the updates appear to just be a bunch of "look at these websites/blogs/tweets we were featured in!" I feel like when it becomes painfully obvious you're going to be vastly overfunded, you might should get crackin' sooner rather than later.
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Oct 9, 2013 21:32
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Honestly at a hundred bucks I think anyone expecting very good print quality is kidding themselves, but on the other hand, I feel like if it's at all passable it'll be worth the money. I backed it, but I'm not really expecting anything great.
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Oct 9, 2013 21:49
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Mostly, I'm curious where, exactly, the faults lie. That is, if a person took this design and, say, doubled the budget, would it be possible to make MUCH better prints, or would they only be marginally better? I think keeping the printer to a very cheap budget is cool, but I think this style is pretty new so I'm curious what the "floaty drippy submerged polar/non-polar liquid galvanometer mounted laser printer" spectrum will look like.
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Oct 9, 2013 21:55
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Bad Munki posted:Mostly, I'm curious where, exactly, the faults lie. That is, if a person took this design and, say, doubled the budget, would it be possible to make MUCH better prints, or would they only be marginally better? I think keeping the printer to a very cheap budget is cool, but I think this style is pretty new so I'm curious what the "floaty drippy submerged polar/non-polar liquid galvanometer mounted laser printer" spectrum will look like. Yea, I think that his design cuts too many corners. BUT for $100 to back a fellow Canadian, building a brand new idea, that scales well to larger sizes, and does some really interesting things, seems well worth it to me. It could lead to a whole new way that 3d printing gets done, and that's a good thing. Further the concept of floating the print solution on salt water so that you can print right side up instead of upside down is still genius in my mind and worth $100 of my money regardless of the final product quality. From what I am seeing the errors are coming from: ->DIY Galvanometers (At first I thought the whole idea of galvanometers instead of steppers was foolish, but I have been educated that it is not, as well the analog nature of a galvanometer may actually help to eliminate the layering effect when they respond accurately and uniformly- much like how the variable cure of the laser/DLP projection of the form-1//B9 leads to smoother looking prints) ->Driving it from a sound card- DACs are cheap, have virtually no noise, and can be placed right next to the galvanometers so that they don't pick up ambient noise form being analog along a wire that may act as an antenna, or pick up cross talk from the OTHER channels. I'd still like to see a fully digital positioning system with high accuracy rather then DAC, but its a proven technology for laser light shows, so I may be over-thinking it. Sound cards are not good though. ->Drip detection: If the system misses drips, or over-counts due to rejoining of the drip it could expand/crush the print over time. ->Home built mirrors: Aluminum sprayed plastic. The fact that these are not going to reflect cleanly should be evident to all. ->Home built lenses: Again, that this setup will not be focusing the beam in an ideal way should be pretty obvious. Due to the high response of moving a tiny mirror to cover your printing area a finely focused lens could be critical to achieving unbelievable quality in prints. Things that I don't think will actually effect it: ->Inaccurate drip system: I'm not sure how much of an issue this one really is over the entirety of a print again the analog nature of this may actually be good; if the average of 1000 drips is 1mm, and you are printing at 1 layer per 10 drips that layer 1 is .011mm and layer 2 is .009mm may lead to less visible layering effect on the final print. So all it should come down to is establishing a good average for what constitutes a drip <might need to use distilled water with a measured amount of salt to prevent drips from having more/less cohesion>
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Oct 9, 2013 22:30
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