|
I got an Ehmar 1:35th German WWI Artillery kit, and drat, the figures are abysmal. It's like they took their 1:72 kit and inflated it without additional details. The gun itself is okay, I guess, and has much more detail and sharper molding.
Ensign Expendable fucked around with this message at 05:49 on Sep 27, 2013 |
#
?
Sep 27, 2013 00:02
|
|
|
|
| # ? May 16, 2024 10:28 |
|
|
Midjack posted:Fishing sinkers. Tried it. Not enough weight, believe it or not.
|
|
#
?
Sep 27, 2013 00:25
|
|
|
Nebakenezzer posted:Tried it. Not enough weight, believe it or not. got a source for sheet lead? Know any x-ray service guys?
|
|
#
?
Sep 27, 2013 02:11
|
|
|
Nebakenezzer posted:Tried it. Not enough weight, believe it or not.
|
|
#
?
Sep 27, 2013 06:03
|
|
|
Pierzak posted:Depleted uranium. Osmium for maximum density though it's an inhalation hazard like DU.
|
|
#
?
Sep 27, 2013 23:31
|
|
|
Midjack posted:Osmium for maximum density though it's an inhalation hazard like DU. Post hot model kits and the densest materials u got The instructions say that 40 g of weight should go into the nose, but the nose is where the front landing gear strut is, as well as the (minimal) cockpit detail.
|
|
#
?
Sep 28, 2013 00:09
|
|
|
Not a bad week, but the photo is poo poo. From left to right Zvezda PZ IV Ausf D Flames of War Stug III Zvezda Sd.Kfz.251/1 Ausf.B Zvezda Sd.Kfz.222 Plastic Soldier T-70 (not as red as in photo) Zvezda T-34/76 (mod 1940) Flames of War Firefly Flames of War Sherman
|
|
#
?
Sep 30, 2013 06:47
|
|
|
Are those 1/100 scale? Can you post more detailed photos? I kind of want to buy a bunch of 1/100 models and make dioramas of some smaller famous battles (Raseiniai, Ogledow, etc), where even 1/72 would be pushing it, space-wise.
|
|
#
?
Sep 30, 2013 14:37
|
|
|
Ensign Expendable posted:Are those 1/100 scale? Can you post more detailed photos? I kind of want to buy a bunch of 1/100 models and make dioramas of some smaller famous battles (Raseiniai, Ogledow, etc), where even 1/72 would be pushing it, space-wise. I'm gonna try to get better shots later this week. I'm down to one light in my basement, so I should probably fix that first. The Flames of War stuff is probably your best bet for getting obscure models, but the stuff I have is from the Open Fire! box so is plastic instead of resin and metal.
|
|
#
?
Sep 30, 2013 15:32
|
|
|
LASER CUTTING!!!!!   
|
|
#
?
Sep 30, 2013 15:46
|
|
|
Jonny Nox posted:They're 1/100 scale. Okay, I found my 10 year old Z10, so I can take something like macro photos. (My normal camera is a D50, but no macro lenses makes taking pictures very hit/miss) If you want more, I can post properly lit photos when I get off my lazy rear end and set up some kind of diffuse lighting setup. Anyways. Zvezda 1/100 models are somewhat limited in range, being almost entirely eastern front combatants. They are part of their Art of Tactic wargame line, I guess, but are relatively well detailed and snap together which makes for rapid assembly if that's what you want. The four I've built have been free of molding and fitment problems. Sold as single models, I pay $5-$6 per model in Canada. There is no decals, and no figures or stowage on the sprue. A flag can be attached to the back though!   This one turns out to be not even remotely finished. I'm going to have to figure out a way to make my photos look more like real life, since the contrast is being jacked way up. Plastic Soldier models come in 1/100 and 1/72 scale. I've only seen them in group boxes, but apparently they sell single tank and battalion deals as well. They are very detailed but still quite limited in range. Although they have Western front tanks. They also sell soldiers, heavy weapons, and half tracks (with figures) There were no decals in the box I bought, but there was a tank commander figure. The pack I bought was 5 T-70s for about $29. I'm going to go back next week and grab a box set with 5 M-3s and, like, 40 crewen. The fitment and molding were incredibly nice, but ejection pegs on the back of the tracks are an annoyance. Expect to pay around $30 for a box of 4-5 vehicles, or ~120 soldier, or 12 heavy weapons with 60 crew.  (sorry my camera liked the burnt sienna pigment so much) Finally, Flames of War are miniatures designed for a wargame and go together like wargame miniatures. The ones I have are plastic from their box set, but the stuff they sell singly are all resin and white metal. Very detailed from what I can see, they are going to be a lot more work to put together, and will have to be assembled with superglue. I'm assuming a lot of filler will be needed. The range of models is HUGE! Almost any tank, vehicle, heavy weapon, or troop type you can think of is available; including Finnish patrols, and Italian tanks (Look great, ran terrible apparently) Expensive too, they import from New Zealand if memory serves and a single tank will cost you $12 or more. Boxes of 3-4 tanks will push $80 easily. Tanks all come with a commander. Decal sheets are available seperatly, and I don't really know how they sell stowage. I'm pretty sure infantry all come with bases, which is nice. edit: Stowage is sold as part of platoon sets. Turrets are affixed with magnets.  I haven't measured any of these models to check if they are in scale, I can if you ask. Hope this helps, expect more braile scale tanks in the future.
|
|
#
?
Oct 1, 2013 03:48
|
|
|
Aw, they aren't as detailed as I had hoped. Oh well, looks like 1:72 it is. Thanks.
|
|
#
?
Oct 1, 2013 05:27
|
|
|
Honestly they're more detailed than my poo poo photography makes them look. But they're certainly not up to 1/72 scale standards. I would say for huge dioramas any of the companies I posted would be more than adequate. If you are focusing on the tanks, go larger scale. Comparing my T-34 with the Dragon Armor Pro version you really see the difference in hatch covers and smaller panels. Plus tow hooks are actual hooks not place holders etc. You'll notice the hull machine gun is not even there, tow ropes are molded on, rivets are missing. I'm still going to keep making them though (because they can be finished in a day or two) edit: I'm starting to get this old camera to do what I want it to. sometimes. Anyways here's some figures I had laying around. Italeri Hussar, Flames of War US paratrooper LT, Airfix USAAF bomber navigator  edit 2: From the front (original file this time click for larger)  
Jonny Nox fucked around with this message at 06:18 on Oct 1, 2013 |
|
#
?
Oct 1, 2013 05:49
|
|
|
Ensign Expendable posted:Aw, they aren't as detailed as I had hoped. Oh well, looks like 1:72 it is. Thanks. You might want to check out the 1/144 Dragon armor range.
|
|
#
?
Oct 1, 2013 14:36
|
|
|
I've brushed painted all my life (only just getting backing into modelling), but thanks to some spare cash I can finally get an airbrush. I've already bought a small compressor (like this one http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Auto-Start-Stop-Air-Brush-Compressor-Airbrush-Holder-Kit-Art-Make-Up-Free-Hose/140903827581). Now I need an airbrush and probably a hose. Does this airbrush look any good? http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/190517807516?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1438.l2649 Cars and planes is what I'll be painting mostly. Would that airbrush be fine with both acrylic and enamel paints? Unfortunately the more talked about airbrush brands (paasche etc) don't seem to be readily available here in Australia, but there seems to be many cheap and cheerful models on ebay like the one above, so I'm hoping it will be ok. Remember too that prices here are insanely expensive for anything hobby related. While I've supported my local hobby shop for most kits and small tools, I just can't afford to pay ~$350 for a small air compressor and $150 for an airbrush, so my choices are realistically limited to online/ebay.
|
|
#
?
Oct 2, 2013 12:37
|
|
|
That looks like a decent starter airbrush. The double action will give you more control over the size and intensity of your spray, and a gravity fed airbrush is much easier to clean in my opinion than the suction type. Check out if you can get a replacement needle and different size nozzles before you buy though. Nothing sucks more than buying a nice and shiny airbrush, drop the needle on its tip once and figuring out that your airbrush just became useless because you can't find a replacement. And the different size nozzles will give you more flexibility so you dont find yourself using rattlecans for larger areas or a handbrush to paint smaller areas where using an airbrush would give you a nicer, more uniform look (like finely detailed camouflage patterns).
|
|
#
?
Oct 2, 2013 15:12
|
|
|
Yeah, looks like a decent airbrush. Looks only tell you so much though, so just be wary. Sort of looks like a knockoff Iwata. Although saying that, Iwata makes a lot airbrushes that are rebranded for other resellers. It's always better to spend more on an airbrush than less, if you can. A poor airbrush will simply frustrate you and produce bad results. There are no real starter airbrushes either, as virtually all airbrushes marketed as intro or starter brushes are complete garbage and suitable only for basecoating and little else. Single-action is usually best avoided for your main airbrush as well, as dual-action is only marginally more complex to use but gives you much more control than a single-action. Single-actions certainly have their place, but most people tend to save them for basecoating or spraying paint that is tough to work with and that you don't want clogging your pricier main airbrush.
|
|
#
?
Oct 2, 2013 23:01
|
|
|
Thanks heaps for the info. Based on that I'll look around some more for a reputable brand. If I get anything made by Iwata I should be ok?
|
|
#
?
Oct 2, 2013 23:44
|
|
|
Iwata is a good brand, as are Badger and Aztec. The higher end Revell ones are nice as well if you can get them for cheap.
|
|
#
?
Oct 3, 2013 00:22
|
|
|
I'm currently using a Harder & Steenbeck Infinity airbrush, and it's probably the nicest airbrush I've ever used. German-made, top quality, and sprays paint like a dream. Dead simply to disassemble and clean as well. My backup is a Paasche-TG, which is great because it can use a fan-tip and spray a line up to 6 inches wide. Perfect for basecoating big busts and fullsize sculpts.
|
|
#
?
Oct 3, 2013 01:59
|
|
|
Granite Octopus posted:Thanks heaps for the info. Based on that I'll look around some more for a reputable brand. If I get anything made by Iwata I should be ok? Harder and Steenbeck are so expensive, but I hear they are amazing. I have an Iwata Eclipse HP-CS and it is absolutely fantastic. You can print off a 40% hobby lobby coupon and go into store and get it cheaper than anywhere else. Some people will tell you that you should get a cheap brush and a nicer compressor, ignore this advice. I had one of those "blue-foam-plastic-box" Chinese ones they sell everywhere and it was absolutely garbage compared to my Iwata. It seriously turned me off of airbrushing and luckily my Iwata turned me back. You should still get a decent compressor though, the lovely ones work but they tend to overheat after 15-20 mins of continuous use.
|
|
#
?
Oct 3, 2013 05:44
|
|
|
So despite super-cleaning it inside and out as per the instructions, every time I use my brush I spend about 20% of the time painting and 80% of the time fussing with it. It will not spray at all, or spit and splatter everywhere, or cough and sputter. It will jam up the moment I stop painting. Switching colours involves taking the whole thing apart and cleaning again. I hate airbrushing. The brand is "master". Do I need a better brush or am I just somehow using the paints wrong or cleaning wrong?
|
|
#
?
Oct 3, 2013 16:52
|
|
|
Baronjutter posted:So despite super-cleaning it inside and out as per the instructions, every time I use my brush I spend about 20% of the time painting and 80% of the time fussing with it. It will not spray at all, or spit and splatter everywhere, or cough and sputter. It will jam up the moment I stop painting. Switching colours involves taking the whole thing apart and cleaning again. I hate airbrushing. The brand is "master". Do I need a better brush or am I just somehow using the paints wrong or cleaning wrong? Those are the same problems I have with my crappy master airbrush. You might need a better brush.
|
|
#
?
Oct 3, 2013 17:10
|
|
|
The whole setup was like $200 with the compressor and poo poo, so if I can find a good brand airbrush on sale or something one day I'm all set.
|
|
#
?
Oct 3, 2013 17:51
|
|
|
Baronjutter posted:The whole setup was like $200 with the compressor and poo poo, so if I can find a good brand airbrush on sale or something one day I'm all set. Look up the Neo CN for iwata - pretty cheap, parts are available, backed by iwata. It's probably the best budget airbrush you can get.
|
|
#
?
Oct 3, 2013 18:35
|
|
|
Probably is the brush causing problems, but have you tried different brands of paint to see if any one particular brand is causing you issues? Every brand of paint is formulated differently, and ones where the pigments aren't ground super-fine, or have particularly quick-drying binders in them, can cause issues in airbrushes.
|
|
#
?
Oct 3, 2013 19:33
|
|
|
Paint can make a *large* difference here: Vallejo and Tamiya I've never had problems with, (using the purpose-thinner and iso alcohol respectively as thinners) while I've often had a bitch bastards whore of a time with some testors enamels. Their acrylics need a retarder to keep from jamming your airbrush, but otherwise go on fine.
|
|
#
?
Oct 3, 2013 21:08
|
|
|
Nebakenezzer posted:Paint can make a *large* difference here: Vallejo and Tamiya I've never had problems with, (using the purpose-thinner and iso alcohol respectively as thinners) while I've often had a bitch bastards whore of a time with some testors enamels. Their acrylics need a retarder to keep from jamming your airbrush, but otherwise go on fine. I'm using mostly acrylics but I'm thinning the poo poo out of them with their brand thinner. I'm also using lovely craft-store cheap acrylics which I think with the same stuff or just water. I tried a few other brands of nice pain specifically for hobby air brushing but got the same or worse results. The cheap craft store paint actually ended up working the best.
|
|
#
?
Oct 3, 2013 21:11
|
|
|
Baronjutter posted:So despite super-cleaning it inside and out as per the instructions, every time I use my brush I spend about 20% of the time painting and 80% of the time fussing with it. It will not spray at all, or spit and splatter everywhere, or cough and sputter. It will jam up the moment I stop painting. Switching colours involves taking the whole thing apart and cleaning again. I hate airbrushing. The brand is "master". Do I need a better brush or am I just somehow using the paints wrong or cleaning wrong? The only time I have my master airbrush screw up like that is when I fail to thin correctly. Often it is if I put the paint in, and then the thinner and don't mix well and the heavier paint tries to go through first and clogs it to hell. I use tamiya paints and generally go 50/50 but it can really depend on which color you're using. Having a thinner with retardant in it helps a lot as well.
|
|
#
?
Oct 3, 2013 21:53
|
|
|
I use Vallejo Model Air when airbrushing. It's pre-mixed for optimum flow/coverage, the pigments are finer and the colour tones are adjusted for spraying vs brush strokes.
|
|
#
?
Oct 4, 2013 02:56
|
|
|
Even model air is often too thick to airbrush right. I thin with liquitex airbrush medium and it's absolutely perfect.
|
|
#
?
Oct 4, 2013 07:42
|
|
|
Does anybody here use Hobby Lobby? Just FYI they are not fond of Jews. Or women having control over their own bodies.
|
|
#
?
Oct 4, 2013 16:31
|
|
|
I wish we had those in my country so I could boycott them. What a horrendously lovely company.
|
|
#
?
Oct 4, 2013 16:36
|
|
|
Nebakenezzer posted:Does anybody here use Hobby Lobby? Just FYI they are not fond of Jews. Or women having control over their own bodies. I would assume not, the one time I went into a hobby lobby it was nothing but crafts for old people to do while waiting to die. I don't even think they had a revell snap kit to buy.
|
|
#
?
Oct 4, 2013 18:16
|
|
|
I thought y'all might appreciate this guy's photo stream on Flickr. He builds models and then photographs them in a natural setting. Some really impressive results, I have to say. http://www.flickr.com/photos/24796741@N05/ and a quick interview/intro to his work: http://blog.flickr.net/en/2013/10/04/crafting-scenes-of-iconic-americana/  
|
|
#
?
Oct 4, 2013 18:56
|
|
|
God drat, that's some amazing work.
|
|
#
?
Oct 4, 2013 19:46
|
|
|
Nebakenezzer posted:Does anybody here use Hobby Lobby? Just FYI they are not fond of Jews. Or women having control over their own bodies. Hobby lobby is a hobby and craft store chain who is very open about their religious affiliation. You might also notice they are closed every Sunday. What it is not is a hateful sentient being who needs to be punished for their viewpoints. If you refuse to shop there because you don't like their products, prices, or customer service then that's fine... But if you boycott them because the owners and executives have viewpoints which don't align with yours, then the only people who suffer are the bottom tier employees (who I bet are happy to help you no matter who or what you are) who will be getting their hours cut as a result of slipping business. This thread doesn't need to have a social justice war.
|
|
#
?
Oct 4, 2013 21:58
|
|
|
pageerror404 posted:This thread doesn't need to have a social justice war. Hey, that's why I said FYI.
|
|
#
?
Oct 4, 2013 22:39
|
|
|
Baronjutter posted:LASER CUTTING!!!!! HELL YES. I'd love to have an awesome urban layout for 1/285 gaming
|
|
#
?
Oct 4, 2013 23:05
|
|
|
|
| # ? May 16, 2024 10:28 |
|
|
Decided to build another cheap soviet tank model, Zvezdas T-72 (got tired waiting for a decent kit of it)  
|
|
#
?
Oct 5, 2013 17:00
|
|