The HARDWARE Short Questions That Don't Deserve Their Own Thread

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Fiscal Conservative: Feb 26, 2006

So I�m building a computer for a friend and he bought this ridiculously massive case.

http://www.coolermaster-usa.com/product.php?product_id=2988&product_name=HAF%20X

There appears to be 2 hot swap bays in the front. Are they hot swap? or is it just a dock?
Can I add and remove the drives while the computer is on? Or would that gently caress poo poo up. I've never encountered this type of thing before.

# ? Oct 2, 2013 18:32

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# ? Jun 9, 2024 02:16

Alereon: Feb 6, 2004; Dehumanize yourself and face to Trumpshed; College Slice

Fiscal Conservative posted:

There appears to be 2 hot swap bays in the front. Are they hot swap? or is it just a dock?
Can I add and remove the drives while the computer is on? Or would that gently caress poo poo up. I've never encountered this type of thing before.

Yes, those are hot-swap bays, and you can add/remove drives while the system is running. You just need to make sure to use the "Safely remove hardware" icon in the lower-right corner to flush any buffers before removing a drive. You will need to make sure AHCI is enabled in the BIOS and that the AHCI drivers (Intel Rapid Storage Technology) are installed for this to work properly.

# ? Oct 2, 2013 18:38

future ghost: Dec 5, 2005; Gun Saliva

One Nut Wonder posted:

I was worried about that, but when I initiated the return it didn't even ask for an error code. It was just list the serial number, model number, and now they're shipping me a new drive with the advance replacement option. I then send the old drive back, and hopefully that's it. Has Seagate simply streamlined their return process, or did I gently caress something up? It seems a little too easy.

I think with the advance replacement option they won't even ask you for a code now. If they've already approved the RMA and everything you're in the clear.

# ? Oct 2, 2013 20:19

One Nut Wonder: Mar 17, 2009

Now there's a weird new development with this hard drive. The error messages have disappeared. Yesterday it looked like this:

And today it looks like this:

The only thing I did was to desperately copy 1.5 TB of stuff off the drive onto another good drive. Has anyone ever seen anything like this before? Is this magic? I'm still replacing the drive anyways because the new one's already on its way, but I think it's weird that all of a sudden it's displaying perfect health.

# ? Oct 3, 2013 00:14

Alereon: Feb 6, 2004; Dehumanize yourself and face to Trumpshed; College Slice

One Nut Wonder posted:

The only thing I did was to desperately copy 1.5 TB of stuff off the drive onto another good drive. Has anyone ever seen anything like this before? Is this magic? I'm still replacing the drive anyways because the new one's already on its way, but I think it's weird that all of a sudden it's displaying perfect health.

It's normal for the Current Pending Sector count to clear, that means the sector worked when retested and didn't need to be reallocated, but I think the drive is still failing given the very low Hardware ECC Recovered number. I've seen Seagate drives pass Seatools and show Healthy in CDI while clicking and barely able to read at all, so don't put TOO much stock into healthy error values reported.

# ? Oct 3, 2013 00:18

One Nut Wonder: Mar 17, 2009

Is there some sort of resource that explains in simpler terms what some of these attributes mean? The wikipedia article isn't easy to digest, and if there's some list of things to look out for, I'd love to see it. A S.M.A.R.T. for Dummies primer if you will. It just throws me for a loop when I hear things like "a higher number is better for this attribute" and "a lower number is better for that attribute."

# ? Oct 3, 2013 00:32

Incessant Excess: Aug 15, 2005; Cause of glitch:
Pretentiousness

I'm running WHS2011 with Drivepool v1.3, I managed to create a pool and now I'd like to be able to access that pool from the explorer on my desktop PC as though it were a local hard drive, can anyone tell me how to do this?

EDIT: Worked around it by creating a folder in the pool and sharing that through the dashboard, seems a bit silly having that unnecessary layer but whatever.

Incessant Excess fucked around with this message at 17:26 on Oct 3, 2013

# ? Oct 3, 2013 17:09

GrizzlyCow: May 30, 2011

Alereon posted:

It's normal for the Current Pending Sector count to clear, that means the sector worked when retested and didn't need to be reallocated, but I think the drive is still failing given the very low Hardware ECC Recovered number. I've seen Seagate drives pass Seatools and show Healthy in CDI while clicking and barely able to read at all, so don't put TOO much stock into healthy error values reported.

Is there any documentations that one could read to figure out how to decipher S.M.A.R.T. data? Other than when CDI spits out a Caution, I have no idea if my harddrive is dying or what numbers I should be worried by.

edit: or what One Nut Wonder said.

# ? Oct 3, 2013 18:07

future ghost: Dec 5, 2005; Gun Saliva

The wikipedia page on SMART values is good enough as a general guideline on failure indicators (some values are specific to manufacturers or drive models) :
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/S.M.A.R.T.

I usually keep an eye on Reported Uncorrectable Errors, Current Pending Sector Count, and Uncorrectable Sector Count in particular. If one of those goes up then (at least based on past experiences) the drive is dying and it's only going to get worse. I've seen Pending Sector counts go back down after a reboot only to resurface later, and by that point the drive is suspect anyways and not worth chancing while it's in warranty.

UltraDMA CRC Error Count will occasionally have a non-zero value by default if it's used in a laptop or isn't a Seagate drive, and sometimes a loose SATA cable will cause the count to increase. Not anything to worry about if the value is <2 although you'll want to check your SATA cables if it's higher than that. High-fly writes can also be a non-zero value for laptop drives, so monitor that especially if the G-sensor is tripped or the high-fly value is a fairly high number.

Command Timeout hasn't really ever indicated failure warnings in my experience at least for Seagate drives. I've had the value increase once or twice if the power cuts out while a drive is running, but unless it's increasing constantly and the drive is hanging the system it's not really worth worrying about a CR value of 1. Seagate drives have a non-zero hardware ECC recovered value from the factory that's "normal" that'll be higher than WD drives. If the threshold value is very low it's something to be concerned about however.

future ghost fucked around with this message at 18:46 on Oct 3, 2013

# ? Oct 3, 2013 18:43

a creepy colon: Oct 28, 2004; by Jeffrey of YOSPOS

Hey I just picked up a 3tb Seagate barricuda drive and windows is only displaying it as 746.39 gb capacity. Im on an AMD system and the bios detects all 3000gb so I know this is probably a windows deal but what gives? I formatted the drive, installed it as GTP or whatever, seagate says there isnt any newer drivers. Dont really know what else to do at this point.

e: also this is just extra storage, this isnt my boot drive.

a creepy colon fucked around with this message at 19:41 on Oct 3, 2013

# ? Oct 3, 2013 19:36

Aphrodite: Jun 27, 2006

It's a driver issue. For an Intel system it would be the RST driver, but I don't know what you would do with AMD.

Edit: Apparently it's also possible for the chipset to simply be out of date for a 3tb drive. How old is the system?

Aphrodite fucked around with this message at 19:50 on Oct 3, 2013

# ? Oct 3, 2013 19:48

a creepy colon: Oct 28, 2004; by Jeffrey of YOSPOS

Oh good lord, it could be the chipset, this mobo is pretty old and lovely. It is from a big-box store HP setup from like '08 or '09. I changed out the CPU to an AMD Phenom II quad core @3.0ghz, put in 8gb of ram, a new 500w psu and an EVGA GTX 460. It has been a great system and this was going to be my last upgrade before I moved onto a new setup sometime in the future.

# ? Oct 3, 2013 20:19

AirRaid: Dec 21, 2004; Nose Manual + Super Sonic Spin Attack

This isn't really worth it's own thread, but also isn't really a problem, more just looking for advice.

I'm looking to buy some external storage (2TB minimum really) to store video (Movies/TV) on, to be accessed by a WDTV Live. Can be networked or just USB, but I have a feeling USB would be the cheaper option, which is a big factor.

I don't want to spend too much, but I don't want to cheap out and get something that will fail horribly in a couple of months. Any suggestions for what to get, or what to avoid?

# ? Oct 3, 2013 20:41

Alereon: Feb 6, 2004; Dehumanize yourself and face to Trumpshed; College Slice

Limastock posted:

Oh good lord, it could be the chipset, this mobo is pretty old and lovely. It is from a big-box store HP setup from like '08 or '09. I changed out the CPU to an AMD Phenom II quad core @3.0ghz, put in 8gb of ram, a new 500w psu and an EVGA GTX 460. It has been a great system and this was going to be my last upgrade before I moved onto a new setup sometime in the future.

Note that the system must have AHCI (versus legacy IDE compatible mode) enabled on the SATA controller for this to work. If it's not enabled now you must follow these steps in Windows 7 to prevent a bluescreen when starting Windows. Make sure AHCI is enabled in the BIOS, update the BIOS if enabled, and install the latest AHCI controller drivers from the AMD website. If you have an older 6-series AMD chipset, you will need to install them manually via Device Manager (as the installer will not support your hardware).

If none of the above works, your capacity limit is 2TB. It sounds like it should work if configured properly though.

# ? Oct 3, 2013 20:45

Elderbean: Jun 10, 2013

How much room should be on either side of a tower to ensure adequate cooling? My future room will be pretty small, and I might have to push it pretty close to a wall.

# ? Oct 4, 2013 18:08

Alereon: Feb 6, 2004; Dehumanize yourself and face to Trumpshed; College Slice

Elderbean posted:

How much room should be on either side of a tower to ensure adequate cooling? My future room will be pretty small, and I might have to push it pretty close to a wall.

Depends entirely on your case design. Most systems suck cool air in the front and blow hot air out the back and don't really care about clearance on the sides.

# ? Oct 4, 2013 18:11

doctorfrog: Mar 14, 2007; Great.

If your PSU is mounted on the bottom, your case should probably be on a non-carpeted surface with room on at least one side.

doctorfrog fucked around with this message at 18:35 on Oct 4, 2013

# ? Oct 4, 2013 18:33

Incessant Excess: Aug 15, 2005; Cause of glitch:
Pretentiousness

I recently bought a small server and would like to put it in my wardrobe so the noise doesn't bother me. Is this a terrible idea? There'd be some free space on all sides of the thing but poor airflow since the door would be closed obviously. This is the server in question: http://www.amazon.com/HP-ProLiant-MicroServer-704941-001-Server/dp/B00AKWUZ58/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1380913846&sr=8-1&keywords=n54l

Has a 150w PSU.

# ? Oct 4, 2013 20:12

Elderbean: Jun 10, 2013

Alereon posted:

Depends entirely on your case design. Most systems suck cool air in the front and blow hot air out the back and don't really care about clearance on the sides.

It's a 650D.

# ? Oct 4, 2013 22:20

Applebees Appetizer: Jan 23, 2006

My desktop has been having issues for the past few months, and after trying to get it sorted out (replacing HD) and having the same problems I took it to an indy shop to get it checked out. They also had a hard time figuring out what was going on at first, but finally narrowed it down to the motherboard. They quoted me $140 to replace it which isn't bad, but I'm assuming (I'll find out for sure tomorrow) that it will probably be some sort of generic replacement. Are there any motherboards I should be considering that are cheaper and/or better? Should I take this opportunity and upgrade? For reference, it's a Lenovo 1tbHD 6gbRam Win7 and I use it mostly for media type stuff (lots of videos, pictures and music) and have thought about converting it to a HTPC.

# ? Oct 5, 2013 03:11

future ghost: Dec 5, 2005; Gun Saliva

Biggest human being Ever posted:

I recently bought a small server and would like to put it in my wardrobe so the noise doesn't bother me. Is this a terrible idea? There'd be some free space on all sides of the thing but poor airflow since the door would be closed obviously. This is the server in question: http://www.amazon.com/HP-ProLiant-MicroServer-704941-001-Server/dp/B00AKWUZ58/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1380913846&sr=8-1&keywords=n54l

Has a 150w PSU.

You'd probably run into overheating issues doing that without some kind of active venting setup (AC fans) built into the cabinet, which would likely defeat the purpose. Installing fan resistors on the server might be a better option, although most AIO boxes like that would have hardware controls built-in to prevent booting or shutdown if it detected a fan failure so you'd have to figure out how to work around that and deal with the :effort:

involved. I used a Dell workstation for video encoding at one point and it was a pain in the rear end using custom fans (stock fans were loud as poo poo) but ended up working out after jumping a few specific pins.

leica posted:

Are there any motherboards I should be considering that are cheaper and/or better? Should I take this opportunity and upgrade? For reference, it's a Lenovo 1tbHD 6gbRam Win7 and I use it mostly for media type stuff (lots of videos, pictures and music) and have thought about converting it to a HTPC.

Depends on what CPU it's using and the model of the unit. If it's using a sandybridge or ivybridge CPU you can probably just get any board that will fit in the case as long as the socket matches what you currently have. I certainly wouldn't spend $140 on another Lenovo OEM board for the box, and if it's an older CPU socket you may want to consider upgrading anyways for the price.

future ghost fucked around with this message at 04:20 on Oct 5, 2013

# ? Oct 5, 2013 04:09

Geoj: May 28, 2008; BITTER POOR PERSON

LCD Deathpanel posted:

You'd probably run into overheating issues doing that without some kind of active venting setup (AC fans) built into the cabinet, which would likely defeat the purpose. Installing fan resistors on the server might be a better option, although most AIO boxes like that would have hardware controls built-in to prevent booting or shutdown if it detected a fan failure so you'd have to figure out how to work around that and deal with the involved. I used a Dell workstation for video encoding at one point and it was a pain in the rear end using custom fans (stock fans were loud as poo poo) but ended up working out after jumping a few specific pins.

Honestly it depends on what you're doing with it. I've had an old Dell northwood P4-based tower doing duty as a DHCP/file server and torrent slave in a closet for the past five years and never had heat issues. FWIW it only exceeds 20% CPU utilization when I VNC into it from my desktop. Depending on his application with that (which, given the system appears to be destined for a low-utilization file server) he'll probably be fine.

# ? Oct 5, 2013 04:29

Applebees Appetizer: Jan 23, 2006

LCD Deathpanel posted:

Depends on what CPU it's using and the model of the unit. If it's using a sandybridge or ivybridge CPU you can probably just get any board that will fit in the case as long as the socket matches what you currently have. I certainly wouldn't spend $140 on another Lenovo OEM board for the box, and if it's an older CPU socket you may want to consider upgrading anyways for the price.

The machine is a Lenovo H420 7752

Config #57300827 (?? whatever that means)

CPU is SNB C13 2100 3.1

Any suggestions on a decent replacement/upgrade would be great.

# ? Oct 5, 2013 05:18

future ghost: Dec 5, 2005; Gun Saliva

Geoj posted:

Honestly it depends on what you're doing with it. I've had an old Dell northwood P4-based tower doing duty as a DHCP/file server and torrent slave in a closet for the past five years and never had heat issues. FWIW it only exceeds 20% CPU utilization when I VNC into it from my desktop. Depending on his application with that (which, given the system appears to be destined for a low-utilization file server) he'll probably be fine.

That's a good point. As low-power as the box is designed to be it might be alright. It's probably worth trying out as long as the temperatures are monitored for the first week or so to make sure it isn't getting too warm.

leica posted:

The machine is a Lenovo H420 7752

Config #57300827 (?? whatever that means)

CPU is SNB C13 2100 3.1

Any suggestions on a decent replacement/upgrade would be great.

Unless I'm mistaken that looks like it has an i3 2100 in it which is fine to hold onto. Any Sandybridge-compatible micro-ATX motherboard should be a decent replacement. MSI or ASUS are solid brands. You should look for a socket 1155 board like one of these (these are probably even overkill since you could likely get something with an H77 chipset cheaper):
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16813130647
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16813131832

# ? Oct 5, 2013 06:33

Applebees Appetizer: Jan 23, 2006

Cool, thanks. If I decided to do this myself installation is pretty straightforward I assume, but as far as getting it to work would it just be plug and play or is it more involved?

[edit] I just talked to the guys at the shop and they are going to replace it with the same Lenovo motherboard. I'll go ahead and pay the $140 since they hosed with it for two days trying to pinpoint the problem. Not worth the hassle doing it myself trying to save 20 bucks anyway :v:

Applebees Appetizer fucked around with this message at 17:26 on Oct 5, 2013

# ? Oct 5, 2013 06:51

A Proper Uppercut: Sep 30, 2008

So my girlfriends somewhat crappy laptop's HDD appears to be making GBS threads the bed. I found a cheap replacement already, but I'm not exactly sure how to get windows on the new drive. The laptop didn't come with any discs and of course she didn't make the recovery cds. It has Win 7, and I happen to have a cd copy of it from an install on another PC. Would it be possible to get the cd key off the current installation of Windows on the laptop and use it to activate it on the reinstall? Looking at the product key in the system menu is some weird number with OEM in the middle so I'm not sure if that would work.

# ? Oct 6, 2013 18:27

Alereon: Feb 6, 2004; Dehumanize yourself and face to Trumpshed; College Slice

A Proper Uppercut posted:

So my girlfriends somewhat crappy laptop's HDD appears to be making GBS threads the bed. I found a cheap replacement already, but I'm not exactly sure how to get windows on the new drive. The laptop didn't come with any discs and of course she didn't make the recovery cds. It has Win 7, and I happen to have a cd copy of it from an install on another PC. Would it be possible to get the cd key off the current installation of Windows on the laptop and use it to activate it on the reinstall? Looking at the product key in the system menu is some weird number with OEM in the middle so I'm not sure if that would work.

You should be able to reinstall using another disc and the product key from the sticker on the underside of the machine. You may need to call Microsoft to activate.

# ? Oct 6, 2013 18:32

A Proper Uppercut: Sep 30, 2008

The sticker is worn off enough that I can't read it anymore. Is there any way to get the key from in Windows?

# ? Oct 6, 2013 18:41

Geoj: May 28, 2008; BITTER POOR PERSON

Caveat to the above - often when dealing with OEM installed MS operating systems the key on the sticker is a VLK (volume license key) and won't work with an off the shelf copy of windows. You might see if you can obtain a replacement recovery disc from the manufacturer, I find it hard to believe that any major manufacturer would ship a system without a recovery disc.

You could also try cloning the existing drive to the new one, if the laptop uses a SATA drive you can connect it to a desktop using the same data and power cables as a 3.5" drive.

# ? Oct 6, 2013 18:43

Alereon: Feb 6, 2004; Dehumanize yourself and face to Trumpshed; College Slice

A Proper Uppercut posted:

The sticker is worn off enough that I can't read it anymore. Is there any way to get the key from in Windows?

There are key retrieval programs, for example Magical Jellybean's Keyfinder, but I don't think the key it will retrieve will work for a new installation, because when the OEM installs Windows the licensing information is contained in a certificate embedded in the BIOS.

Geoj posted:

Caveat to the above - often when dealing with OEM installed MS operating systems the key on the sticker is a VLK (volume license key) and won't work with an off the shelf copy of windows. You might see if you can obtain a replacement recovery disc from the manufacturer, I find it hard to believe that any major manufacturer would ship a system without a recovery disc.

It sounds like you're referring to how Windows XP worked, later versions of Windows have very different licensing schemes. No OEMs ship systems with recovery media, it's up to the owner to burn recovery discs or make backups themselves. It would also be a poor choice to attempt to image from a failing harddrive to a new one, because you just copy over all the problems caused by the failing drive.

Alereon fucked around with this message at 18:48 on Oct 6, 2013

# ? Oct 6, 2013 18:45

A Proper Uppercut: Sep 30, 2008

Alereon posted:

There are key retrieval programs, for example Magical Jellybean's Keyfinder, but I don't think the key it will retrieve will work for a new installation, because when the OEM installs Windows the licensing information is contained in a certificate embedded in the BIOS.
It sounds like you're referring to how Windows XP worked, later versions of Windows have very different licensing schemes. No OEMs ship systems with recovery media, it's up to the owner to burn recovery discs or make backups themselves. It would also be a poor choice to attempt to image from a failing harddrive to a new one, because you just copy over all the problems caused by the failing drive.

All that being said then, what options do I have? If the key on the back is worn off and the key it would retrieve would be no good, I'm not sure where to go from here. I thought about cloning the drive and came to the same conclusion, also.

# ? Oct 6, 2013 19:01

dotster: Aug 28, 2013

A Proper Uppercut posted:

So my girlfriends somewhat crappy laptop's HDD appears to be making GBS threads the bed. I found a cheap replacement already, but I'm not exactly sure how to get windows on the new drive. The laptop didn't come with any discs and of course she didn't make the recovery cds. It has Win 7, and I happen to have a cd copy of it from an install on another PC. Would it be possible to get the cd key off the current installation of Windows on the laptop and use it to activate it on the reinstall? Looking at the product key in the system menu is some weird number with OEM in the middle so I'm not sure if that would work.

If the drive is still working well enough to copy data off of it you can just move the disk image from one drive to another and not have to re-install at all. There are several tools around that can do this, Acronis True Image, ImageX, etc.

# ? Oct 6, 2013 19:12

Geoj: May 28, 2008; BITTER POOR PERSON

Alereon posted:

It would also be a poor choice to attempt to image from a failing harddrive to a new one, because you just copy over all the problems caused by the failing drive.

v0v worst case scenario is you're out a few hours of time and have to format your new drive again. Given the situation he's in I think it would be worth a try.

# ? Oct 6, 2013 19:16

Alereon: Feb 6, 2004; Dehumanize yourself and face to Trumpshed; College Slice

Geoj posted:

v0v worst case scenario is you're out a few hours of time and have to format your new drive again. Given the situation he's in I think it would be worth a try.

While I see the point you're making, the actual worst-case scenario is a quasi-working Windows installation that is very problematic but they either limp along with or end up forced into doing a reload quite some time down the road. If that's your only option then you do what you have to do, but people tend not to consider the more likely middle-case where it isn't straight-up broken but never works properly again.

# ? Oct 6, 2013 20:00

dotster: Aug 28, 2013

Alereon posted:

While I see the point you're making, the actual worst-case scenario is a quasi-working Windows installation that is very problematic but they either limp along with or end up forced into doing a reload quite some time down the road. If that's your only option then you do what you have to do, but people tend not to consider the more likely middle-case where it isn't straight-up broken but never works properly again.

If this is the concern then I would do a fresh install and use windows easy transfer tool to move all the user data between machines. WET will give you a list of suggested apps to install once the data is migrated so you will have a fresh instal and the risk of a system that is "half-broke" is very low. This is also pretty fast.

# ? Oct 6, 2013 20:26

Geoj: May 28, 2008; BITTER POOR PERSON

Alereon posted:

While I see the point you're making, the actual worst-case scenario is a quasi-working Windows installation that is very problematic but they either limp along with or end up forced into doing a reload quite some time down the road. If that's your only option then you do what you have to do, but people tend not to consider the more likely middle-case where it isn't straight-up broken but never works properly again.

I'm looking at it more from the standpoint of "clone drive, see if issues persist. If system is stable, end troubleshooting. If system is still unstable, proceed to clean install of operating system." If the drive is so far gone that you can't clone it or there is irreparable damage to the OS it should show itself in short order.

# ? Oct 6, 2013 20:30

nitrogen: May 21, 2004; Oh, what's a 217°C difference between friends?

Does a S.M.A.R.T. Extended self-test negatively impact disk performance?

how often should I run one? I have a raidz of 5 2tb disks currently (will upgrade to a raidz2 shortly, yes, I know a raid5-ish is bad when you have more than 500g per disk)

For the anal retentive datahog types:

code:

$ zpool status tank
  pool: tank
 state: ONLINE
  scan: scrub repaired 0 in 3h44m with 0 errors on Sun Oct  6 12:15:17 2013
config:

        NAME        STATE     READ WRITE CKSUM
        tank        ONLINE       0     0     0
          raidz1-0  ONLINE       0     0     0
            c3t1d0  ONLINE       0     0     0
            c3t3d0  ONLINE       0     0     0
            c5t0d0  ONLINE       0     0     0
            c5t3d0  ONLINE       0     0     0
            c3t2d0  ONLINE       0     0     0

errors: No known data errors

$ echo| pfexec format
Searching for disks...done


AVAILABLE DISK SELECTIONS:
       0. c3t0d0 <ATA-HitachiHTS54502-C60W cyl 30398 alt 2 hd 255 sec 63>
          /pci@0,0/pci1849,4391@11/disk@0,0
       1. c3t1d0 <ATA-ST2000DL003-9VT1-CC32-1.82TB>
          /pci@0,0/pci1849,4391@11/disk@1,0
       2. c3t2d0 <ATA-ST2000DL003-9VT1-CC32-1.82TB>
          /pci@0,0/pci1849,4391@11/disk@2,0
       3. c3t3d0 <ATA-ST2000DM001-1CH1-CC27-1.82TB>
          /pci@0,0/pci1849,4391@11/disk@3,0
       4. c5t0d0 <ATA-ST2000DL003-9VT1-CC3C-1.82TB>
          /pci@0,0/pci1022,1512@4/pci1b4b,9215@0/disk@0,0
       5. c5t3d0 <ATA-ST2000DL003-9VT1-CC32-1.82TB>
          /pci@0,0/pci1022,1512@4/pci1b4b,9215@0/disk@3,0
Specify disk (enter its number): Specify disk (enter its number):

# ? Oct 6, 2013 22:36

Narzack: Sep 15, 2008

I have an NZXT case with a CPU heatsink and fan and one casefan cannibalized from on old watercooling unit. Right now I have the case fan mounted in the back. Do I want that fan blowing air in or out?

EDIT- I'm pretty sure this is my case: http://www.frozencpu.com/products/10024/cst-983/NZXT_Gamma_Classic_Series_Mid-Tower_Case.html?gclid=CKzkrZj7g7oCFejm7AodyQsAbw

# ? Oct 7, 2013 06:11

Twinty Zuleps: May 10, 2008; by R. Guyovich; Lipstick Apathy

Hey. My power supply has an issue that I only just now realized might do real damage to something someday. Two or three times since I've owned it, one of the inner cables to the motherboard has come ever so slightly loose. If I just press it back into place everything is peachy for two more years. Could one of those cables breaking its connection while the computer is running do real damage to something? If it's not a threat to the integrity of anything, I'd rather not replace it. I've had the thing since 2006.

...should a power supply from 2006 just be replaced anyway?

If it matters at all, this is the exact unit.
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16817182029

# ? Oct 7, 2013 10:25

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# ? Jun 9, 2024 02:16

Fruits of the sea: Dec 1, 2010

Wulfolme posted:

...should a power supply from 2006 just be replaced anyway?

Yes.

# ? Oct 7, 2013 10:51

The Something Awful Forums > Discussion > Serious Hardware/Software Crap > The HARDWARE Short Questions That Don't Deserve Their Own Thread

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