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Qwijib0 posted:Bright enough for a bedroom, but I'd want more for a kitchen. Ok thanks. The 4" LED we used seems to cover about a 3' x 3' area at best. The other issue with running multiple 4" cans linked together is how to cram all the wires into the little junction boxes- especially if it's a 3-way switch. I don't think it's possible, the j-boxes are about 3" square.
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Oct 8, 2013 05:31
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My backyard has a drainage/erosion problem. My house sits on a hill and the north side of it neighbors another home that is a few feet above mine. Water from their side washes toward my house and makes its way around the back corner and straight down a gradual slope. This is exacerbated by the rainfall pouring out of my gutters to join this little creek. It is beginning to take earth away from the backside of my house and I would like to take care of it before it starts getting dangerously close to my foundation. If it already isn't. This is more a request for resources to read up on. I think getting an all encompassing answer for the larger problem is not really feasible at the moment.
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Oct 8, 2013 13:34
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Aflicted posted:My backyard has a drainage/erosion problem. My house sits on a hill and the north side of it neighbors another home that is a few feet above mine. Water from their side washes toward my house and makes its way around the back corner and straight down a gradual slope. This is exacerbated by the rainfall pouring out of my gutters to join this little creek. It is beginning to take earth away from the backside of my house and I would like to take care of it before it starts getting dangerously close to my foundation. If it already isn't. This is more a request for resources to read up on. I think getting an all encompassing answer for the larger problem is not really feasible at the moment.
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Oct 8, 2013 18:02
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GWBBQ posted:Look into French drains and foundation drains. If you can get a French drain a few feet from the house, re-grade so water runs away from your house and into it, and pipe your gutters into it, it might be an all-in-one solution. If the water is of a volume and speed to cause erosion, this might only be a partial solution. You'll really need to not only address the grading issue, but address it in the right way. Adding in a rain garden, hearty plants, rock trenches, etc will help manage the volume and slow down that water flow. You requested resources, so here's one and here's another.
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Oct 8, 2013 20:33
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Killing Flies posted:If the water is of a volume and speed to cause erosion, this might only be a partial solution. You'll really need to not only address the grading issue, but address it in the right way. Adding in a rain garden, hearty plants, rock trenches, etc will help manage the volume and slow down that water flow. You requested resources, so here's one and here's another. This is entirely correct. A french drain is the wrong solution for moving water. The extent to which you want to go to ameliorate the situation largely depends on budget. I would start with a block wall set partly into grade with drainage rock + perforated pipe behind it with groundcover plants such as Blue Rug Juniper or Vinca Minor set above the wall to slow the water down. The addition of a retaining wall should allow you to pitch the terrain on the low side of the wall to divert remaining water to proper channels. The cheaper solution would be to add a dry creek bed(w/ buried perf pipe), dry wells, etc(as outlined in the links KF provided). If you decide to put in drainage pipe, it would also be worthwhile to ask your neighbor if they would be gracious enough to have their downspouts piped into your system. If the amount of water coming from uphill is minimal, you could possibly get by with just piping downspouts into buried ADS pipe and running it downhill. dinozaur fucked around with this message at 01:58 on Oct 9, 2013 |
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Oct 9, 2013 00:37
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Thanks for the replies everyone. Killing Flies I will definitely check into those links. I had already considered a french drain, but I really thought that was good for standing water or putting at the low point to prevent standing water? This is definitely moving water that collects at a sink hole that has formed where the builder buried the trash from building the house. My patio slab has split in half so I'm already in it to remove the patio slab and make some grading changes. I will have to take some pictures and draw in what I was thinking of in my head and then compare it to what I find in the reading material provided. I'll post back in here with my "idea" and see what you all think. I may just be able to get my hands on some surveyor equipment and actually provide slope grades if that is important.
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Oct 9, 2013 12:50
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socketwrencher posted:Ok thanks. The 4" LED we used seems to cover about a 3' x 3' area at best. The other issue with running multiple 4" cans linked together is how to cram all the wires into the little junction boxes- especially if it's a 3-way switch. I don't think it's possible, the j-boxes are about 3" square. You can get 3 14GA romex in there, barely. That's enough to have power, switch, and next light all wire-nutted. It was a tight fit though.
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Oct 9, 2013 18:59
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We are getting hornets in our downstairs bathroom, presumably through the vent fan. Is this a seasonal thing we will deal with as it gets cold? Trying to figure out how to deal with it without an exterminator. I assume I need to find out where the nest is between the fan and outside vent. Is there a trick to not getting a face full of hornets? Like when are they least active or even away from the nest? In Massachusetts if it matters for climate info.
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Oct 9, 2013 19:39
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uwaeve posted:We are getting hornets in our downstairs bathroom, presumably through the vent fan. Is this a seasonal thing we will deal with as it gets cold? Shouldn't it be getting cold in Massachusetts by now? Climb on the roof and look into the vent and see if you can see the hornets nest. You could always spray a liberal amount of wasp/hornet killer in the vent. I'd probably remove the fan and tape a plastic bag to the exhaust port inside the fan box to catch any liquid and dead wasps. If you want to make a trip into the attic, you could always replace the tubing between the fan and vent (making sure to remove and plug each side separately).
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Oct 9, 2013 20:32
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If you get an exterminator out they will spray in the powder and clean out the duct at the same time. Shouldn't be real pricey, and the stuff they use is way better than the stuff you can buy. I realize that it isn't DIY, but gently caress wasps. 
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Oct 9, 2013 20:44
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Qwijib0 posted:You can get 3 14GA romex in there, barely. That's enough to have power, switch, and next light all wire-nutted. It was a tight fit though. I tried to cram the following in: Power: Hot, neutral, ground Next light: Hot, neutral, ground Plus 3 pigtails to connect to the fixture. Total: 9 cables + nuts. Who designs these things LOL?
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Oct 9, 2013 23:51
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Wasn't there a furniture/tool restoration thread in this forum a while ago? I am trying to restore a chair with a seat containing S-shaped sinuous springs, but it is badly sagging (for my preferences). It was like this when I bought it. Assuming the frame can handle the stress, anyone know if it's possible to firm the seat up by adding a few more springs? If you live in Baltimore, you might have seen this chair sitting on a street corner every weekend for a month for some dude's moving sale. I believe it may be from the 1950s. 
uncloudy day fucked around with this message at 03:33 on Oct 10, 2013 |
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Oct 10, 2013 03:22
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I'd open it up a bit to see if the springs are really beat or if they are supposed to be tied but aren't anymore. I've had to re-tie coil springs on older sofas I was fixing so maybe there's a similar arrangement on a chair like that. Here's what I'm talking about : http://www.upholster.com/howto/zimtie.html
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Oct 10, 2013 17:01
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socketwrencher posted:I tried to cram the following in: Can light boxes are the one place where push-in connectors should be used. The space savings are worth it.
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Oct 10, 2013 17:25
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Tim Thomas posted:Can light boxes are the one place where push-in connectors should be used. The space savings are worth it. I may go that route. Interestingly the 6" LED Halo cans come with a larger box than the non-LED version. However there's one section where I'll need to use 6" "shorty" cans (don't know what they're called but they're 5.5" tall vs. 7.5")with an LED adapter and the boxes are smaller than the regular 6" LED cans.
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Oct 11, 2013 04:32
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Anyone have any advice or recommendations one what I could do about a pest woodpecker? Its been tearing apart my siding and nothing I do seems to help. I'm up on the side of the house almost every day with wood putty filling in the holes, I have a fake hawk that I move around every day, scare eyes placed all over the place, windchimes, wind socks and the second I hear it (usually only on weekends, at work during the week while its doing its thing). Problem is, that side of the house needs to be repainted. But thanks to some plumbing issues that cropped up during the summer, my budget for repainting is depleted. So some of the paint is flaking, and the woodpeckers are making it worse. Repairing the holes with wood putty just makes the bird peck around each spot. In the spring, the fucker put several golf ball sized holes in my window sills in a weekend while I was gone. Those were fixed the same way in short order, and once I fixed them, they stopped with the damage until now. Its been 3 weeks now of at least every other day up a ladder filling in holes. Hoping winter gets here soon, and it leaves... which I'm not even sure it will.
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Oct 11, 2013 23:59
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Woodpeckers typically will be going after insects sooo.... get rid of the insects.
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Oct 12, 2013 00:42
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Actually apparently male woodpeckers attract lady friends by making their knocking noise on things, and the louder the better. So they'll often find a metal chimney and bang the poo poo out of it, it's their way of going "HEY LADIEEEEEES!!!!" I have one that shows up like clockwork each year for a few weeks in the fall, surprised he hasn't come by yet. Pounding on my furnace chimney, makes quite the noise!
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Oct 12, 2013 02:51
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I've got a bit of plumbing I need to run, I'm tying into a supply line between my external faucet and its shutoff. Thing is, because of where I need to take it, I either need to add in a whole bunch of elbows which is dumb, or I need to shave just 1/4" out of a joist for about a 1" span. Is anyone going to complain about that? It's really just 1/4" off the bottom to make space for the PVC I'm running. Otherwise, I'd end up going THROUGH the joist, in which case a lot more material would be removed. I know structurally it'd be fine, but I never know what the rules are although I do know they're pretty specific sometimes. I can post a pic if needed. e: I did find this: quote:Joist Notching Rules 1) Not at the end of the joist, no problem there. 2) My depth is 1/4" on a 9" joist, no problem at all there. 3) About 1" of notch on a 9" joist, no problem at all there. 4) My notch will be about 1' form the end, joist is probably 15' long, so no problem there. I guess I'm good to go. Bad Munki fucked around with this message at 03:29 on Oct 12, 2013 |
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Oct 12, 2013 03:17
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Could you use PEX and not need elbows or a notch?
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Oct 12, 2013 04:27
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Syves posted:Anyone have any advice or recommendations one what I could do about a pest woodpecker? Do you see this woodpecker? Shotgun with bird shot should do the trick if you can make it out of the house fast enough.
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Oct 12, 2013 05:04
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Totally TWISTED posted:Could you use PEX and not need elbows or a notch?
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Oct 12, 2013 05:09
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I live within town, so anything that goes boom is out. But I had an exterminator evaluate things tonight, no bugs. But he thinks I have a power line running along about the level the bird is pecking at. On older houses like mine (1948), those lines tend to have a hum that the woodpeckers pick up and think their favorite snack is under there. So they drill holes all along in a line trying to find em, but they don't. So now, I have to talk with an electrician who won't think this is voodoo. Or, someone who can detect if there is a hum...
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Oct 12, 2013 06:19
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Pretty much every species of non-game bird in America is protected by federal law as well.
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Oct 12, 2013 07:49
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Those hornets that were getting in our bathroom are dying off. We had a pretty warm September and early October I guess. I realized that the vent goes up four inches then runs horizontally out the exterior wall with a little louvered vent. I think I'll just wait another week or so and pop that vent off and put a screen behind it. Hornet or hornetlets or whatever aren't small enough to get through screen, right? I'll probably spray as well, mainly I just don't want to get a facefull of hornets.
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Oct 12, 2013 15:45
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Bad Munki posted:I've got a bit of plumbing I need to run, I'm tying into a supply line between my external faucet and its shutoff. Thing is, because of where I need to take it, I either need to add in a whole bunch of elbows which is dumb, or I need to shave just 1/4" out of a joist for about a 1" span. Is anyone going to complain about that? It's really just 1/4" off the bottom to make space for the PVC I'm running. Otherwise, I'd end up going THROUGH the joist, in which case a lot more material would be removed. I know structurally it'd be fine, but I never know what the rules are although I do know they're pretty specific sometimes. A pic would be nice. You can always go through joists, but that's a bit more planning to do with plumbing due to how rigid it is.
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Oct 12, 2013 17:21
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My wife bought a birdhouse: We would like to mount it by our front door in the flower bed. What do I need to do to mount this securely? Can I just stick the stake straight into the ground, or is there something else I need to do? I just worry about it since it is quite top heavy.
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Oct 12, 2013 18:32
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clayburn posted:We would like to mount it by our front door in the flower bed. What do I need to do to mount this securely? Can I just stick the stake straight into the ground, or is there something else I need to do? I just worry about it since it is quite top heavy. I can't imagine that stake holding it unless you have rock hard ground and no wind. I would set it in some concrete to weight the bottom and give it some more depth. But it depends on how hard or soft your ground is.
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Oct 12, 2013 18:46
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Hi! I'm trying to buy a new washer and dryer. My local independently owned appliance store recommended me the Speed Queen brand AWN432 and ADE4BR washer and dryer. Apparently these are the ones designed for the consumer that are similar to the commercial grade ones found in hotels and laundromats. Would you consider these good choices? They are $800 and $750 respectively. And that is pretty much the pricing for a front loading washer and dryer from GE. Yes I know that they are ugly as sin but I want someone that will last me two decades. Nor am I a whore for features. Insane Totoro fucked around with this message at 01:47 on Oct 13, 2013 |
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Oct 12, 2013 19:30
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uwaeve posted:Those hornets that were getting in our bathroom are dying off. We had a pretty warm September and early October I guess. I realized that the vent goes up four inches then runs horizontally out the exterior wall with a little louvered vent. I think I'll just wait another week or so and pop that vent off and put a screen behind it. Hornet or hornetlets or whatever aren't small enough to get through screen, right? I'll probably spray as well, mainly I just don't want to get a facefull of hornets. Are we living in the same house somehow unaware of one another? I don't know if you saw my post about yellow jackets above the bathroom.
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Oct 12, 2013 19:46
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Insane Totoro posted:Hi! I'm trying to buy a new washer and dryer. You'll never find a washer and dryer that will last 20 years without maintenance. The good news is that washers and dryers are extremely easy to fix and that new part will last another 6-12 years. All you need to fix them is a screwdriver and some sockets. Go buy a used washer and dryer that work for $100-$150 each. Even with 20 years of parts, you'll still save a bundle. In fact, you can still get new parts today for 20 year old washers and dryers.
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Oct 12, 2013 19:58
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clayburn posted:My wife bought a birdhouse: Goto hd/lowes outside near chicken wire etc there are metal stakes of various lengths with a spade on the bottom third. Usually green. Imagine an arrow where the arrowhead was a third of the way back.
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Oct 12, 2013 20:26
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kid sinister posted:You'll never find a washer and dryer that will last 20 years without maintenance. The good news is that washers and dryers are extremely easy to fix and that new part will last another 6-12 years. All you need to fix them is a screwdriver and some sockets. Go buy a used washer and dryer that work for $100-$150 each. Even with 20 years of parts, you'll still save a bundle. In fact, you can still get new parts today for 20 year old washers and dryers. At my old house I had a Maytag from the late 60s that I could still get parts for. Wasn't the most efficient beast, but the price was right.
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Oct 12, 2013 20:40
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Okay let's assume that I actually want to purchase a new washer and dryer.... Any recommendations?
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Oct 13, 2013 01:39
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Insane Totoro posted:Okay let's assume that I actually want to purchase a new washer and dryer.... Any recommendations? Couple friends recently bought front-load washer / dryers after doing extensive research. FWIW one bought LG and one bought Samsung.
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Oct 13, 2013 02:01
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I have a Kenmore front-loading washer/drier set that I love, they've been absolutely fantastic. Efficient, effective, very quiet, I like the controls (it's two quick button presses to start a load, or two button presses with a quick twist of the dial between to do something more fancy.) I even like the little chime sound effects, they're fun and not at all annoying. The drier is gas, but there's an electric one available as well. I don't remember which model (I can get it for you if you want), but it was originally supposed to be like $1800 for the set. When we were looking, the Sears rep told us that we should come back the following Monday because there was going to be a 20% off sale. We came back and they said, "No, that model's on clearance now, so it's 10% off." We explained that the guy specifically told us to come back for the 20% on that model, and they ended up giving us BOTH discounts, so we got them for like $1200 or so. Which I guess doesn't really help you, but my point is always ask them about upcoming sales/what's about to go on clearance, that sort of thing.
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Oct 13, 2013 02:07
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kid sinister posted:You'll never find a washer and dryer that will last 20 years without maintenance. The good news is that washers and dryers are extremely easy to fix and that new part will last another 6-12 years. All you need to fix them is a screwdriver and some sockets. Go buy a used washer and dryer that work for $100-$150 each. Even with 20 years of parts, you'll still save a bundle. In fact, you can still get new parts today for 20 year old washers and dryers. Whirlpool's basic washer/dryer models have been basically unchanged for decades. My dad has a set that are probably 20+ years old, and mechanically it is unchanged from the 5 year old model that I have. And yes, they are extremely easy to fix, and there are tons of how to videos for them on YouTube.
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Oct 13, 2013 02:15
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Insane Totoro posted:Okay let's assume that I actually want to purchase a new washer and dryer.... Any recommendations? My mom and dad bought top of the line Samsungs and hooooooly poo poo they are amazing. She raves about them every chance she gets. One cool thing I know they do is if you put something big like a quilt or a sleeping bag in it it automagically spreads it out all over the inside of the drum to evenly dry it.
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Oct 13, 2013 02:59
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Dunno if this is the right thread but... I have these two old keys and the keyring holes on the top are too small for a special ring I want to put them on. Took them to get cut assuming I could get them with a wider hole at the top, but the guy pulled out the exact same sized keys and said there was nothing he could do. Is this true? 
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Oct 13, 2013 03:47
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Know anyone with a drill press or a dremel? It'd be a 1-minute job to open those holes up.
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Oct 13, 2013 03:53
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