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crazyfish posted:I read a forum post somewhere a long time ago where someone experimented with pressurized fermentation, as in they fermented in a corny and periodically let out some of the CO2, leaving a fully carbed beer, sitting in the keg, at the end of primary. Can't remember how well it worked, though. If you don't remember how well it worked because he never posted the final results, it's because he was killed in a kegsplosion.
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Oct 9, 2013 17:13
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So heres what I am thinking (note I do really small mashes typically haha): 2 lb White Wheat 1 lb Rye Malt 4 lb Wheat DME Somewhere around 5% with US-05 Hops would be whatever is in my freezer, so a combination of Centennial (bittering and flameout), Simcoe, Sorachi Ace, others??? (stuff like that in dry hop, I'll pick 2) I really have no idea on the amount of Rye, will that give it a bit of Rye flavor? ChiTownEddie fucked around with this message at 21:30 on Oct 9, 2013 |
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Oct 9, 2013 21:24
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ChiTownEddie posted:I really have no idea on the amount of Rye, will that give it a bit of Rye flavor? I mostly found that rye adds a silky mouthfeel to beer - sort of like oats but more so. On the other hand, if you use too much, it gets oily.
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Oct 9, 2013 21:36
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Jo3sh posted:I mostly found that rye adds a silky mouthfeel to beer - sort of like oats but more so. On the other hand, if you use too much, it gets oily. Interesting, the only other time I've used Rye I got a weird bread-y/spiciness. Well whatevs, I'll just see how this tastes 
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Oct 9, 2013 21:45
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ChiTownEddie posted:Interesting, the only other time I've used Rye I got a weird bread-y/spiciness. Well whatevs, I'll just see how this tastes I think it's a good amount. Maybe a bit on the high side, but I'd stick with it for round numbers. Rye in small amounts (maybe 5%-15% of grist? up to 20%?), to me, is really fruity. sometimes Large amounts have that flavor too, but I find them more likely to be 'spicy.' Then of course, Sour in the Rye, which is like 40%+ iirc, and wonderful.
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Oct 9, 2013 21:51
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One of my favourite beers I've ever done was 60% 2-row, 40% rye, 40 IBU of willamette with lots of mid-late additions, and WY1450 at about 1.050. Very dry, spicy, and floral.
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Oct 9, 2013 21:56
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I made a saison that was 40% rye 60% pilsner and it was amazing. Had a hell of a time trying to get the whole mash to convert though and took a pretty big hit on efficiency. Also helps if you use "spicier" hops to make the rye character pop.
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Oct 9, 2013 21:58
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Ah cool. I'll take a look at what I have and possibly pick up some different hop options then. Thanks guys
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Oct 9, 2013 22:01
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I've started my first brew! My brother has had some experience so he and I worked on the first one. After taking it home, fermentation in the primary went fine. Hung out there for about 5 days then racked it to a clean, glass carboy secondary. I lost about a half-gallon of liquid; when the siphon started going dark I though I was getting into the trub but I guess it was just sediment or something right before it because I ended up pouring out a lot of liquid before getting to the solids. Didn't figure this was a big deal. Shortly after racking, white foam-like beads started forming on the surface of the beer. Some Google-fu told me this was most likely yeast being moved around by CO2. Fine. Here's where the issue begins. At this point fermentation slowed considerably, stopping completely by day 2 or 3 in the secondary. The white beads did not foam any longer. Swirling it produced small amounts of activity in the airlock, but it stopped immediately. The bubbles that formed after swirling are still there after like three days, letting me know there is absolutely no reaction in the secondary any longer. I don't know if it is stalled or done. I would know except that while the kit I got has a hydrometer, it has no thief. Can I assume it's complete and bottle at this point or is there something else I should do first? Also, the airlock that came with my kit is apparently made for primary fermentation only I guess? It's the one that just basically looks like a shot glass, I don't have the S-curved airlock. Does this matter? Thanks to any beer doctors with some advice at this point. Not sure if it matters but it's a winter porter we followed the recipe on, I wanted to make sure I could follow basic instructions and get the process down before getting into any experimentation.
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Oct 9, 2013 22:42
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Paladine_PSoT posted:If you don't remember how well it worked because he never posted the final results, it's because he was killed in a kegsplosion. Next time ferment it in a scuba tank. I just checked and standard ones can hold about three gallons. Holy poo poo now I want to do that.
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Oct 9, 2013 22:51
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Clockwork Beast! posted:I've started my first brew! My brother has had some experience so he and I worked on the first one. After taking it home, fermentation in the primary went fine. Hung out there for about 5 days then racked it to a clean, glass carboy secondary. I lost about a half-gallon of liquid; when the siphon started going dark I though I was getting into the trub but I guess it was just sediment or something right before it because I ended up pouring out a lot of liquid before getting to the solids. Didn't figure this was a big deal. Shortly after racking, white foam-like beads started forming on the surface of the beer. Some Google-fu told me this was most likely yeast being moved around by CO2. Fine. Vigorous primary fermentation should be done by now. You won't see much in the way of airlock activity from now on -- when you're agitating it you're just knocking CO2 out, which is why you get some bubbles. But it sounds like it's going well! I'd hold off bottling until at least a week or two in secondary -- I typically go 1 week primary, 2 weeks secondary, 3 weeks bottles for most beers. Your airlock is fine -- the s-type ones are preferred by some old-school guys, and in theory they're better for long term (read: 6 months or more). They're also a complete pain in the rear end to clean, so I've never even bothered buying one.
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Oct 9, 2013 22:54
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Clockwork Beast! posted:Here's where the issue begins. At this point fermentation slowed considerably, stopping completely by day 2 or 3 in the secondary. Completely normal. All the other stuff you described at this point is just more evidence that it's close to done. Clockwork Beast! posted:I don't know if it is stalled or done. I would know except that while the kit I got has a hydrometer, it has no thief. Can I assume it's complete and bottle at this point or is there something else I should do first? It's probably done, but the only way to know for sure is to pull a gravity sample to see if it's in the ballpark, and then another one in a couple of days to see if it's still dropping. You can go get a thief from a local or Internet shop, or you can find a way to siphon a few ounces into your hydrometer sample jar for the test. When you're one, drink the sample so you can taste it, don't return it to the fermenter. Clockwork Beast! posted:Also, the airlock that came with my kit is apparently made for primary fermentation only I guess? It's the one that just basically looks like a shot glass, I don't have the S-curved airlock. Does this matter? The two types are interchangeable, it makes no difference which you use as long as all the bits are there and they are filled with water, vodka, or sanitizer up to the line.
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Oct 9, 2013 22:56
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Wow, I went from nervous to ok pretty quickly there, cheers guys. The nearest place I can go for goods is Indianapolis and I was planning a trip this weekend anyway for bottles. The prospect of going earlier and driving for close to three hours just for that was not appealing. Now I feel like I can wait. I'm excited to try the finished product, everything's gone pretty well so far.
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Oct 9, 2013 23:36
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The cool thing about brewing is that as long as you have good sanitation practices, it's drat near impossible not to make something that's at least drinkable, if not actively good.
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Oct 10, 2013 00:52
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Jo3sh posted:I mostly found that rye adds a silky mouthfeel to beer - sort of like oats but more so. On the other hand, if you use too much, it gets oily. +1. The oily nature of rye can be a huge asset for IPAs. Coats the tongue in hoppy deliciousness. Rye stouts aren't bad for similar reasons, though I like the sort of "fluffy fullness" that roasted oats give as opposed to an oily slickness.
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Oct 10, 2013 01:01
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I'm brewing in Korea and I started thinking, why don't I see any beers with persimmon or buckwheat? Is there something about them that makes them not ideal for beer?
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Oct 10, 2013 01:24
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Here's a question...I dryhopped my first beer this time, have had the hops in there for the last 7 days. I had them in a muslin bag, and I opened the bucket to take them out today, and there was a film over the top of the beer, and what looked like crystals floating on the top. I suspected mold at first, but it really doesn't look like any mold I've seen. Is any of this normal for dry hopping? Do oils from the hops somehow form a film on the top and crystalize? Or did something unsanitary happen to cause mold to form?
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Oct 10, 2013 01:35
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DontAskKant posted:I'm brewing in Korea and I started thinking, why don't I see any beers with persimmon or buckwheat? Is there something about them that makes them not ideal for beer? Rouge makes a banging buckwheat beer. So it can be done! Persimmon is another story, I had a buddy make some persimmon wine and it was either deeply uninspiring (first go round) or aggressively tannic. Biting into a persimmon, you'd think it'd be awesome, but the end result was just a kind of lovely, uninspired white wine with not great color. THe persimmon didn't really come through. He used American (tomato shaped) persimmons for the first one and a mix of American and Asian (the kind that turn to mush when ripe) the second time around. Not scientific, but not encouraging either.
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Oct 10, 2013 01:43
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I'm looking to make some hard cider but can't seem to find a straight answer about a few things and I was hoping you guys could help me out. 1) I don't want to collect a bunch of champagne-style bottles so I was going to make still cider. In this case, does the bottle matter? Specifically, I was thinking of reusing screwtop wine bottles. Will that provide a good enough seal against oxidation or should I suck it up and cork a regular wine bottle/use my beer bottles? 2) Presuming I use a wine bottle, will it last for a few days after opening? I'm thinking it would be nice to pour a glass or two then pop the bottle back in the fridge, I'd rather not be obligated to down an entire bottle of 12% cider every time I want some. 3) The recipe I was going to use calls for a few months in the bottle for "clarification." Is this purely aesthetic? I know that it's ideal to age it for up to six months to let the flavours develop, but if the haze contributes nothing to the flavour profile of the cider, I don't care what it looks like as long as it's decent. I'm not submitting it for judging, just enjoying it at home. Can I skip this step or is it important to let it clear? DontAskKant posted:I'm brewing in Korea and I started thinking, why don't I see any beers with persimmon or buckwheat? Is there something about them that makes them not ideal for beer? A quick google search came up with a bunch of recipes, so I don't see why not. Poonior Toilett fucked around with this message at 02:41 on Oct 10, 2013 |
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Oct 10, 2013 01:46
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my son bort posted:1) I don't want to collect a bunch of champagne-style bottles so I was going to make still cider. In this case, does the bottle matter? Specifically, I was thinking of reusing screwtop wine bottles. Will that provide a good enough seal against oxygenation or should I suck it up and cork a regular wine bottle/use my beer bottles? 1) You can carb cider in beer bottles without any issues 2) It won't taste horrible if you only wait a few days but due to oxidation and other things the quality will go down quickly (especially if you carbed it) 3) Since cider is almost exclusively simple sugars the yeast shreds through it (all of it) very quickly and can produce a lot of "hot alcohol" and other flavors that need to age out before it's ready to drink. If you keg there are ways to get around this, but if you're going to bottle them then your only recourse is time
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Oct 10, 2013 02:25
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fullroundaction posted:1) You can carb cider in beer bottles without any issues Thanks man, appreciate it. Last one, concerning 1: is a screwtop wine bottle still fine if I don't plan on carbing it?
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Oct 10, 2013 02:41
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my son bort posted:Thanks man, appreciate it. Last one, concerning 1: is a screwtop wine bottle still fine if I don't plan on carbing it? I've never done it but I don't see why not. If I'm not mistaken the Mr Beer kits all come with plastic bottles/screwcaps (not the same thing but close enough?).
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Oct 10, 2013 02:48
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my son bort posted:Thanks man, appreciate it. Last one, concerning 1: is a screwtop wine bottle still fine if I don't plan on carbing it? Foil screw tops can be slightly dodgey since they start as straight cylinders which are made to be pushed down then crimped, so screwing down doesn't always make a fantastic seal before the foil warps. Maybe they make plastic or something with the same threading?
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Oct 10, 2013 02:51
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I made a saison with rye too: 82.1% Pale Malt (8lbs) 10.3% Rye (1lb) 7.7% Vienna Malt (12oz) 0.5oz Sorachi Ace (30 min) 0.5oz Sorachi Ace (15 min) 1.5oz Sorachi Ace (0 min) 1.5oz Sorachi Ace (48 hour dry hop) French Saison Yeast Deeeeelicious. It's got a bit of a grassy grapefruit character. That flavor is dying fast though and it is becoming more of a easy drinking saison with a hint of tang (the flavor not the space drink). I have a question. What makes yeast stop reproducing and start fermenting? If you put one yeast cell in a gallon of wort, why doesn't it turn into a trillion yeast cells? I mean 100 billion yeast cells go into a litre of starter and it becomes 200 billion. What is the limiting factor in their multiplication, because by standard rules of nature I'd think one cell would eat a little sugar, become two cells, etc until they've exponentially multiplied and eaten all the sugar? The question is: why does underpitching just not make enough cells to do the job? The internet would say "It stresses the yeast" but a yeast cell in a bit of wort doesn't know how much wort it is in any more than a tea leaf knows the history of the East India Company.
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Oct 10, 2013 03:29
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Has anyone seen the Wyeast Private Collection yeasts for oct-dec on sale anywhere? After what you guys said about Saison de Noel I think I'll brew it for New Years.
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Oct 10, 2013 03:56
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About persimmons, we have the really soft sweet ones, the hard sweet ones, and the really astringent hard ones that turn sweet and mushy. We also have a dried persimmon like the Japanese do and this is what is used in the persimmon cinnamon and ginger tea that inspired the idea. I have no idea how a sweet persimmon could make anything other than a sweet beer. I was even thinking about using the hard ones that remind me a little of pumpkin. Maybe i should just sick with a winter warmer or pumpkin beer.
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Oct 10, 2013 04:03
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my son bort posted:Thanks man, appreciate it. Last one, concerning 1: is a screwtop wine bottle still fine if I don't plan on carbing it? You're probably not going to get a good seal when reusing the foil screw tops, and they're likely to strip out entirely. I'd recommend corking or just sticking to beer bottles. Although, if you decide to carbonate it, make sure you use champagne style or beer bottles, otherwise you're going to have a lot of broken glass and wasted cider...unless you do use the screw tops and they give out first? Either way, I'd recommend against them! I generally put my ciders into 1 liter swing top bottles if they're going to age a long time, or 12oz beer bottles if I'm going to pasteurize them. Prefect Six posted:Has anyone seen the Wyeast Private Collection yeasts for oct-dec on sale anywhere? After what you guys said about Saison de Noel I think I'll brew it for New Years. My not-quite-local shop has some, and I'm planning on getting some of the 1768pc for a brown ale and an ESB next week.
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Oct 10, 2013 04:05
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DontAskKant posted:I have no idea how a sweet persimmon could make anything other than a sweet beer. The sugar ferments off. A lot of fruit, like apples and strawberries, have pretty delicate flavors that seem to go away pretty easily when fermented.
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Oct 10, 2013 04:07
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CapnBry posted:I have a question. What makes yeast stop reproducing and start fermenting? If you put one yeast cell in a gallon of wort, why doesn't it turn into a trillion yeast cells? I mean 100 billion yeast cells go into a litre of starter and it becomes 200 billion. What is the limiting factor in their multiplication, because by standard rules of nature I'd think one cell would eat a little sugar, become two cells, etc until they've exponentially multiplied and eaten all the sugar? I'm going to take a stab at answering this question even though I'm grossly underqualified to. Yeast don't reproduce very quickly (~every 100 minutes) and their lifecycle isn't "wake up, reproduce, repeat until I die". A lot of conditions need to be met before they will continue to reproduce, such as oxygen (in relatively large amounts), food, nutrients, pH, etc. That, and they will only continue to make more of themselves for a limited number of generations before going to sleep or exploding, whichever makes more sense at the time. I like to think of it as someone inviting their friends over to try and float a full keg but everyone passing out and puking all over the lawn halfway through.
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Oct 10, 2013 04:23
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fullroundaction posted:I like to think of it as someone inviting their friends over to try and float a full keg but everyone passing out and puking all over the lawn halfway through.
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Oct 10, 2013 14:01
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onezero posted:Here's a question...I dryhopped my first beer this time, have had the hops in there for the last 7 days. I had them in a muslin bag, and I opened the bucket to take them out today, and there was a film over the top of the beer, and what looked like crystals floating on the top. I suspected mold at first, but it really doesn't look like any mold I've seen. Is any of this normal for dry hopping? Do oils from the hops somehow form a film on the top and crystalize? Or did something unsanitary happen to cause mold to form? It's probably fine. How does it smell? Have you taken a gravity sample and tasted it? Also, pics. It's probably yeast doing yeasty things.
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Oct 10, 2013 15:01
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Yesterday a Pepsi truck pulled up outside my house and a gentleman from my housemates softball team unloaded these on our driveway. 
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Oct 10, 2013 15:14
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Prefect Six posted:Has anyone seen the Wyeast Private Collection yeasts for oct-dec on sale anywhere? After what you guys said about Saison de Noel I think I'll brew it for New Years. Rebel Brewer has them in stock if you want to pay through the rear end for shipping, or live in TN. I got all three. Daedalus Esquire posted:Yesterday a Pepsi truck pulled up outside my house and a gentleman from my housemates softball team unloaded these on our driveway. what how how do I do this
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Oct 10, 2013 17:51
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more falafel please posted:Rebel Brewer has them in stock if you want to pay through the rear end for shipping, or live in TN. I got all three. Sounds like the guy on the Softball team works for Pepsi? DontAskKant posted:About persimmons, we have the really soft sweet ones, the hard sweet ones, and the really astringent hard ones that turn sweet and mushy. We also have a dried persimmon like the Japanese do and this is what is used in the persimmon cinnamon and ginger tea that inspired the idea. I have no idea how a sweet persimmon could make anything other than a sweet beer. I was even thinking about using the hard ones that remind me a little of pumpkin. Maybe i should just sick with a winter warmer or pumpkin beer. Sugary-sweetness along doesn't dictate how it will ferment out in beer. Plain old sugar is very sweet too, but its pretty much the driest thing ever in beer. Angry Grimace fucked around with this message at 18:15 on Oct 10, 2013 |
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Oct 10, 2013 18:11
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Jeeeeez. I brewed a 5gallon batch last sunday (9-29), it was 3lb of Wheat DME and 3lb of plain light and I pitched the WLP644 Brett Trois ...it still has a bit of krausen and still bubbles about once a minute. It was kept at like 77° for the first 5 days then whatever room temp is after that. I've never seen a 1.05X beer ferment for nearly two straight weeks.
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Oct 10, 2013 18:27
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Angry Grimace posted:Sounds like the guy on the Softball team works for Pepsi? That's the secret. Pepsi doesn't need them and there is no deposit, so most of them just sit around at a distribution center. Also, they don't have deposits so they don't really track them anymore either.
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Oct 10, 2013 18:48
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ChiTownEddie posted:Jeeeeez. I brewed a 5gallon batch last sunday (9-29), it was 3lb of Wheat DME and 3lb of plain light and I pitched the WLP644 Brett Trois Sounds like you've never used WY3944 (Belgian Witbier).
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Oct 10, 2013 18:53
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1.) Are Northern Brewer coupon codes available for sharing or are they account linked? 2.) If I can share the code, anyone looking to place an order in the next 48 hours and want 15% off code? PM me!
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Oct 10, 2013 18:54
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Jo3sh posted:The sugar ferments off. A lot of fruit, like apples and strawberries, have pretty delicate flavors that seem to go away pretty easily when fermented. Yup, Speaking of. I just bottled a beautiful Red Currant strawberry hydromel where the currant was fermented and the strawberry was entirely for backsweetening. It came out amazing. BIG strawberry flavor. --- I also have an update for my Lambic meads : Both of the gallons got racked. One gallon got a good 2-2.5 pounds of strawberries. The other one got light bourbon soaked oak chips. The strawberry one has been giving me issues. The yeast / bugs / whatever got really excited about the strawberries and i got Strawberry Lambic mead all over the closet. I had napkins down which was good. Who ever moves into my apartment next should have no trouble making anything with house yeast which is probably well cultured in my kitchen as well as my bedroom closet. The oak chips gallon has full pellicle coverage, bubbles film and all (pictures coming soon)...It's pretty exciting that this project is nearing the half-way point. I have plans to bottle the oaked gallon at my wedding. From there (if it tastes good) I will begin a third gallon "G3" and bottle the strawberry one at 1.5 years (Starting "G4" at that point) so I have a 6 month rotation of finished Lambic Meads. I'll ride this generation of yeast/ bugs for at least a few cycles and monitor the changes. --- Also have an update on my three honey traditional: It's very close to 4 months old at this point. Hasn't really cleared yet, and based on the honey being as raw as it was, it may need some help later down the road if it doesn't clear. (Lots of wax, especially in the clover and Orange Blossom). Also going to be adding some french oak (med toast). --- Oh Yeah and, I'm Back! I actually never went anywhere, but I haven't posted
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Oct 10, 2013 19:03
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Virigoth posted:1.) Are Northern Brewer coupon codes available for sharing or are they account linked? Dang, should of read this 20 minutes ago!
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Oct 10, 2013 21:27
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