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pageerror404 posted:You really don't need ventilation with acrylics. They are non toxic so you could swallow a pot and be okay. I'm all about safety but I think some people are a bit paranoid. If you're spraying future though protect your self, that poo poo will coat your lungs like it coats a floor. Wear something for oils too why not. But for acrylics, what ever man.
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Oct 11, 2013 17:08
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Baronjutter posted:I'm all about safety but I think some people are a bit paranoid. If you're spraying future though protect your self, that poo poo will coat your lungs like it coats a floor. Wear something for oils too why not. But for acrylics, what ever man. I did a lot of fume hood work in college and for a few years afterwards in my first job I worked with some really raunchy stuff so I may go a little overboard on airborne chemical safety. I'm not going to change anytime soon, but you don't have to follow my advice either! 
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Oct 11, 2013 17:12
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Midjack posted:I did a lot of fume hood work in college and for a few years afterwards in my first job I worked with some really raunchy stuff so I may go a little overboard on airborne chemical safety. I'm not going to change anytime soon, but you don't have to follow my advice either! I had a friend who was doing bio-chem and would constantly text me asking me to look up the effects of exposure to various horrible chemical fumes then text back "ok I'm probably fine then". He was also super into warhammer and painting and would spraypaint and do all sorts of poo poo in small unventilated rooms. He even tried to set up a COLOUR dark-room in a tiny unventilated closet. Some people could stand to be a little MORE paranoid about fumes. \/ Future smells fantastic but WILL gently caress your lungs up big time so be very careful spraying it for sure. Baronjutter fucked around with this message at 17:26 on Oct 11, 2013 |
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Oct 11, 2013 17:21
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Might want to ventilate a little with the future. You generally have to spray more liberally than you do with paint. I love the way it smells though lol.
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Oct 11, 2013 17:23
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Dragon T-34 model 1940. The box calls it "T-34/76 Mod. 1940", which is wrong on several extremely minor and spergy levels. One thing was pretty surprising: the suspension. I've never seen this kind of detail before. Shame no other interior details are included, so the spring wells are all alone inside the tank.  Not that you can see them all that well though the driver's hatch, anyway. But come on, not even a chair to put a driver's figure in!  Details inside the turret fare a bit better, as they can actually be seen from the outside.  Turret removed to show off what's in it. Gun is modeled exceptionally well. Commander and loader seats are included. There is nothing else, like shells, machine gun ammo disks, etc.  Overall view, with some crewmen (not included).  It's a pretty great kit. Some spare parts are included, but nothing fancy (a handful of track links, 4 later model gas tanks without the circular caps, some miscellaneous bits and pieces). The tracks are all individual links, which is a bit of a pain, but they go together well, and you get more flexibility this way. The decals are two sets of digits 0-9. The manual gives two painting options: Eastern Front 1941 (a weird off-olive green) and 1st Moscow Rifles Division, July 1941 (large gray, yellow, and brown spots, not even remotely regulation camouflage).
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Oct 13, 2013 04:56
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I like your russian tank green a lot more than mine? How are you painting that?
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Oct 13, 2013 05:27
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http://www.homedepot.com/p/3M-Tekk-Protection-Household-Multi-Purpose-Respirator-65021HA1-C/202080143#.UlogLBDQung I usually use this respirator when spraying with lacquers. Pricy but well worth it since it filters out organic paint vapors and such.
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Oct 13, 2013 05:38
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Morgenthau posted:http://www.homedepot.com/p/3M-Tekk-Protection-Household-Multi-Purpose-Respirator-65021HA1-C/202080143#.UlogLBDQung Naturally... Lacquers are toxic as hell.
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Oct 13, 2013 07:14
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Ensign Expendable posted:Dragon T-34 model 1940. The box calls it "T-34/76 Mod. 1940", which is wrong on several extremely minor and spergy levels. Yeah dragon kits are lacking in interior details which is weird because they don't also sell interiors as add on kits which would make them more money. On mine I'll leave the commander hatch open only and then cram a figurine half in/half out to hide the lack of details inside.
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Oct 13, 2013 07:52
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Raskolnikov38 posted:Yeah dragon kits are lacking in interior details which is weird because they don't also sell interiors as add on kits which would make them more money. On mine I'll leave the commander hatch open only and then cram a figurine half in/half out to hide the lack of details inside. I was going to do that with the driver, but the driver I had in mind wouldn't fit in the hatch  Jonny Nox posted:I like your russian tank green a lot more than mine? How are you painting that? Mixed Tamiya Olive Drab and Flat Brown. There may have been some Dark Yellow involved. I'm very happy with the colour too, it looks much better than my previous attempts.
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Oct 13, 2013 17:21
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Ensign Expendable posted:Mixed Tamiya Olive Drab and Flat Brown. There may have been some Dark Yellow involved. I'm very happy with the colour too, it looks much better than my previous attempts. Splendid, here's MY Dragon T-34/76 mod. 1941 Flash is overdoing the weathering. I had already put down the green. 
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Oct 14, 2013 07:01
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This guy http://www.vettius64.com really makes some next level poo poo     
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Oct 17, 2013 14:01
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For our anniversary, my wife got me one of those Testors baby's first airbrush kits that's powered by the can of compressed air? I think it'll be cool to practice on before I get something upgraded. How thin should I be making the paint?
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Oct 17, 2013 14:20
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Shoot for around the consistency of milk. With Tamiya paints, it's usually a 2:1 thinner to paint ration, but obviously that may differ for other manufacturers.
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Oct 17, 2013 15:25
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Molentik posted:This guy http://www.vettius64.com really makes some next level poo poo That website is loving nuts.
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Oct 17, 2013 15:50
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That bicycle diorama is beyond words.
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Oct 17, 2013 16:00
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Here is another cool website, http://www.vonabt.co.uk/gallery.htm. They have made HUGE 1/6th scale dioramas. Among the crazy stuff they have made are a Maus, an armoured train and this baby, a Dora railgun; These guys have way too much time and money on their hands..
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Oct 17, 2013 16:45
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Molentik posted:Here is another cool website, http://www.vonabt.co.uk/gallery.htm. They have made HUGE 1/6th scale dioramas. Among the crazy stuff they have made are a Maus, an armoured train and this baby, a Dora railgun; I love that a 1/6th scale model would be, if engineered to be operable, a significant piece of artillery in its own right.
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Oct 17, 2013 17:41
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Yeah, it's still a 130mm gun 
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Oct 17, 2013 17:52
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Question, what's the most recommended 1/72 or 1/48 A-10 Thunderbolt II kit to get? Been thinking of getting it after I get the Hasegawa MV-22b Osprey so I was wondering which kit is the go to one.
Cooked Auto fucked around with this message at 14:26 on Oct 19, 2013 |
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Oct 19, 2013 14:16
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Hobby Boss if you want something to go together fairly well, but it is very, very expensive. The Monogram (boxed now as Revell I think) A-10 has the best shape but represents a 1980s bird and the fit is terrible in some areas, but should be sub-$20 anywhere. And it has (gasp) raised panel lines. There's also Italeri but it's priced pretty close to the HB kit and isn't as good for detail. All 1/48.
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Oct 20, 2013 17:35
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compressioncut posted:Hobby Boss if you want something to go together fairly well, but it is very, very expensive. The Monogram (boxed now as Revell I think) A-10 has the best shape but represents a 1980s bird and the fit is terrible in some areas, but should be sub-$20 anywhere. And it has (gasp) raised panel lines. There's also Italeri but it's priced pretty close to the HB kit and isn't as good for detail. What limited info I could find from googling pointed me pretty much in the same direction. Any idea of 1/72 scale kits? What about the Tamiya 1/48 A-10 by the way? Cooked Auto fucked around with this message at 20:54 on Oct 20, 2013 |
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Oct 20, 2013 20:11
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The 1/72 Academy and 1/72 Italeri/Tamiya (same kit) A-10 are pretty nice kits with good detail and engraved panel lining. The one on the Academy kit is finer while the Italeri/Tamiya one is a bit deep. The Academy one builds up to a modern A-10 while the italeri/tamiya one is more representative of a 80's cold war machine. And yes, they come with assloads of weaponry  The Tamiya 1/48 A-10 as far as I know is quite ok with awesome as gently caress box art and details but it's raised panel lines. Never ever get the Hobby Boss 1/72 kits, those are barebones as gently caress.
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Oct 21, 2013 06:55
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Trumpeter 1/32 A-10 Actually don't, it's a decent kit but if you are  about accuracy you won't like it. Not one of Trumpeter's best kit. There's also a regularly-rebranded Revell/Monogram kit from the 80s. Skip that one.
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Oct 21, 2013 08:17
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What about the 1/72 Hasegawa A-10? (And which one for that part since it seems to be two or three different kits available.) Otherwise I might just go for either the 1/48 Hobby boss or the 1/72 Academy one since I do kinda want it to be the more modern version. Now I just need to figure out how to wire something up so I can make it play the cannon noise whenever I want to. Or I just have to satisfy myself with having that noise on my cellphone and play it from there. Cooked Auto fucked around with this message at 17:41 on Oct 21, 2013 |
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Oct 21, 2013 17:36
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This thread is amazing! Just getting back into building after years away from the hobby. SA really has everything you need.
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Oct 22, 2013 01:26
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Dantu posted:This thread is amazing! Just getting back into building after years away from the hobby. SA really has everything you need. Definitely! I much prefer asking questions here than in other places. I do mostly wargaming but pop in here time to time because I want to get back into scale modeling eventually. I do have a question though, for the car modelers: I know someone recently posted how they got a nice gloss finish using acrylics, but do most car modelers use Tamiya paints pretty much? And those are enamels, right? What sort of thinner is it, does anyone know specifically - maybe cellulose thinner? And for military models the main thing to use is Vallejo Model Air and Model Colour, right?
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Oct 22, 2013 09:46
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krushgroove posted:I do have a question though, for the car modelers: I know someone recently posted how they got a nice gloss finish using acrylics, but do most car modelers use Tamiya paints pretty much? And those are enamels, right? What sort of thinner is it, does anyone know specifically - maybe cellulose thinner? Tamiya makes both acrylics and enamels. I've only ever used their acrylics and they are quite good. I have a few car models waiting to be built, but I'm waiting till I know how to get a decent gloss finish. From my (pretty limited) understanding, most brands of paints are all good, the key is to not mix them with other brands, use the same brand of thinner as the paint you are using etc. I just chose Tamiya since they seemed to be readily available in Australia compared to everything else.
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Oct 22, 2013 09:53
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Okay. Due to the tiny loving size, I broke one of the struts off of the NCC-1701 with my giant gorilla hands. To repair it, should I use the Tamiya plastic putty to set it, and then get in there with an emery board to clean it up?
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Oct 22, 2013 15:18
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Bruiser posted:Okay. Due to the tiny loving size, I broke one of the struts off of the NCC-1701 with my giant gorilla hands. To repair it, should I use the Tamiya plastic putty to set it, and then get in there with an emery board to clean it up? Yes. If it fails, embrace a "battle damage!" look.
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Oct 22, 2013 16:12
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Is anyone aware of a decent DC-10-30 kit out there in 1/32 or 1/48? The only results I seem to get are 1/100 and 1/320 wood and resin models for airline pilots' "Me" shelves. I have a hankering to do one from my old airline. Openable cowlings would be a bonus.
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Oct 25, 2013 19:48
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Spitfire prototype K5054. Converted from the Tamiya Mk 1, 1/48th. New prop, canopy, wing scribing, rudder shape, tail skid and exhausts (though the exhausts still look a bit poo poo.)   Prototype with a Seafire FR47, the last variant made. Can't help thinking the design team had a "more prop blade = go faster" thing going on.  Bonus catte.  edit: MrYenko posted:Is anyone aware of a decent DC-10-30 kit out there in 1/32 or 1/48? The only results I seem to get are 1/100 and 1/320 wood and resin models for airline pilots' "Me" shelves. No one makes airliners in those scales, they'd be pretty big. 1/144th is the usual. Biggest I can find is a weird mixed-media 1/72, here: http://www.aim72.co.uk/page13.html - and that's going to have a wingspan of nearly two and a half feet, if I've worked it out right. Unkempt fucked around with this message at 23:35 on Oct 25, 2013 |
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Oct 25, 2013 23:10
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Unkempt posted:No one makes airliners in those scales, they'd be pretty big. 1/144th is the usual. Biggest I can find is a weird mixed-media 1/72, here: http://www.aim72.co.uk/page13.html It's true. 1/72 is well into the many hundreds of dollars range, as well - a 1/32 you could probably get inside. He 219:   Small fishing weights went in the nose, larger ones a bit further back left the kit just balanced enough to sit correctly. I also have some steel shot for slingshots that I think will make good ballast in the future.  In the end, I just free-handed the spots with my airbrush. I also used the very light blue to pull back/touch up any spots that grew too big.  The canopy got a bit fogged - I was super-gluing some weights in the nose, and accidentally left the canopy on. The fumes did the fogging. Oh well, lesson learned. And it's no great loss - the interior had zero detail and was not done properly (erm, by the maker.)  Drilled four little holes for the four underslung 20mm cannons...  And two more for the vertical 30mm cannons. The radio detection loop is a bent steel wire, and the radio cable is fishing line. 
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Oct 26, 2013 01:14
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Nice warbirds, folks. I have a weak spot for Spitfires, they are an attractive airplane.
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Oct 26, 2013 17:02
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This might be my memory failing, but was there a goon-made app (for iOS or Android) that let you look up and convert paint codes for all manufacturers?
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Oct 26, 2013 23:24
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Granite Octopus posted:This might be my memory failing, but was there a goon-made app (for iOS or Android) that let you look up and convert paint codes for all manufacturers? I think this is the one you mean: https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.OrbSoftware.HobbyHelper At least, that's the one I have installed.
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Oct 27, 2013 01:25
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93% alcohol is your friend, although make sure you are friends in a well-ventilated room and in small doses at a time. I spent most of my evening soaking the shells of old HO-scale toy train equipment to strip the factory paint off of them, so I can rebuild them into something closer to authentic. Even if you gently caress something up for one of your models, some soaking time in 93% alcohol will get rid of the paint, and basically give you a do-over.
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Oct 27, 2013 06:12
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I made a present for a friend's birthday. 'murica!
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Oct 28, 2013 23:29
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Hey guys, This is my 1/72 Sopwith Camel I'm finishing up. One of the final steps here is to put up the rigging on the airframe. The first choices that come to my mind is fishing line or thread. I'm only hesitant to use either because thread seems to messy and fishing line might be a tad to thick for a smaller scale of 1/72. Does anyone have a better suggestion to use for rigging? 
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Oct 31, 2013 17:40
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Hi-Liter posted:Hey guys, This is my 1/72 Sopwith Camel I'm finishing up. One of the final steps here is to put up the rigging on the airframe. The first choices that come to my mind is fishing line or thread. I'm only hesitant to use either because thread seems to messy and fishing line might be a tad to thick for a smaller scale of 1/72. Does anyone have a better suggestion to use for rigging? Even the lightest monofilament I can find would probably be about double or slightly more than double the scale thickness of flying wires. Your model sure is purty, though.
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Oct 31, 2013 18:44
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