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Eptar posted:Hey guitar goons, I just bought a used guitar (ibanez rg120) with the intent of learning to play, and I'm trying to figure out if it's feasible to play directly through my computer speakers (adam a7x monitors) rather than buying an amp. I can plug the guitar into the m-audio fast-track pro, which my speakers are connected to, and I can hear the guitar just fine. But when I tried to use a standalone guitar amp simulator program (overloud TH2)so play around with some effects, I could always hear the unfiltered "normal" guitar sound simultaneously with the modified/distorted sound. It's entirely likely that I'm missing something really simple here but I can't figure out what it is. So, do any of you guys play through a setup similar to this/ know how to properly configure it, and are there any better amplifier simulator type programs you would recommend? How's yr Mix knob? All the way over? http://avid.force.com/pkb/articles/en_US/FAQ/en400281
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Oct 15, 2013 01:02
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Kilometers Davis posted:You're wonderful, did you know that? I had a quick look through those links and I think most of them are more beautiful than what I could get from Gibson. Could you go into detail about the quality control and smaller details of Tokai instruments? I'm mostly curious if they cut any corners that will end with me dealing with things like sticky pots, iffy electronics, cheap hardware, you know. I'm very interested in purchasing one but there's no chance of trying one in person so I have to be sure about everything. No corners cut as far as I can tell. I'll post pics of the guts in this post as I don't know a thing about electronics to say either way. The pickups in mine their MK II P90s and everything I've read is that those are great pups, just now their Gibson clones. Most of those I linked have their MKII P90s or Humbuckers, save the one with Seymour Duncan and Switchcraft stuff specifically. The only blemish on mine is that at the very tip top of the headstock, inside the "dip" that is the center of the open book headstock, the binding is not quite lined up perfect. That's all I've managed to come across. That and the poly finish, which is a preference and not a major issue more or less. I like how nitro ages, but who doesn't. No sticky pots, no electronic problems, hardware is great. Mine even has felt pads under the strap buttons. No fret nibs, but that could be because it's a mid tier model but also because it's a fairly faithful replica of the original 1954 Les Paul. No staple pickup, but oh well. I plan to eventually install a Thorn staple P90 at some point. From what I understand, all of the Japanese copies come with either long neck tenons, either set deep or "medium" into the body. I haven't pulled the pups to verify but the info I got came from a MLP forum member who seems to know his game. LS/LC Models are CIJ, ALS models are MIC. This is mine.  Next to the now gone Gibson.  Again, mine is a custom shop and is in between the regular BB replica they have and their high end model. Mine has a great ebony fretboard. You can't even get ebony on Gibson's now. Mine is also all mahogany, whereas the normal run has a maple cap. CisSTAR 19 posted:Where is a good place to get those? Are the pickups and hardware of good quality or do most people swap those out at the quickest opportunity? See this post There are Chinese models that are probably made in the same factory as Agile/Epiphone/Etc. The Japanese models have always been great IMO. Most if not all CIJ will have brand name hardware, but even then, they'd make for great modding platforms. The store linked in that post is where I grabbed mine. These are the guts of my Tokai  These are the guts of my former Gibson  If someone who knows a thing about electronics could comment I'd appreciate it. ed I am unaffiliated with the MyLesPaul forum and it's sellers there, but in the Other Les Paul board there is a Japanese trading thread where folks with good and verifiable reputation will often sell CIJ Tokai/Greco/Burny/Bacchus/Orville/etc guitars of quality. Nice guys to deal with. From what I've gathered, the creme of the crop tends to be late 70s/early 80s Tokai and Greco, late 90s Orville by Gibson, and anything put out by Navigator (which is ESP). Edwards is apparently an all MIC brand, but they have a great reputation and are also part of the ESP family. Zuhzuhzombie!! fucked around with this message at 01:53 on Oct 15, 2013 |
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Oct 15, 2013 01:48
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Heads up to anyone interested: I'm told that the Seymour Duncan Lava Box has been marked down to $20 in store only at GC. I haven't confirmed this myself, but if you're interested it's worth calling one near you to find out.
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Oct 15, 2013 01:57
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baka kaba posted:How's yr Mix knob? All the way over? You know I think that was the problem (I was under the impression the mix knob adjusted the mix in headphones vs speakers, which would be pretty unnecessary now that I think about it), however in tinkering with everything I've somehow managed to make overloud stop talking to any output devices so yay for that. edit: and with a power on/off of the fasttrack unit now everything is working as it should woo! Still some latency issues but it seems this may be due to using on board sound rather than a designated soundcard? I'll have to investigate this further. Another question just relating to my guitar: when I play the top (thickest) string open and not plugged into anything, it produces a nasty metal vibrating sound. I suspect it is actually vibrating on the fret closest to the headstock, as it sounds like an extended version of the vibrating sound when you play a note and then slide your finger to the next fret over (that brief buzzing noise). Does the nut need to be replaced so that the string will sit higher off the fret? Eptar fucked around with this message at 02:24 on Oct 15, 2013 |
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Oct 15, 2013 02:06
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Hey everybody, as long as I can remember I've wanted to play Spanish guitar-style music. Right now my life seems to be opening up in terms of time, and I thought I would finally take the plunge. I've read the OP, and now I am curious if any of you have specific suggestions that will help me towards my goal. If it isn't painfully obvious I know jack poo poo about music, haven't formally touched an instrument since the clarinet I avoided practicing in 4th grade. Also I live next door to a major state university, but they don't seem to offer anything remotely approaching Spanish guitar. Obviously I need to pick up the basics for now, but down the road I would love some instruction in that area. Any ideas?
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Oct 15, 2013 02:27
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Eptar posted:You know I think that was the problem (I was under the impression the mix knob adjusted the mix in headphones vs speakers, which would be pretty unnecessary now that I think about it), however in tinkering with everything I've somehow managed to make overloud stop talking to any output devices so yay for that. Depends on how bad the buzz is. There's fret buzz and then there's the tiny bit of buzzing you get with low action.
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Oct 15, 2013 02:32
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Zuhzuhzombie!! posted:Depends on how bad the buzz is. There's fret buzz and then there's the tiny bit of buzzing you get with low action. I think the general guideline for how much buzz is too much is "If you can't hear it through the amp, ignore it." If it only buzzes when you drop tune, consider using thicker strings.
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Oct 15, 2013 02:45
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Zuhzuhzombie!! posted:Edwards is apparently an all MIC brand, but they have a great reputation and are also part of the ESP family. Edwards is a weird one. Supposedly, all the wood work and painting is performed in China then electronics and final assembly are performed in Japan. Or so say the Japanese sources I've read at least. As we don't have the ESP LTD brand in Japan, they instead have 'Grass Roots', 'Edwards', 'ESP' and 'Navigator'. (In order of ascending quality) Edwards seem good at least in that they generally come with Duncans as stock. Edit: Forgot Navigators. RillAkBea fucked around with this message at 03:31 on Oct 15, 2013 |
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Oct 15, 2013 03:27
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And there's like 3 varieties of ESP too, with kind of confusing nomenclature between them. In any case, Japan gets all the coolest ESP poo poo.
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Oct 15, 2013 03:46
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Dirt posted:Pickups are an easy swap. Get one that you think looks cool, as they are all pretty much the same other than that. Output being the primary difference, clarity being the other but no, I don't get into all the bullshit mojo around pickup winders either. It's just absolutely wrong to say there's not a big difference in pickups. I just swapped out the Burstbuckers in my LP to some Seymour Duncan Alnico IIs and the difference is AMAZING. Dirt posted:Sidenote: I really wish they would reissue the Buckethead Les Paul. I hate my self for not buying one when they were available.
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Oct 15, 2013 03:55
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Zuhzuhzombie!! posted:There are Chinese models that are probably made in the same factory as Agile/Epiphone/Etc. The Japanese models have always been great IMO. Most if not all CIJ will have brand name hardware, but even then, they'd make for great modding platforms. Minor nitpick but Agiles are made in Korea and Epiphones are made in a Chinese factory Gibson owns for that sole purpose.
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Oct 15, 2013 03:59
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Thanks for the correction! Navigators are fan-loving-tastic guitars.
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Oct 15, 2013 04:29
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iostream.h posted:Well, no, not even. I meant pick the Les Paul you think looks cool, not the pickups, as those are easily changed, ha. Should of been more clear there.
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Oct 15, 2013 04:42
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Apparently ESP makes Italia? I'd be more into them if they'd drop the big rear end ugly decals they have all over the guitars. Love the one that looks like an old Goya/Hagstrom.
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Oct 15, 2013 04:56
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They don't make them, they're just the importer for the guitars in Japan.
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Oct 15, 2013 05:07
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muike posted:And there's like 3 varieties of ESP too, with kind of confusing nomenclature between them. In any case, Japan gets all the coolest ESP poo poo. We also get the best Fujigen stuff. None of that slightly different shape nonsense, bizarro land Japanese copyright laws allow them to produce exact copies. Including the Fender designs that they actually produce for Fender 
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Oct 15, 2013 05:12
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Fujigen is perhaps the greatest place on Earth second only to the ESP custom shop.
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Oct 15, 2013 05:13
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Eptar posted:You know I think that was the problem (I was under the impression the mix knob adjusted the mix in headphones vs speakers, which would be pretty unnecessary now that I think about it), however in tinkering with everything I've somehow managed to make overloud stop talking to any output devices so yay for that. You're right, it's vibrating on a fret. You don't need to get a new nut (that is a solution, but not the only one nor necessarily the best one), you can put a shim of index card paper underneath the string to fix it temporarily (or permanently if that's your deal, I did that for one guitar and it worked just fine). It sounds like your guitar is not set up. Setting up your guitar means to adjust the truss rod so that the tension on the neck is appropriate for the gauge of strings you are using, thus raising them the appropriate level off the fretboard, as well adjusting your bridge saddles to make the strings the proper length from bridge to tuning peg, thus setting the intonation (how in tune the strings are in relationship to each other) across the entire fretboard. Okay... I've begun so here we go: In order to give a rudimentary truss rod adjustment, first located where the truss rod is on your guitar. It is most likely located on the headstock, underneath a plastic swivel cover, or in a small circular opening you will find there. You will need a 1/4" allen wrench to operate the truss rod adjustment mechanism. Now you need to eyeball the bow of the neck. This means if the neck is bowing down, or bowing up. Hopefully you understand what this means, the shape of the wood. You must hold the guitar perfectly straight, at eye level and view from the bottom (bridge) to the top (headstock) and carefully examine how it is bowed. Note that bowing is not a bad thing, some people prefer a bow one way or the other, but the goal right now to get it close to straight, with perhaps a slight U bow. Tightening the truss rod (clockwise turns make it tighter) will cause more tension in the neck, thus lowering the amount of U bow in a neck. Tighten in one fourth turns, not applying "a lot" of force, or until the truss rod begins to be difficult to turn further. View your neck again in between adjustments and see if the buzz goes away. Loosening the truss rod will cause the U bow to be more pronounced. This may cause the buzzing to be worse, but your neck may also have a ∩ bow, and thus loosening is what you need to do; you have to eyeball it and figure this out for yourself, but generally the U bow is more pronounced (the neck has gone more loose over time with the truss rod, so the U bow becomes more pronounced). Now it's time to set the intonation. First learn about artificial harmonics. You will need to learn how to perform this technique on the guitar before doing this process. (Look up lessons on YouTube if you don't know artificial harmonics). You will need a digital tuner, or using the plug in in TH2 to do tuning (I actually don't like that one very much, it's not accurate enough for this -- try to find a better one if you can, but the idea is the same you can tune plugged in through your computer). You want to match the artificial harmonic of each string at the 12th fret to each open string. These notes are called octaves. Again, you will be using a screwdriver to operate the bridge saddles that the strings go into at the bridge. You will shorten the length of the string if it is too low at the octave (clockwise turns), and lengthen the length of the string if it is too high at the octave (counterclockwise turns). Again, go with 1/4 turns. Tune all strings in between each strings adjustment. You may want to go through the process twice. It takes a long time. Match the octave to the open string, not the other way around -- open strings are much more commonly used in playing! Welcome to the world of guitar troubleshooting. I hope you are sufficiently confused. I suggest trying to learn about all of this, on YouTube and online, and trying to give your guitar a rudimentary set up yourself. I would venture to say you can make it sound better (more in tune) and reduce or eliminate the buzzing without getting a new nut. As for the lag, try using the appropriate ASIO driver for your unit. It's most probably a driver issue, although if you are sure you are using the proper drivers, try running your computer in high performance mode.
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Oct 15, 2013 05:55
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Does anyone know of good (preferably affordable, but hey) shops to get fretwork done in the Greater Boston Area? I just bought a Japanese Strat on eBay that might need anywhere from a dress to the first 2-5 frets replaced. I've been out of the guitar world for a while; I know that Mouradian is really respected out here, but if anyone has other favorites, I'd love to hear about them. I'm open to shipping this guitar out for work, too, but I'd prefer to avoid that if I can help it.
Insanite fucked around with this message at 13:35 on Oct 15, 2013 |
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Oct 15, 2013 13:30
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coolbian57 posted:You're right, it's vibrating on a fret. You don't need to get a new nut (that is a solution, but not the only one nor necessarily the best one), you can put a shim of index card paper underneath the string to fix it temporarily (or permanently if that's your deal, I did that for one guitar and it worked just fine). http://www.ibanez.co.jp/world/manual/guitars/Ibanez_EG_EB_2000.pdf
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Oct 16, 2013 14:19
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Alternatively if you're lazy like me, you can just take it to your local instrument shop and ask them to set it up for you. It's not expensive, probably done better than you can do it, and will usually be finished the same day unless it's crazy busy.
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Oct 16, 2013 14:42
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A shrubbery! posted:Alternatively if you're lazy like me, you can just take it to your local instrument shop and ask them to set it up for you. It's not expensive, probably done better than you can do it, That's certainly an opinion.
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Oct 16, 2013 14:44
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comes along bort posted:That's certainly an opinion. If you're just learning you're probably going to gently caress up a bunch and if you're lazy you're never going to learn how to do it right. Therefore,
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Oct 16, 2013 14:59
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Get your first setup done professionally, that way you know how it's supposed to work out. After that do it yourself.
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Oct 16, 2013 15:18
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I'd agree with considering a pro setup if you can afford it. They have lots of shiny tools that you don't. 
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Oct 16, 2013 15:55
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The problem with messing with truss rods, in general, is that if you don't have a lot of experience with how they can feel, you can mistake a stuck rod for 'normal' and snap it. Also the tendency is for novices to turn the rod far, far too much- it's just intuitive since you're sitting there with a screwdriver and a very large screw.
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Oct 16, 2013 16:21
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RillAkBea posted:I'd agree with considering a pro setup if you can afford it. They have lots of shiny tools that you don't. Zonekeeper posted:I think the general guideline for how much buzz is too much is "If you can't hear it through the amp, ignore it." If it only buzzes when you drop tune, consider using thicker strings.
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Oct 16, 2013 16:33
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Just make sure you have one of these pocket rulers. They're invaluable. Doing your own setup really IS simple, once you know what you're shooting for. Get a pro setup first, get it home, take measurements of everything that's affected by a setup. Compare the settings you have to whatever guide you're using, that way you know what you're trying to achieve later on.
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Oct 16, 2013 17:19
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I finally tried those Jazz III picks today. I can definitely see why people like these so much. The control feels so direct compared to thinner picks and the attack is just unbelievably tight. A reputation well deserved. (Tried an XL too but that just felt all kinds of wrong.  )
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Oct 16, 2013 17:29
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RillAkBea posted:I finally tried those Jazz III picks today. I can definitely see why people like these so much. The control feels so direct compared to thinner picks and the attack is just unbelievably tight. A reputation well deserved. It really is like playing with a scalpel.
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Oct 16, 2013 17:34
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RillAkBea posted:I finally tried those Jazz III picks today. I can definitely see why people like these so much. The control feels so direct compared to thinner picks and the attack is just unbelievably tight. A reputation well deserved. Carbon fiber max grip jazz iii picks. 
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Oct 16, 2013 17:52
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duckfarts posted:Carbon fiber max grip jazz iii picks. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=22-HSjMS3Ks
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Oct 16, 2013 18:06
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Anyone here play a Ric?
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Oct 16, 2013 21:26
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I've played one before (both a 330 and one of those American Walnut things they made for a few years). They're kind of weird.
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Oct 16, 2013 22:45
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Really want a 660, but don't want to drop that kind of money on something that is, like you said, "really weird". There's a 360 at the local GC that I like. Plays well, looks great, sounds great. I like the neck but it has the tiniest toothpick sized frets.
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Oct 16, 2013 23:00
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Neck is pretty thin, frets are tiny. Of course It's The Only Thing That Sounds Like A Ric so ymmv on that, Then again most of the qualities people associate with Rickenbackers are actually from engineers cranking the gently caress out of tube compressors which are probably cheaper than buying a Ric.
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Oct 16, 2013 23:04
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They're expensive guitars, new, and they're odd animals. Some people love them, some people (myself included) don't really know what to think about them. Are you sure you want a Ric? For that money you could get a nice Gretsch 6128T! And then you'd have filtertrons, and filtertrons rule.
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Oct 16, 2013 23:08
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I love ric basses but the guitars aren't really worth the price in my opinion. Also I have giant hands and anything that doesn't mimic the shape and feel of an old 335's neck isn't something I could ever get used to.
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Oct 16, 2013 23:28
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The only Ric I would ever own if I had the cash would be a 12 string. Virtually all the other 12 string electrics I've ever seen just look kinda "off" to me.
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Oct 17, 2013 00:03
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jwh posted:
Had a Duo Jet once and it had some quality issues. I will one day own a White Penguin, though. Just not any time soon. Only problem with Gretsch is the unpinned bridge.
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Oct 17, 2013 02:56
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