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Sockington posted:Seafoam it, that'll show where exhaust leaks are I looked at doing exhaust leak tests with smoke (not seafoam), but meh. I figure its probably the up pipe that needs to be replaced anyway.
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Oct 10, 2013 20:00
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Usually you'll get a pretty good ticking at idle that will get better as the car warms up, and you might also be able to see/feel the leaks. Stock headers/uppipe?
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Oct 10, 2013 20:03
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jamal posted:Usually you'll get a pretty good ticking at idle that will get better as the car warms up, and you might also be able to see/feel the leaks. Stock headers/uppipe? As opposed to the other 800 ticking noises my car makes? Stock headers and up pipe yes. It's a 2003. The up pipe is going soon I promise!
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Oct 10, 2013 20:04
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Hey everyone, I'm pretty new to Subarus (and cars in general). The clutch on my '01 Blitzen is starting to slip and I'm looking at kits to replace it. Will this one fit the car? I'd feel a lot better if someone that knows way more than I do could confirm it for me.
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Oct 11, 2013 01:40
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I found an uppipe leak using seafoam, actually. Pretty sure I need to tighten the lower joint some more even though I torqued it to spec. Unfortunately the heat shield already rusted itself back in place, and I don't have oxyacetylene available like last time.
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Oct 11, 2013 02:26
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I'll just wait until I do the up pipe and hope I don't die 
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Oct 11, 2013 03:51
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So I guess in the EJ25 Subarus they put the PCV valve on a little pedestal which is pressed into the block. I can't get the PCV valve free, the little pedestal is just spinning in place whenever I try to turn the PCV. From the sound of it the pedestal isn't threaded (thank gently caress) so now I just need to figure out a way to get something on the wrench flats of the pedestal to hold it in place so I can really crank on the PCV valve. All my vise grips are too big and so is my 22mm crescent wrench. I of course have no crowsfoot wrench that size either.  What a silly design. I guess Subaru must have gotten tired of people stripping the PCV threads on the EJ22. Seat Safety Switch fucked around with this message at 02:14 on Oct 16, 2013 |
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Oct 16, 2013 02:11
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Seat Safety Switch posted:So I guess in the EJ25 Subarus they put the PCV valve on a little pedestal which is pressed into the block. I can't get the PCV valve free, the little pedestal is just spinning in place whenever I try to turn the PCV. Mine is just threaded, but it's a 99 so 
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Oct 16, 2013 02:15
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Got my 30,000 mile maintenance done today. After an employee discount, it came to $340. In less depressing news, I installed Rally Armor mudflaps on my car so I can be like everyone else. I'm glad I sprung for the urethane ones, because I know the hard plastic ones would break in a second on these horrible roads.
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Oct 16, 2013 02:44
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goatse guy posted:Got my 30,000 mile maintenance done today. After an employee discount, it came to $340. The hard plastic ones aren't that bad. I have them on my GC and they make good curb feelers.
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Oct 16, 2013 02:50
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Cross post from my thread. 03 EJ251 motor makes a knocking sound only at idle. Trying to figure out if my timing pullies are bad or if I've nuked a crank bearing, bent a rocker arm, or oil pump is dying. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9mVlYBdSLWM
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Oct 16, 2013 16:53
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Neptr posted:The hard plastic ones aren't that bad. I have them on my GC and they make good curb feelers. I don't have to parallel park ever, so curb feelers are not an issue. My city has slanted parking spots on almost every street downtown!
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Oct 16, 2013 17:39
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Had an adventure this weekend doing some maintenance. I was doing a wheel bearing, but when I got under the car I had a torn inner CV boot. I figured it would be a win to get that done as well, so I picked up a new axle at O'Reilly. Unfortunately, we managed to damage the seal trying to get the axle in to the transmission. Turns out that neither O'Reilly or Autozone carry the right goddamn seal. Got it handled eventually (had a buddy at a shop order the part on Monday), but it was kind of annoying running around town trying to find a bit of rubber the right shape on Sunday. TL;DR O'Reilly carries an axle that will fit a Legacy GT, but they don't carry the axle seal (which is easy to damage if you aren't careful). The part their system says is the correct seal won't fit.
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Oct 16, 2013 19:56
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I have a stock 2013 STI with 6k miles on it, mostly freeway. Recently I've been smelling a pretty bad burning smell (like burning rubber or brakes) when sitting at idle. I smell it the worst after stopping at the light after getting off the freeway on my drive home. My commute is roughly 35 miles both way. It can't smell anything around the brakes and I can't smell anything after popping the hood. The smell only permeates the cabin it seems like. It may be unrelated but I also occasionally hear a squealing noise when I ease the clutch out while in reverse. This only seems to happen when the car is warmed up. I'd say these problems started at around 5k miles. The smell has gotten a little worse as well over the past couple days. Anyone have ideas on what it could be?
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Oct 17, 2013 07:06
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pctD posted:I have a stock 2013 STI with 6k miles on it, mostly freeway. Could be a belt that loosened up. Is the noise affected more when you turn the steering wheel at rest or when you turn the AC on or off? Take a look for a shiny looking belt (on the pulley side of the belt) with the engine off.
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Oct 17, 2013 08:08
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Yea the noise is definitely louder when the steering wheel is turned. Come to think of it when I back out straight I don't hear it, only when I turn the wheel. How do I know if the belt is loose by looking at it? Should I just take it in? (I'm assuming this would be covered under warranty).
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Oct 17, 2013 09:32
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pctD posted:Yea the noise is definitely louder when the steering wheel is turned. Come to think of it when I back out straight I don't hear it, only when I turn the wheel. How do I know if the belt is loose by looking at it? Should I just take it in? (I'm assuming this would be covered under warranty). You can press on it when the motor is off to check for excess movement, or look to see if it's shiny like I mentioned (shiny being an indicator of it's slippage and subsequent polishing of itself against the metal power steering pump pulley). If you're uncomfortable tightening the belt though you might as well bring it in. It's the kind if thing that should be very quick to fix (a while-you-wait sort of thing). E: it's worth checking the level of the power steering fluid actually before you do anything at all. There's a reservoir, you undo the cap and there's a dipstick built into the cap. I can't imagine that at 6k it would be low on fluid for some reason but yes that would be a warranty thing. VelociBacon fucked around with this message at 10:11 on Oct 17, 2013 |
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Oct 17, 2013 10:09
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When my downpipe was installed a turbo stud broke  . I still need the up pipe as mentioned before. My tuner said that it's easy to pull the turbo when the up pipe needs to go in anyway and is going to do the up pipe install while the turbo is at the CNC shop around the corner. They're also doing it without removing the headers. Is this even possible?
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Oct 17, 2013 11:18
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Yakattak posted:When my downpipe was installed a turbo stud broke Yes and Yes.
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Oct 17, 2013 13:37
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My little neon srt was totaled last month after smacking a deer with it. I've been shopping around for an outback/impreza wagon (used/older), but I haven't had a ton of luck so far. I just saw this pop up on cl http://tinyurl.com/keyllmy Any thoughts on the price if it drives as nice as it looks in the craigslist pictures? I feel like its a little high for the northwest? Anything specific I should look at for that model/year combo (other than head gaskets)?
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Oct 18, 2013 01:30
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Early 2.5s have some freaky one-off things (sensor interchange, etc) but head gaskets are the biggest problem. Price seems a little high for the mileage but Wyoming is kind of snow-belty and winter is incoming so I can see that being a realistic price. Timing belt's a plus. Curious why they replaced the thermostat. Check out the rear fenders for rust. Overall, It's a pretty car. At this price I think you might be able to afford to be choosy. Get it inspected with a compression test done.
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Oct 18, 2013 01:38
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I accidentally found the YouTube channel of my car's previous owner and I wish I wouldn't have.
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Oct 18, 2013 01:41
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Fifty Three posted:I accidentally found the YouTube channel of my car's previous owner and I wish I wouldn't have. Give a link or be banned, I think. Seat Safety Switch posted:Early 2.5s have some freaky one-off things (sensor interchange, etc) but head gaskets are the biggest problem. Price seems a little high for the mileage but Wyoming is kind of snow-belty and winter is incoming so I can see that being a realistic price. If you get the head gasket taken care of (or know for a fact it was taken care of) with the "upgraded" bonded headgasket (any replacement headgasket nowadays), then the engines can run for quite awhile. Besides timing belts, my 2.5 (1997 Outback Legacy) has over 400,000 miles on it and hasn't really been opened since the headgasket replacement at around 120k. Looks like dogshit, though.
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Oct 18, 2013 01:50
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Geirskogul posted:Give a link or be banned, I think.  Here's the video I recognized my car in. At least it shows the ridiculousness of that stupid Gymkhana. Don't go to his channel if you value your sanity. My poor WRX. 
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Oct 18, 2013 01:57
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quote:The head gaskets were also replaced, but recently the valve cover gaskets and slave cylinder leaks were repaired. Yes I have receipts all repairs done to the car since purchased. Just got a response to my email. Sounds like its been maintained nicely. Thanks for the info everyone.
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Oct 18, 2013 02:38
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Canna Happy posted:My little neon srt was totaled last month after smacking a deer with it. I've been shopping around for an outback/impreza wagon (used/older), but I haven't had a ton of luck so far. I just saw this pop up on cl http://tinyurl.com/keyllmy I'm curious why you'd be transitioning from a reasonably fast sporty turbo compact to a very slow and sedate wagon.
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Oct 18, 2013 15:36
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Fifty Three posted:That isn't a rule. Since when is "gymkhana exhaust" even a loving thing? 
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Oct 18, 2013 15:54
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burtonos posted:Since when is "gymkhana exhaust" even a loving thing? I sense a moneymaking opportunity to resell Ebay headers...
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Oct 18, 2013 16:05
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Amandyke posted:I'm curious why you'd be transitioning from a reasonably fast sporty turbo compact to a very slow and sedate wagon. I had the srt nine years and its just time for a change. I'm currently on a long furlough and I'm just living off savings and traveling. Don't get me wrong I like power, I just don't want to deal with the extra costs associated with it right now when 99.9% of the time I'm just a to b driving. Aka I'm an old man now.
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Oct 18, 2013 16:11
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burtonos posted:Since when is "gymkhana exhaust" even a loving thing? Some people are even paying a premium for those original Crawford ones. In unrelated news, my built motor is finally in and I'm almost done break in. Looking forward to cranking up the boost and seeing what this thing can do.
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Oct 18, 2013 16:43
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burtonos posted:Since when is "gymkhana exhaust" even a loving thing? 
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Oct 18, 2013 17:53
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Fifty Three posted:Since Crawford built Ken Block's '06 STI and it ended up on the Gymkhana 1 video. If NASIOC didn't require posts before listing in their Classifieds I'd already be cashing in on it. Just post "wow! Clean car" "That's gonna be sick" "haters gon hate lol" in a bunch of people's build threads until you have enough posts. I think that's all people do on that site anyways.
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Oct 18, 2013 18:32
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Neptr posted:Just post "wow! Clean car" "That's gonna be sick" "haters gon hate lol" in a bunch of people's build threads until you have enough posts. I think that's all people do on that site anyways. haha I've done basically that for any site that had a postcount barrier to entry to even browse the classifieds. Really good admin strategy for guaranteeing a forum full of poo poo posts, that.
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Oct 18, 2013 21:09
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I was chasing down the exhaust rattles that popped up after changing my uppipe and clutch, so I took off the heat shield under the uppipe that I had to cut because of the O2 sensor. I drove around the block after and it's the sole culprit of all the noise. Can I leave it off?
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Oct 20, 2013 17:39
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It's generally recommended to have some form of heat shielding, running around without might work for a little while but might cause issues with whatever is in the surrounding area if it gets way too hot. Plus you might spool a little later because you're losing energy in the form of heat before the turbo, but it might be negligible. Exhaust wrap isn't too expensive and you can easily do it yourself. You'd have heat shielding and no rattles. If you go that route I would recommend the newer titanium wraps, much nicer to work with.
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Oct 20, 2013 19:51
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Any idea what wheel this is? 15" and 5x100 is all I know.
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Oct 21, 2013 03:56
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Are there no cast markings at all on the other side?
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Oct 21, 2013 14:39
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I'm going to be buying winter tires for my STI's first winter. I'm in SE WI and have a company car with lovely AS tires for my non-severe weather DD. I'm set on getting a studless snow/ice tire, and I'm down to the X-ice Xi3 vs. the Blizzak WS70. Has anyone had a chance to compare these two tires? Tirerack's comparion seems to show that both tires are nearly equal for snow/ice handling, but the X-ice handles much better in dry conditions. The general consensus seems to be that blizzaks wear out much quicker, though. Is that a fair assessment? If so, I'll pay the premium for the X-ices. Bonus Picture: 
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Oct 21, 2013 16:45
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Well, just to throw you completely off, I'll chime in and say I like the Continental ExtremeWinterContacts better than the WS70s. I get a much better feeling in the dry and slushy conditions. Both are really good though. I've never had the Michelins, too $$$ for my wallet.
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Oct 21, 2013 16:48
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si posted:Well, just to throw you completely off, I'll chime in and say I like the Continental ExtremeWinterContacts better than the WS70s. I get a much better feeling in the dry and slushy conditions. Both are really good though. I've never had the Michelins, too $$$ for my wallet. Continentals don't come in 245/40r18. I'm sticking winter tires on the stock wheels then buying a nice set of summer wheels come spring. I know narrower 17x8 wheels will be better for winter, but even the cheapest 17" wheel/tire combo is more expensive than the X-Ice tires alone in OEM size.
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Oct 21, 2013 17:28
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