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Just spent 6x  on a roll of film for a camera format I don't even own Film eh
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Oct 12, 2013 17:24
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Quantum of Phallus posted:Just spent 6x
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Oct 12, 2013 21:04
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Ha sorry, I'm going to borrow a friend's MF camera and shoot this during the summer, I've been trying for years to get a roll of IR.
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Oct 12, 2013 22:09
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gently caress youuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuu
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Oct 12, 2013 23:59
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pootiebigwang posted:I have no idea if this is the thread for this or not. I got this great book on photography at the Bauhaus, and I want to start getting into doing some photomontages using film and darkroom techniques but I can't wrap my head around it, specifically the work of Herbert Bayer. Bayer and other elaborate darkroom workers like him would work with with a combination of cutting and rearranging negatives and using multiple enlargers. Once you're using more than one enlarger that opens up your possibilities a lot
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Oct 13, 2013 00:22
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Genderfluid posted:Bayer and other elaborate darkroom workers like him would work with with a combination of cutting and rearranging negatives and using multiple enlargers. Once you're using more than one enlarger that opens up your possibilities a lot Maybe I should look into those methods. At the moment I have 3 enlarged and people seem to keep throwing them at me.
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Oct 13, 2013 01:22
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Quantum of Phallus posted:Ha sorry, I'm going to borrow a friend's MF camera and shoot this during the summer, I've been trying for years to get a roll of IR. Just make sure you've got an orange/red filter and you process ASAP once you've shot it. Are you planing on E6 or cross processing the film?
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Oct 13, 2013 07:47
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Oh E6 for sure. Gonna mix it up with the filters, wanna try to get some purple shots and some red shots.
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Oct 13, 2013 10:39
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 Pink Pond by mr_student, on Flickr That was the best image I got out of the roll I shot, and that was cross-processed and shot with an orange filter (I couldn't get a hold of a red one).
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Oct 13, 2013 12:08
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 $0.50 at the same Salvation Army where I got my Infinity Stylus Epic for $2.50. I love that place.
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Oct 14, 2013 02:57
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atomicthumbs posted:$0.50 at the same Salvation Army where I got my Infinity Stylus Epic for $2.50. I love that place. I think I've had better luck with Salvation Army, I think with Goodwill if they see anything that looks "expensive" they stick it up on their auction website.
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Oct 14, 2013 03:25
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Where's Reichstag? I finally scanned my test roll from the Nikonos I picked up from him.      Pretty cool camera, and know that I finally know I loaded and unloaded it correctly, I'm gonna use it a lot more. 
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Oct 18, 2013 03:13
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I'm glad you're actually putting it in harm's way, using it as a rainy day camera was killing me.
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Oct 18, 2013 04:46
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Casu Marzu posted:Where's Reichstag? Where is this? Looks like Canadian Shield topology, maybe Algonquian, Quetico Park or BWCA? The Nikonos is a serious business canoe camera.
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Oct 18, 2013 06:00
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Paul MaudDib posted:Where is this? Looks like Canadian Shield topology, maybe Algonquian, Quetico Park or BWCA? Dells of the Wisconsin River. It's a 5ish mile sandstone gorge in central Wisconsin. Edit: I just realized the first and last photos are the same, but I mirrored it properly and uploaded it again. Oops.
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Oct 18, 2013 16:58
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Oct 18, 2013 21:07
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Damnnn they're sweet.
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Oct 18, 2013 22:53
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All of them are very nice, but I wanted to ask about these two - do you often get / solicit reactions like this when out shooting in the street?
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Oct 19, 2013 01:36
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Incredible. Did you use Portra for the color shots?
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Oct 19, 2013 01:38
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ExecuDork posted:All of them are very nice, but I wanted to ask about these two - do you often get / solicit reactions like this when out shooting in the street? The second picture he is not looking at me, but at a table with diners at it. Or maybe he is looking at the server who is in the foreground out of focus. But he did not see me. In the first, it was kind of weird. I approached a van with two workers and took a picture. They caught me taking the picture and asked me what the hell I was doing. I explained, and the big guy (pictured) gave me the finger. It was a half joking / half serious gesture, but he actually held it there for a second so that I could get focus. Otherwise, no, I don't usually get reactions like that at all. In the past I used to ask people for permission and then they would pose, and in this recent series I disappeared into the crowd and most of the time no one realized I was taking pictures. ZippySLC posted:Incredible. Did you use Portra for the color shots? Ektar 100 for the medium format, and I think Fuji Pro 400H for the 35mm. I would have to go back and look at my notes. Mannequin fucked around with this message at 03:26 on Oct 19, 2013 |
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Oct 19, 2013 03:16
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I've gotten my pentax k1000 on thursday off an old guy on ebay. Made all the rookie mistakes on my first roll. My roll came out okay, but I have no way to scan my photos yet. And I've exhausted my fixer I believe. I got weird brownish streaks all over my negatives. I also noticed some mold(?) spiraling in small spots on the lens. Not enough to effect the quality of the shot, of course I can't tell with my fixer situation anyway. I still want to pick up a 1.4 lens if it pops up on ebay again.
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Oct 19, 2013 04:20
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It sounds like you're dealing with "Bromide Drag" which has nothing to do with the fix (that stuff should take AGES to exhaust) and everything to do with not enough agitation during the development stage of the process. How much/often were you agitating/inverting during development? Also, I'm pretty sure it's impossible to get this problem with Rodinal/R09/Adonal. (I think).
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Oct 19, 2013 06:46
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Spedman posted:It sounds like you're dealing with "Bromide Drag" which has nothing to do with the fix (that stuff should take AGES to exhaust) and everything to do with not enough agitation during the development stage of the process. How much/often were you agitating/inverting during development? I have 6 sheets of HP5+ that prove you can get bromide drag with rodinal. I did the same 1+100 stand that works for me with Foma, 1 minute initial and then one hour untouched.
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Oct 19, 2013 06:50
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8th-snype posted:I have 6 sheets of HP5+ that prove you can get bromide drag with rodinal. I did the same 1+100 stand that works for me with Foma, 1 minute initial and then one hour untouched. It must of been some myth I read on APUG one time then, but I must admit to never have seeing it myself with Rodinal (I never shoot Ilford though).
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Oct 19, 2013 06:57
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Spedman posted:It must of been some myth I read on APUG one time then, but I must admit to never have seeing it myself with Rodinal (I never shoot Ilford though). I had read that too but then it happened to me. This is my first Rodinal/HP5 rodeo, next time I'm gonna just do a few agitations at the 30min mark and see what happens.
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Oct 19, 2013 07:10
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I've never had bromide drag, but i've had stress marks from overwinding a bunch of times which a lot of people seem to think is bromide drag.
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Oct 19, 2013 07:50
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Mr. Despair posted:I've never had bromide drag, but i've had stress marks from overwinding a bunch of times which a lot of people seem to think is bromide drag. I like to think of stress marks as gently caress You! marks, from what I've seen of bromide drags they seem more "consistent" and fluid like rather than bend or pinch marks.
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Oct 19, 2013 07:59
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Spedman posted:It sounds like you're dealing with "Bromide Drag" which has nothing to do with the fix (that stuff should take AGES to exhaust) Could be, i agitated in the beginning at 5 secs every 30 seconds, the switched for 10 seconds every minute, but what i think killed me is the kinds of agitation i did. I'm using d-76 1:1 for my films since it's what's recommended for my class and as far as i know it's the extent of the local expertise. Of course no one would talk to me about push processing which i should've taken as "dont worry about this now" instead of "i dunno, lol". I was told fixer may start to wear out around midterm, and that's a week away. I had to use the dry packets of kodak chemicals to make our solutions, so there may be a shelf life to consider, and i've developed 11 rolls with the same fixer.
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Oct 19, 2013 08:25
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Spedman posted:I like to think of stress marks as gently caress You! marks, from what I've seen of bromide drags they seem more "consistent" and fluid like rather than bend or pinch marks. Also they tend to accumulate in areas with high contrast borders. If you have large,smooth edged, uniform light streaks extending from a street light (in my case) into an area with less exposure that's drag.
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Oct 19, 2013 09:14
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Yeah, drag will be a solid stripe coming down from the sprocket holes, stress marks will show up as a pair of lines coming out from the corners of the sprocket.
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Oct 19, 2013 14:19
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Mr. Despair posted:A yashica-mat is almost certainly better and cheaper than any 35mm camera with a wlf. 120's a bitch to get onto the reels, though. It likes to wrinkle. 35mm is stiffer crossways, and much easier to work with. But yeah, if you have 35mm developing kit you can get 120 inserts to use the same cans. Just be careful rolling it. Anybody ever tried the old newspaper trick of heating the developer to push ISO and/or shorten dev time? It gets a bit grainy, but it's kinda fun. We were talking about the old film days last night at the newspaper; one of the guys told us how he used to have a coffee-mug heater plugged into the cigarette lighter of his pickup to heat the chemistry, and after the last football game of the night he'd process the film on the way back to the office, and just hold the daylight tank out the window and pour it out when changing steps of the process. Very environmentally friendly. His Ford Ranger had a big brown streak down the side from the developer. I'm a bit younger; I've handed still-dripping half-washed negatives to the layout guys, but they tossed them on a flatbed scanner. The college newsroom had a scanner set aside for near-deadline stuff, it was rather crusty.
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Oct 19, 2013 17:11
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Bad Angus! Bad!
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Mr. Despair posted:Yeah, drag will be a solid stripe coming down from the sprocket holes If it's coming though the socket holes isn't that surge marks from overly vigorous agitation? Drag should be a mark from a highlight into shadow areas (moving down, relative to how the film was oriented in the tank).
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Oct 19, 2013 20:03
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This was my drunken attempt at some skate photography for the first time, in the middle of the night, on some Tri-X pushed to 3200.  Untitled by Dev Luns, on Flickr  Untitled by Dev Luns, on Flickr  Untitled by Dev Luns, on Flickr  Untitled by Dev Luns, on Flickr  Untitled by Dev Luns, on Flickr pootiebigwang fucked around with this message at 03:25 on Oct 20, 2013 |
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Oct 20, 2013 03:23
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pootiebigwang posted:This was my drunken attempt at some skate photography for the first time, in the middle of the night, on some Tri-X pushed to 3200. Those are rad as hell.
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Oct 20, 2013 04:43
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I accidentally shot some Tri-X 400 at 100. Massive Dev chart gives me anywhere from 4:45-6:45 for ISO 200 (HC-110, Dilution B), or 7:30 for ISO 400. Normally I use Dilution H (half of Dilution B), but it only gives me 9:00 for ISO 400, no push/pull times. How long do you recommend I leave it in for Dilution H? I was thinking probably 6-7 minutes and just deal with any overexposure. I don't think what's on there is super important to me... actually don't even know what the hell is on the roll it's been sitting in my fridge so long (all I wrote on it was that I hosed up and exposed it at 100).
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Oct 20, 2013 06:06
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pootiebigwang posted:This was my drunken attempt at some skate photography for the first time, in the middle of the night, on some Tri-X pushed to 3200. This is my favorite one. It has a nice level of abstraction, but you can still figure out whats going on. Love the lighting on the skater. By the way, I'm assuming those are medium format - I am shooting some high speed BW MF right now as well. And if you want a film that can peer into those darker shadow areas I'd heartily recommend Ilford's Delta 3200. It is a good bit flatter and grainier in it's image rendition but you get comparatively lots of shadow detail. Edit: Quoted the wrong image first. Derp. VomitOnLino fucked around with this message at 07:09 on Oct 20, 2013 |
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Oct 20, 2013 06:08
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Pompous Rhombus posted:I accidentally shot some Tri-X 400 at 100. Massive Dev chart gives me anywhere from 4:45-6:45 for ISO 200 (HC-110, Dilution B), or 7:30 for ISO 400. Normally I use Dilution H (half of Dilution B), but it only gives me 9:00 for ISO 400, no push/pull times. How long do you recommend I leave it in for Dilution H? I was thinking probably 6-7 minutes and just deal with any overexposure. I don't think what's on there is super important to me... actually don't even know what the hell is on the roll it's been sitting in my fridge so long (all I wrote on it was that I hosed up and exposed it at 100). If I were in your shoes I'd try to at least pull it down a stop. So yeah about 7 minutes at dilution H would be my guess, too. I try to avoid overly dense negs, But that's mainly because my medium format scanner hates, hates, hates dense BW negs. (dense color negs are fine) I guess it has trouble separating the tones because they are heavily compressed, think ye-olde HDR style. My worst offender roll (thermometer was way off - developer way too hot) was also shot on a rainy day making matters worse and even with lots os PS only like half the images were salvageable.
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Oct 20, 2013 06:16
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VomitOnLino posted:If I were in your shoes I'd try to at least pull it down a stop. So yeah about 7 minutes at dilution H would be my guess, too. I've had trouble scanning really thick negatives as well, but I'm surprised how much the scanner can get out of really thin ones. I think the opposite is true when doing wet printing, but I'm probably just not experienced enough to work with a thin negative properly.
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Oct 20, 2013 06:20
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Chill Callahan posted:Those are rad as hell. Agreed. I miss pushing the hell out of Tri-X. You get a similar look cranking up all the sliders in RAW, but it's just not the same. VomitOnLino posted:And if you want a film that can peer into those darker shadow areas I'd heartily recommend Ilford's Delta 3200. I forget the specifics, but if you really want to play with that high-contrast look and/or need negatives ASAP (i.e., throw it in the enlarger wet and clean the fixer off the lens later), an old newspaper trick is to use Dektol on film. Only takes a minute, and the push is determined by how hot you get it. Chillbro Baggins fucked around with this message at 06:47 on Oct 20, 2013 |
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Oct 20, 2013 06:43
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pootiebigwang posted:This was my drunken attempt at some skate photography for the first time, in the middle of the night, on some Tri-X pushed to 3200. These aren't grainy enough. You did something wrong 
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Oct 20, 2013 10:37
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