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I finished rebuilding my front drive shaft on Saturday. The spicer u-joints have the tightest tolerances EVER! I didn't realize that the 3 sets of retainer clips they give you are all VERY slightly different thicknesses. I hammered the poo poo out of one cap trying to get the clip in with no luck, then I switched clips and it fit no problem. You can barely tell the difference just holding them up next to each other. The centering ball assembly was what I thought I'd have a hard time with but it was a piece of cake!
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Oct 7, 2013 17:09
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Wait, they do? I've only ever seen 5-153x ujoints (standard 1310 size for almost every jeep driveshaft ever) come with 4 clips in a baggie, they include 4 because some vehicles require all 4 caps to be clipped in place, for instance the front ujoint on the rear driveshaft of a ford explorer or jeep cherokee.
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Oct 7, 2013 18:28
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kastein posted:Wait, they do? The ujoints came with three sets of 4 clips, each set was a different color. Each bag also said something like "clips for 1310 u joint," "clips for 1310x u joint," etc. I might be wrong about it, but I couldn't fit 4 of the standard clips in 
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Oct 7, 2013 18:35
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That's weird as hell. Never seen that. Good to know, thanks.
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Oct 7, 2013 21:54
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Anyone in here an AW4 expert? About 155K on mine and it's been great up until tonight when it felt like the torque converter would just let go completely. Fluid was a little low so I added some, but it's tough to tell where the level is after you've added some since the dip tube is completely covered in Dex-Merc. No burning smell or major heat coming off anything...just some light, inconsistent rattling. And some weird noise now and then that sounds like an old suspension cycling when I take off sometimes. Managed to dog it home by shutting the engine off for a few minutes at a time, then it would re-engage and get me another mile or so. Probably taking it to the trans shop down the road tomorrow, just curious as to what my worst-case scenario is here.
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Oct 8, 2013 11:04
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Philip J Fry posted:Anyone in here an AW4 expert? About 155K on mine and it's been great up until tonight when it felt like the torque converter would just let go completely. Fluid was a little low so I added some, but it's tough to tell where the level is after you've added some since the dip tube is completely covered in Dex-Merc. No burning smell or major heat coming off anything...just some light, inconsistent rattling. And some weird noise now and then that sounds like an old suspension cycling when I take off sometimes. Throttle valve cable or solenoid maybe?
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Oct 9, 2013 15:49
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Put a junkyard tranny in it and ignore it for another 100k miles. Try and localize the noise, if that is coming from the bellhousing area, your torque converter is probably losing impeller blades or something. I suspect that's what happened to the one in my old 96 right before I junked it. Or rather, parked it at Rausch Creek during a NAXJA run, tore everything I wanted off it, released the hounds, then signed the title and gave it to the park as a wiring harness donor for a project they wanted to do. Then they tried to sell me the drag link off it (literally off my own jeep that I gave them for free) for $30 the next year when I bent mine on my MJ, which gave me some serious sour grapes, but that's a completely different story.
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Oct 9, 2013 16:18
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So I took my '92 in to get an alignment and they pointed out that my control arms need new bushing and to be replaced, and I need a new steering damper. After some looking around online it looks like the bushing can be done with an air hammer for removal and a ball bearing press for insertion. Any done done this job before, or at least can tell me if I'm getting in over my head here? I'd like to stop my car from shaking harder than Miley Cyrus's rear end, but if it can be done for less than $400 that'd be nice.
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Oct 10, 2013 03:17
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ExplodingSims posted:So I took my '92 in to get an alignment and they pointed out that my control arms need new bushing and to be replaced, and I need a new steering damper. Why not just buy after market control arms and save a ton of hassle?
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Oct 10, 2013 08:58
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Audiologic posted:Why not just buy after market control arms and save a ton of hassle? Because I'm dumb and didn't realize they came pre-inserted. 
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Oct 10, 2013 16:44
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I've never had to take parts to a machine shop. I have bad grinding in the rear end end of the WJ and it looks as though at least one axle seal is blown. I am fairly certain I can do all the wrenchwork - now for the shop part I just bring them the half axles, new bearing and wheel seal and they can press off/on?
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Oct 10, 2013 16:45
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kastein posted:Put a junkyard tranny in it and ignore it for another 100k miles. After some reading, could it be something as simple as the flex plate bolts coming loose (and/or maybe a cracked flex plate at the worst?) The noise is actually not all that horrendous and it did seem like I was hitting a few more RPM's than normal the past couple of weeks when getting on the freeway and going from 3rd to 4th. I'm guessing that's when it started coming loose and now there's a few bolts that have backed out a little bit, letting the whole flex plate move. Would also somewhat explain why it takes off fine after shutting the engine off for a moment. Gonna pop off the inspection plate this weekend and see what's up. I know gently caress all about slushboxes, but it seems like a fairly common problem and worth the 1/2 hour of trouble if that's all it is (assuming the flex plate is okay, otherwise it's off to the shop as I don't have the work space or time to dick around with that.) e: Sounds almost exactly like this, though not quite as loud. The 0:32+ part and without all the engine revving, anyway. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oyeUovTVU6g Philip J Fry fucked around with this message at 18:58 on Oct 10, 2013 |
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Oct 10, 2013 18:53
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That won't cause higher RPMs (unless it comes completely disconnected in which case you won't go anywhere) and won't be affected by shutting it off and turning it back on, but it sure will make a racket, happened to me in my 91 MJ about 6 months after I got it. It got so bad it sounded like incredibly bad rod knock.
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Oct 10, 2013 18:58
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Finally got around to finishing my floor pan, Well, almost finishing at least! Just need to weld along the unibody rails underneath and she's done! I'm pretty proud since I'm an idiot with zero experience doing this poo poo.
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Oct 11, 2013 03:54
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Audiologic posted:Finally got around to finishing my floor pan, Well, almost finishing at least! Just need to weld along the unibody rails underneath and she's done! looks great, man.
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Oct 13, 2013 18:36
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So many people doing floor repairs lately. I'm afraid of pulling my carpet back and having to spend money I just don't have right now..
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Oct 13, 2013 20:15
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Has anybody put a front or rear bumper on that has required chopping the frame length and a crossmember? Any regrets? The JK frame seems to extend quite a lot beyond what's really needed, and cutting isn't the hardest thing to do, but it doesn't seem like you can really undo that very easily.
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Oct 13, 2013 20:30
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Veeb0rg posted:So many people doing floor repairs lately. I'm afraid of pulling my carpet back and having to spend money I just don't have right now.. This is what kept me from doing it, but when I finally bucked up and did it, it literally cost me about 60 dollars, and I still have a 3x3 sheet of metal leftover, so I could have cut the cost down even more.
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Oct 15, 2013 02:01
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my 06 Rubicon came with no jack or tire iron. Is this normal? I bought it used so it could have been removed.
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Oct 18, 2013 18:38
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JEEVES420 posted:my 06 Rubicon came with no jack or tire iron. Is this normal? I bought it used so it could have been removed. Weird, should be under the carpet/storage area in the back. You can have mine, I can't use it anymore 
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Oct 18, 2013 18:45
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mattfl posted:Weird, should be under the carpet/storage area in the back. You can have mine, I can't use it anymore I had to google its location.. It would be a real pita if you had a lot of stuff in the cargo area..
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Oct 18, 2013 18:46
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Veeb0rg posted:I had to google its location.. It would be a real pita if you had a lot of stuff in the cargo area.. Yup, which is why my HiLift sits on my hood. Which, in owning my Jeep for just over a year I finally got to actually use my HiLift 2 outings ago. Guy in a 2 door got hung up real bad on a big rock right on his drive shaft, couldn't go forward or back without causing damage to it. HiLift to the rescue, lifted up his front bumper and moved the rock outta way!
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Oct 18, 2013 18:53
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Figured this was a good excuse to buy a hi-lift First I have to buy new tires as my spare has like 2in of tread more than my remaining 3.
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Oct 18, 2013 21:07
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I'm on 33s so my bottle jack will still get to the axle, but nothing else without a block of wood or something
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Oct 18, 2013 21:12
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My lift kit came with this  Of course its pointless because I have a hi-lift jack like every other Jeep owner in existence.
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Oct 18, 2013 22:10
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I don't understand how every other Jeep has their Hi-Lift uncovered. I learned the hard way that a Hi-Lift exposed to the elements for awhile without being re-oiled will lock in the upright position and refuse to release. I didn't realize it was just a lubrication issue at the time, so I had to have some people help lift the Jeep off of the jack and kick the jack out. Since then, I've had a cover on mine.
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Oct 19, 2013 01:21
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I use mine quite frequently (on average at least once a week - usually at the junkyard) so it gets the dirt and corrosion worked out of it often and is relubed whenever it starts getting cranky. I have an MJ so there isn't really a good spot to mount it vertically, it just slides around in the bed along one side of the spare tire (strapped down in the middle of the bed) along with my spare rear driveshaft.
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Oct 19, 2013 01:35
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ManicJason posted:I don't understand how every other Jeep has their Hi-Lift uncovered. I learned the hard way that a Hi-Lift exposed to the elements for awhile without being re-oiled will lock in the upright position and refuse to release. I didn't realize it was just a lubrication issue at the time, so I had to have some people help lift the Jeep off of the jack and kick the jack out. I've got the little boot cover on mine that they sell. It started black but now thanks to the Florida sun is a light greyish color lol.
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Oct 19, 2013 14:01
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Audiologic posted:Finally got around to finishing my floor pan, Well, almost finishing at least! Just need to weld along the unibody rails underneath and she's done! You should be proud, because it looks really good. Didn't realise that re-doing the floor could be so inexpensive.
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Oct 19, 2013 14:22
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I just replaced the motor for the e-fan in the 5.9 tonight. She came to me with only High Speed working, no Low, and the special snowflake e-fan that comes with the 5.9 is long out of production and is a bitch to find. After a lot of research, I found a workaround using a Ford fan motor and splicing in a new pigtail to connect it to the Jeep's electricals. I've been putting the swap off for a few months, because I've been afraid of loving it up. A half working fan is better than no working fan, especially in the summer. But she's been puking up coolant more frequently after short trips, and I need this poo poo fixed. I pulled out the fan, tore out the old motor, cut that poo poo up, tried to solder the wires together, cursed because the loving wires are too damned thick to be soldered easily, cleaned my mess up, crimped the wires together, shrank some tubing, taped it up for good measure, ziptied everything down, and threw it the gently caress back into my goddamn jeep. Started up the jeep and jumped the fan connectors with a paper clip to test the fan, as I still don't 100% trust the low sensor yet. Systems check: -High mode? Check. -Low mode?  That loving fan still doesn't work at low speed. Which means I should do what, now? Replace relays? Wiring? Ritual sacrifice? I'm at a loss right now, and kind of pissed.
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Oct 20, 2013 06:30
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99 4.0 5sp 4wd Cherokee I don't have a tachometer but it sounds like its idling over 1000rpm at startup and staying there for a few minutes. The AC/heat are off. No CEL right now but I know my downstream 02 sensor is bad. I know that my eletric fan relay is dying. My fuel pump loses its prime(have to crank it twice) when its low on fuel. Any ideas why its idling so high? vains fucked around with this message at 19:03 on Oct 20, 2013 |
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Oct 20, 2013 19:00
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High idle is usually a vacuum leak. Tadhg I am not sure but I didn't even know they had dual speed fans. Also, sealant lined heatshrink butt splices are actually something I use more often/trust more than soldered connections in an automotive application, and I've been soldering for 18 years. It sounds like you need to spend some time with a multimeter probing out the circuit and figure out what is wrong, might be a relay or something.
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Oct 20, 2013 20:29
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Well, at the moment my fan is single speed until it's fixed. So there's that. But yeah-- it's apparently part of the "Max Cooling Package" that the 5.9 came with. It's a two speed e-fan triggered by sensors in the upper and lower radiator hoses. The sensors themselves are in a metal T fitting in the middle of each of the hoses, and switch on when the coolant reaches "warm enough to warrant the low speed fan" and "hot enough to need high speed fan for a bit." I have no idea if the low speed sensor works or not (I'll jump off that bridge when I come to it,) so I'm just jumping the connections for each sensor to test if the fan works. High speed work on both the old and new fan motor; low speed works on neither. Each of the fan speeds apparently has its own relay, with the Low speed often shorting out. I pulled both relays this morning and tested them. They both have resistors in them, and both read the same resistance in both directions on the control circuit. Power circuits had no continuity when cold. After hooking them up to the battery and ground, both relays clicked, and both had continuity on the power circuits. So, relays seem functional, yes? At least I don't have to buy a new special snowflake four-pronged mopar relay for $80 (Mopar part #4607036 "Relay- Special Purpose.") And, yeah-- the plan now is to pull up wiring diagrams to see what else might go where, and will probably start shoving my multimeter probes into places to see what's not connecting. This goddamn fan system has been maddening, and none of the parts are cheap (or even available anymore.) e: Jumping the low speed switch doesn't trigger the relay, so I think that the wiring before the relay is bad. Just need to figure out where it comes from, where it goes, tear it out, and replace with newer not-lovely wire+connectors. I think. I hope. e2: I should probably see if the switch connector has power coming to it, as well. Tomorrow. Tadhg fucked around with this message at 02:10 on Oct 21, 2013 |
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Oct 20, 2013 22:52
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Audiologic posted:Why not just buy after market control arms and save a ton of hassle? Because an Energy Suspension polyurethane bushing kit with literally every bushing in the suspension, front and rear, is only $120? e: I should note than mine is 2WD, so aftermarket control arms are probably wasted overkill. e2: Caveat: I just realized I don't know if the original question is for XJ, YJ, TJ, etc. Mine is an XJ. Darchangel fucked around with this message at 19:46 on Oct 21, 2013 |
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Oct 21, 2013 19:43
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Success! Had to drive to work today, low fan kicked on at 210 degrees and the gauge never so much as fluttered a millimeter over that, even after getting off the freeway into stop and go city traffic in 80 degree weather. Combination of replacing the fan motor and cleaning/tightening electrical connectors. I still should replace the fifteen year old wiring, but at least I have the luxury of waiting to do the entire engine area at once, rather than a piecemeal process.
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Oct 21, 2013 22:16
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Does anyone have an opinion on whether it's worth rebuilding a trac loc LSD in a rear dana 44? My TJ has 150k on it and I doubt it's ever been rebuilt. It looks like the clutch pack rebuild kit is around $85. I think I'll do a locker at some point, probably selectable, but it won't be for at least a couple of years. I guess the main question is will it make much of a difference if I don't notice it helping much now? Also - how noticeable is a rear locker that is on full-time like a lunchbox locker? Seems like it would be scary if my rear axle is trying to do whatever it wants all the time. That's why I think a selectable in the rear is a better idea than a lock right or something.
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Oct 22, 2013 23:13
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If it's locked all the time you're gonna have a bad time.
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Oct 22, 2013 23:41
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Astonishing Wang posted:
"Lunchbox" lockers are auto lockers - that is they non-selectable but they activate as needed rather than staying locked like a spool locker. Kastein helped me put on in my front D30 and it is very quiet and hardly noticeable EXCEPT when I need traction up front it makes all the difference.
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Oct 23, 2013 04:13
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They behave very differently in the rear diff because you are always using the rear diff when driving. Very, very differently. There's a ton of disagreement on whether it's sane to put one in the rear and what road conditions will make them unmanageable, everything from "I love driving mine in snow with the auto locker" to "you will die if you use it on the road". I suspect with a skilled driver it wouldn't be a problem with a bit of practice. That being said, for a vehicle that's driven on the road frequently I'd probably go with an auto locker front and a selectable rear if I only had cash for one selectable locker. Or an auto locker front and open rear if I only had the cash for a single auto locker. My MJ is autolocker front, LSD rear (not the best but it was essentially free) and my XJ will be LSD rear soon, possibly LSD or autolocker front in the future but I haven't really decided. e: they are very easy to install, I think it took me around 10 minutes once I had the axleshafts pulled.
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Oct 23, 2013 16:09
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I already have the lock-right in the front, which is perfect! I love that it's only on when I'm in 4wd. I think I'll rebuild the LSD and get a selectable locker sometime down the road. I don't want to mess up my jeep and not like driving it any more, which I think is what would happen if I got the lunchbox in the rear.
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Oct 23, 2013 17:11
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